The edge-band/rim glue-up dried well, but it was about an hour of work to chisel, scrape, and sand away the glue squeeze out, especially where I couldn’t get to it under the strap clamp while it was drying. I cut the rim/edging myself from the same maple to a 3/16” thick strip, though finish sanding has brought it down a bit. I’m leaving it a little rough for a more matte/utility finish, though I see areas that need some finish cleanup, and I want to ‘break the edge’ a bit around the square top to make it a little less susceptible to obvious dings and chips. Now I need to worry about finishes. I’m part of that large group of new woodworkers who don’t know much at all about them.
I did a test tonight on a scrap piece of the same maple using teak oil. I know it’s more for hardwood like teak and mahogany, but it looked really nice, and I think matches the cabinets well enough in the space where it’s going. It should dry overnight, but I’m wondering a few things:
1) should I go with several coats, and if so, what kind of sanding steps in between, if any?
2) I want more than teak oil to protect this. The can mentions a top coat of polyurethane. Should this be oil based, or can it be water based (I have some of that from Minwax). Any gotchas here?
3) what about shellac? I have some Zinsser Bulls Eye in clear, and am thinking maybe that would be better for the high-traffic kitchen at work. It’s only a matter of time before someome spills scalding coffee on it. Thoughts? Is shellac okay over teak oil? Is the teak oil even necessary with shellac? I’m thinking ‘yes,’ but what do I know? (A: little :) Mostly, I just want to hurry up and be done. It’s already a 3-day project, which should be more like 1, and it’s very low-profit, and meant for a high-use location that isn’t going to highlight how it looks anyway. I’m trying to go with what I have on hand, if it’ll work alright.
-- Gary, Los Angeles, video game animator