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105K views 168 replies 65 participants last post by  mafe 
#1 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
 

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#2 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
Nice collection.

We get a lot of 4 1/2s this side of the pond

Welcome to LJ's

Jamie in a wet rainy midge infested Scotland
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
Looking good.
Yes we are more than one here with that infection…
I don't even want to count my planes anymore.
Best thoughts and good luck on the new job.
Best thoughts,
MaFe
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
Nice collection. And I am with Mafe "we don't want to count how many we have"
When someone asks I just say >1<800.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
Nice collection and story. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
Have you ever thought of getting new blades like hock or something like that?
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
I've thought about new blades, but the originals seem to be working just fine once sharpened.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
Don, when you start lapping the soles of the planes, do you use a handheld belt sander or a stationary one? Does it matter? After spending hours trying to lap the sole of a plane today with 60 grit sandpaper on a granite tile, I'm ready for a quicker method, at least to get the plane into rough shape.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Planes Restored - Because i can.

Throughout my many years of marriage, my wife has constantly dragging me on her antiquing outings. At some point I decided I needed to find a way to make the time useful. One day while looking over my 3 hand planes and knowing they needed serious tune ups, I started doing a little research. I was hooked at that point. I needed more planes, and I started buying and restoring.

Stumbling onto this site I see that I am far from alone. So, since so many have helped me along the way, I figured I'd give a little back. I'll try to document as I go, and where I've been. I often look over my shoulder and chuckle at the mistakes, but like any good Carpenter, I've learned to cover my mistakes. One, two, three, four, five…..yep, still got all fingers.

Professionally I work in technology and travel extensively, so time is often limited. Most of this writing will be evenings spent in a hotel, wishing I was in my shop. Hey, next years bonus may mean a Lie-Nielsen.

My shop started in a converted cow barn back when I was trying to make a living at it. Ceilings were to low, concrete was uneven and it was damp almost year round. Last year I finally built my wood shop, so now I have a place to work. My wife has stopped complaining about the time I spend on the computer and replaced it with the time I spend in my shop. Hey, at least I'm suggesting the flee market outings. It's a win-win.

Here is the current state of my collection:
Wood Horseshoe Hardwood Wood stain Metal


Some are restored, some are partially restored, and some just cleaned up and sharpened. All are working.

So far I have a few Stanley-Bailey's, Miller Falls, a Winchester and Craftsman. I'm looking for a 4 1/2 and a #2, but who knows what I will find next. I'm also hoping to stumble onto a 60 1/2 and a 9 1/2.

I haven't decided whether to keep using the A5. Its in reasonable shape and #5's are pretty cheap. I may start a "Just for show" set.

I have this week off before starting a new job next monday, but I have 2 projects to finish up. One is a set of drawers for my new bench, and the other is a rolling cart for my mechanics tool box. A new shop has needs you know!

Back to the shop for now.
I have a stationary. I would say it wouldn't matter but would think it would be harder with a hand held. To be honest, I've only had a few that were bad enough to resort to that.
 

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#10 ·
Making a knob without a lathe

Today I needed to replace a missing knob on a cheaper #4 I wanted to tune and get working. I wanted to make one, but I don't have a lathe. I figured there had to be a way to do it with my drill press. I tried drilling a hole in a block and locking it down with nuts on a threaded rod, but the nuts kept coming loose, even though I doubled them to lock them.

I knew I needed something a little more substantial until I can pick up a lathe. I found an old drill that didn't work anymore. I pulled the chuck and bearing end. In this case, the drill was so cheap, it wasn't even a bearing but a bushing. I drilled a hole in a block of wood the size of the bushing (or bearing) and drove the bushing into the hole.

Automotive tire Gas Cylinder Wood Machine

Wood Saw Tool Gas Automotive wheel system


I then drilled a hole next to the chuck to place a rod to act as a tool guide. I didn't need to attach the top, it sat in a groove where the spring case met the drill press frame, but you may want or need to attach it.

Wood Flooring Gas Hardwood Machine


I then needed a drive center and a live center. Looking around the shop I found a couple old forstner bits. I chucked one in each chuck, made sure the bottom and top were centered, marked the center of the wood blank, raised the bed to tighten the blank and made sure the bits were connected in the blank.

Wood Gas Cylinder Metal Flooring


Chair Wood Flooring Wood stain Natural material


I then happened to have a few turning tools, but some rasps would probably have worked as well. I created a guide from a piece of 1/4"plywood to match the knob I wanted to reproduce. Once it was shaped, I could sand and finish as I normally do.

Note this particular piece of wood was something I grabbed off the firewood pile. Next one will be a little better quality.

Also I found shaping worked best with the drill press spinning at a higher speed. Then I slowed it down a little for sanding.
Wood Food Ball Staple food Ingredient


Hope it helps
dw
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Making a knob without a lathe

Today I needed to replace a missing knob on a cheaper #4 I wanted to tune and get working. I wanted to make one, but I don't have a lathe. I figured there had to be a way to do it with my drill press. I tried drilling a hole in a block and locking it down with nuts on a threaded rod, but the nuts kept coming loose, even though I doubled them to lock them.

I knew I needed something a little more substantial until I can pick up a lathe. I found an old drill that didn't work anymore. I pulled the chuck and bearing end. In this case, the drill was so cheap, it wasn't even a bearing but a bushing. I drilled a hole in a block of wood the size of the bushing (or bearing) and drove the bushing into the hole.

Automotive tire Gas Cylinder Wood Machine

Wood Saw Tool Gas Automotive wheel system


I then drilled a hole next to the chuck to place a rod to act as a tool guide. I didn't need to attach the top, it sat in a groove where the spring case met the drill press frame, but you may want or need to attach it.

Wood Flooring Gas Hardwood Machine


I then needed a drive center and a live center. Looking around the shop I found a couple old forstner bits. I chucked one in each chuck, made sure the bottom and top were centered, marked the center of the wood blank, raised the bed to tighten the blank and made sure the bits were connected in the blank.

Wood Gas Cylinder Metal Flooring


Chair Wood Flooring Wood stain Natural material


I then happened to have a few turning tools, but some rasps would probably have worked as well. I created a guide from a piece of 1/4"plywood to match the knob I wanted to reproduce. Once it was shaped, I could sand and finish as I normally do.

Note this particular piece of wood was something I grabbed off the firewood pile. Next one will be a little better quality.

Also I found shaping worked best with the drill press spinning at a higher speed. Then I slowed it down a little for sanding.
Wood Food Ball Staple food Ingredient


Hope it helps
dw
Nice Job so far !!
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Making a new tote.

Today I decided to make a new tote for a plane. This is the first tote I've made, so I learned a few things, and I know there will be more. Here is the steps I took.

First i downloaded the templates from Lee Valley.
I then glued to to the blank and cut it to size. Make the grain parallel to the bottom of the template.
Wood Rectangle Flooring Road surface Font


I then drilled the holes. Make sure you drill it before you cut it out. First the tote top hole, then I drilled the through hole. I drilled from both sides first, then with a longer bit, cleaned it through. To keep it square I clamped 2 speed squares to each side.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Gas Metal


Wood Gas Tool Hardwood Wood stain


I then drilled the two holes as the template instructions indicate.

Edit: I typically don't bother drilling the holes anymore. I just cut out the whole thing with the bandsaw. I really haven't noticed any difference.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tool Creative arts


Then off to the bandsaw to cut it out.

Wood Gas Metal Tool Artifact


Road surface Wood Asphalt Tints and shades Flooring


Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Rectangle Electric blue


Then off to the router table with a round over bit. I've done this with a rasp as well, but the router is quicker.

Remember to not go all the way around. I marked the area I wanted to round over using a tote as a guide.

Wood Font Bumper Carmine Metal


Wood Gas Bird Circle Concrete


Then, i traced the top and the bottom from another tote. Off to the belt sander to round over and form the top and bottom.

Wood Composite material Cylinder Nail Thumb


Wood Finger Thumb Nail Hardwood


A little bit of rasp work.

Wood Natural material Tool Finger Art


Off to the spindle sander.

Safety glove Finger Wood Knee Thumb


Then a little hand sanding and we're pretty close. Here it is next to a tote being refinished.

Wood Sculpture Art Water Leisure


I'll finish and post the finished picture when available.

Here is the final.

Executive toy Wood Electric blue Art Fashion accessory


I wound up painting these. I wasn't sure how'd they come out so I made them out of a couple maple scraps. I wasn't crazy about the light color.

Edit, some additional experience:

I typically start the countersink hole for the nut, and finish it after shaping to get it exact.
Use the template but a bit of advice. The angle of the threads for bench planes are not exact. Check the angle against your plane before shaping it and get it exact. We've all seen bent tote rods. That bend is to compensate for the difference in the angle. (I learned this from a fellow LJ). I slightly modify the tote to reflect the exact angle before cutting the thing out.

I also struggled to get the front hole on a #5 and larger plane. I've found the easiest way to get it exact is with a broken sole. I dropped a #5 on the concrete and shattered it way beyond repair. I was heart broken, but it became my ''front hole template''. I drilled a pilot hole all the way through, and now just hook up the tote and drill it exact.

Wood Flooring Floor Art Hardwood


For sanding I have an old transitional frame. I hook up the tote, hold the frame in the vice, and can sand with a long piece of paper (like a lath strip). Any base would work, but the transitional frame doesn't have the wider hump to get in the way.

Hand tool Wood Outdoor shoe Wood stain Tool


Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


As with all woodworking, make more than one at a time to save time
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Making a new tote.

Today I decided to make a new tote for a plane. This is the first tote I've made, so I learned a few things, and I know there will be more. Here is the steps I took.

First i downloaded the templates from Lee Valley.
I then glued to to the blank and cut it to size. Make the grain parallel to the bottom of the template.
Wood Rectangle Flooring Road surface Font


I then drilled the holes. Make sure you drill it before you cut it out. First the tote top hole, then I drilled the through hole. I drilled from both sides first, then with a longer bit, cleaned it through. To keep it square I clamped 2 speed squares to each side.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Gas Metal


Wood Gas Tool Hardwood Wood stain


I then drilled the two holes as the template instructions indicate.

Edit: I typically don't bother drilling the holes anymore. I just cut out the whole thing with the bandsaw. I really haven't noticed any difference.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tool Creative arts


Then off to the bandsaw to cut it out.

Wood Gas Metal Tool Artifact


Road surface Wood Asphalt Tints and shades Flooring


Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Rectangle Electric blue


Then off to the router table with a round over bit. I've done this with a rasp as well, but the router is quicker.

Remember to not go all the way around. I marked the area I wanted to round over using a tote as a guide.

Wood Font Bumper Carmine Metal


Wood Gas Bird Circle Concrete


Then, i traced the top and the bottom from another tote. Off to the belt sander to round over and form the top and bottom.

Wood Composite material Cylinder Nail Thumb


Wood Finger Thumb Nail Hardwood


A little bit of rasp work.

Wood Natural material Tool Finger Art


Off to the spindle sander.

Safety glove Finger Wood Knee Thumb


Then a little hand sanding and we're pretty close. Here it is next to a tote being refinished.

Wood Sculpture Art Water Leisure


I'll finish and post the finished picture when available.

Here is the final.

Executive toy Wood Electric blue Art Fashion accessory


I wound up painting these. I wasn't sure how'd they come out so I made them out of a couple maple scraps. I wasn't crazy about the light color.

Edit, some additional experience:

I typically start the countersink hole for the nut, and finish it after shaping to get it exact.
Use the template but a bit of advice. The angle of the threads for bench planes are not exact. Check the angle against your plane before shaping it and get it exact. We've all seen bent tote rods. That bend is to compensate for the difference in the angle. (I learned this from a fellow LJ). I slightly modify the tote to reflect the exact angle before cutting the thing out.

I also struggled to get the front hole on a #5 and larger plane. I've found the easiest way to get it exact is with a broken sole. I dropped a #5 on the concrete and shattered it way beyond repair. I was heart broken, but it became my ''front hole template''. I drilled a pilot hole all the way through, and now just hook up the tote and drill it exact.

Wood Flooring Floor Art Hardwood


For sanding I have an old transitional frame. I hook up the tote, hold the frame in the vice, and can sand with a long piece of paper (like a lath strip). Any base would work, but the transitional frame doesn't have the wider hump to get in the way.

Hand tool Wood Outdoor shoe Wood stain Tool


Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


As with all woodworking, make more than one at a time to save time
Very nice job and a very nice tutorial. Thanks!!
 

Attachments

#40 ·
Fixing a tote.

I've had some question on how I fix the totes. Its a relatively easy task. I typically remove the tote, clean the break and simply glue it back together.

Wood Font Metal Hardwood Tool


The hard part is holding it together while the glue dries.

I've tried several ways. here is what I do.

Wood Tool Wood stain Varnish Hardwood


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Flooring


But the way that seems to work for me best:

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Plywood


I typically use whatever glue is handy, either titebond II or III. I asked this group on LJ's in another thread, and the samer answer came back several times.

Update: Since I wrote this I have had a couple handles rebreak using regular glue. Having done some gun smithing and stock repairs in the past, I know this epoxy will hold anything. It also comes with a coloring agent which helps hide the line if its not a nice clean break. A kit would do a lot of totes.

Sand and finish as you would anything.

Hope this helps
 

Attachments

#41 ·
Fixing a tote.

I've had some question on how I fix the totes. Its a relatively easy task. I typically remove the tote, clean the break and simply glue it back together.

Wood Font Metal Hardwood Tool


The hard part is holding it together while the glue dries.

I've tried several ways. here is what I do.

Wood Tool Wood stain Varnish Hardwood


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Flooring


But the way that seems to work for me best:

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Gas Plywood


I typically use whatever glue is handy, either titebond II or III. I asked this group on LJ's in another thread, and the samer answer came back several times.

Update: Since I wrote this I have had a couple handles rebreak using regular glue. Having done some gun smithing and stock repairs in the past, I know this epoxy will hold anything. It also comes with a coloring agent which helps hide the line if its not a nice clean break. A kit would do a lot of totes.

Sand and finish as you would anything.

Hope this helps
I like your use of the vice. I've also had good luck with large wood screw clamps….

close up handle

Look ma no break
 

Attachments

#47 ·
#7 - more of the story - fixing the cap iron.

So for more of the Stanley #7 story. As I was riding through the foothills of Vermont and collecting a nice #3 and #7, I had bid on another #7 on Ebay. My bid, I thought, was low enough that I just wanted it to show up in my bidding list. When I got home, toting a #7 in my saddlebags, didn't I have an email telling me I had won the bid. With the price i paid, I was happy enough. I went from no #7s to two #7's in a single day.

As I started to clean this one up, the one issue with this plane was the very end of the iron and the cap iron was rusted and pitted pretty bad. With the iron, I simply "sharpened" it down about an 1/8". That got it past the bad spot. I always polish up the cap iron (also know as chip breakers) for a much smoother operation. This blog will show you how I get the cap iron job done.

Depending on the severity of the work needed, I may just wire brush the top side and polish, but in most cases its more severe than that. I will sand this out starting with a grit appropriate for the rust, (this one started with 120, it was pretty bad) and gradually increadse grit size up to 600, then polish on the wheel.

Its only important to get from the tip to the top of the crown. After thats its just cosmetic and i don't get as fussy. I will clean this one up a little better, but it will not shine all the way to the top.

Wood Wood stain Composite material Gas Metal


Automotive exterior Rectangle Bumper Wood Gas


Wood Table Wood stain Tints and shades Hardwood


You also want to make sure there is a tight fit between the cap iron and the iron itself. If there is not a tight fit, wood chips will clog up between the two and just ruin your day.

First grind the tip so its sharp. It doesn't have to be sharp like your iron, but smooth and straight so a good seal is formed when you screw the two together. I usually do this on my horizontal wet stone, by simply holding the top end lower than the tip.

Wood Hand tool Finger Tool Gas


It usually doesn't take much. If you don't have such a grinder, a wetstone will work, as before, hold the top lower than the tip.

Wood Staple food Hardwood Metal Food


Next lets ensure there is some spring in the cap to force it against the iron when the two are attached. Using a straight edge, make sure there is a gap when the straight edge is set tip to tip.

Wood Rectangle Gas Flooring Audio equipment


If there is not a gap, clamp the cap iron in a vice and gently push it to create it. Try to keep the pressure low so the movement comes at the bend in the iron. You can also clamp from the other end and tap it with a hammer. Use a block of wood as wide or wider than the iron so the whole width gets bent evenly.

Electrician Electrical wiring Engineering Gas Machine


After the iron has been sharpened, here is the results.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Hand tool Varnish


I have some more cosmetic work to do on this second #7. I'm waiting to get to tractor supply. At the advise of several other LJ members, I'm going to try evapo-rust to strip this one.
 

Attachments

#48 ·
#7 - more of the story - fixing the cap iron.

So for more of the Stanley #7 story. As I was riding through the foothills of Vermont and collecting a nice #3 and #7, I had bid on another #7 on Ebay. My bid, I thought, was low enough that I just wanted it to show up in my bidding list. When I got home, toting a #7 in my saddlebags, didn't I have an email telling me I had won the bid. With the price i paid, I was happy enough. I went from no #7s to two #7's in a single day.

As I started to clean this one up, the one issue with this plane was the very end of the iron and the cap iron was rusted and pitted pretty bad. With the iron, I simply "sharpened" it down about an 1/8". That got it past the bad spot. I always polish up the cap iron (also know as chip breakers) for a much smoother operation. This blog will show you how I get the cap iron job done.

Depending on the severity of the work needed, I may just wire brush the top side and polish, but in most cases its more severe than that. I will sand this out starting with a grit appropriate for the rust, (this one started with 120, it was pretty bad) and gradually increadse grit size up to 600, then polish on the wheel.

Its only important to get from the tip to the top of the crown. After thats its just cosmetic and i don't get as fussy. I will clean this one up a little better, but it will not shine all the way to the top.

Wood Wood stain Composite material Gas Metal


Automotive exterior Rectangle Bumper Wood Gas


Wood Table Wood stain Tints and shades Hardwood


You also want to make sure there is a tight fit between the cap iron and the iron itself. If there is not a tight fit, wood chips will clog up between the two and just ruin your day.

First grind the tip so its sharp. It doesn't have to be sharp like your iron, but smooth and straight so a good seal is formed when you screw the two together. I usually do this on my horizontal wet stone, by simply holding the top end lower than the tip.

Wood Hand tool Finger Tool Gas


It usually doesn't take much. If you don't have such a grinder, a wetstone will work, as before, hold the top lower than the tip.

Wood Staple food Hardwood Metal Food


Next lets ensure there is some spring in the cap to force it against the iron when the two are attached. Using a straight edge, make sure there is a gap when the straight edge is set tip to tip.

Wood Rectangle Gas Flooring Audio equipment


If there is not a gap, clamp the cap iron in a vice and gently push it to create it. Try to keep the pressure low so the movement comes at the bend in the iron. You can also clamp from the other end and tap it with a hammer. Use a block of wood as wide or wider than the iron so the whole width gets bent evenly.

Electrician Electrical wiring Engineering Gas Machine


After the iron has been sharpened, here is the results.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Hand tool Varnish


I have some more cosmetic work to do on this second #7. I'm waiting to get to tractor supply. At the advise of several other LJ members, I'm going to try evapo-rust to strip this one.
Beautiful shaves.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

Attachments

#52 ·
Typing your plane, oh the dilemma

I'm writing this to help everyone avoid some of the confusion I have encountered trying to buy parts for a particular plane. For me it started with an early #3 i bought with a broken frog.

First I went to this Plane dating flow chart 1-20. It works ok, but a lot of information is on the part of the frog I didn't have. Also you never know if all the parts (particularly the iron) is original.

I had purchased this replacement frog for my #3 of of ebay.
Cable Electronic component Electronics accessory Metal Auto part


But this is was what mine is"
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Triangle


Notice the legs are shorter

The nice thing about The RexMill site is it has pictures.

So I knew mine didn't have the frog adjustment screw, but didn't realize there was more to it when I ordered the replacement frog. At this point I still didn't really know if it had a lateral adjustment or not.

In comparing it seemed to be a type 4 or 5. A look at the iron showed "Stanley" in a straight line instead of a curve, which should represent a type 5.

So I've been waffling back and forth between a 4 (without a lateral adjustment) or a 5 (with a lateral adjustment). I am currently under the impression its a type 5.

The other information that is a bit misleading is whether the number is stamped in the bed. Apparently a type 5 had the number stamped in the bed, and mine did not. Further research lead me to understand that the number may not have been stamped in the 2's and 3's. Again, it could be a 5.

Off to compare feature on the Stanley Plane Features Timeline MegaChart. This chart is amazing. It should help narrow down the type even more.

So I guess its a 4 or a 5, and if I find a replacement frog with an lateral adjustment that fits it will make it a type 5, if I find one without, it'll wind up a 4, although my goal would be to keep it original if I know what that means. Any further insight would be greatly appreciated. In the mean time, it works just fine with the broken frog.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


I love working as a "plane" mechanic, and this will not deter me at all. The more I learn, the more fun it becomes.

Hope this helps
dw

Typing hand planes start page on timetestedtools.net

References: (also see my Plane reference blog)
Rexmills type Study
antique-used-tools.com frog comparison

Plane dating flow chart

Brass City quick plane ID

Stanley Plane Features Timeline MegaChart
 

Attachments

#53 ·
Typing your plane, oh the dilemma

I'm writing this to help everyone avoid some of the confusion I have encountered trying to buy parts for a particular plane. For me it started with an early #3 i bought with a broken frog.

First I went to this Plane dating flow chart 1-20. It works ok, but a lot of information is on the part of the frog I didn't have. Also you never know if all the parts (particularly the iron) is original.

I had purchased this replacement frog for my #3 of of ebay.
Cable Electronic component Electronics accessory Metal Auto part


But this is was what mine is"
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Triangle


Notice the legs are shorter

The nice thing about The RexMill site is it has pictures.

So I knew mine didn't have the frog adjustment screw, but didn't realize there was more to it when I ordered the replacement frog. At this point I still didn't really know if it had a lateral adjustment or not.

In comparing it seemed to be a type 4 or 5. A look at the iron showed "Stanley" in a straight line instead of a curve, which should represent a type 5.

So I've been waffling back and forth between a 4 (without a lateral adjustment) or a 5 (with a lateral adjustment). I am currently under the impression its a type 5.

The other information that is a bit misleading is whether the number is stamped in the bed. Apparently a type 5 had the number stamped in the bed, and mine did not. Further research lead me to understand that the number may not have been stamped in the 2's and 3's. Again, it could be a 5.

Off to compare feature on the Stanley Plane Features Timeline MegaChart. This chart is amazing. It should help narrow down the type even more.

So I guess its a 4 or a 5, and if I find a replacement frog with an lateral adjustment that fits it will make it a type 5, if I find one without, it'll wind up a 4, although my goal would be to keep it original if I know what that means. Any further insight would be greatly appreciated. In the mean time, it works just fine with the broken frog.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


I love working as a "plane" mechanic, and this will not deter me at all. The more I learn, the more fun it becomes.

Hope this helps
dw

Typing hand planes start page on timetestedtools.net

References: (also see my Plane reference blog)
Rexmills type Study
antique-used-tools.com frog comparison

Plane dating flow chart

Brass City quick plane ID

Stanley Plane Features Timeline MegaChart
I would leave it the way it is. It is a wonderful old plane as it sits.
 

Attachments

#64 ·
Sharpening. Its all in your head.

Edited 1-12-2014

Edited to add some notes for plane restoration and for further free hand instructions and clarifications.

I use an 8" aluminum oxide wheel for my bench grinder.
Automotive tire Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle


And yes I've put the cover back on.

I can still burn a blade if I'm not reasonably careful, but It works fairly well. I like the 8" wheel because the hollow in the bevel is smaller, making for a stronger edge. I also made this bench guide similar to one in one of Krenov's books. I simply use wedges to adjust for different angles or thicker blades.

Table Wood Floor Flooring Motor vehicle


Tool Wood Gas Machine Ladder


The wedges are marked so I can get back to the place I need to be. Flat without any wedges is 25 degrees.

Hand tool Finger Wood Kitchen utensil Tool


Note, you can also hollow grind on a belt sander, if you want to try it before buying a grinder, or you just don't have space for a grinder and you already have a belt sander.

The slot serves two purposes, a place for your fingers to slide, and you could make a guide if you have problems keeping the blade square. I made some square cut marks for references and that's all I need.

.

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Finger Tread

.

Automotive tire Wood Finger Wood stain Hardwood


If the cutter is from a plane restore, re-grinding a cutter is just a matter of taking a few more passes on the grinder were needed. Keep a square in your hand and check it as often as you need to. I always keep a gauge to check the angle to. Since this is a make shift angle jig it's prone to getting moved on me sometimes.

I typically take 4 or 5 strokes, a dip of water between each (or almost each pass), then step to the extra course DMT to work on the back. Yes, I know I'm not finished with the bevel yet. I have 2 sticks on the bench, one about 1 1/2" wide and one just shy of 2", about a foot long that I use to hold on top of the cutter while flattening the back. Use the one slightly narrower than the cutter.

Wood Hand tool Tool Metalworking hand tool Gas


Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Composite material


Wood Automotive exterior Metalworking hand tool Tool Bumper


Just back and forth for a few strokes ( 30+\- depending on my mood) while pushing down on the stick, then back to the grinder. I do the back and front rotation thing so the grinder doesn't burn. I tend to be impatient. (note for cutters that have a really out of flat back, or some pitting, I will often start on a belt sander)

Once the edge is square and I have a burr, (some don't wait for the burr, but I always do) and the back is flat on the extra course stone then I hit the hard Arkansas. I do the back first. Its already flat, so a few strokes to get it smooth. I then polish it on a felt wheel.

Leg Wood Flooring Finger Thigh


Wood Wall Composite material Gas Rectangle


Wood Window Gas Flooring Machine


Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Gas


Then back to the Arkansas, Set the hollow ground bevel on the stone with your pointer finger of each hand on the front, pushing down hard. Rock it forward and back and hear the click. Forward and back until you know its sitting flat. Click front, click back, shorter and shorter forward and back movements until its down flat on the stone. Now pushing down so hard with your pointer fingers it hurts, then slide the cutter forward, using the sides of your hands. Now pull it back. Eventually you will see you don't need to push down so hard it hurts, but keep it up until you feel comfortable that you can keep it flat.

Now, to round the corners you'll want about 10 strokes with pressure on one side and then the other.

This is why I don't care for a jig at this point. Let say you're grinding at 25 degrees, you need the jig set at precisely 25 degrees. What if one is 25 1/2 degrees? It has to be perfect. Without the jig, minor variations are indifferent.

Now pull the back across a strop. I have one of Red's that works great, but even a piece of brown paper bag will work. I don't usually use any compound, but you can if you want. Paul Sellers recommends 30 strokes. I don't think you need that many. 10 is good in my book. Keep the back flat, this is important. Now the front. I just pull it by eye. Its better to error to far back than to far front. To far front can round the edge. You just want to strip the burr if any is left and possibly polish the face, but it should already be pretty close.

If I'm in a hurry and resharpening, I'll sometimes just drag it across the palm of my hand. Yes be careful if you decide to try it, but it works!

Also just touching up on the strop can help prolong between sharpenings.

*
a few notes

-I use a mixture of Diesel fuel and mineral oil in a spray bottle with the oil stones.
-Note for equipment I've used a grinder (something every shop should have)
-A good wheel. (I think mine is 120 grit)
-An extra course DMT (any course stone or sandpaper will work)
-I use dollar store window cleaner (I don't know the chemistry of it, but dollar store window cleaner uses cheaper chemicals that coincidently helps against rusting the plates)
-A hard Arkansas stone. A good fine waterstone will work if you prefer water stones.
-A strop
-A felt wheel for polishing. I run mine on an electric motor, but one in the drill press will work as well. Green or red compound. If you really don't want to bother with a felt wheel, just some extra work on the strop with some compound will work as well

Here is the fine Arkasa stone. ($15 at a flea market)

Rectangle Wood Gas Metal Wood stain


And no I'm not suggesting equipment like the Tormek doesn't do a nice jib, I am suggesting you don't need them if you don't have that kind of money or just don't want to spend that kind of money. Plus my technic is quicker.
 

Attachments

#65 ·
Sharpening. Its all in your head.

Edited 1-12-2014

Edited to add some notes for plane restoration and for further free hand instructions and clarifications.

I use an 8" aluminum oxide wheel for my bench grinder.
Automotive tire Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle


And yes I've put the cover back on.

I can still burn a blade if I'm not reasonably careful, but It works fairly well. I like the 8" wheel because the hollow in the bevel is smaller, making for a stronger edge. I also made this bench guide similar to one in one of Krenov's books. I simply use wedges to adjust for different angles or thicker blades.

Table Wood Floor Flooring Motor vehicle


Tool Wood Gas Machine Ladder


The wedges are marked so I can get back to the place I need to be. Flat without any wedges is 25 degrees.

Hand tool Finger Wood Kitchen utensil Tool


Note, you can also hollow grind on a belt sander, if you want to try it before buying a grinder, or you just don't have space for a grinder and you already have a belt sander.

The slot serves two purposes, a place for your fingers to slide, and you could make a guide if you have problems keeping the blade square. I made some square cut marks for references and that's all I need.

.

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Finger Tread

.

Automotive tire Wood Finger Wood stain Hardwood


If the cutter is from a plane restore, re-grinding a cutter is just a matter of taking a few more passes on the grinder were needed. Keep a square in your hand and check it as often as you need to. I always keep a gauge to check the angle to. Since this is a make shift angle jig it's prone to getting moved on me sometimes.

I typically take 4 or 5 strokes, a dip of water between each (or almost each pass), then step to the extra course DMT to work on the back. Yes, I know I'm not finished with the bevel yet. I have 2 sticks on the bench, one about 1 1/2" wide and one just shy of 2", about a foot long that I use to hold on top of the cutter while flattening the back. Use the one slightly narrower than the cutter.

Wood Hand tool Tool Metalworking hand tool Gas


Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Composite material


Wood Automotive exterior Metalworking hand tool Tool Bumper


Just back and forth for a few strokes ( 30+\- depending on my mood) while pushing down on the stick, then back to the grinder. I do the back and front rotation thing so the grinder doesn't burn. I tend to be impatient. (note for cutters that have a really out of flat back, or some pitting, I will often start on a belt sander)

Once the edge is square and I have a burr, (some don't wait for the burr, but I always do) and the back is flat on the extra course stone then I hit the hard Arkansas. I do the back first. Its already flat, so a few strokes to get it smooth. I then polish it on a felt wheel.

Leg Wood Flooring Finger Thigh


Wood Wall Composite material Gas Rectangle


Wood Window Gas Flooring Machine


Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Gas


Then back to the Arkansas, Set the hollow ground bevel on the stone with your pointer finger of each hand on the front, pushing down hard. Rock it forward and back and hear the click. Forward and back until you know its sitting flat. Click front, click back, shorter and shorter forward and back movements until its down flat on the stone. Now pushing down so hard with your pointer fingers it hurts, then slide the cutter forward, using the sides of your hands. Now pull it back. Eventually you will see you don't need to push down so hard it hurts, but keep it up until you feel comfortable that you can keep it flat.

Now, to round the corners you'll want about 10 strokes with pressure on one side and then the other.

This is why I don't care for a jig at this point. Let say you're grinding at 25 degrees, you need the jig set at precisely 25 degrees. What if one is 25 1/2 degrees? It has to be perfect. Without the jig, minor variations are indifferent.

Now pull the back across a strop. I have one of Red's that works great, but even a piece of brown paper bag will work. I don't usually use any compound, but you can if you want. Paul Sellers recommends 30 strokes. I don't think you need that many. 10 is good in my book. Keep the back flat, this is important. Now the front. I just pull it by eye. Its better to error to far back than to far front. To far front can round the edge. You just want to strip the burr if any is left and possibly polish the face, but it should already be pretty close.

If I'm in a hurry and resharpening, I'll sometimes just drag it across the palm of my hand. Yes be careful if you decide to try it, but it works!

Also just touching up on the strop can help prolong between sharpenings.

*
a few notes

-I use a mixture of Diesel fuel and mineral oil in a spray bottle with the oil stones.
-Note for equipment I've used a grinder (something every shop should have)
-A good wheel. (I think mine is 120 grit)
-An extra course DMT (any course stone or sandpaper will work)
-I use dollar store window cleaner (I don't know the chemistry of it, but dollar store window cleaner uses cheaper chemicals that coincidently helps against rusting the plates)
-A hard Arkansas stone. A good fine waterstone will work if you prefer water stones.
-A strop
-A felt wheel for polishing. I run mine on an electric motor, but one in the drill press will work as well. Green or red compound. If you really don't want to bother with a felt wheel, just some extra work on the strop with some compound will work as well

Here is the fine Arkasa stone. ($15 at a flea market)

Rectangle Wood Gas Metal Wood stain


And no I'm not suggesting equipment like the Tormek doesn't do a nice jib, I am suggesting you don't need them if you don't have that kind of money or just don't want to spend that kind of money. Plus my technic is quicker.
Looks like a nice addition to your shop. Glad the flea market stars aligned for you….
 

Attachments

#71 ·
Electrolysis

First and formost I want to thank Al for his Electrolysis: on the cheap for vintage tool people and all the other LJ members who responded. This is a shortened version of the forum thread.

Go get a rubber tote, a battery charger, some Arm and Hammer Washing Soda and a long piece of metal (like a length of rebar, or steel rod or bar)

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Packing materials


Add water and about a table spoon of Washing soda (baking soda doesn't work nearly as well) to each gallon of water. I like to error on the "more"side, this stuff is $2.77 a box. Cost doesn't seem to be much of an issue.

Stick the rod in the water so it doesn't touch the metal your derusting. Connect your positive side of the battery charger to this rod, bar, or whatever you chose.

Wood Gas Hardwood Composite material Wood stain


Clamp the negative side to the metal piece. You may need to clean a spot up enough to get contact. Let it "cook"for a few hours. Over night if its really bad. Cooking to long doesn't hurt. If there is no rust to act on, its just idling.
This went in late morning

Wood Tool Plane Hardwood Wood stain


This came out early evening:

Bumper Wood Composite material Tool Automotive exterior


A couple of squirts of WD40, polish the brass and wire brush the outside for this:
Wood Musical instrument accessory Hardwood Tool Wood stain


It can't get any simpler. If it sounds at all complicated, re-read. If you think its complicated stop thinking. It so easy its scary.

Edit 4-2-2012
I thought I'd post an update. I struggled with this a little. It always took to long so I never really bothered with it. Somewhere threw another conversation I mentioned I had a new battery charger and it didn't seem to work right for electrolysis. Another LJ suggested putting a battery inline between the charger and the vat. What a difference. I had a dead garden tractor battery so I stuck it inline. In just seconds an old rusty block plane created this reaction.

Water Fluid Gas Plumbing fixture Plumbing


Those are bubbles you see.

In the morning it looked like this
Liquid Fluid Amber Wood Gas


I'll be using this method much more now.
 

Attachments

#72 ·
Electrolysis

First and formost I want to thank Al for his Electrolysis: on the cheap for vintage tool people and all the other LJ members who responded. This is a shortened version of the forum thread.

Go get a rubber tote, a battery charger, some Arm and Hammer Washing Soda and a long piece of metal (like a length of rebar, or steel rod or bar)

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Packing materials


Add water and about a table spoon of Washing soda (baking soda doesn't work nearly as well) to each gallon of water. I like to error on the "more"side, this stuff is $2.77 a box. Cost doesn't seem to be much of an issue.

Stick the rod in the water so it doesn't touch the metal your derusting. Connect your positive side of the battery charger to this rod, bar, or whatever you chose.

Wood Gas Hardwood Composite material Wood stain


Clamp the negative side to the metal piece. You may need to clean a spot up enough to get contact. Let it "cook"for a few hours. Over night if its really bad. Cooking to long doesn't hurt. If there is no rust to act on, its just idling.
This went in late morning

Wood Tool Plane Hardwood Wood stain


This came out early evening:

Bumper Wood Composite material Tool Automotive exterior


A couple of squirts of WD40, polish the brass and wire brush the outside for this:
Wood Musical instrument accessory Hardwood Tool Wood stain


It can't get any simpler. If it sounds at all complicated, re-read. If you think its complicated stop thinking. It so easy its scary.

Edit 4-2-2012
I thought I'd post an update. I struggled with this a little. It always took to long so I never really bothered with it. Somewhere threw another conversation I mentioned I had a new battery charger and it didn't seem to work right for electrolysis. Another LJ suggested putting a battery inline between the charger and the vat. What a difference. I had a dead garden tractor battery so I stuck it inline. In just seconds an old rusty block plane created this reaction.

Water Fluid Gas Plumbing fixture Plumbing


Those are bubbles you see.

In the morning it looked like this
Liquid Fluid Amber Wood Gas


I'll be using this method much more now.
Thanks for sharing. Have a recommendation for the battery charger?
 

Attachments

#79 ·
Plane Restoration, roll it together with a Millers Falls #10

So, I bought this bunch of planes in this pile which is shown with all the other weekend finds. Included at the bottom of the pile was this Millers Falls #10.

NOTE: This blog is not a suggestion to strip every plane and repaint. I actually would suggest otherwise if the japanning is in reasonable condition. Some are not savable and I don't like tools that look terrible. If you can save it, I'd recommend that. If not, strip it.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Wood Shoulder plane


I figured since this plane needed almost anything a plane restore could need, I would expand on it a bit and talk about my methodology for metal bench plane restoration, because when I pulled it from the pile it looked like this.

Wood Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Floor Flooring


Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content
Brown Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood


First i should note that you may find the occasional picture from another plane restore. I'm not trying to trick anyone, just get the details in and I can't guarantee i have all the pictures I need from the Millers Falls #10. Most of my planes are Stanleys, but I have to admit I have a sort of soft spot for the good Millers Falls planes. Maybe its because they are the underdog, or maybe its the brighter shinier metal that I usually have to strip because its flaking away, either way, here we go.

First I take it all apart and put the parts in a plastic container. That to keep all the parts together as best as i can. I tend to have multiple projects happening in my shop, and since I don't do this for a living, its possible i don't get back for a few days or a week. I don't want to have to remember where I put the parts. I then stand for a minute to contemplate what to start on first. The decisions are usually based on mood more than a real process.
Wood Tool Hand tool Art Metal


Lets talk about the japanning. I'm a firm believer in leaving the japanning on an older plane if its reasonable. It could increase the value of the plane, but a lot of the planes I find the japanning is shot. Determining what to do next will take some trial and error if you've never done it, but here is what I use.

If you are just looking for clean up, what this http://lumberjocks.com/replies/612946
If you just want a good tune up, try this.

If your not going to repaint, its a good idea to give the japanned areas a couple of coats of shellac. This will bring back a bit of the luster and help protect both the japanning and any bare metal where the japanning is gone. If you don't like shellac, a good waxing will do as well.

Electrolysis. Its a a great process and will get rid of the rust, or at least make it easy to brush off. I have used it and I will continue to use it at times. The draw backs are this. It takes a little time. You need to get it set up and it typically takes over night for most planes. You need a plastic container big enough for the piece your de-rusting and you need a battery charger. I will guarantee once you've used it you will continue if you plan to do this often. See Al's blog for further instructions.
Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Packing materials


Evapo-rust. Sold at some Tractor Supply's and internet sites. Its $20 a gallon so its more expensive than electrolysis. A gallon will do a quit a few plane and other tools though. Just set the piece in it and let it set over night. Again the rust will either wipe off or wire brush right off the next day. I wire brush my parts first, just to make the evapo-rust last longer and try to keep it cleaner.
Liquid Fluid Automotive care Bottle cap Automotive tire


To use evapo-rust, you can use a plastic tote like the electrolysis, or I made an aluminum tray out of flashing material. Its narrower so it takes less to cover the plane. I can also tilt it in one direction so its deeper on one end.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE. MAKE SURE THE WHOLE PIECE IS COVERED. EVAPO-RUST WILL LEAVE AN ETCH MARK AT THE WATER LEVEL THAT WILL NOT EASILY COME OUT!

Wood Pink Material property Magenta Gas


I also made a wire basket for the smaller parts.

Insect Wood Pest Pollinator Hardwood


This is what the Millers Falls looked like when it came out of the evapo-rust. I had hopes I could save the japanning, but there was to much rust under the japanning that I didn't see until it was lifted.

Wood Tool Composite material Hardwood Metal


I knew it needed to be painted, so lets break out the sand blaster.

Sand Blasting. My favorite for planes that you know you need to paint. I bought a $30 sand blasting gun at amazon.com and haven't looked back. Again, I try to leave the japanning if I can, but if it needs painting this is the way to go. Screened play sand will work just fine, but I bought some aluminum oxide blasting grit which works a little better. Don't be afraid to stick with the play sand for a while. Its does a fine job. The draw back of sand blasting is you need a decent air compressor.

EDIT: I've noticed recently the sand blasting guns are even cheaper at Amazon.

Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Composite material


I also created a small blasting cabinet. You can re-use the media and it keeps it contained. Plus it doesn't get all over my shop.
Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Wood stain


Note most of it is plastic except for a piece of glass in the front. That's so its easier to wipe off and see through. The bottom is open so I set it on my bench on a flat piece of steel (plywood would work too) to catch the sand. Note the 2 hand holes in the front. What you can not see is the top. I have 2 holes drilled in a piece of plywood. One is for the air hose. The other is for a shop vac. When using play sand for media, it helps to suck the dust out so you can see.

It takes me 30-40 minute to setup and clean a base using the Sand Blaster. Obviously doing 2 or 3 at once is quicker.

Wood Tool Hardwood Composite material Rebate plane


Edit 7-2013. Another Sandblasting upgrade. It works better than I anticipated. I like it a lot. Its highly recommended.

Automotive tire Wood Audio equipment Automotive lighting Motor vehicle


Take a look at my #8c restore for more picture of before and after sandblasting.

Edit 7-2013

Citric Acid. I finally ordered some citric acid to try out. This stuff is great. I had trouble finding it local, so I finally ordered it from Amazon. I started with a #1 bag, but it seems like even that small bag will go a long way. Just add water and some powder. I haven't used it enough to know how much exactly, but I added about 1/4 cup to my 24" window box liner and I've done several planes in it so far. I had a broken plane and wanted to see what happened if I left it soak to long, so I stuck it in on sunday, took it out the next Saturday. I had a nice rust free plane with no adverse affect. I highly recommend this stuff.

Note the citric acid won't strip the japanning, so it can be used like evapo-rust for de-rusting the planes you find that you'll be saving the existing japanning. I love finding those!!

The old fashion way. Wire brushes and scrapers and screw drivers and sand paper and whatever else you have to work the stuff off. This is the hardest way, but if you plan to only do one or two, it may be your choice.

Paint Stripper. Paint stripper will work if added to "the old fashion way" above. It will usually take a few applications. I have used it but for me its messy and time consuming. Again, if you are only going to do a few planes, it may a choice.

Now lets move on to the frog
Next you will want to wire brush the frog so you can paint them together. I don't have a picture wire brushing the frog, but you will want a course and a fine wire brush like this one:

Motor vehicle Wood Wheel Automotive tire Machine tool


There is usually a little hand work on the frog as well. I have some larger and smaller wire brushes I use. Use what ever works for you. I also have a collection of wire brushes for the drill. I will use whatever works.

Wood Automotive tire Table Flooring Hardwood


Of course If your sandblasting the sole, the frog can be easily sandblasted as well.

It's typically easier on the frog to tape off the areas to not be painted. If the base hasn't been cleaned up I don't bother, but If I have the rest of the base complete, I'll mask it with painter tape.

Next paint it. Wipe it down with mineral spirits or paint thinner to get all the dust off it. I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint I find the Dupli-Color to be a little closer to the original finish. What I like about the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel is you re-coat after 10 minutes. I usually let it sit for 15 minutes and add a coat. I will give it 4 or 5 coats. VERY IMPORTANT Note you can not re coat if you wait longer than about 1 hour though. If it starts to set up the fresh paint will cause the semi dry paint to peel and curl up. If you need to repaint wait 7 days as described on the can.

NOTE: If you want to try traditional japanning, here is a very very good series, http://lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/series/5621

Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Tire Road surface


I try to paint the frog and base together just to save time.

I may take the fork off if it comes apart easily. I paint the fork as well.

Gesture Toy Finger Wood Thumb

Automotive lighting Gas Eyewear Automotive mirror Camera


Next Polish the sides of the base. I use a belt sander if they need it, but have done a few by hand sanding. I find most can be cleaned up well enough with the wire wheel. It really depends on how much shine you're looking to get. I like the flat luster from the wire wheel.

Camera accessory Cameras & optics Audio equipment Film camera Reflex camera


Flatten the frog. File the frog flat. It really doesn't matter if you do this before or after painting. I usually wind up doing it after. I lock it in a vise and hold the file flat while filing it. It doesn't need to be perfect. Some like to polish this as well, but its not really necessary.

Hand Wood Finger Bumper Thumb


Check and fix the cap iron. First thing I do is wire brush it. It should be re-rusted by now with whatever you decided, or you can just wire brush it. I find I will wire brush it first, then throw it in the evapo-rust if It still needs a little help. You can also touch it to a belt sander to shine it up a bit if needed. I go into more detail here.

Sharpen it After cleaning up the iron (just like the cap iron) you'll need to sharpen it. How I go about that process is described here.

Now for the wood. I chuck the knob in the drill press.

Wood Floor Flooring Lamp Gas


I use a bolt with a 1/4" Philips head that's been ground down slightly so it fits inside the knob where the brass nut goes. Tighten it down with a washer and chuck it in the drill press. Only chuck it hand tight so you don't trash the threads.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Gas


Sand it with 60 grit if it still has a varnish or hard finish. then up through 500 grit. If it had an oil finish I'll start with 220 grit. First few coats of BLO goes on with steel wool while in the drill press. If the exisitng finish is hard, it is usually easier to scrape it first.

For the tote, I haven't found an easier way than possibly scraping if its a hard finish, and sanding as you would any other piece of wood.

Finish the wood with boiled linseed oil (BLO). If its a really dry old piece, soak it in tyhe BLO overnight.

If you need to make a new tote.
If you need to fix a broken tote

For the adjustment knob, I wire brush the outside. I try the fine brush first, if its bad enough you'll need to start with the course, just be careful, you can take the ridges off. Then I chuck it in the drill press. I will add a piece of paper towel or rag between the jaws and the knob to protect it. Just tighten it hand tight. I then rip some pieces of sand paper about 1/4" by 1" and sand the inside. If its bad I'll start with 120 grit up to 500 grid.

Dead bolt Household hardware Door handle Musical instrument Circle


The brass nuts that holds the knob and tote on will go straight to the buffing wheel.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Engineering Gas Machine tool


Gas Machine Wood Human leg Audio equipment


Finger Gas Nickel Thumb Button


Cap Irons get wire brushed. I usually leave it with the brushed look. This Millers Falls was chromed, but it was shot, so I took it right off and left it. I painted this one on a Solar.

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


To get the red background, I will mask the outside ouline, paint it, let it dray and sand it with a sanding block. 220 grit, 320 grit, and 500 grit works for me.

Next flatten the sole. I don't have a piece of granite yet, so I'm still doing it on the table saw top. If it proves to be real bad, I'll start it on the belt sander, like I do the sides, but I always finish it on the flatter surface of the table saw. Turn the plane front and push in all directions to keep it flat and even.

Vehicle door Gas Automotive lighting Gadget Bumper


Purple Wood Audio equipment Flooring Gas


Wood Automotive lighting Flooring Rectangle Floor


Wire brush all the remaining screws and washers. I typically add a little axle grease before putting the screws back in.
Liquid Fluid Ingredient Food Electric blue


As I'm putting everything together I give it a coat of Fluid Film to keep the rust away.
Plane Block plane Wood Tin can Rebate plane


Or Wax it
Brown Wood Hardwood Metal Circle


And a few more "After" pictures.
Wood Flooring Hardwood Houseplant Foot


Helmet Hood Wood Input device Peripheral


For more information, check out the links on my refernece blog.

If you use this blog, don't forget to post the pictures for us to see.
 

Attachments

#80 ·
Plane Restoration, roll it together with a Millers Falls #10

So, I bought this bunch of planes in this pile which is shown with all the other weekend finds. Included at the bottom of the pile was this Millers Falls #10.

NOTE: This blog is not a suggestion to strip every plane and repaint. I actually would suggest otherwise if the japanning is in reasonable condition. Some are not savable and I don't like tools that look terrible. If you can save it, I'd recommend that. If not, strip it.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Wood Shoulder plane


I figured since this plane needed almost anything a plane restore could need, I would expand on it a bit and talk about my methodology for metal bench plane restoration, because when I pulled it from the pile it looked like this.

Wood Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Floor Flooring


Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content
Brown Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood


First i should note that you may find the occasional picture from another plane restore. I'm not trying to trick anyone, just get the details in and I can't guarantee i have all the pictures I need from the Millers Falls #10. Most of my planes are Stanleys, but I have to admit I have a sort of soft spot for the good Millers Falls planes. Maybe its because they are the underdog, or maybe its the brighter shinier metal that I usually have to strip because its flaking away, either way, here we go.

First I take it all apart and put the parts in a plastic container. That to keep all the parts together as best as i can. I tend to have multiple projects happening in my shop, and since I don't do this for a living, its possible i don't get back for a few days or a week. I don't want to have to remember where I put the parts. I then stand for a minute to contemplate what to start on first. The decisions are usually based on mood more than a real process.
Wood Tool Hand tool Art Metal


Lets talk about the japanning. I'm a firm believer in leaving the japanning on an older plane if its reasonable. It could increase the value of the plane, but a lot of the planes I find the japanning is shot. Determining what to do next will take some trial and error if you've never done it, but here is what I use.

If you are just looking for clean up, what this http://lumberjocks.com/replies/612946
If you just want a good tune up, try this.

If your not going to repaint, its a good idea to give the japanned areas a couple of coats of shellac. This will bring back a bit of the luster and help protect both the japanning and any bare metal where the japanning is gone. If you don't like shellac, a good waxing will do as well.

Electrolysis. Its a a great process and will get rid of the rust, or at least make it easy to brush off. I have used it and I will continue to use it at times. The draw backs are this. It takes a little time. You need to get it set up and it typically takes over night for most planes. You need a plastic container big enough for the piece your de-rusting and you need a battery charger. I will guarantee once you've used it you will continue if you plan to do this often. See Al's blog for further instructions.
Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Packing materials


Evapo-rust. Sold at some Tractor Supply's and internet sites. Its $20 a gallon so its more expensive than electrolysis. A gallon will do a quit a few plane and other tools though. Just set the piece in it and let it set over night. Again the rust will either wipe off or wire brush right off the next day. I wire brush my parts first, just to make the evapo-rust last longer and try to keep it cleaner.
Liquid Fluid Automotive care Bottle cap Automotive tire


To use evapo-rust, you can use a plastic tote like the electrolysis, or I made an aluminum tray out of flashing material. Its narrower so it takes less to cover the plane. I can also tilt it in one direction so its deeper on one end.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE. MAKE SURE THE WHOLE PIECE IS COVERED. EVAPO-RUST WILL LEAVE AN ETCH MARK AT THE WATER LEVEL THAT WILL NOT EASILY COME OUT!

Wood Pink Material property Magenta Gas


I also made a wire basket for the smaller parts.

Insect Wood Pest Pollinator Hardwood


This is what the Millers Falls looked like when it came out of the evapo-rust. I had hopes I could save the japanning, but there was to much rust under the japanning that I didn't see until it was lifted.

Wood Tool Composite material Hardwood Metal


I knew it needed to be painted, so lets break out the sand blaster.

Sand Blasting. My favorite for planes that you know you need to paint. I bought a $30 sand blasting gun at amazon.com and haven't looked back. Again, I try to leave the japanning if I can, but if it needs painting this is the way to go. Screened play sand will work just fine, but I bought some aluminum oxide blasting grit which works a little better. Don't be afraid to stick with the play sand for a while. Its does a fine job. The draw back of sand blasting is you need a decent air compressor.

EDIT: I've noticed recently the sand blasting guns are even cheaper at Amazon.

Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Composite material


I also created a small blasting cabinet. You can re-use the media and it keeps it contained. Plus it doesn't get all over my shop.
Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Wood stain


Note most of it is plastic except for a piece of glass in the front. That's so its easier to wipe off and see through. The bottom is open so I set it on my bench on a flat piece of steel (plywood would work too) to catch the sand. Note the 2 hand holes in the front. What you can not see is the top. I have 2 holes drilled in a piece of plywood. One is for the air hose. The other is for a shop vac. When using play sand for media, it helps to suck the dust out so you can see.

It takes me 30-40 minute to setup and clean a base using the Sand Blaster. Obviously doing 2 or 3 at once is quicker.

Wood Tool Hardwood Composite material Rebate plane


Edit 7-2013. Another Sandblasting upgrade. It works better than I anticipated. I like it a lot. Its highly recommended.

Automotive tire Wood Audio equipment Automotive lighting Motor vehicle


Take a look at my #8c restore for more picture of before and after sandblasting.

Edit 7-2013

Citric Acid. I finally ordered some citric acid to try out. This stuff is great. I had trouble finding it local, so I finally ordered it from Amazon. I started with a #1 bag, but it seems like even that small bag will go a long way. Just add water and some powder. I haven't used it enough to know how much exactly, but I added about 1/4 cup to my 24" window box liner and I've done several planes in it so far. I had a broken plane and wanted to see what happened if I left it soak to long, so I stuck it in on sunday, took it out the next Saturday. I had a nice rust free plane with no adverse affect. I highly recommend this stuff.

Note the citric acid won't strip the japanning, so it can be used like evapo-rust for de-rusting the planes you find that you'll be saving the existing japanning. I love finding those!!

The old fashion way. Wire brushes and scrapers and screw drivers and sand paper and whatever else you have to work the stuff off. This is the hardest way, but if you plan to only do one or two, it may be your choice.

Paint Stripper. Paint stripper will work if added to "the old fashion way" above. It will usually take a few applications. I have used it but for me its messy and time consuming. Again, if you are only going to do a few planes, it may a choice.

Now lets move on to the frog
Next you will want to wire brush the frog so you can paint them together. I don't have a picture wire brushing the frog, but you will want a course and a fine wire brush like this one:

Motor vehicle Wood Wheel Automotive tire Machine tool


There is usually a little hand work on the frog as well. I have some larger and smaller wire brushes I use. Use what ever works for you. I also have a collection of wire brushes for the drill. I will use whatever works.

Wood Automotive tire Table Flooring Hardwood


Of course If your sandblasting the sole, the frog can be easily sandblasted as well.

It's typically easier on the frog to tape off the areas to not be painted. If the base hasn't been cleaned up I don't bother, but If I have the rest of the base complete, I'll mask it with painter tape.

Next paint it. Wipe it down with mineral spirits or paint thinner to get all the dust off it. I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint I find the Dupli-Color to be a little closer to the original finish. What I like about the Dupli-Color Engine Enamel is you re-coat after 10 minutes. I usually let it sit for 15 minutes and add a coat. I will give it 4 or 5 coats. VERY IMPORTANT Note you can not re coat if you wait longer than about 1 hour though. If it starts to set up the fresh paint will cause the semi dry paint to peel and curl up. If you need to repaint wait 7 days as described on the can.

NOTE: If you want to try traditional japanning, here is a very very good series, http://lumberjocks.com/JayT/blog/series/5621

Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Tire Road surface


I try to paint the frog and base together just to save time.

I may take the fork off if it comes apart easily. I paint the fork as well.

Gesture Toy Finger Wood Thumb

Automotive lighting Gas Eyewear Automotive mirror Camera


Next Polish the sides of the base. I use a belt sander if they need it, but have done a few by hand sanding. I find most can be cleaned up well enough with the wire wheel. It really depends on how much shine you're looking to get. I like the flat luster from the wire wheel.

Camera accessory Cameras & optics Audio equipment Film camera Reflex camera


Flatten the frog. File the frog flat. It really doesn't matter if you do this before or after painting. I usually wind up doing it after. I lock it in a vise and hold the file flat while filing it. It doesn't need to be perfect. Some like to polish this as well, but its not really necessary.

Hand Wood Finger Bumper Thumb


Check and fix the cap iron. First thing I do is wire brush it. It should be re-rusted by now with whatever you decided, or you can just wire brush it. I find I will wire brush it first, then throw it in the evapo-rust if It still needs a little help. You can also touch it to a belt sander to shine it up a bit if needed. I go into more detail here.

Sharpen it After cleaning up the iron (just like the cap iron) you'll need to sharpen it. How I go about that process is described here.

Now for the wood. I chuck the knob in the drill press.

Wood Floor Flooring Lamp Gas


I use a bolt with a 1/4" Philips head that's been ground down slightly so it fits inside the knob where the brass nut goes. Tighten it down with a washer and chuck it in the drill press. Only chuck it hand tight so you don't trash the threads.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Gas


Sand it with 60 grit if it still has a varnish or hard finish. then up through 500 grit. If it had an oil finish I'll start with 220 grit. First few coats of BLO goes on with steel wool while in the drill press. If the exisitng finish is hard, it is usually easier to scrape it first.

For the tote, I haven't found an easier way than possibly scraping if its a hard finish, and sanding as you would any other piece of wood.

Finish the wood with boiled linseed oil (BLO). If its a really dry old piece, soak it in tyhe BLO overnight.

If you need to make a new tote.
If you need to fix a broken tote

For the adjustment knob, I wire brush the outside. I try the fine brush first, if its bad enough you'll need to start with the course, just be careful, you can take the ridges off. Then I chuck it in the drill press. I will add a piece of paper towel or rag between the jaws and the knob to protect it. Just tighten it hand tight. I then rip some pieces of sand paper about 1/4" by 1" and sand the inside. If its bad I'll start with 120 grit up to 500 grid.

Dead bolt Household hardware Door handle Musical instrument Circle


The brass nuts that holds the knob and tote on will go straight to the buffing wheel.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Engineering Gas Machine tool


Gas Machine Wood Human leg Audio equipment


Finger Gas Nickel Thumb Button


Cap Irons get wire brushed. I usually leave it with the brushed look. This Millers Falls was chromed, but it was shot, so I took it right off and left it. I painted this one on a Solar.

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Flooring


To get the red background, I will mask the outside ouline, paint it, let it dray and sand it with a sanding block. 220 grit, 320 grit, and 500 grit works for me.

Next flatten the sole. I don't have a piece of granite yet, so I'm still doing it on the table saw top. If it proves to be real bad, I'll start it on the belt sander, like I do the sides, but I always finish it on the flatter surface of the table saw. Turn the plane front and push in all directions to keep it flat and even.

Vehicle door Gas Automotive lighting Gadget Bumper


Purple Wood Audio equipment Flooring Gas


Wood Automotive lighting Flooring Rectangle Floor


Wire brush all the remaining screws and washers. I typically add a little axle grease before putting the screws back in.
Liquid Fluid Ingredient Food Electric blue


As I'm putting everything together I give it a coat of Fluid Film to keep the rust away.
Plane Block plane Wood Tin can Rebate plane


Or Wax it
Brown Wood Hardwood Metal Circle


And a few more "After" pictures.
Wood Flooring Hardwood Houseplant Foot


Helmet Hood Wood Input device Peripheral


For more information, check out the links on my refernece blog.

If you use this blog, don't forget to post the pictures for us to see.
Beautiful work Don !! well done!
 

Attachments

#110 ·
Sharpening past the DMT.

I decided to see if I could improve on my dmt sharpness. The good news, I did. The bad news, I did. It's not a tremendous amount, and not enough to make me go back to waterstones (yet), but I will leave my hard arkansas on the bench from now on.

This is my normal sharpening routine.
1. Hollow grind
2. Hit the edge (do it more and more by hand) on th 3 micron DMT
3. Strop the back
4. Hit the 3 micron DMT again.

So here is with just the 3 micron dmt. Back flatten to the DMT well

EDIT: This first picture is what I started with. It hasn't been flatten yet (at least not by me)






Polishing the back on the felt wheel with green compound and sharpening with the hard arkansas stone ( I saw a slight difference from the dmt to the arkansas)


Same sequence….




I did this with 4 different hand planes. The 2 shown, the Stanley #18, The sargent 710, and a Bedrock 604 and a Stanley 60 1/2.

All showed a subtle difference. The biggest difference was with the polishing of the back. Sharpening the bevel was barley distinguishable but I could see a slight difference in the resistance.

If, from the dmt, you polished the back with the felt, then sharpened with the dmt, the difference would be almost unnoticeable from sharpening with the arkansas. I'd have to do it a few more times to really know for sure, but my gut tells me the arkasas would have a slight edge.
 

Attachments

#111 ·
Sharpening past the DMT.

I decided to see if I could improve on my dmt sharpness. The good news, I did. The bad news, I did. It's not a tremendous amount, and not enough to make me go back to waterstones (yet), but I will leave my hard arkansas on the bench from now on.

This is my normal sharpening routine.
1. Hollow grind
2. Hit the edge (do it more and more by hand) on th 3 micron DMT
3. Strop the back
4. Hit the 3 micron DMT again.

So here is with just the 3 micron dmt. Back flatten to the DMT well

EDIT: This first picture is what I started with. It hasn't been flatten yet (at least not by me)
Wood Tool Rectangle Hand tool Wood stain


Brown Handwriting Wood Rectangle Font


Food Helmet Eggplant Ingredient Wood


Polishing the back on the felt wheel with green compound and sharpening with the hard arkansas stone ( I saw a slight difference from the dmt to the arkansas)
Plane Wood Metal Automotive exterior Hardwood


Same sequence….
Wood Hand tool Gas Metal Hardwood


Wood Handwriting Natural material Cuisine Ingredient


I did this with 4 different hand planes. The 2 shown, the Stanley #18, The sargent 710, and a Bedrock 604 and a Stanley 60 1/2.

All showed a subtle difference. The biggest difference was with the polishing of the back. Sharpening the bevel was barley distinguishable but I could see a slight difference in the resistance.

If, from the dmt, you polished the back with the felt, then sharpened with the dmt, the difference would be almost unnoticeable from sharpening with the arkansas. I'd have to do it a few more times to really know for sure, but my gut tells me the arkasas would have a slight edge.
I think you might get a better result (IMHO) if you worked on flattening the back of the blade on your DMT or Arkansas stone first to provide a good reference point for honing the bevel. From your pictures it doesn't look as if the back of the blade has had a lot of attention paid to it to ensure that it is flat. Is there a danger that stropping the back of the blade could introduce a hollow? Apologies if I am mis-reading anything.
Jim
 

Attachments

#128 ·
Tuning it up Bench plane style

I brought this magnificent (note the dripping sarcasm) piece of machinery home with me during one of my flea market outings. This is a late model Stanley #4. Its painted Blue, made in the US, has a painted cap, a shorter iron than vintage, and no toe on the tote. The knob and tote is painted black, it has an aluminum frog and a pretty cheezy lateral adjuster.

Now….why anyone but someone with a sickness for hand planes like me would buy this plane is a little beyond my understanding, unless it was given to you or almost given to you. A note, I'd rather have one of these than any handyman though, and I'd put them in a pretty close running with a Defiance line hand plane. Again, the Defiance can be made to work well pretty consistently, but it takes a little more love than a Stanley Bailey vintage or equivalent.

For clean up see http://lumberjocks.com/replies/612946

So the following is some advice on how to make almost any plane work well. I'll try to separate out my experience in the differences between these and vintage plane.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Shoe


If your plane needs a full restoration, as in stripping, painting, and parts replaced, go to either my restoration blog , Making a tote blog, turning a knob blog, or a list of possible places to find parts.

Sharpen it
So here is what you do. First sharpen it. See parts 7 and 10 It doesn't matter what your taste in sharpening is as long as it works for you. It MUST be sharp.

Polish the end of the cap iron
Polish the end of the cap iron This is more important than many people think. It helps with the breaking of the chip.

Check and fix the cap iron if needed. The cap iron must have good contatact with the iron. Any gap at all will collect chips, and clog. Make sure its clean and tight. It should be re-rusted by now with whatever you decided (if it needed it), or you can just wire brush it. I go into more detail here.

Flatten the frog. File the frog flat. I lock it in a vise and hold the file flat while filing it. It doesn't need to be perfect. Some like to polish this as well, but its not really necessary.

Hand Wood Finger Bumper Thumb




here is the aluminum frog flattened. The aluminum actually took a lot to flatten, but flatten quickly because …... well,.......its aluminum. I'm also not thrilled with the amount of contact area on the Blue frog, but in the end, it did work reasonably well.

Musical instrument Guitar accessory Musical instrument accessory String instrument accessory Wood


Check the frog seating
Also check the frog seating. I very seldom have to do this on a vintage plane, but once in a while one does not seat properly. You can use valve grinding compound and usually it doesn't take much. In my latest restore I used a block of wood and sand paper.

Automotive lighting Sleeve Purple Motor vehicle Denim


Water Wood Paint Grey Rectangle


The best way to tell if it needs seating is as your tightening the screws, or just force the frog down on the seat. You should feel no rocking. You can also use some machinist blue to ensure you're getting good contact with the two parts.

Next flatten the sole. Use a piece of granite or a table saw top. If it proves to be real bad, I'll start it on the belt sander, like I do the sides, but I always finish it on the flatter surface of the table saw. Turn the plane front and push in all directions to keep it flat and even.

For longer planes, use sand paper from a role or cut a belt for the task.

Note, I've found the older the plane, the less flattening it'll need. You'd think just the opposite would be true with advancements in manufacturing, but anything made after the 60's usually makes it to the belt sander. The Blue stanley took longer than most I've ever done.

Vehicle door Gas Automotive lighting Gadget Bumper


Purple Wood Audio equipment Flooring Gas


Wood Automotive lighting Flooring Rectangle Floor


As I'm putting everything together I give it a coat of Fluid Film to keep the rust away.
Plane Block plane Wood Tin can Rebate plane


Or Wax it
Brown Wood Hardwood Metal Circle


The knob and Tote

You will decide how much the knob and tote needs but here are a few tricks to help.

I chuck the knob in the drill press.

Wood Floor Flooring Lamp Gas


Grind the head so it fits in the hole (were possible). Put a washer on the bottom of the knob.



I use a bolt with a 1/4" Philips head that's been ground down slightly so it fits inside the knob where the brass nut goes. Tighten it down with a washer and chuck it in the drill press. Only chuck it hand tight so you don't trash the threads.



Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Gas


Sand it with 60 grit if it still has a varnish or hard finish. then up through 500 (or more if desired) grit. If it had an oil finish I'll start with 220 grit. First few coats of BLO goes on with steel wool while in the drill press. If the existing finish is hard, it is usually easier to scrape it first.

This also helps with waxing. You can spin it fast enough in a drill press to heat the wax.

For the tote, I haven't found an easier way than possibly scraping if its a hard finish, and sanding as you would any other piece of wood.

Finish the wood with boiled linseed oil (BLO). If its a really dry old piece, soak it in the BLO overnight.

Troubleshooting.

If the mouth is to wide, its pretty hard to fix. You can slide the frog ahead just so far. If its still to wide, you have a couple of options.
1. Turn the plane into a jack
2. Buy a thicker iron.
3. Make it a paper weight.

I've test with shimming and haven't had a whole lot of luck.

Chatter
1. make sure its sharp
2. make sure your not taking to big of a bite. Thin down the shavings.
3. check the frog for both flatness, make sure the screws are tight, and make sure its seating well.
4. Don't go buy a thicker iron thinking it will fix it.

Then enjoy the results
Plane Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Hand tool Wood


I hope it helps and thanks for stopping by.

dw
 

Attachments

#129 ·
Tuning it up Bench plane style

I brought this magnificent (note the dripping sarcasm) piece of machinery home with me during one of my flea market outings. This is a late model Stanley #4. Its painted Blue, made in the US, has a painted cap, a shorter iron than vintage, and no toe on the tote. The knob and tote is painted black, it has an aluminum frog and a pretty cheezy lateral adjuster.

Now….why anyone but someone with a sickness for hand planes like me would buy this plane is a little beyond my understanding, unless it was given to you or almost given to you. A note, I'd rather have one of these than any handyman though, and I'd put them in a pretty close running with a Defiance line hand plane. Again, the Defiance can be made to work well pretty consistently, but it takes a little more love than a Stanley Bailey vintage or equivalent.

For clean up see http://lumberjocks.com/replies/612946

So the following is some advice on how to make almost any plane work well. I'll try to separate out my experience in the differences between these and vintage plane.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Shoe


If your plane needs a full restoration, as in stripping, painting, and parts replaced, go to either my restoration blog , Making a tote blog, turning a knob blog, or a list of possible places to find parts.

Sharpen it
So here is what you do. First sharpen it. See parts 7 and 10 It doesn't matter what your taste in sharpening is as long as it works for you. It MUST be sharp.

Polish the end of the cap iron
Polish the end of the cap iron This is more important than many people think. It helps with the breaking of the chip.

Check and fix the cap iron if needed. The cap iron must have good contatact with the iron. Any gap at all will collect chips, and clog. Make sure its clean and tight. It should be re-rusted by now with whatever you decided (if it needed it), or you can just wire brush it. I go into more detail here.

Flatten the frog. File the frog flat. I lock it in a vise and hold the file flat while filing it. It doesn't need to be perfect. Some like to polish this as well, but its not really necessary.

Hand Wood Finger Bumper Thumb




here is the aluminum frog flattened. The aluminum actually took a lot to flatten, but flatten quickly because …... well,.......its aluminum. I'm also not thrilled with the amount of contact area on the Blue frog, but in the end, it did work reasonably well.

Musical instrument Guitar accessory Musical instrument accessory String instrument accessory Wood


Check the frog seating
Also check the frog seating. I very seldom have to do this on a vintage plane, but once in a while one does not seat properly. You can use valve grinding compound and usually it doesn't take much. In my latest restore I used a block of wood and sand paper.

Automotive lighting Sleeve Purple Motor vehicle Denim


Water Wood Paint Grey Rectangle


The best way to tell if it needs seating is as your tightening the screws, or just force the frog down on the seat. You should feel no rocking. You can also use some machinist blue to ensure you're getting good contact with the two parts.

Next flatten the sole. Use a piece of granite or a table saw top. If it proves to be real bad, I'll start it on the belt sander, like I do the sides, but I always finish it on the flatter surface of the table saw. Turn the plane front and push in all directions to keep it flat and even.

For longer planes, use sand paper from a role or cut a belt for the task.

Note, I've found the older the plane, the less flattening it'll need. You'd think just the opposite would be true with advancements in manufacturing, but anything made after the 60's usually makes it to the belt sander. The Blue stanley took longer than most I've ever done.

Vehicle door Gas Automotive lighting Gadget Bumper


Purple Wood Audio equipment Flooring Gas


Wood Automotive lighting Flooring Rectangle Floor


As I'm putting everything together I give it a coat of Fluid Film to keep the rust away.
Plane Block plane Wood Tin can Rebate plane


Or Wax it
Brown Wood Hardwood Metal Circle


The knob and Tote

You will decide how much the knob and tote needs but here are a few tricks to help.

I chuck the knob in the drill press.

Wood Floor Flooring Lamp Gas


Grind the head so it fits in the hole (were possible). Put a washer on the bottom of the knob.



I use a bolt with a 1/4" Philips head that's been ground down slightly so it fits inside the knob where the brass nut goes. Tighten it down with a washer and chuck it in the drill press. Only chuck it hand tight so you don't trash the threads.



Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Gas


Sand it with 60 grit if it still has a varnish or hard finish. then up through 500 (or more if desired) grit. If it had an oil finish I'll start with 220 grit. First few coats of BLO goes on with steel wool while in the drill press. If the existing finish is hard, it is usually easier to scrape it first.

This also helps with waxing. You can spin it fast enough in a drill press to heat the wax.

For the tote, I haven't found an easier way than possibly scraping if its a hard finish, and sanding as you would any other piece of wood.

Finish the wood with boiled linseed oil (BLO). If its a really dry old piece, soak it in the BLO overnight.

Troubleshooting.

If the mouth is to wide, its pretty hard to fix. You can slide the frog ahead just so far. If its still to wide, you have a couple of options.
1. Turn the plane into a jack
2. Buy a thicker iron.
3. Make it a paper weight.

I've test with shimming and haven't had a whole lot of luck.

Chatter
1. make sure its sharp
2. make sure your not taking to big of a bite. Thin down the shavings.
3. check the frog for both flatness, make sure the screws are tight, and make sure its seating well.
4. Don't go buy a thicker iron thinking it will fix it.

Then enjoy the results
Plane Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Hand tool Wood


I hope it helps and thanks for stopping by.

dw
They might be "just some planes restored" to you Don, but they're works of art to the rest of us.
 

Attachments

#142 ·
How to repair a Bench plane knob with a base blow out.

A pretty common break on a bench plane is the bottom of the knob being blown out. There typically isn't enough surface area to glue a piece back on, so here is an alternative.

I show the repair done with a contrasting wood, but it can be matched if you'd prefer.



.


Here is how I repair them.


.

 
#150 ·
To Restore a hand plane or to not restore a hand plane.

I've always been a maker/restorer of tools and other things. My mother was sure I'd burn down the cow barn heat treating my new knives, or later bluing the rifles I was restoring. Then a few years ago, the hand plane collecting bug bit and bit hard. My wife was constantly dragging (and I mean kicking and screaming all the way) to antique shops. After a while though, I could hear the old tools crying for help. I had a few hand planes and hand saws and knew how to use them (or thought I did) but now they took on a new life. Pretty soon they started following me home in droves.

Wood Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Floor Flooring


To read the rest, visit my website........
 

Attachments

#151 ·
To Restore a hand plane or to not restore a hand plane.

I've always been a maker/restorer of tools and other things. My mother was sure I'd burn down the cow barn heat treating my new knives, or later bluing the rifles I was restoring. Then a few years ago, the hand plane collecting bug bit and bit hard. My wife was constantly dragging (and I mean kicking and screaming all the way) to antique shops. After a while though, I could hear the old tools crying for help. I had a few hand planes and hand saws and knew how to use them (or thought I did) but now they took on a new life. Pretty soon they started following me home in droves.

Wood Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Floor Flooring


To read the rest, visit my website........
That sandpaper device you made from a broken part certainly gives me an inspiration!!!!

Just because it looks like it belonged to Jacques Cousteau and he used it under water all that metal can clean up nicely.
 

Attachments

#164 ·
Restoring a Sargent Transitional

For those interested in another Transitional restore series.

http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/restoring-the-sargent-transitional-part-1-2/

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Plane Block plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Jack plane
Beautiful restore Don. I can only hope that my capabilities will be as good as yours someday.
I just finished restoring a Stanley #4 WWII era. Picked it up on eBay for cheap money. Had a lot of surface rust. Once I got the surface rust off it started to look pretty nice. Lapped the sole (very little needed) and polished it so it's nice and smooth. Sharpened and honed the iron as well as flattening the back and she cuts like a dream. I was going to add it to my small collection of old planes but this one feels and cuts so nice that I am making it my go-to #4 smoother. I have a Veritas L/A smoother that I was using but the #4 is sooooo much smoother to use.
 

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