I promise not to start posting every log I resaw (lest my blog becoming nothing but!), but I think folks interested in resawing, or copying the jig I just made might like to see some more samples.
First, I forgot I got some shots of this (before giving it away as a gift to a coworker girl who wants to paint on it like a canvas), but here’s some of that first log of Ficus microcarpa, resawn to veneer-like thinness:
It’s about 1/16”-3/32” thick on one end, tapering to nothing on the other, as the blade went out the side of the log. This was the fault of the log not being straight in the jig. As I would learn later, I’m not currently (yet) experiencing drift with the new Timberwolf blade. This piece gives me some ideas… lamp shades and whatnot.
Until I get the accurate measurement guide things in place (still designing that a bit), I just laid some masking tape across the jig, under the fence base, pushed it flush with the side of the jig, which had been 0-clearance cut by the band saw itself, marked the other edge – opposite the blade – at that point as 0, removed the fence, and then measured out 9 more inches worth of lines:
First up was some Victorian Box, AKA Australian Cheesewood (Pittosporum undulatum), a strongly, and pungently fragrant wood (almost like Italian herbs and seasonings) from this haul (at that point unidentified), and sealed here (at that point misidentified as California Bay Laurel). This is also the only wood so far that ‘affects’ me. If I breathe in the dust, my lungs get all swollen, and I wheeze for 2 hours, and then breathe funny for the rest of the night. This is the only wood that causes me tangible, immediate problems so far. Always wear your dust masks when making lots of dust!
These were subtly pretty inside, and almost immediately started taking on a green hue:
Cuts like this give me ideas for small, eccentric cabinets with truly natural doors:
Next up – and my last tests for the night – was a piece of that Eucalyptus detailed previously in parts one, two, and three. I learned already several little techniques, like slabbing one end to flatten it, then flipping it around for a much stronger hold that will keep each new slab’s faces parallel, even as the piece is lowered when the supporting middle has been removed, and clamping around the blade (switching mid-push) to cut small pieces, or pieces I don’t want screw holes in.
I was getting really parallel pieces, like this one, 1/8” across the entire piece, both sides. Not bad!
So apparently I can consider things like veneers, as long as I don’t mind sanding them heavily to remove the tool marks. Make ‘em thick enough and it’ll work out. I even managed a paper-thin piece, so it’s not out of the question. This wood was pretty inside, and the same wood from which I made the cup seen in most of this post.
Seeing the logs turned into thin sheets like this makes my mind roll over and over with ideas, outside of things like turnings, which I’ve already been thinking about plenty.
It’s an exciting future!
-- Gary, Los Angeles, video game animator