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Shop Organization #3: Flip Top-Planer Cart Part 1. and Screw Thread Question

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Blog entry by gizmodyne posted 01-14-2008 07:33 AM 9866 reads 5 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Going Diagonal/ Making room for the big boy. Part 3 of Shop Organization series Part 4: Flip Top Planer Cart Part 2.. Doh! »

Planer cart
I decided to build a flip top cart for my planer. I looked through several forums, magazines, and plans and decided on a hybrid of the Wood and Woodsmith plans.

My drawings and notes.

I am using plywood left from building the shop. It is a rough luan. A different look for shop stuff.


My first rip with the SawStop. Very cool. Dead accurate. So different from using my little Ridgid.


The top is made of two matching pieces. I cut a dado in the top to house a 1/2” steel bar, the pivot point for the flip top.


The two pieces dry stacked with bar in the center.

The planer cart is a modified box as it has no top rails. I am using two layers of plywod for each side for extra strength. The dadoes to hold the shelf are created by layering the plywood and leaving a gap for the exact width of the shelves.


In this shot you can see the side stacked left to right with a spacer for the bottom shelf, the inner side part one, spacer for top shelf, and the rest of the inner side. I used this set up to fit the pieces. I will glue the “two” sides together.

I actually have fun building with plywood, because things go so quickly. Here is the stack of carcase parts waiting for assembly.

How do I insert screw threads?
I am going to make my own threaded jig knobs for this project. So I bought some 5/16” brass threaded inserts. Some questions: Are these just installed by drilling a hole and screwing them in? Should I add glue?

Thanks.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne



12 comments so far

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2739 days


#1 posted 01-14-2008 07:37 AM

That’s all you do. Some epoxy or thin CA glue wouldn’t hurt.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1765 posts in 2841 days


#2 posted 01-14-2008 07:38 AM

Thanks Gary. I bought an extra or so to give it a go.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2739 days


#3 posted 01-14-2008 08:13 AM

John – If you put them in flush then you can tighten the screw that goes into it as much as you want
since the pressure is being applied to the face of the insert.

If you put it under flush and you tighten the screw too much it will try to pull it out of the wood.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1765 posts in 2841 days


#4 posted 01-14-2008 08:18 AM

Ah. . Thanks for the heads up. Thinking back, most store bought knob inserts are flush. Makes sense.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View Dadoo's profile

Dadoo

1776 posts in 2741 days


#5 posted 01-14-2008 04:20 PM

Gonna look good.

Do us a favor and someday give us your review of your Sawstop. There was a major discussion here some months ago about this saw. Thanx bro!

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1765 posts in 2841 days


#6 posted 01-14-2008 04:22 PM

Dadoo:

I will once I get to know it a little better.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View mrtrim's profile

mrtrim

1696 posts in 2631 days


#7 posted 01-14-2008 10:55 PM

glad to see your doing this gizmo , i saw it in a mag and was going to do one . the more i thought about it more i was concerned about the ply separating where the rod runs thru the plywood plus the vibration of the planer weight sitting mostly on the rod . im real interested in knowing how this works out for you thx good luck

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8791 posts in 2850 days


#8 posted 01-14-2008 11:09 PM

Take a bolt with double nuts tightened on at the proper depth and thread it into the insert. Use a ratchet to drive the whole assembly in the predrilled hole. Then you should be able to back out the bolt and nut assembly. You might try this on scrap first. I did this a few years ago and it worked. It keeps from mucking up the threads or the flat tip driver slots..

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4438 posts in 2713 days


#9 posted 01-15-2008 12:42 AM

beat me to it, Todd

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View gizmodyne's profile

gizmodyne

1765 posts in 2841 days


#10 posted 01-15-2008 01:31 AM

Mr. Trim. I think it will be ok. There are actually 6 support points when the machine is working. It is only during the flip that is should have to do anymore work. Some plans do three ply layers- so that is an option. I figure the top, can be replaced as long as the whole works does not come tumbling down. (Foreshadowing?)

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

View mrtrim's profile

mrtrim

1696 posts in 2631 days


#11 posted 01-15-2008 01:37 AM

thanks gizmo , i may do one yet , i really like the idea great space saver

View cajunpen's profile

cajunpen

14430 posts in 2817 days


#12 posted 01-21-2008 10:08 PM

I guess I should have read Post #1 before #3 – it would have saved a lot of questions. GREAT idea.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

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