So making the infill wasn’t so bad. Its so much easier when make a base. When you make the base, its square and true, unlike the inside of the cast vintage planes, so making and addind the base is much easier.
I choose walnut for this, and after some help from my friend over on the HPOYD thread, I decided to ebonize it.
Most of this is just normal woodworking, at least for the first part.
And marking and laying it out,
I decided to make this one in 1 piece. I’m not sure it’s really important and the others I didn’t. I don’t see much difference in the outcome. I used the router to cut it out.
I drilled the center, cut it with a scroll saw and shaped it with some rasps and files.
constant fitting to ensure it was going right.
Once it was formed and sanded, It was time to darken it. I had some issues with the ebonozing. I took some white vinegar and stuck some steel wool in it. After several days nothing had happened. I made sure i was using real steel wool. After some reading and some help from the guys over on the HPOYD thread, I threw some rusty nails in it and put the heat gun to it. If your doing this it is advisable to keep the cap loose and be in a well ventilated area.
I then gave it several coats of dark walnut danish oil.
Its not ready, but lets try it out anyhow.
ahhh, some sweet shavings
Now to fasten it in. I drilled the side hole just a little smaller than some #12 brass screws, and used a reamer to give it a slight taper, along with a countersink to give the holes a little countersink. I then drove the screws as tight as I could into the countersink. Note, you need slotted screws for this. With Philips head screws, the Philips cut out goes to far down into the shaft.
I then took the grinder to the screws, sanded the sides with my ROS, from 80 grit up through 320, and buffed it out.
The the knob and tote got a couple coats of wipe on poly.
I also realized I didn’t take any pictures of making the cap iron or lever cap, so next plane for sure.
The cap iron is Low-Carbon Steel Rectangular Bar, 1/8” Thick, 2” Width, 2’ Length, drilled and tapped, given a slight bend into the iron, the end ground at an angle and polished up.
Cap screws $3
Brass screws, $6
about 1 BF of walnut. cost ?
Bridge City close out knurled adjuster $5.50
Hock Iron $50
-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com