2×2 (legs)
1×2 (pine) for the frame and panel construction
4×8x3/4 plywood ( used basic sanded pine since it was going to be painted
2×4x1/4" plywood ( for the drawer panels and cabinets door panels
2×4 ( for the counter top)
Casters
Drawer slides ( used basic euro style slides)
Here you see the 2×2 legs with the 1×2 stretchers attached … I used pocket hole joinery to attach everything
Here you see the plywood panels attached to the frame, nothing fancy here basically screwed the panels to the frame and countersucked the holes and plug them with wood dowels
Here is the back panel basically the same construction method except for a couple of things
1. dimensions of the panel are wider
2. There is no keg assembly on this panel as I will be using pocket screws to attach it together to the side panels
Here you see all the pocket holes placed so I can just screw the back panel into the thecleft and right sides
These 2 pictures just show me doing a test run on clamping up everything and squaring the mating pieces.. I made a couple of right angle clamps with holes in them and they kept everything nice and square
In this picture I placed the front stretcher for a couple of reason I want to keep the front square to the back and the stretcher defines the 2 drawers that I will be putting in later on.
I receded the stretcher so that it was flush with front frame so I used my chisels to achieve that
A closer look at the front recessed stretcher.. I held this in with glue
I'm not sure where I put all the construction pics of the base but it's as follows
Plywood panel with a pine edge band , I used biscuit to joint the panel to the pine 1×2.. and then added more pocket holes to the ends of the 1×2 … then I just secured the base to the side and back assembly's
Here is a close up pic of the base ( sorry about that)
Here you can see that I placed a dado about 12" up from the bottom and also placed another stopped dado on the other side so as that the shelf can slide right as you can see in the pic below .. I added glue and actually placed a couple of pocket holes on the bottom side of the shelf so I could add a mechanical fastener to add some more rigidity ( never did that before but it worked really well
The customer wants to have a wine rack on this shelf so I made a portable one
Here is a little video I made to show the customer what I have done to this point.. I'm not a pro at making video but this was just an informal video that I made to show some of the progress and a general direction of where the project is heading
Anytime in the past when I have included drawers in a project I usually have internal structures inplace to just screw drawer slides onto but on this occasion I was building 2,drawers with no dividing wall to screw into .. so after researching this I found these face frame sockets .. you just attach them to the back of the cabinet and slide the drawer slides into them.. problem solved
DRAWER CONSTRUCTION
I made the drawers out some 1×12 pine I had lying around and tried something new as far as joinery was concerned .. I used a locking rabbit joint and glue.. the rest of the drawer assembly was standard in that I placed a dado 1/2" up from the bottom to receive the 1/4" plywood base
Here you can see the locking rabbit I almost wish I used contrasting woods to highlight the joint more.. it looks awesome and is extremely strong
Here they are installed in the unit.. thus is before I made the false fronts
So here is the final look of the drawers, I used a ogee router bit to give a nice profile to the drawer front and added a drawer knob
I really love shaker style doors.. in fact any kind of joint that doesn't need mechanical fasteners are my favourite but obviously are always appropriate
For tips of you that don't know how to make them here is a link
To be honest I planned on just buying a towel rack but couldn't find one that really fit what I was looking for so here I go again " a project within a project"
I used some of the 2×2 I had leftover from the legs.. then I used my palm router to to chamfer both ends of the 6" piece
Next I drill a 1" hole so I could slide my 18" dowel through .. and then I needed to drill another hole in the actual 1" dowel so as that I could add a 3/8" dowel that way the towel rail dowel couldn't slide out of the assembly
All that was left was to Predrill holes in the front of the brackets and then countersunk the holes , screw them to the unit and then use wood caps to cover the screws
The idea is to apply pressure accross the end grain of the panel using cauls so I put 2 cauls under the end grain and 2 over the end grain thus keeping the panel from bowing and he also showed a neat trick in cutting pvc pipe and laying the panel on them and placing each piece of pvc pipe under each individual joint line where glue squeezes out and I got to say it worked a charm, it also stops the pipe from staining your panel I'll see tomorrow how the panel is and hopefully won't have to level it too much
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