Router Table by Julie

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Blog series by ~Julie~ updated 03-21-2014 05:40 PM 7 parts 12956 reads 49 comments total

Part 1: deciding what I want and don't want on the new table

02-10-2011 08:57 PM by ~Julie~ | 9 comments »

I need a new router table. I had made my first one but realized it was not the strongest design and needed a lot of improvements and additions. It was a basic four legged table with aprons and a small crosspiece between the legs near the bottom. I don’t have a photo because I’ve already taken it apart. The old table had aprons that fit with tenons into the four legs’ mortises. Because of the amount of stress the table received from being dragged around the shop (no ca...

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Part 2: making the top

02-14-2011 06:40 PM by ~Julie~ | 5 comments »

As I said earlier I have the yellow Oak-Park router top. Here’s a photo of it: (Since the opening for the router is offset (not in the middle) I am going to have my router sit on the right and have doors and drawers on the left. I think a problem with the “Norm” type router table is that putting the router in the middle leaves a narrow space on each side for holding router accessories. We’ll get to that in a future post.) I need a solid frame around my yel...

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Part 3: starting the base

02-16-2011 07:59 PM by ~Julie~ | 4 comments »

I’m designing my router table so that it fits with my router and accessories. My Hitachi router will hang upside down on the right hand side. It will need clearance around it for my access to raise and lower it and also for bit changes which I usually do by popping out the whole base and sitting the router on the top of the table. I also have a small laminate trimmer type router that I usually have attached to a large 12” x 18” plexi base. I use it mostly for routering...

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Part 4: making the sides and back

02-18-2011 04:57 PM by ~Julie~ | 2 comments »

The sides and back of my router table will be pine, 2” wide stiles and rails with plywood panel inserts. I had quite a bit of left over 3/4” thick, 2”- 2 1/2” wide pine strips of varying lengths from other projects and used that.Since I didn’t take photos, I’m borrowing ones from my earlier post about making my shop cupboards, which have exactly the same style: the center rails have grooves on both the top and bottom to hold the panels: and ...

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Part 5: the doors and drawers

03-01-2011 08:49 PM by ~Julie~ | 10 comments »

It’s time to add the doors to my router table. They are made with pine, with 1/4” thick plywood panels, the same as the sides. I run a groove down the middle of the stiles and rails for the panels to fit into, which also allow the tenons of the rails to fit into the stiles: The door in front of the router will have a plexiglass panel, so the groove needs to be thinner for the plexi than for the tenons. So, I put a narrower groove using the table saw, to hold the plexi and th...

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Part 6: Adding the ON/OFF switch ... finally

03-17-2014 09:27 PM by ~Julie~ | 10 comments »

I cannot believe it has been 1111 days since I posted about my router table. And I never finished it until recently, a bad habit of mine. I had the drawer fronts ready to go, but had to make some drawers. I just never put the drawers together and I was using it without them, I’ll show those in the next post. The switch I’ve had installed for a few years, so I’ll show that now. This is where I left off all those days ago: I had asked about ON/OFF switches and someone...

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Part 7: Completing the Drawers

03-21-2014 05:40 PM by ~Julie~ | 9 comments »

After getting the switch installed in the top “drawer” area, I needed then to make two drawers below that, on the left hand side. I had two drawers that were part of an old entertainment unit that we threw out. I kept some parts including two drawers as well as drawer slides. The drawers were too wide for my router table: So, I taped the drawer slides into the cabinet and measured the width I would need for my drawers to fit: Then I cut the drawer, allowing for the side ...

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