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Ridgid R4511 Vibration

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Blog entry by falegniam posted 04-26-2010 03:47 PM 2850 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Hello,
About a week ago I purchased this great Ridgid R4511 Tablesaw. It’s an unbelievable upgrade from my 20+ Sears 10” tablesaw. It’s all set up, and squared off. I purchased a piece of phenolic so i can make zero clearance inserts. I have searched for high density plastic faces for the rip fence, but have been unsuccessful, so i will order a piece of high density polyethylene from usplastic.com. One problem I’d like to resolve is the vibration during speed down of the motor and blade. My thoughts are the the long storage of the V-Belt that the saw comes with is the cause of the vibration. All V-Belt or Drive Belts come in an oval configuration when they are packed, and they stay this way for a long time. I’m thinking that the two short loops at the ends of the v-belt pass over the pulleys are causing the vibration during the speed down after the switch is pushed in the off position. I would appreciate positive feedback on this subject if anyone has experienced vibration in this way? This tablesaw if new to me, so if anyone could alert me to any concerns they have has with this, that would also be great.
Thank You

-- If you work you eat - If you don't work, you eat, drink, and sleep.



8 comments so far

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3965 posts in 2632 days


#1 posted 04-26-2010 04:26 PM

Many pulley driven machines benefit from using a link belt instead of the standard V-belt. I am not familiar with your saw at all, but others will probably make this suggestion as well. The link belt doesn’t have a memory. If it is useful, you will find others that have put it on their saw. I have link belt on my old contractor’s saw and it made a considerable difference.

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Woodcanuck's profile

Woodcanuck

128 posts in 2468 days


#2 posted 04-26-2010 04:58 PM

I just picked one of these up a couple of weeks ago as well. I haven’t played with it too much, but I do know what you mean about the vibration when it’s slowing down. I get the same little shudder just before it comes to a stop.

I can’t offer much of an explanation, but I’ll definitely be watching this thread to see what other people have to say. Thanks for posting the

-- Ian - Life's a game, if you don't play, you can't win.

View flyfisherbob2000's profile

flyfisherbob2000

81 posts in 2455 days


#3 posted 04-26-2010 05:08 PM

I bought the same Ridgid saw, and was prepared to change the belt to link belt as I had read in many reviews of the saw. My saw out of the box operated extremely smooth, so I never did buy the aftermarket belt. But, I have read in many different forums that using the link belt makes operation of most all equipment very smooth.

View BigG's profile

BigG

56 posts in 2537 days


#4 posted 04-26-2010 06:08 PM

There are many threads on this subject on the Ridgid forum. New belts help a little but this is inherant to this motor’s electrical system. Doesn’t hurt a thing since it’s only on shut-down.

-- Big G

View marcb's profile

marcb

768 posts in 3141 days


#5 posted 04-26-2010 08:43 PM

I’m going to make 2 blind guesses without seeing the manual.

1 – the switch switches both lines and the motor is wired 120V
2 – there is no bleed resistor wired across the capacitor

View Chelios's profile

Chelios

568 posts in 2533 days


#6 posted 04-27-2010 01:44 AM

marcb

How would one fix that?

View marcb's profile

marcb

768 posts in 3141 days


#7 posted 04-27-2010 08:15 PM

The simplest solution would be to wire the switch so it only switched the hot lead. The neutral would be connected back together. This gives the regenerated juice someplace to go. This is a 120V setup. Not 100% effective depending on how fast it regenerates.

Whats happening is that the cap is filling up due to the motor turning and generating electricity. The motor speed slows and the centrifugal switch closes giving the cap someplace to dump energy. If both legs are switched that energy becomes a brake, gets burned off, the cap fills back up and repeat. A bleed resistor helps eat the energy up as the motor spins down.

I can’t remember off hand how to calculate bleed resistor sizes but I would think that a 2 watt 220Ohm resistor would stand up over time. Being wrong just burns out the resitor. If theres room in the metal bump for the capacitor you can just wire it to the 2 leads of the cap. Becareful to not let anything touch metal.

View Yeorwned's profile

Yeorwned

55 posts in 2009 days


#8 posted 12-28-2011 06:45 AM

My R4511 started doing the shutter/vibrations when I started to use zero clearance inserts. If I use the included insert instead, the saw runs fine and never vibrates. It actually shutters when using a sled as well, which acts as the zero clearance. I haven’t done much yet to figure out why besides theories.

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