Time to fair the hull and make it look like something. Before I start I have to finish the repair from last time. I just used a chisel to clip it off and a sanding block to shape it a little. Don’t have to be too fussy because I’m fairing the whole hull so I will make it look better then.
I grabbed a couple of block planes. I guess I’ll stick with the low angle one. Hopefully less tearout with that one.
I closed the mouth up fairly tight, that should help also.
Here are a couple of examples of spots that need to be taken down.
I also like to use a chisel to knock off any glue, that should help keep the plane sharp a little longer.
The hardest thing about planing a canoe hull is the strips going in different directions, you never know when the grain is going to change from one strip to another.
If I have too much trouble in a certain area, I’ll use a card scraper.
To me it is a good sign when you don’t get long shavings, just small stuff in the plane, I see that as a spot that doesn’t need much work.
If I’m not sure about a certain spot I will use a pencil. I just rock it back and forth, that will tell you if you have any flat spots.
I have the whole setup on wheels because my space is limited and it helps to roll it around to get at different areas. The problem with that is when using the plane it wants to roll away from you. I used scrap pieces of strips to make two of these.
They work really well. I think if you push hard enough it would tip over before it would roll over the strips.
In the next picture, the area to the left of the plane is done, the right is not. I’m not sure you can even see the difference.
In the next one, the area to the left of the picture is done, the right not. You can also see that I already got a nick in the plane iron. I just sharpened all the tools before I started the canoe so I must have hit some glue.
I’m not much of a photographer, but I think fairness of hull is not easily captured on film.
So, I’m done planing and scraping. It’s time for the fairing board. I call it the torture tool. It’s made from 1/4” plywood. Two pieces of dowel. I used a piece of plastic cutting board my wife was done with. It keeps the thin plywood from breaking. I used a piece of old sanding belt that I had given to me that didn’t fit any of my tools. It is 16” long and just under 3” wide. I think it’s 40 grit.
Here is what we have after about an hour of the fairing board. I think you can see some improvement.
Time for the random orbit sander. Paper is 60 grit.
The sander is way more fun than the fairing board, but it has it’s drawbacks. You need ear plugs. The cedar is thin and the canoe is hollow. This makes for a lot of noise. Also, the lower edges of the canoe sometimes come away from the stations because there are no more staples holding it there, so you get a lot of vibration. That makes even more noise. There is also a lot, LOT, of dust. This brand of sander doesn’t seem to catch much of the dust in the dust bag. Dust mask time. I like to roll it outside for this part of the job, however, there is this situation…....
Guess I’ll stay in here next to the wood stove.
When you do empty the dust bag, save the sawdust. You will want some of it later.
So, I’m not sure how long I sanded but my wife came out and told me I was going to miss supper. That is unacceptable. I wrapped it up, vacuumed it off and this is what we have now.
So that is where we stand now. I hope you can see that the hull is looking pretty good. It looks fair to me, and it feels fair, so I think that it’s where it needs to be. I have a few things to do tomorrow morning, but I may be able to get in the shop later in the day. If I do I will update tomorrow night.
Here’s the tally this far, I think I made a mistake on my math in an earlier blog entry.
Cedar – $90.00
Router bits – $30.00
1 gal. poly – $46.00
3 boxes staples – $10.00
2 rolls tape – $8.00
10 chip brushes – $8.00
seat cane – $25.00
sanding discs, 60 grit, 50 pack – $20.00
Total – $237.00
See you next time.
-- Jeff in central Me.