LumberJocks

glueing

  • Advertise with us
Blog entry by Andy posted 02-21-2008 02:08 AM 543 reads 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I am new to woodworking I have built a small shop in my backyard. Its not finished yet but I decided to start a project. I am building a coffie table out of birch which I milled 3 years ago, and it has been dry piled in a building since.
I glued the top togeather when I dry fitted it all seams were tight. When the glue dryed I had a couple of glue lines with gaps. I tried to fill with sawdust and glue but that just gave me glue stains to sand out.
What can I fill this with. any ideas.



7 comments so far

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 2655 days


#1 posted 02-21-2008 02:16 AM

Glue and sawdust will also effect and show up in your finish also.

There are a few things you can do.

1. Cut it again and re-glue it. This would leave you a nice clean joint.
2. Make patches for the gaps.
3. ??

I’m sure other will have some ideas.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View mike02719's profile

mike02719

25 posts in 2452 days


#2 posted 02-21-2008 02:31 AM

GaryK has the right idea. Some reasons for the problem may be; 1. You may have not used enough clamps. 2. The clamps might have been too tight.

Try again, Good Luck

-- Mike, Massachusetts

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2488 days


#3 posted 02-21-2008 02:40 AM

Another thing to try is use some fine sawdust and hide glue to make a paste. The hide glue will accept stain whereas wood glue doesn’t.

Other than that I agree with Gary’s comments.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View skozub's profile

skozub

59 posts in 2425 days


#4 posted 02-21-2008 05:07 AM

I’d cut them down and re-glue the boards to get the best design, but an alternative option (assuming the gaps aren’t overly long) would be to use inlay bowtie/dovetails but that only works if it matches your design and the gaps are small.

Good luck!

View jcees's profile

jcees

946 posts in 2465 days


#5 posted 02-21-2008 08:46 AM

Rip right down the middle of your glue lines. That should give you a clean and even glue edge by which to reassemble the piece. Use enough clamps and make sure you get even squeeze out. Just make sure that you don’t repeat the FUBAR. As you discovered, aliphatic white or yellow glues won’t accept stain. If you’ve got a slight gap that isn’t glaringly obvious, you can get away with adding the fill job to your finishing schedule. Good luck.

always,
J.C.

-- When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world. -- John Muir

View Andy's profile

Andy

13 posts in 2415 days


#6 posted 02-22-2008 02:05 AM

I think what I will try is insetting anouther type of wood in the cracks. It is way to late to rip and glue again. What I thought I would do is router a 1/4 inch stip along the cracks and at equal distances and insert douglas fir which was edge grain cut. My only worry is the difference in hard wood and soft wood sringage and expanding.
It will give it a different contrast. I will test on scrap wood first to see what it looks like. But that will have to wait untill next week when I on days off. After working 10 11 hrs. the last place I want to be is aroung sharp dangerous tools.
Andy

View skozub's profile

skozub

59 posts in 2425 days


#7 posted 02-22-2008 03:28 AM

if the inserts are thin pieces of stock you won’t get much wood movement if any.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase