....furthering my ganders, as one would take on examining their progress in the principles of what it take to work the wood by hand! Some-times it does my soul best to just stop and take an inventory of what is happening here with the tools and the wood. Many are the stages of phases that go into the making of a piece of ‘wood art’....design, working the wood by hand, but there all-ways is the need to pay attention to the care and detail of my tools and wood.
Further Notes on:
Prepping the wood for entry into The Multi-Purposed 2×4.
1.) ....I have finished hand sawing, (ripping) one side of a white oak board and….
2.) ....stopping to take a look at my pull saw….
3.) ....drawing out the lines for the rip cut on the other side of the wood….
4.) ....placing a notch into the end of the wood, for as to get an accurite cut start….
I have taken the time again on this side of the white oak, to first of all draw out my lines into//on top of the board and having finished that, I next move on to examining my saw. One note that I will pass on here about the Japanese pull saw is that this saw cuts on the pull stroke, unlike the saws of the western tradition that cut on the push stroke. An explanation that I have heard on this by John Reed Fox is that ” the zen explanation is given that if you push a blade of grass between your fingers of course it buckles, but if you pull it, it becomes straight by itself.” What makes the Japanese pull saw so unique and fit for sawing such as I am doing here in the white oak, is the ease of which the straightness of the cut can be made and maintained for the length of the cut.
....before I started hand sawing on the previous side, I noticed some teeth that were missing and broken off, as one will see in this picture. Most of the breakage that occurs in the teeth will be the result of too aggressive sawing, ( not understanding that the saw does all the work, no-pressure is needed and that the hand is there only to pull the saw and the saw walls will keep the saw straight for the cut) or finding buried steel, ( nails) in the wood, such as happened here….
....in this next photo you will see how I will notch the end of the board so as to get an accurate cut from the start. Just an old turning chiesel which I use for paring a v-notch into the wood….
....and one more photo. I can not say enough about getting off to a right cut start at this point, as this will insure a proper tracking of the blade for the length of your cut. Once one understands the pull saw and the ease of how it cuts, that same individual will often wonder why it took so long to come around to this way of working the wood….
....here I have finished my first cut into the wood. Notice how at the top of the board, the saw line seems to be straying a bit to the left….I will correct this by turning the board over and micro-sliver sawing again, which will get me back on track. To pay attention to these small details now, makes the rest of that 9’ long stretch a work of ease….like slicing butter….
Well there you have it….and yes I’m trying to get this one ready and dimensioned out as a 2×4x8, (2’‘x4’‘x8’) so as to start moving with my design for ‘wood art’.
I wish all a very good new year….as I’m heading outside soon, since we have all-ready started snowing once again up here….
”....work smart, work safe, and live, to work the wood….”
-- --frank, NH, http://rusticwoodart.tumblr.com/