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Workshop Build #28: Trimming the workshop windows part 2

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Blog entry by ~Julie~ posted 876 days ago 2399 reads 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 27: Trimming the workshop windows Part 28 of Workshop Build series no next part

The jambs are attached first, this shows the bottom sill and the side jamb:

When the jambs are nailed in, they have to have shims put in between them and the framing, to keep everything level and perpendicular. I also had to add some insulation in the space.

Next I put on the 3 1/4” wide side casings, all are 1/2” thick. Note that casings sit back from the jambs about 1/8” – 1/4”, something I didn’t know until I researched how to trim windows.

Here you can see how the side casing sits on the bottom sill:

For the top frame piece I glued a 1” wide piece of pine perpendicular to the top piece:

The top piece lines up with the outer edges of the side casings and gives a trim style that is different from the usual mitred corners.

The final piece is the bottom apron that sits below the sill and also lines up with the outer edges of the side casings.

The finished window:

Now I just need to make doors for two openings!

... to be continued…

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca



5 comments so far

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jm8

64 posts in 910 days


#1 posted 875 days ago

Looks great!

-- Joe from Western Ma.... Peace to all

View patron's profile (online now)

patron

12956 posts in 1939 days


#2 posted 875 days ago

coming out nice julie

after many like the ones you are making
and shimming and twisting boards one by one into level and square
i came up with making them on the workbench
i measure accurately and make my dimensions 1/16” to 1/8” smaller
from the rough opening to the outside dimension of the casing
and cut all parts and assemble square and even
and finishing them first

i can make four in the time it takes to do one piece by piece
and nail and glue and clamp them together first
and they are all square and plumb
like for the doors or shutters you need to make

all the insulation and caulking is done first
to the window and rough opening

then just slide them in and finish nail them to the sides
i can drive the nails through
with a slim straight punch
and remove them later if needed

i do my face trim simple too
the tops and bottoms are 3/4”
and the sides 5/8” all rounder where needed with a 1/8th round over bit
so there is no ‘v’ gap to mess with

but any stile would work this way
and are much easier to finish first
even spraying works just fine outside

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View ~Julie~'s profile

~Julie~

572 posts in 1632 days


#3 posted 875 days ago

David, I did premake the jamb frame for my first window in the front finishing room. That window did not have the same grooves as these three I just did. I don’t believe your window has the grooves for the jambs to fit into. You have to be extremely precise when you have the grooves PLUS I had the bottom ledge which came out past the wall and had the fingers extended. I found for those reasons it was better to do my trimming the way I did. I do agree, for a window without the grooves, or where you don’t want to use them, your way works best.

-- ~Julie~ followyourheartwoodworking.blogspot.ca

View patron's profile (online now)

patron

12956 posts in 1939 days


#4 posted 875 days ago

that’s the problem with construction renovation
many things are not constant
lot’s of fiddling at times
it keeps one on their toes

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Rob Drown's profile

Rob Drown

712 posts in 2431 days


#5 posted 855 days ago

Wow beautiful!!! Wish my garage shop had windows.

-- The expectations of life depend upon diligence; the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools. Confucius, 经过艰苦的努力的梦想可以成真

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