The first job this morning was to sand the hull. After that I used a rag to wet the whole thing to raise the ‘fuzzies’, so I could sand them off also. In some places the grain really raised up.
When I got all the wetting done and it dried, I sanded with 120 grit.
Now to fix “the bump”. Somewhere along the line I ended up with a high spot on one end. It’s not too bad, but I have to fix it or it will drive me crazy. Here it is, just above the pencil.
It took more to remove it than I thought it would, but it looks better.
I also ended up taking off a lot of wood here too.
It seems like a long way into this project to be removing that much material, but it’s now or never. After the cloth goes on it’s a major thing to do anything like that.
After putting on the sealer coat you can put a strip of cloth on the ends for more reinforcement. I got the cloth cut and ready to use. About 3’ wide and around 3’ long will do the trick.
Here are the jugs of resin and hardener I use. I got the liquid and the cloth from Raka.
I won’t need it for a couple of days but here is the cloth. This first piece is for the extra layer on the bottom. It’s 6 oz. cloth, 40” wide and 5 yards long.
This second piece is to cover the entire outside, and the inside too. It’s also 6 oz. and it’s 60” wide and 12 yards long.
Back to the sealer coat. I use a foam roller pad.
I didn’t have to whine too much for the wife to volunteer to help. I like a short roller so I cut the pad in half and used the small roller frame. With two rollers it doesn’t take long.
The pumps put out 1 ounce per pump. This epoxy system calls for two resin to one hardener. The first batch I did 10 and 5, for a total of 15 ounces.
This stuff dries clear. I put in a little cedar sawdust to give it a nice brown tint.
The idea is to roll it on really thick so it will fill any holes that remain, like the staple holes. Once it’s on, you let it set and soak for a minute or two. Then you want use a squeegee to move it around to be sure the gaps are all filled. Then you want to squeegee off all you can. You can put the extra into a dish of some sort and you can use later. As long as it’s soft enough to spread, it’s OK to use it.
This next pic is some of the material that has been scraped off and used on another part of the canoe. It looks like it’s setting up, it is a little, but not too bad. It mostly looks like this because it has a lot of air bubbles in it.
After scraping off the heft of it, you need to go back and scrape again. The plan is to make sure there is no extra mix on the surface of the wood. All you are doing here is sealing the wood pores so the wood won’t suck the epoxy out of the cloth. When you scrape the second time the epoxy is usually not usable so you don’t need to save it. I use a frozen juice can to scrape it into. Cut a slit in the side about an inch or so long, when you pull the squeegee through, it cleans it off really well.
So, here is what it looks like now.
Too bad, the next job is to sand the daylights out of it. See you next time.
I almost forgot to tell you. I forgot to put the strips of cloth on the ends, I will do it after I sand the hull tomorrow.
-- Jeff in central Me.