In the upcoming part of this series I will blog how to make base kitchen cabinets. I learned to make cabinets in a class and think that they are well within the range of any intermediate woodworker. This project will be a mix of traditional and modern materials/ techniques. In this project I will be making faceframe cabinets with traditional surface mounted hinges, plywood boxes, and modern drawer slides.
If you are interested in building your own cabinets I think it will be a useful project for you to follow along.
If you have been following this blog or the one on the other cabinets , you know that we have an empty corner waiting for cabinets.
Project Description
Here is a picture of the corner:
You can see a faint outline or “scar” on the floor where cabinets had been removed by the prior owner.
Design Specifications
Here is the design for the new cabinet. 
Bungalow Style Corner Cabinet
This assembly is made of two cabinets butted into a corner. Standard cabinets are a net 24” deep, but these are custom sized at 16 3/4” to match the original scars on the floor.
The corner is going to become dead space. I weighed the options, but it is not worth the hassle of trying to reclaim the space.
Materials:
Cases Vertical Grain Doug Fir Plywood with solid end panels
Recycled Douglas Fir Face Frames stained Mahogany with Shelac and Poly Finish
Douglas Fir Counter Top with Poly Finish.
Recycled Fir Drawers with ply bottoms Natural / Poly Finish
Brass Hardware: Bin Pulls and Butterfly Hinges
Cut Lists
I try to plan out most of the project before heading out to the shop.
I drew up the face frames and cabinets in SketchUp with the dimensions indicated. 
Then I imported them into EXCEL where I calculated the part sizes.
Plan of Procedure
Here is a rough list of the steps that I will take to make the cabinets. The face frames are made first so that I can custom fit them to the space even though my measurements should be dead on. Then I build the cabinets to match the frames.
1. Make Face Frames: Mill Stock, Cut Parts, Cut Pocket Holes, Finish Glue and Screw, Finish
2. Make Cases to match Face Frames: Cut Parts, Domino or Biscuit, Cut Grooves For Backs, Size Backs, Cut Pocket Holes for securing TopsPre- Finish and Assemble
3. Make Doors: Mill Bead Board, Mill Bread Boards, Mill Z’ Braces: Domino, Assemble, Fit, Finish
4. Make Drawer Faces: 1/4 Smaller than openings.
5. Make Drawer Boxes, (14” Deep x 1” Smaller than Drawer Faces): Mill Parts, Dovetail Fronts, Groove Bottoms and Sides, Fit Backs and Bottoms. Finish and Assemble.
6. Make Cutting Board: 1/2” Maple with Fir Handle:
7.Attach Face Frames
8: Install Drawers, Doors, Cutting Boards
9. Install Cabinets.
10: Make and Install Countertop
11: Make and Install Shoe Moulding
Next Time
I start knocking down the tasks. Maybe a run out for more plywood. Wish me luck. Comments, questions, and critique welcome.
My one decision that I need some feedback on is: What finish to use for the wood countertops? I will not be cutting on them.
-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne

















6 comments so far
Scott Bryan
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27262 posts in 1989 days
#1 posted 1239 days ago
This is going to be an interesting series, Giz. The only comment I would have is that when I do cabinetry I find it easier to fit the face frame to the cabinet rather than fitting the cabinet to the face frame.
I wanted to do this last year when we remodeled our kitchen but I was “decommissioned” despite having a 50% stake in the partnership (or at least I thought so) because my wife felt she would be “dead and in her grave by the time the cabinets would be finished”. :)
As far as the counter top goes, if it is not a butcher block top, I would put polyurethane on it. Poly can be a challenge to repair but it is inert to both water and chemicals. If you are going to put in a butcher block counter top then I would treat it as a cutting board.
-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine
a1Jim
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86997 posts in 1744 days
#2 posted 1239 days ago
Should be interesting blog I see something right away I find unique “starting with the face frame” .
Looks like a good organized list of the process.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
Beginningwoodworker
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13225 posts in 1840 days
#3 posted 1239 days ago
This is going to be a interesting blog.
-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker
dlmckirdy
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192 posts in 1300 days
#4 posted 1237 days ago
I think that I would increase the depth of the cabinets to include a 3” or 4” toe kick. That will increase both the storage and counter area by nearly 25%, while keeping the footprint of the base on the same lines as original. If you leave the toe kick off, working at the counter will forever be a pain in the back.
-- Doug, Bakersfield, CA - I measured twice, cut it twice, and it is still too short!
gizmodyne
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1762 posts in 2257 days
#5 posted 1237 days ago
Hi,
Thanks for the comments.
We did not include the toe kick to stay traditional to the original design/ style of our house and the era. I built the other cabinets the same and it is not that bad to work at. I may put a bit more overhang on the countertop to partially compensate.
-- -John "Do I have to keep typing a smiley? Just assume it's a joke." www.flickr.com/photos/gizmodyne
Fireball
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64 posts in 2234 days
#6 posted 1233 days ago
Looking forward to following along as this progresses!
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