Cabinet Progress #15: Slow Progress

Love the post. Love the bandsaw!

What are you scribing to?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Nice stand for outfield. Where did you pick it up. (excuse me, Where did you get her!) Sorry.

Nice helper.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

The safest way to get a good scribe is to use something like 1/4” hardboard and scribe and cut that. Test fit and adjust as necessary. MDF hardboard works good because it is consistent.

This makes a pattern that you can transfer to your finished piece of wood. This works good for complex scribing and reduces the risk of screwing up the materials, especially limited in quantity. For simple scribing, I just stick the board or trim against the surface to be scribed, lay the pencil on its side and make the mark.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Thanks Todd. Good advice on the scribing. I am scribing up against tile (a bullnose cap) You can see the mortar bed. So I will be covering the plywood and mortar bed.

I am not sure how far to overlap the cabinet face frame. I do not want the board to shrink and reveal anything ugly.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

i like your bandsaw outfeed—- out the door.

I’m going to plead ignorance on the scribe thing. I’m assuming you are marking a line to match the contour of what you are applying trim to. I hope you take pictures of the process.

-- You can't get a hug from Facebook.

Karson. Yes. Best helper ever.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

I am not entirely clear of the order of your trim board and face frame. Is the scribed board to be scribed on its’ edge to go against the tile? Or are you trying to carve out the back of the board to lay flat over the squished out mortar?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Todd. RE: the bandsaw.

It has been a great tool. 1 1/2 hp and 10” resaw capacity. This capacity is decent. I have not needed to go over that yet. I keep a 1/2” blade on the saw.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

The mortar is completely flat. I am scribing the top edge of the board.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

Can the scribed board be the top rail of the face frame? I am zooming in on the image but I am viewing it on a 13” laptop, and the picture gets dark and vague for me at the bottom.

I would definitely go with creating the pattern with a disposable scribing strip out of hardboard to be safe. I always have some of this material in the shop because it is inexpensive and is very versatile in making templates, jigs, and patterns.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

The scribed board will go between the existing top rail and the tile.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

I don’t think that you will have to worry about it shrinking and exposing much. Your trim is not that wide and the shrinkage will be negligible. Will a 1/4” overlap be too much and encroach into anything else like the doors?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Also how thick is it to be?

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

1/4” thick. 2 3/4” max width.

There is a skinny 1” rail at the top. I thought about just an 1/8 overlay.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

An 1/8” overlay would be what I would shoot for. 1/4” would allow extra security for exessive deviations in construction. I don’t know how bad the situation is in your house, I know how bad it can be. I had in mind that it would be 1/4” thick as you are doing. I must be envisioning your plan accurately. These are long distance recommendations.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Thanks for all of the advice Todd.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

Looks like you are on the right path giz, I like the way you overcome the limits that a small shop put on us (I know the feeling). Good luck with your project.

-- Bill - "Suit yourself and let the rest be pleased." http://www.cajunpen.com/

Well I built it to be this size. So I have to complain to myself.

I learned at class that 80% of my time is spent at the workbench anyway. So I buy nice castors and roll things around. I have not quite gotten the layout perfect, but it’s getting there.

I really need to build a planer cart. My new layout is the best so far. I have the workbench at the door side. I can get buy, but can open the door if needed. This has freed up more wall space along the old workbench wall.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

Can I borrow your out feed support? It looks like it works very well.

-- Thos. Angle

Not for loan. Sorry.

-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne