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166K views 355 replies 91 participants last post by  AnthonyReed 
#1 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
 

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#2 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
Electrolytic? I tried elbow grease and steel wool on a jointing plane that was my grandfathers… that got rid of some rust but certainly not as shiny as yours! Please explain your electrolytic process - I`m very interested!
 

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#3 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
The best advice I can give is google "plane restoration electrolysis". Also see http://lumberjocks.com/David/blog/2396.
 

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#4 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
The #6 is the star of my shop; reach for it probably 2nd only to the #7. There are excellent primers on electrolysis (which is what I use). Mine's of a bucket, rebar, and trickle charger; but I'll let SBO (OP) explain his process sans hijack. I prefer it to elbow grease for sure!
 

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#5 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
Well done.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
I am with Al, the #6 is one of if not my favorite plane. I don't even know why I like it so much, I just do

Great job on the plane. I will suggest one thing, I noticed on both of the planes you posted so far that when you paint them you paint the top ledge where the outside meets the inside. In my opinion it looks better to keep that polished steel to match the outside. That part of the plane didn't originally have japanning either. Its almost impossible to tape that top part off so I paint it but once the paint is dry I just take a razor blade and scrap the paint right off the top. I also sand and polish the top before I paint so that no other work is required after I scrape the paint off with the razor blade. It looks fine black but I think the polished metal on the top really brings it all together.
 

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#7 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
So, i made a conscious decision to leave that top edge black, wondering if it was the right choice. First thing this morning i scrapped and buffed it on the #6 to see if your were right. I know youré right about it not being originally black. From now on it'll be the original way. You were right Dan.
 

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#8 ·
My #6 Restore.

I found this Stanley #6 in a flee market. I paid a whopping $10 for it. This is my first restore blog, but not my first plane restore. I've learned a little, and need to learn a lot more. So here it was:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Rebate plane Tool


Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Antique tool


I haven't totally figured out my way of doing all of this, so sometimes I try several different ways. To flatten the sole, I start with sandpaper on my table saw top. If it looks like its going to take a lot, I move to the Ryobi sander, then back to finish on the table saw.

To get rid of the rust, I tried vinegar. That works great on some things, but its to inconsistent. Electrolytic seems to work but usually takes over night. I've also used wire brushing and rust and paint stripper to some success.

I filed the frog flat, but usually don't worry about getting it polished, just flat. Sharpen the blade and cap. I give the sides of the bottom, the iron, cap, and adjusting screw a coat of clear lacquer. The tote and knob gets sanded and 3 cotes of shellac.

Table Drinkware Wood Bottle Fluid


All screws get a good shot from a fine wire brush.
Here is what it looks like today:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Material property Gas Metal Fashion accessory


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Wood


Note the handle was missing a piece, so I added a piece of wenge. I didn't have a piece of rosewood.

To polish the adjustment screw I chuck it in the drill press. I will usually progress grits from 100, 180, 220, 320, 500, 600, 800, and 2000 to give it a little shine.

I'll go into more details in future articles. I just ordered a sandblaster, so I'll see how that works. I'm working on a #8 I just got off ebay now, but may not get back to it for a while.

Back to working on the drawers for my bench.

dw
The first couple planes that I repainted I had left the tops black also. I did my 3rd one leaving the top metal and after that I went back to the first two and took the black off… It didn't look bad at all black but it just looks a little better meshed with the steel top.
 

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#9 ·
Millers Falls #18 a prelude to the #6

So, I wanted a #6 but didn't want to spend much on it. I bid $15 on this Millers Falls on ebay. My thought was to use it until I found a Stanley #6 and resell it, hopefully for a profit from the restore. Well you probably already know I found an even cheaper Stanley #6, but I've had this Millers Falls 18 for a while now. I love this plane. The #6 is to new to know how it compares, but this Millers Falls has found a place in my collection. It just seems to hang very nicely.

So for $15 plus another $15 to ship it, here is what I received.
Wood Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Art Metal


Sleeve Wood Artifact Art Armour


So I went through the routine. I flatten the sole, polished the parts, repainted, sanded, re-shellac'ed, sharpened and here you have it.

Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Scrub plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Jack plane Wood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Metal Varnish


Wood Rectangle Gadget Hardwood Wood stain


Hood Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas


To restore the japanning I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint. I've read in several other post that it most closely matches the original finish.

The lever cap was wire brushed and as I typically do, I sanded the rosewood and gave the tote and knob a few coats of shellac.

dw
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Millers Falls #18 a prelude to the #6

So, I wanted a #6 but didn't want to spend much on it. I bid $15 on this Millers Falls on ebay. My thought was to use it until I found a Stanley #6 and resell it, hopefully for a profit from the restore. Well you probably already know I found an even cheaper Stanley #6, but I've had this Millers Falls 18 for a while now. I love this plane. The #6 is to new to know how it compares, but this Millers Falls has found a place in my collection. It just seems to hang very nicely.

So for $15 plus another $15 to ship it, here is what I received.
Wood Smoothing plane Shoulder plane Art Metal


Sleeve Wood Artifact Art Armour


So I went through the routine. I flatten the sole, polished the parts, repainted, sanded, re-shellac'ed, sharpened and here you have it.

Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Scrub plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Jack plane Wood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Metal Varnish


Wood Rectangle Gadget Hardwood Wood stain


Hood Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas


To restore the japanning I use Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint. I've read in several other post that it most closely matches the original finish.

The lever cap was wire brushed and as I typically do, I sanded the rosewood and gave the tote and knob a few coats of shellac.

dw
Nice restore. Be interested to see what you think of this compared to your #6.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Stanley A5

I don't have any "before" pictures of this one. It was in pretty rough shape, but cleaned up pretty easy. It works pretty well and I find myself reaching for it more than I anticipated. Someday I'd like to pick up the A4 and A6 as well, but they are a bit pricey and I have several #4's and #6's. It seems Patrick Leach didn't seem to care for these aluminum versions, but this one stays in my collection.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Stanley A5

I don't have any "before" pictures of this one. It was in pretty rough shape, but cleaned up pretty easy. It works pretty well and I find myself reaching for it more than I anticipated. Someday I'd like to pick up the A4 and A6 as well, but they are a bit pricey and I have several #4's and #6's. It seems Patrick Leach didn't seem to care for these aluminum versions, but this one stays in my collection.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane
Nice restore. I am guessing that is pretty light.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
My Stanley #8

Well, my sand blaster finally arrived and I managed to find some "shop" time to see how it worked. The plan was to test it out on the Stanley #8 I managed to win off of eBay. I paid about $28 for this, so I am hoping for the best.

Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Composite material


Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Scrub plane Wood


Wood Art Human leg Sandal Metal


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Scrub plane Plane Wood Jack plane Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Gas Composite material


Grey Artifact Wood Font Rectangle


Wood Wood stain Gas Composite material Metal


Wood Wood stain Gas Composite material Metal


Wood Gas Rectangle Household hardware Composite material


I setup a temporary booth for the sandblaster.
Hood Electrical wiring Gas Cable Plastic


And then off to the sandblasting. I used screened play sand. It worked fairly well. I had occasional clogs, but nothing that was too bad. It would be interesting to know if black buety or some other real sandblasting media would work better.
This is the results:
Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Composite material


Wood Bumper Wood stain Automotive exterior Hardwood


Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Table


I then hit it with the wire brush to clean the final tough spots.
Motor vehicle Wood Wheel Automotive tire Machine tool


This resulted in this
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Musical instrument accessory

Wood Rectangle Gas Bumper Gadget

Wood Rectangle Composite material Metal Gun accessory

Rectangle Wood Gas Composite material Wood stain


So now on to painting. Again I use Dupli-color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black. I usually re coat with Gloss about three or four times waiting about 20-25mins between each coat.
Note: when paint dry's it shrinks some so what you see is not what you get. Make sure your painting on a near level surface as paint will run and sag as it's so thick.
You should also note you cannot re coat if you wait longer than about 1 hour. If it starts to set up the fresh paint will cause the semi dry paint to peel and curl up. If you need to repaint the can says wait 7 days.
I flatten the sole using my typical method of setting sandpaper on the table saw top.
I flatten the frog to make sure it has good contact with the iron.
I had already sharpened it.
I sanded and polished the sides.

This is the final results:
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Gas Composite material

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Bumper Knife

Wood Composite material Bumper Bicycle part Hardwood

Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Wood

Tableware Wood Table Hardwood Gas

Tool Wood Bumper Hand tool Blade

Wood Tool Bumper Automotive exterior Hardwood

Food Finger Staple food Recipe Wood


Hope it helps
dw
 

Attachments

#21 ·
My Stanley #8

Well, my sand blaster finally arrived and I managed to find some "shop" time to see how it worked. The plan was to test it out on the Stanley #8 I managed to win off of eBay. I paid about $28 for this, so I am hoping for the best.

Wood Gas Hardwood Machine Composite material


Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Scrub plane Wood


Wood Art Human leg Sandal Metal


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Scrub plane Plane Wood Jack plane Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Gas Composite material


Grey Artifact Wood Font Rectangle


Wood Wood stain Gas Composite material Metal


Wood Wood stain Gas Composite material Metal


Wood Gas Rectangle Household hardware Composite material


I setup a temporary booth for the sandblaster.
Hood Electrical wiring Gas Cable Plastic


And then off to the sandblasting. I used screened play sand. It worked fairly well. I had occasional clogs, but nothing that was too bad. It would be interesting to know if black buety or some other real sandblasting media would work better.
This is the results:
Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Composite material


Wood Bumper Wood stain Automotive exterior Hardwood


Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Table


I then hit it with the wire brush to clean the final tough spots.
Motor vehicle Wood Wheel Automotive tire Machine tool


This resulted in this
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Musical instrument accessory

Wood Rectangle Gas Bumper Gadget

Wood Rectangle Composite material Metal Gun accessory

Rectangle Wood Gas Composite material Wood stain


So now on to painting. Again I use Dupli-color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black. I usually re coat with Gloss about three or four times waiting about 20-25mins between each coat.
Note: when paint dry's it shrinks some so what you see is not what you get. Make sure your painting on a near level surface as paint will run and sag as it's so thick.
You should also note you cannot re coat if you wait longer than about 1 hour. If it starts to set up the fresh paint will cause the semi dry paint to peel and curl up. If you need to repaint the can says wait 7 days.
I flatten the sole using my typical method of setting sandpaper on the table saw top.
I flatten the frog to make sure it has good contact with the iron.
I had already sharpened it.
I sanded and polished the sides.

This is the final results:
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Gas Composite material

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Bumper Knife

Wood Composite material Bumper Bicycle part Hardwood

Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Wood

Tableware Wood Table Hardwood Gas

Tool Wood Bumper Hand tool Blade

Wood Tool Bumper Automotive exterior Hardwood

Food Finger Staple food Recipe Wood


Hope it helps
dw
very nice work!
 

Attachments

#35 ·
The #7

I've been searching for a #7 for a while now. I finally stumbled onto one in and antique shop that was within my acceptable price range. My wife and I was riding the bike through southern Vermont and stopped at this small shop. I wound up walking away with a nice #3 and a #7. How great is it to combine two pleasurable pass-times in one afternoon.

The nice thing about woodworking as a hobby, is you can work as inspiration strikes. Yesterday I was working on the drawers for my new (well not so new anymore) workbench, I had them glued up and set off to the side, when I just walked over to the plane rack (here's the plane rack. Note the #7 doesn't look so good.)
Hand tool Wood Snips Metalworking hand tool Tool


and grabbed the #7 to take a look. Inspiration struck and I was off to restore. This plane was actually in pretty good shape. The sole was flat, the blade had a nice hollow bevel, and the rust was very superficial. The jappaning was missing a bit more than I anticipated, so I decided to give it a coat of black after the good cleaning was complete.

The plane is actually worn more the any other plane I've bought. Not worn from abuse, but from use. I could tell it was used by a craftsman who liked his tools and maintained them well. As i said, the blade had a nice 25 degree hollow grind, which I left. The blade was 90 degrees but it has been sharpened many times. Only a fraction of its original glory remains. The handles took minimal sanding. The only spot that took the normal attention was the frog. It may have been flat, but the original machine marks were still very prevalent. I don't try to get this shiny and spotless, but I usually do take out the larger tool marks.

As I was working with this plane, I could envision an elderly gentleman gliding it across the workpiece. He touted a half smile, unwilling to allow the stiff joints of his aging limbs to prevent him from achieving his daily pleasures. His persistence and caring of this piece of equipment will allow me the same pleasures, with the same occasional stiffness and determination.

If only this plane could talk, it would have stories of pain and glory:
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane

Stories of caring then neglect:
Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Scrub plane Block plane

And a hope of a return to its former glory:
Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Toy


I've decided not to write through a step by step of this plane, but draw attention to the differences from my previous experiences you can read in this series. Each plane I restore, I learn a little. Not so much about the technical ways of how to perform each step, but of ways to make these planes my personal possessions.

Plane Smoothing plane Block plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Fir instance as I was sanding the knob and tote for this plane, I was thinking of the finish. When refinishing my rifle stocks, I always use an oil finish, either tung or linseed oil. I decided to try the boiled linseed oil on these. As soon as the oil hit the rosewood, it made the grain pop. I decided at that point, all of my planes will get linseed oil instead of shellac. The other nice thing about the linseed oil is an occasional quick thin coat brings back the luster and after time, gives a nice, built up used look.

Plane Smoothing plane Wood Rebate plane Jack plane


Other than that, the rest pretty much was straight forward. I polished the sides, cap, iron, screw, adjusters, and all the misc parts to a reasonable luster, waxed the sole and let it dry over night before putting it back together.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Wheel Alloy wheel Motor vehicle

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


I then tested it out to make sure the blade was sharp, adjusted the throat (I alway have it open to much, I habit I am trying to break) and hung it back up. The next picture of the plane rack will show a completed #7.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


I hope reading this series gives some inspiration, whether it be restoring tools, building boxes or climbing mountains. Not that I want another hearty sole competing against me on my next restore able purchase, but its a small price to pay to know the enjoyment and satisfaction that comes with a project completed and another memory made. I hope someday someone envisions me, gliding this plane across a workpiece, touting a half smile, unwilling to allow the stiff joints of my aging limbs to prevent me from achieving my daily pleasures. My persistence and caring of this piece of equipment will allow him the same pleasures, with the same occasional stiffness and determination!

Today, my life is good. Hope yours is as well.
 

Attachments

#36 ·
The #7

I've been searching for a #7 for a while now. I finally stumbled onto one in and antique shop that was within my acceptable price range. My wife and I was riding the bike through southern Vermont and stopped at this small shop. I wound up walking away with a nice #3 and a #7. How great is it to combine two pleasurable pass-times in one afternoon.

The nice thing about woodworking as a hobby, is you can work as inspiration strikes. Yesterday I was working on the drawers for my new (well not so new anymore) workbench, I had them glued up and set off to the side, when I just walked over to the plane rack (here's the plane rack. Note the #7 doesn't look so good.)
Hand tool Wood Snips Metalworking hand tool Tool


and grabbed the #7 to take a look. Inspiration struck and I was off to restore. This plane was actually in pretty good shape. The sole was flat, the blade had a nice hollow bevel, and the rust was very superficial. The jappaning was missing a bit more than I anticipated, so I decided to give it a coat of black after the good cleaning was complete.

The plane is actually worn more the any other plane I've bought. Not worn from abuse, but from use. I could tell it was used by a craftsman who liked his tools and maintained them well. As i said, the blade had a nice 25 degree hollow grind, which I left. The blade was 90 degrees but it has been sharpened many times. Only a fraction of its original glory remains. The handles took minimal sanding. The only spot that took the normal attention was the frog. It may have been flat, but the original machine marks were still very prevalent. I don't try to get this shiny and spotless, but I usually do take out the larger tool marks.

As I was working with this plane, I could envision an elderly gentleman gliding it across the workpiece. He touted a half smile, unwilling to allow the stiff joints of his aging limbs to prevent him from achieving his daily pleasures. His persistence and caring of this piece of equipment will allow me the same pleasures, with the same occasional stiffness and determination.

If only this plane could talk, it would have stories of pain and glory:
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane

Stories of caring then neglect:
Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Scrub plane Block plane

And a hope of a return to its former glory:
Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain Toy


I've decided not to write through a step by step of this plane, but draw attention to the differences from my previous experiences you can read in this series. Each plane I restore, I learn a little. Not so much about the technical ways of how to perform each step, but of ways to make these planes my personal possessions.

Plane Smoothing plane Block plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Fir instance as I was sanding the knob and tote for this plane, I was thinking of the finish. When refinishing my rifle stocks, I always use an oil finish, either tung or linseed oil. I decided to try the boiled linseed oil on these. As soon as the oil hit the rosewood, it made the grain pop. I decided at that point, all of my planes will get linseed oil instead of shellac. The other nice thing about the linseed oil is an occasional quick thin coat brings back the luster and after time, gives a nice, built up used look.

Plane Smoothing plane Wood Rebate plane Jack plane


Other than that, the rest pretty much was straight forward. I polished the sides, cap, iron, screw, adjusters, and all the misc parts to a reasonable luster, waxed the sole and let it dry over night before putting it back together.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Wheel Alloy wheel Motor vehicle

Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Composite material


I then tested it out to make sure the blade was sharp, adjusted the throat (I alway have it open to much, I habit I am trying to break) and hung it back up. The next picture of the plane rack will show a completed #7.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


I hope reading this series gives some inspiration, whether it be restoring tools, building boxes or climbing mountains. Not that I want another hearty sole competing against me on my next restore able purchase, but its a small price to pay to know the enjoyment and satisfaction that comes with a project completed and another memory made. I hope someday someone envisions me, gliding this plane across a workpiece, touting a half smile, unwilling to allow the stiff joints of my aging limbs to prevent me from achieving my daily pleasures. My persistence and caring of this piece of equipment will allow him the same pleasures, with the same occasional stiffness and determination!

Today, my life is good. Hope yours is as well.
Welcome to your new favorite plane! I'm enamored by your brass treatment. Favorited, expecting frequent returns :)

I've had a chance to read now and I very much enjoyed this post. I, too, am of the opinion that a mirror surfaced frog is a bad plan. I'll knock down coarse machining but want to keep some friction going. I switched from shellac a while back. I now use beeswax+turpentine but I don't really care for the smell. In your honor, I'll use BLO on my #8 that's about to be plopped into the electro tank.
 

Attachments

#51 ·
Solar Mfg Co #3

Interesting story to tell. I was headed out this afternoon to run some errands. We stopped at an antique mall that we stop at a lot. Several of the vendors have some nice tools, but they are typically very pricey. Today I found this plane for $12, it was marked Solar Mfg Co. on the blade and that was the only marking. I can't find any information on it. Its a little unusual to find a #3 like this. Something about this plane told me to take it home.
Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Scrub plane Jack plane


Plane Wood Composite material Hardwood Bicycle part


The real reason I wanted it was it looked exactly like a Stanley, it was a #3 (i've got 3 now) and the blade was thicker than everything I have now.
Wood Wood stain Material property Hardwood Table


The frog is exactly like my broken #3. It fits perfect with one exception, the adjustment screw is right handed. The adjustment screw is also steel and not brass. It doesn't have a lateral adjustment lever. If it wasn't for the right handed screw I'd think about switching.

The lever cap is painted black. It also doesn't have a spring on the back. There is no marking on the bed other than made in the us.

I just thought it was different. I'm sure it will work just like a stanley. I'll clean it up and add it to the collection.

I decided to clean it up and see how it would come out. The handles were not rosewood, probably beech,

Wood Floor Flooring Lamp Gas


After sanding I gave them a coat of walnut stain to darken them a little. Then the typical BLO coat or three.

and the screw holding the handles where just regular tapered screws, not the Stanley type brass nuts.

Above I said the iron adjustment knob was steel. It wasn't, it looked like brass, but didn't come out as bright as a typical Stanley would have.

The cap was painted black. I planned to leave it unpainted but didn't like the way it looked. For some reason the red can of paint jumped out at me, so that's what it got.

It still came out fairly nice. It seems to work well.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


Plane Scrub plane Rebate plane Wood Block plane


Hand tool Wood Tool Wood stain Hardwood


Font Gas Metal Circle Number
 

Attachments

#52 ·
Solar Mfg Co #3

Interesting story to tell. I was headed out this afternoon to run some errands. We stopped at an antique mall that we stop at a lot. Several of the vendors have some nice tools, but they are typically very pricey. Today I found this plane for $12, it was marked Solar Mfg Co. on the blade and that was the only marking. I can't find any information on it. Its a little unusual to find a #3 like this. Something about this plane told me to take it home.
Smoothing plane Plane Block plane Scrub plane Jack plane


Plane Wood Composite material Hardwood Bicycle part


The real reason I wanted it was it looked exactly like a Stanley, it was a #3 (i've got 3 now) and the blade was thicker than everything I have now.
Wood Wood stain Material property Hardwood Table


The frog is exactly like my broken #3. It fits perfect with one exception, the adjustment screw is right handed. The adjustment screw is also steel and not brass. It doesn't have a lateral adjustment lever. If it wasn't for the right handed screw I'd think about switching.

The lever cap is painted black. It also doesn't have a spring on the back. There is no marking on the bed other than made in the us.

I just thought it was different. I'm sure it will work just like a stanley. I'll clean it up and add it to the collection.

I decided to clean it up and see how it would come out. The handles were not rosewood, probably beech,

Wood Floor Flooring Lamp Gas


After sanding I gave them a coat of walnut stain to darken them a little. Then the typical BLO coat or three.

and the screw holding the handles where just regular tapered screws, not the Stanley type brass nuts.

Above I said the iron adjustment knob was steel. It wasn't, it looked like brass, but didn't come out as bright as a typical Stanley would have.

The cap was painted black. I planned to leave it unpainted but didn't like the way it looked. For some reason the red can of paint jumped out at me, so that's what it got.

It still came out fairly nice. It seems to work well.
Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


Plane Scrub plane Rebate plane Wood Block plane


Hand tool Wood Tool Wood stain Hardwood


Font Gas Metal Circle Number
Ive heard of Solar Mfg co, seen then come up once in a while on ebay but more frequently around Ma since they were made in Worcester MA up to the 70's, mainly knock off of others! yours look pretty good!
 

Attachments

#59 ·
Its a 4 1/2

Today, when I buy tools it will usually be for one of two reasons. The first is the obvious. I need the tool to perform a function. The second reason, not quite as understandable, I like to rehab tools. I relate it to someone stopping after running over a squirrel, and nursing it back to health. I have a need to nurse some of these tool back to health.

Hand planes are a perfect combination of usability, collectability, and rehabability. I never know what I'll find, or what will need to be done to restore. It can range from a simple cleanup like this 4 1/2 to a total rehab, like some of the previous planes I've blogged about. I bought this Stanley 4 1/2 to use. I bid on several on ebay before wining this one, unlike many of the 4's, 5's and 6's, most of these are already cleaned up and go for a higher price than I want to pay. I'm finding a similar situation in trying to find a #2. I'm not sure a #1 can be found in poor condition. I will keep up the hunt.



I usually look for the crappiest, dirtiest, worst condition I can find. Nursing it back to the health is half the fun. I think this next 5 1/4 was one of the worst and wound up being in the best shape. These two are in the same class. Looked really bad, but was just really dirty. Broken totes, missing knobs, even a broken frog won't deter me.



Cleaned up it looked like this:



But back to the 4 1 /2. This looked pretty dirty, so i was not sure if the japanning needed work. Just like the 5 1/4, I was pleasantly surprised to see it was almost 100%. All it needed was a good cleaning. So if you've follow my previous restore blogs in this series, you've seen some of my other restores and often different ways of doing what needs to be done.

First I take the plane all apart. The only thing left together is the lateral adjustment lever. Trying to remove this can wind up with a broken frog pretty quick. As I can not always finish a plane in a single shop session, I have a plastic container to hold the parts. After the first or second time fishing around for screws or parts, now everything goes into the plastic tray.

Next I clean the base. I typically use WD40 to clean it up. At this point I'll decide what I am going to do with the japanning. If the plane needs painting, I'll need to strip it. I like the sandblasting method the best, but I also use rust remover (still haven't found evaporust) and electrolysis. The #4 1/2 didn't need anything painted, so it got a coat of Fluid Film.


I wire wheel all the small parts, the chip beaker and the blade.

I also polish the chip breaker at the tip. This may need sanding if its bad enough. Sand it up to 500 or 600. Even higher wouldn't hurt. Then hit it with the polishing wheel.


The brass adjuster gets chucked in my drill press. It has already been wire brushed as much as I can. I buy the finest wire brush I can get (by finest I mean not course, not expensive). Don't chuck it to tight or the chuck will mar the finish. You can also wrap a cloth or tape around it to protect it. I start with 220 sandpaper. Run it up to 500 to polish it

I flatten the sole. I typically do this with some sandpaper on the table saw top. If it looks really bad, I'll take it over to the belt sander to get it close enough to work by hand.

I wire brush the sides of the base. Depending on the finish, I may sand it, again starting with 220, 320, 500.

The tote needs to be sanded by hand. I start with 120 or 150 and work my way up to 500. On this 4 1/2, I also hit it with the polishing wheel.

For the knob i have a small bolt that will fit through the hole in most knobs. I use a washer and tighten the nut. Then I chuck it in the drill press spin it, and sand it, again starting at about 120 or 150 and work my way up to 500. On this 4 1/2, I also hit it with the polishing wheel.

For both the knob and tote I then use steel wool and add a coat of BLO (boiled linseed oil) Rub vigerously with the steel wool, the wipe most of the oil with a rag. Wait a short while and add another coat. (You can also wet sand it in instead of the steel wool. Another coat in a day or two, and then a third a few days later should finish it nice.

Sharpen the blade. I haven't worked out the besty approach. It really depends on how much it need to be ground. If you don't have a method, I'd say the scary sharp technique is the best place to start.







Then make some shavings.

 

Attachments

#60 ·
Its a 4 1/2

Today, when I buy tools it will usually be for one of two reasons. The first is the obvious. I need the tool to perform a function. The second reason, not quite as understandable, I like to rehab tools. I relate it to someone stopping after running over a squirrel, and nursing it back to health. I have a need to nurse some of these tool back to health.

Hand planes are a perfect combination of usability, collectability, and rehabability. I never know what I'll find, or what will need to be done to restore. It can range from a simple cleanup like this 4 1/2 to a total rehab, like some of the previous planes I've blogged about. I bought this Stanley 4 1/2 to use. I bid on several on ebay before wining this one, unlike many of the 4's, 5's and 6's, most of these are already cleaned up and go for a higher price than I want to pay. I'm finding a similar situation in trying to find a #2. I'm not sure a #1 can be found in poor condition. I will keep up the hunt.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


I usually look for the crappiest, dirtiest, worst condition I can find. Nursing it back to the health is half the fun. I think this next 5 1/4 was one of the worst and wound up being in the best shape. These two are in the same class. Looked really bad, but was just really dirty. Broken totes, missing knobs, even a broken frog won't deter me.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Cleaned up it looked like this:

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


But back to the 4 1 /2. This looked pretty dirty, so i was not sure if the japanning needed work. Just like the 5 1/4, I was pleasantly surprised to see it was almost 100%. All it needed was a good cleaning. So if you've follow my previous restore blogs in this series, you've seen some of my other restores and often different ways of doing what needs to be done.

First I take the plane all apart. The only thing left together is the lateral adjustment lever. Trying to remove this can wind up with a broken frog pretty quick. As I can not always finish a plane in a single shop session, I have a plastic container to hold the parts. After the first or second time fishing around for screws or parts, now everything goes into the plastic tray.

Next I clean the base. I typically use WD40 to clean it up. At this point I'll decide what I am going to do with the japanning. If the plane needs painting, I'll need to strip it. I like the sandblasting method the best, but I also use rust remover (still haven't found evaporust) and electrolysis. The #4 1/2 didn't need anything painted, so it got a coat of Fluid Film.
Tin Ingredient Food Fluid Aluminum can


I wire wheel all the small parts, the chip beaker and the blade.

I also polish the chip breaker at the tip. This may need sanding if its bad enough. Sand it up to 500 or 600. Even higher wouldn't hurt. Then hit it with the polishing wheel.
Automotive exterior Rectangle Bumper Wood Gas


The brass adjuster gets chucked in my drill press. It has already been wire brushed as much as I can. I buy the finest wire brush I can get (by finest I mean not course, not expensive). Don't chuck it to tight or the chuck will mar the finish. You can also wrap a cloth or tape around it to protect it. I start with 220 sandpaper. Run it up to 500 to polish it

I flatten the sole. I typically do this with some sandpaper on the table saw top. If it looks really bad, I'll take it over to the belt sander to get it close enough to work by hand.

I wire brush the sides of the base. Depending on the finish, I may sand it, again starting with 220, 320, 500.

The tote needs to be sanded by hand. I start with 120 or 150 and work my way up to 500. On this 4 1/2, I also hit it with the polishing wheel.

For the knob i have a small bolt that will fit through the hole in most knobs. I use a washer and tighten the nut. Then I chuck it in the drill press spin it, and sand it, again starting at about 120 or 150 and work my way up to 500. On this 4 1/2, I also hit it with the polishing wheel.

For both the knob and tote I then use steel wool and add a coat of BLO (boiled linseed oil) Rub vigerously with the steel wool, the wipe most of the oil with a rag. Wait a short while and add another coat. (You can also wet sand it in instead of the steel wool. Another coat in a day or two, and then a third a few days later should finish it nice.

Sharpen the blade. I haven't worked out the besty approach. It really depends on how much it need to be ground. If you don't have a method, I'd say the scary sharp technique is the best place to start.

Plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Alloy wheel


Then make some shavings.

Wood Finger Stonemason's hammer Hand tool Gas
Looks like you got a good one there. Type 11?
 

Attachments

#68 ·
Another #6, its the worst one yet.

So, I decided to try to restore this Stanley #6 I picked up at a flee market.

Wood Smoothing plane Hardwood Wood stain Plank


This was in the worst condition of anything I've restored yet, but I figured I'd give it a go. It's my third Stanley #6, but it was the challenge calling my name.

First I tried to remove the broken screw on the front knob. I tried an easy out and wound up with a broken easy out in the riser as well. Plan B, which was now being devised was to grind off the riser, and braze a bolt on in its place. With the help of a good welder, that seemed to be successful. Lucky for me, my daughters other half happens to be a really good welder. He fixed it up nicely.

Since the knob was missing, and i didn't have any rosewood, I decided to make a new knob on my new lathe and a now tote, both out of wenge. Why wenge, well I happened to have some, I think its cool to say they were made out of "wenge" and they look good.

Wood Artifact Sculpture Art Hardwood


Next I made the knob. I did't take pictures of this but followed the same process as my previous knob building blog.

For the next part I made this my first test of evapo-rust. I must say it passed with flying colors. I also tried the new rustoleum hammer paint. I was pretty impressed with that as well, although it didn't seem a lot different than the Dupli-color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black I usually use. May recommendation, use the one easiest to find. They both seem to work great.

Next it was the normal, flatten the frog, clean up the iron, sharpen, clean up the cap iron, etc. You will note I need a lever cap. That will be the final step. I don't have an extra. There are a few on ebay, but they run $7 and up. Add shipping and thats 50% more than I paid for the last 2 #6 planes. I'll find one at some point, either on a parts plane or by trading for something I already have. Like I said, this is my 3rd #6 (not counting the Millers Falls #18) so I can afford to be patient.

You will also notice the front screw is steel and not brass. Again, it was what I had that fit. This will be a user, so color is not a big issue. Would you have noticed had I not called it out? I doubt I would.

Tool Wood Hardwood Block plane Wood stain


Wood Automotive design Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Art


Notice some serious pitting on the blade and cap. Luckily this didn't extend all the way to the tip, so the sharpened end came out ok. It sharpened without any pitted areas on the cutting end.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring Wood stain
 

Attachments

#69 ·
Another #6, its the worst one yet.

So, I decided to try to restore this Stanley #6 I picked up at a flee market.

Wood Smoothing plane Hardwood Wood stain Plank


This was in the worst condition of anything I've restored yet, but I figured I'd give it a go. It's my third Stanley #6, but it was the challenge calling my name.

First I tried to remove the broken screw on the front knob. I tried an easy out and wound up with a broken easy out in the riser as well. Plan B, which was now being devised was to grind off the riser, and braze a bolt on in its place. With the help of a good welder, that seemed to be successful. Lucky for me, my daughters other half happens to be a really good welder. He fixed it up nicely.

Since the knob was missing, and i didn't have any rosewood, I decided to make a new knob on my new lathe and a now tote, both out of wenge. Why wenge, well I happened to have some, I think its cool to say they were made out of "wenge" and they look good.

Wood Artifact Sculpture Art Hardwood


Next I made the knob. I did't take pictures of this but followed the same process as my previous knob building blog.

For the next part I made this my first test of evapo-rust. I must say it passed with flying colors. I also tried the new rustoleum hammer paint. I was pretty impressed with that as well, although it didn't seem a lot different than the Dupli-color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black I usually use. May recommendation, use the one easiest to find. They both seem to work great.

Next it was the normal, flatten the frog, clean up the iron, sharpen, clean up the cap iron, etc. You will note I need a lever cap. That will be the final step. I don't have an extra. There are a few on ebay, but they run $7 and up. Add shipping and thats 50% more than I paid for the last 2 #6 planes. I'll find one at some point, either on a parts plane or by trading for something I already have. Like I said, this is my 3rd #6 (not counting the Millers Falls #18) so I can afford to be patient.

You will also notice the front screw is steel and not brass. Again, it was what I had that fit. This will be a user, so color is not a big issue. Would you have noticed had I not called it out? I doubt I would.

Tool Wood Hardwood Block plane Wood stain


Wood Automotive design Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Art


Notice some serious pitting on the blade and cap. Luckily this didn't extend all the way to the tip, so the sharpened end came out ok. It sharpened without any pitted areas on the cutting end.

Wood Rectangle Hardwood Flooring Wood stain
Don, great restoration, im sure that one was close to the dump at some point!!!!
 

Attachments

#74 ·
The #4 FrankenPlane

My Dad always kept a well used military rifle with a cheap scope sighted in and stuck away in the gun cabinet. Every year one of the neighbors, or neighbors kids would stop by wanting to borrow a deer rifle. Not wanting to let out one of his "good" deer rifles, he would gladly hand over the dully worn but fully functional piece put together for just that occasion.

Well, just in case somebody stops by my shop and want to borrow a #4 smoother, I thought I'd put together a plane for just this occasions. (it never really happens but it could you know). As with firearms, you can never have to many and you never ever let a good one out of your shop.

Off to the parts bin to find the right pieces to go together. I'm not sure where any of these parts came from, but I'm sure it was a parts plane here and there I picked up, maybe for a particular part, or maybe just because it was cheap.

The surprise to me was how well it works. I've shown here the shavings from a white oak piece I've used to make a plane body. I might not be able to lone this out after all.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Gesture Finger Thumb Nail
 

Attachments

#75 ·
The #4 FrankenPlane

My Dad always kept a well used military rifle with a cheap scope sighted in and stuck away in the gun cabinet. Every year one of the neighbors, or neighbors kids would stop by wanting to borrow a deer rifle. Not wanting to let out one of his "good" deer rifles, he would gladly hand over the dully worn but fully functional piece put together for just that occasion.

Well, just in case somebody stops by my shop and want to borrow a #4 smoother, I thought I'd put together a plane for just this occasions. (it never really happens but it could you know). As with firearms, you can never have to many and you never ever let a good one out of your shop.

Off to the parts bin to find the right pieces to go together. I'm not sure where any of these parts came from, but I'm sure it was a parts plane here and there I picked up, maybe for a particular part, or maybe just because it was cheap.

The surprise to me was how well it works. I've shown here the shavings from a white oak piece I've used to make a plane body. I might not be able to lone this out after all.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Wood Gesture Finger Thumb Nail
I, too, HATE like the dickens to loan my good tools! I would much rather do the work for them than let them borry my tools. NOBODY and I mean NOBODY takes care of my tools the way I do. I will say that there may be an exception with Lumberjocks! I have spent too much time and money invested in my tools to let "half assed" people ruin it for me! Thanks for letting me rant!
 

Attachments

#79 ·
A Scrub and Jack back to service

I've been looking at the #40 Stanley for a while. When I saw a couple of planes on Ebay that needed some TLC and seemed to be a reasonable price, I pulled the trigger. They came as a lot, along with a very nice 220 block.

Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Wood Road surface


Musical instrument Automotive design Asphalt Wood Automotive tire


I haven't repainted the Stanley #40 yet. I'm not sure if I will or not. What you see in the picture that looks like rust is just the fluid film. I'm not sure why the picture make it a "rusty" color.

Here are the before pictures.
Foot Art Wood Human leg Paint


After getting the plane I just gave it a quick cleanup and sharpening to give it a test run. I've never used a scrub before. I was pretty impressed with its ability to remove wood quickly.

Smoothing plane Plane Hand tool Wood Rebate plane


Basically all I did was refinish the wood as I normally do, using BLO as a finish, give the rest a good wire brushing and put it back together all cleaned and oiled. Unlike a bench plane, the #40 typically has painted sides. This didn't have much left, but for now I am not repainting.
Musical instrument Wood Art Metal Natural material

Wood Composite material Art Metal Automotive design


The #S5 was an added bonus for me. Not that I needed another #5, but I don't have an S#. Stanley made an S4 and an S5. If you haven't seen the S5, here is what Patrick Gore has to say about them:

"Offered as indestructable planes, Stanley made these planes for heavy duty abuse. They advertised them as being useful for shops that had concrete floors. If I were in Stanley's marketing department, back when the planes were offered, I would have added that the planes were also designed for those workdudes prone to losing their temper, where the planes can withstand their being slammed to the ground during a fit of rage, like after you smash your thumb with a hammer or something like that.

These planes beg abuse, and have a pressed or forged steel bottom. The steel is bent to form a U-shape. A piece forward of the mouth and rear of the mouth are riveted to the steel bottom. The lever cap and frog are made of malleable iron (the normal bench planes have their bottom casting made of gray iron), with the frog's casting having a noticeably coarser texture than those provided on the Bailey line."

Here are the before pictures:

Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Wood Shoulder plane

Smoothing plane Plane Wood Jack plane Shoulder plane


I pretty much did a normal restore here is my normal restore blog but here are the highlights for the S5.

The japanning was so far gone i just soaked it in Evapo-rust overnight, then added a little paint remover. There wasn't much to remove, so it didn't take a lot of effort. Finished the clean up and painted it several coats of the engine enamel. Knob and tote got the same treatment as above.

The original cap had the background on the logo painted red, so I redid that, sharpened it, and put it back together.

Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Rebate plane Wood


Wood Composite material Automotive design Road surface Asphalt


Its got a few pitted spots on the side walls, but all-in-all it came out pretty reasonable. Its found a spot in my cabinet (which is already running out of room).

Thanks for stopping by and I hope you found some interesting tidbits to make it worth your time.
 

Attachments

#80 ·
A Scrub and Jack back to service

I've been looking at the #40 Stanley for a while. When I saw a couple of planes on Ebay that needed some TLC and seemed to be a reasonable price, I pulled the trigger. They came as a lot, along with a very nice 220 block.

Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Wood Road surface


Musical instrument Automotive design Asphalt Wood Automotive tire


I haven't repainted the Stanley #40 yet. I'm not sure if I will or not. What you see in the picture that looks like rust is just the fluid film. I'm not sure why the picture make it a "rusty" color.

Here are the before pictures.
Foot Art Wood Human leg Paint


After getting the plane I just gave it a quick cleanup and sharpening to give it a test run. I've never used a scrub before. I was pretty impressed with its ability to remove wood quickly.

Smoothing plane Plane Hand tool Wood Rebate plane


Basically all I did was refinish the wood as I normally do, using BLO as a finish, give the rest a good wire brushing and put it back together all cleaned and oiled. Unlike a bench plane, the #40 typically has painted sides. This didn't have much left, but for now I am not repainting.
Musical instrument Wood Art Metal Natural material

Wood Composite material Art Metal Automotive design


The #S5 was an added bonus for me. Not that I needed another #5, but I don't have an S#. Stanley made an S4 and an S5. If you haven't seen the S5, here is what Patrick Gore has to say about them:

"Offered as indestructable planes, Stanley made these planes for heavy duty abuse. They advertised them as being useful for shops that had concrete floors. If I were in Stanley's marketing department, back when the planes were offered, I would have added that the planes were also designed for those workdudes prone to losing their temper, where the planes can withstand their being slammed to the ground during a fit of rage, like after you smash your thumb with a hammer or something like that.

These planes beg abuse, and have a pressed or forged steel bottom. The steel is bent to form a U-shape. A piece forward of the mouth and rear of the mouth are riveted to the steel bottom. The lever cap and frog are made of malleable iron (the normal bench planes have their bottom casting made of gray iron), with the frog's casting having a noticeably coarser texture than those provided on the Bailey line."

Here are the before pictures:

Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Wood Shoulder plane

Smoothing plane Plane Wood Jack plane Shoulder plane


I pretty much did a normal restore here is my normal restore blog but here are the highlights for the S5.

The japanning was so far gone i just soaked it in Evapo-rust overnight, then added a little paint remover. There wasn't much to remove, so it didn't take a lot of effort. Finished the clean up and painted it several coats of the engine enamel. Knob and tote got the same treatment as above.

The original cap had the background on the logo painted red, so I redid that, sharpened it, and put it back together.

Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Rebate plane Wood


Wood Composite material Automotive design Road surface Asphalt


Its got a few pitted spots on the side walls, but all-in-all it came out pretty reasonable. Its found a spot in my cabinet (which is already running out of room).

Thanks for stopping by and I hope you found some interesting tidbits to make it worth your time.
As usual Don, great job. I am not familiar with the S planes, but it looks cool. Amazing transformation. I would like to hear more about the repaint of Stanley logo process. Well done.
 

Attachments

#90 ·
A Stanley #45. Finding a home.

After posting that I was looking for a Stanley #45 on LJ's, a fellow member mentioned he had one, but it needed all the accessories. It wasn't long after it showed up in the mail.

Musical instrument Wood Gas Art Metal


Wood Gas Paint Auto part Hardwood


Wood Musical instrument Gas Metal Tints and shades


After a long time trying, I finally scored some additional cutters for the 45. I bid on a lot, and got beat a lot. But finally I prevailed and these showed up in the mail.

Wood Rectangle Art Font Building


Next was the longer rods. I recently won a set and they should be on their way here, so it was time to figure out how to keep this stuff together. Time to make a box to keep it all in.

I decided to use some self-cut popular I already had. I wanted hand cut dovetails and a raised panel top. Here what I came up with.

I marked out the dovetails. I still haven't made a dovetail template yet, so the marking was done with a sliding t bevel. A standard 14 degrees. It also gave me a chance to use my restored disston 70. and my marking guige I made several years ago. I've had a wing bolt on my list of things to pick up ever since I made it. I always forget!

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Varnish


Wood Gas Machine Room Hardwood


Wood Chair Flooring Hardwood Gas


Clean 'em up with one of my restored chisels. I don't know the make of this chisel. There is some really bad pitting in one spot, and that spot happens to be where the name is.

Wood Office ruler Finger Hand tool Hardwood


Wood Office ruler Flooring Floor Hardwood


Mark the tails from the Pins. I know its better to use a marking knife, and I made a couple to use, but my eye sight isn't what it used to be, so I keep the pencil sharp.

Wood Hardwood Tool Wood stain Flooring


I also always mark the waste. There is nothing more annoying then cutting the wrong side of the line because you got confused what was waste and what was not. Yes…I get confused easily and often distracted (shiny objects do that) so, pencil it in.

Wood Office ruler Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Now break out the #3 to smooth up the sides before putting it together.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Glue it up.

Wood Gas Composite material Machine Machine tool


I usually cut my raised panels on a shaper, but my shaper needs a little work, and I haven't decided if I'm going to set it up in the new shop or just buy some raised panel bits for the router. So off to the table saw to create a raised panel for the top.

I decided to go with a butternut raised panel. First because I had a scrap piece almost the perfect size, and second, I love butternut. Almost the same deal with the skirt. I made them out of red oak because I had a few pieces just laying around.

Next the frame for the toip was cut with my new miter saw. This will be the first time actually using it for something real. I must say, I like it.

I wanted to darken and highlight this, but just a little, so I gave it a coat of BLO, then a coat of Walnut Danish oil. I'll give it a few more coats of BLO.

Rectangle Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Wooden block Wood stain Plank


Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Rectangle Wood Wood stain Plank Flooring


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


I plan to make another small try for inside the box, but want to wait until the other set of rods gets here. I want to make sure there is room so I don't have to remove them to put the plane in the box.
 

Attachments

#91 ·
A Stanley #45. Finding a home.

After posting that I was looking for a Stanley #45 on LJ's, a fellow member mentioned he had one, but it needed all the accessories. It wasn't long after it showed up in the mail.

Musical instrument Wood Gas Art Metal


Wood Gas Paint Auto part Hardwood


Wood Musical instrument Gas Metal Tints and shades


After a long time trying, I finally scored some additional cutters for the 45. I bid on a lot, and got beat a lot. But finally I prevailed and these showed up in the mail.

Wood Rectangle Art Font Building


Next was the longer rods. I recently won a set and they should be on their way here, so it was time to figure out how to keep this stuff together. Time to make a box to keep it all in.

I decided to use some self-cut popular I already had. I wanted hand cut dovetails and a raised panel top. Here what I came up with.

I marked out the dovetails. I still haven't made a dovetail template yet, so the marking was done with a sliding t bevel. A standard 14 degrees. It also gave me a chance to use my restored disston 70. and my marking guige I made several years ago. I've had a wing bolt on my list of things to pick up ever since I made it. I always forget!

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Varnish


Wood Gas Machine Room Hardwood


Wood Chair Flooring Hardwood Gas


Clean 'em up with one of my restored chisels. I don't know the make of this chisel. There is some really bad pitting in one spot, and that spot happens to be where the name is.

Wood Office ruler Finger Hand tool Hardwood


Wood Office ruler Flooring Floor Hardwood


Mark the tails from the Pins. I know its better to use a marking knife, and I made a couple to use, but my eye sight isn't what it used to be, so I keep the pencil sharp.

Wood Hardwood Tool Wood stain Flooring


I also always mark the waste. There is nothing more annoying then cutting the wrong side of the line because you got confused what was waste and what was not. Yes…I get confused easily and often distracted (shiny objects do that) so, pencil it in.

Wood Office ruler Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Now break out the #3 to smooth up the sides before putting it together.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Glue it up.

Wood Gas Composite material Machine Machine tool


I usually cut my raised panels on a shaper, but my shaper needs a little work, and I haven't decided if I'm going to set it up in the new shop or just buy some raised panel bits for the router. So off to the table saw to create a raised panel for the top.

I decided to go with a butternut raised panel. First because I had a scrap piece almost the perfect size, and second, I love butternut. Almost the same deal with the skirt. I made them out of red oak because I had a few pieces just laying around.

Next the frame for the toip was cut with my new miter saw. This will be the first time actually using it for something real. I must say, I like it.

I wanted to darken and highlight this, but just a little, so I gave it a coat of BLO, then a coat of Walnut Danish oil. I'll give it a few more coats of BLO.

Rectangle Wood Hardwood Flooring Wood stain


Wood Rectangle Wooden block Wood stain Plank


Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Hardwood


Rectangle Wood Wood stain Plank Flooring


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


I plan to make another small try for inside the box, but want to wait until the other set of rods gets here. I want to make sure there is room so I don't have to remove them to put the plane in the box.
You made a really ncie job of that Don. Isn't it great to use tools that you've brought back to life? Now you've got no excuse of loosing any of the bits. :eek:)
 

Attachments

#114 ·
Infill Jack (well almost)

I've been working on this for 6 or 8 months. I'd do a little, loose interest, and set it back on the shelf. It sat so long I wound up using the frog, blade, cap iron and cap for another plane long since forgotten. The current frog has a broken top, so the lateral adjustment lever is gone. I will need to find 2. One for the nice #4 it came from and a replacement for this one.

The infill is made from ash. The front knob was a broken knob off a transitional. I had originally planned to turn a new knob, but that seemed to fit. The base is from a Stanley knock off #5.

The back infill is epoxied into the base. The front is just held on with the knob screw into the original hole.

The blade adjustment works as original.

I'm not sure what provoked me to do it. I just wanted something a little different.

.
Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Wood Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Wood Smoothing plane Jack plane Plane Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Varnish Art Plywood


Plane Smoothing plane Wood Jack plane Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Auto part


Wood Hardwood Metal Wood stain Fashion accessory


I tested it to see if I could get some decent shavings. It worked fairly well, but It needs a lateral adjuster for sure. I plan to camber the blade and make it back into a jack.

Wood Hood Automotive design Fender Bumper


Smoothing plane Hand tool Plane Shoulder plane Wood
 

Attachments

#115 ·
Infill Jack (well almost)

I've been working on this for 6 or 8 months. I'd do a little, loose interest, and set it back on the shelf. It sat so long I wound up using the frog, blade, cap iron and cap for another plane long since forgotten. The current frog has a broken top, so the lateral adjustment lever is gone. I will need to find 2. One for the nice #4 it came from and a replacement for this one.

The infill is made from ash. The front knob was a broken knob off a transitional. I had originally planned to turn a new knob, but that seemed to fit. The base is from a Stanley knock off #5.

The back infill is epoxied into the base. The front is just held on with the knob screw into the original hole.

The blade adjustment works as original.

I'm not sure what provoked me to do it. I just wanted something a little different.

.
Smoothing plane Scrub plane Plane Wood Jack plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Wood Smoothing plane Jack plane Plane Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Varnish Art Plywood


Plane Smoothing plane Wood Jack plane Hardwood


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Flooring Auto part


Wood Hardwood Metal Wood stain Fashion accessory


I tested it to see if I could get some decent shavings. It worked fairly well, but It needs a lateral adjuster for sure. I plan to camber the blade and make it back into a jack.

Wood Hood Automotive design Fender Bumper


Smoothing plane Hand tool Plane Shoulder plane Wood
i like the design on it the saw handle looks big n stout and ready for some scrubbing.
 

Attachments

#127 ·
Wood Bodied Fillister restored.

Wood Musical instrument Chair Wood stain Hardwood


Musical instrument Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish


Musical instrument Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Before
Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Laminate flooring


Wood Cookie cutter Hardwood Wood stain Rectangle


More photo's and info
great restoring of that fillestre …. but… but does it work …. where are the shavings …. :)

thanks for sharing Don .. I have one too I have to give a work over but it looks like new
compared to what you started with

take care
Dennis
 

Attachments

#136 ·
Let's trick out a type 21 #4

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Tableware Wood Plane Ingredient


Ok, I know type 21 isn't really a type, its actually the type after the last type, but then we know most types are a bit vague anyhow.

I am always a little saddened by some statements I hear about the later Stanley planes. Although some of it is justified, most of it can be easily overcome and all can be fixed to make a great user plane. I think overlooking these later planes leaves a whole set of possibilities off the table.

Some of the things I like about the later planes like the one pictured is they have a heavy sole. It's cast heavy and has a heavy look and feel. These planes are also fairly abundant and can be come across fairly cheap. But not all is gleam and glory however, and this is the reason I say some if it is justified. I do like the older style laterial adjuster better, and the frog on the new style has a cheaper look and feel. That said, it will work once tuned.

I'm also not a big fan of the chromed cap, and I often strip the chrome if its in bad shape on any chromed cap plane. This one however was in pretty good shape, so I just polished it up and left it. If you find one with a lot of rust, a good wire wheel will remove it. Depending on your taste, you may want to strip it totally.

Also its worth noting that Stanley (or most manufactures for that mater) never made a plane that was ready right off the assembly line, so tune up is required on every vintage plane you find, and some may take some time. This was actually one of my more enjoyable restores.

The V shaped bars behind the frog kind of intrigues me. I know they are probably there to supplement a lesser quality cast, but it seems to serve the purpose of holding the tote straight as well. These only seem to be on the English made planes and add a little weight as well.

The other sad part is the knob and tote. Its pathetic as is and it just can not be fixed using the existing in my opinion.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Wood Shoulder plane


Smoothing plane Plane Hand tool Scrub plane Wood


But hey, we're woodworkers. So for mine, I made a set from bloodwood.

Wood Plant Natural foods Food Magenta


Human body Wood Basic pump Human leg Foot


I also decided to checker the tote. Now I haven't had my checkering files out in about 10-15 years, so if you look close, you may find a few slight mishaps, but I was happy with the outcome. Note I also went bold and went straight to borderless.

Wood Fender Art Bicycle part Bicycle saddle


Wood Gas Flooring Art Hardwood


I was also going to change out the knob and tote screw and the adjustment knob for the brass style, but after just a few minutes the metal came out just fine.

Bag Wood Musical instrument String instrument String instrument accessory


Plane Scrub plane Wood Rebate plane Basic pump


The rest is a normal tuning. I flattened the frog which didn't take much at all. I flatten the sole, which also was extremely easy (much to my surprise). The iron was sharpened, the back flattened and polished and then put to work. The chip breaker was tuned and polished as with everything I tune.

Wood Personal protective equipment Hardwood Helmet Wood stain


Food Ingredient Cuisine Dish Staple food


Food Tableware Ingredient Wood Kitchen utensil


Kitchen utensil Wood Knife Hardwood Wood stain


Food Jaw Ingredient Wood BĂ©chamel sauce


Food Ingredient Tableware Wood Recipe
 

Attachments

#137 ·
Let's trick out a type 21 #4

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Tableware Wood Plane Ingredient


Ok, I know type 21 isn't really a type, its actually the type after the last type, but then we know most types are a bit vague anyhow.

I am always a little saddened by some statements I hear about the later Stanley planes. Although some of it is justified, most of it can be easily overcome and all can be fixed to make a great user plane. I think overlooking these later planes leaves a whole set of possibilities off the table.

Some of the things I like about the later planes like the one pictured is they have a heavy sole. It's cast heavy and has a heavy look and feel. These planes are also fairly abundant and can be come across fairly cheap. But not all is gleam and glory however, and this is the reason I say some if it is justified. I do like the older style laterial adjuster better, and the frog on the new style has a cheaper look and feel. That said, it will work once tuned.

I'm also not a big fan of the chromed cap, and I often strip the chrome if its in bad shape on any chromed cap plane. This one however was in pretty good shape, so I just polished it up and left it. If you find one with a lot of rust, a good wire wheel will remove it. Depending on your taste, you may want to strip it totally.

Also its worth noting that Stanley (or most manufactures for that mater) never made a plane that was ready right off the assembly line, so tune up is required on every vintage plane you find, and some may take some time. This was actually one of my more enjoyable restores.

The V shaped bars behind the frog kind of intrigues me. I know they are probably there to supplement a lesser quality cast, but it seems to serve the purpose of holding the tote straight as well. These only seem to be on the English made planes and add a little weight as well.

The other sad part is the knob and tote. Its pathetic as is and it just can not be fixed using the existing in my opinion.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


Smoothing plane Plane Jack plane Wood Shoulder plane


Smoothing plane Plane Hand tool Scrub plane Wood


But hey, we're woodworkers. So for mine, I made a set from bloodwood.

Wood Plant Natural foods Food Magenta


Human body Wood Basic pump Human leg Foot


I also decided to checker the tote. Now I haven't had my checkering files out in about 10-15 years, so if you look close, you may find a few slight mishaps, but I was happy with the outcome. Note I also went bold and went straight to borderless.

Wood Fender Art Bicycle part Bicycle saddle


Wood Gas Flooring Art Hardwood


I was also going to change out the knob and tote screw and the adjustment knob for the brass style, but after just a few minutes the metal came out just fine.

Bag Wood Musical instrument String instrument String instrument accessory


Plane Scrub plane Wood Rebate plane Basic pump


The rest is a normal tuning. I flattened the frog which didn't take much at all. I flatten the sole, which also was extremely easy (much to my surprise). The iron was sharpened, the back flattened and polished and then put to work. The chip breaker was tuned and polished as with everything I tune.

Wood Personal protective equipment Hardwood Helmet Wood stain


Food Ingredient Cuisine Dish Staple food


Food Tableware Ingredient Wood Kitchen utensil


Kitchen utensil Wood Knife Hardwood Wood stain


Food Jaw Ingredient Wood BĂ©chamel sauce


Food Ingredient Tableware Wood Recipe
Nice work, Don.

I agree with you that the later planes get something of an undeserved bad rap sometimes.
 

Attachments

#155 ·
Checkering the Tote

Wood Trunk Creative arts Natural material Varnish


So after posting this http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/30812 I had some request to show better detail on checkering. It had been a while since I checkered, but I have several firearms I did several years ago. This is just a few.

Musical instrument Leg Human body Wood Bicycle saddle


Wood Revolver Gun accessory Wood stain Air gun


Wood Textile Material property Wood stain Hardwood


So lets look at how we would do this on a plane tote. First we need some files. I have 2 sets, 18 lines per inch and 22 lines per inch. I'm using the 18, again, because its been a while.

Table Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood


The four files are as follows, a 4 line cutter, a 2 line cutter, a rough single and a finish single.

First we'll sand the tote to finish, then lay out the borders. I'll start with a borderless again. It should come out like this.

Wood Fender Art Bicycle part Bicycle saddle


But we'll start with a cherry tote this time.

Wood Tints and shades Gas Natural material Font


then we'll lay out the borders. Note for firearms I have a bunch of templates.

Wood Flooring Office supplies Hardwood Office equipment


But I'll draw these freehand. Note I'm wrapping this around the back of the handle. Checkering through contours add a bit of time. I did the bloodwood shown above in one sitting. Tonight I didn't make it.

Wood Musical instrument Chair Hardwood Tints and shades


Wood Musical instrument Natural material Hardwood Wood stain


So both sides are laid out, my magnifier lamp set up we're ready to cut our first line.

Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Fender Gas


I'm going to use the 2 line cutter. I never really liked the 4 line. It works well, but only on flat straight lines.

Wood Automotive wheel system Tints and shades Thigh Human leg


Wood Natural material Hardwood Wood stain Varnish


Wood Knee Thigh Elbow Tints and shades


The idea is to cut to the border line. We'll be using a combination of the double and single cutters.

Then just keep going, One line at a time, letting the double cutter use the last line as a guide. The trick is to get it deep enough for a good guide line.

Wood Automotive wheel system Tints and shades Thigh Human leg


Wood Tints and shades Human leg Hardwood Flooring


Until one side is complete

Chair Wood Automotive design Tints and shades Font


then go back over everything one more time. I use the single cutter for this step. That way I can get all the way to the ends and keep everything clean and even. (well, that's the theory anyhow)

Sculpture Wood Art Trunk Artifact


Now start the same sequence again, but at about a 40 degree angle for the opposing line.

Brown Wood Flooring Tints and shades Hardwood


I managed to get a little further than this tonight, but must have forgot the last picture. So we'll finish later.

So here is what I had finished last night.

Human body Wood Musical instrument Hardwood Flooring


Next will just just continue on side 1. After complete I'll re-cut with the rough single cut. Then both sides get re-cut with the finish cutter. You continue with the finish until the checkers at almost to a point.

and some random shots as I cleaned it up.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Wood stain


Wood Sculpture Art Rectangle Artifact


And complete. You can see the one little mishap in the middle. I may be able to clean that up to.

Wood Hardwood Plywood Human leg Carmine


So on to side 2.
For side 2 I'd like to present the jointer. Made for the long straight runs.

Brown Wood Amber Floor Flooring


Hand Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And this is as far as a got today. Off to a family affair.

Furniture Wood Sculpture Chair Art


More to come.
 

Attachments

#156 ·
Checkering the Tote



So after posting this http://lumberjocks.com/donwilwol/blog/30812 I had some request to show better detail on checkering. It had been a while since I checkered, but I have several firearms I did several years ago. This is just a few.







So lets look at how we would do this on a plane tote. First we need some files. I have 2 sets, 18 lines per inch and 22 lines per inch. I'm using the 18, again, because its been a while.



The four files are as follows, a 4 line cutter, a 2 line cutter, a rough single and a finish single.

First we'll sand the tote to finish, then lay out the borders. I'll start with a borderless again. It should come out like this.



But we'll start with a cherry tote this time.



then we'll lay out the borders. Note for firearms I have a bunch of templates.



But I'll draw these freehand. Note I'm wrapping this around the back of the handle. Checkering through contours add a bit of time. I did the bloodwood shown above in one sitting. Tonight I didn't make it.





So both sides are laid out, my magnifier lamp set up we're ready to cut our first line.



I'm going to use the 2 line cutter. I never really liked the 4 line. It works well, but only on flat straight lines.







The idea is to cut to the border line. We'll be using a combination of the double and single cutters.

Then just keep going, One line at a time, letting the double cutter use the last line as a guide. The trick is to get it deep enough for a good guide line.

Wood Automotive wheel system Tints and shades Thigh Human leg


Wood Tints and shades Human leg Hardwood Flooring


Until one side is complete

Chair Wood Automotive design Tints and shades Font


then go back over everything one more time. I use the single cutter for this step. That way I can get all the way to the ends and keep everything clean and even. (well, that's the theory anyhow)

Sculpture Wood Art Trunk Artifact


Now start the same sequence again, but at about a 40 degree angle for the opposing line.

Brown Wood Flooring Tints and shades Hardwood


I managed to get a little further than this tonight, but must have forgot the last picture. So we'll finish later.

So here is what I had finished last night.

Human body Wood Musical instrument Hardwood Flooring


Next will just just continue on side 1. After complete I'll re-cut with the rough single cut. Then both sides get re-cut with the finish cutter. You continue with the finish until the checkers at almost to a point.

and some random shots as I cleaned it up.

Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Wood stain


Wood Sculpture Art Rectangle Artifact


And complete. You can see the one little mishap in the middle. I may be able to clean that up to.

Wood Hardwood Plywood Human leg Carmine


So on to side 2.
For side 2 I'd like to present the jointer. Made for the long straight runs.

Brown Wood Amber Floor Flooring


Hand Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


Brown Wood Flooring Beige Floor


And this is as far as a got today. Off to a family affair.

Furniture Wood Sculpture Chair Art


More to come.
Very cool, Don. I have cleaned up checkering when refinishing stocks, but never done it from scratch. It will be interesting to watch the whole process. Is there a significance to the 40degree angle, or just because it produces a diamond shape that is pleasing to the eye?
 

Attachments

#189 ·
A Sargent Shaw Patent #15

I made some awesome scores at the Madison Bouckville antique festival this year. Maybe you've already seen the Stanley #1 I found, or the Sargent 307, or the Ulmia #25? Well today I cleaned up the Sargent #15. I've never had a Sargent #15, or any of the shaw patents before.

I've also started a sort of fondness for Sargent. I absolutely love their block planes. I'm not a big fan of the typical 40x series and thought the Sargent bench plane series was a bust until I snagged this little sweet heart.

The Shaw patent was put out similar to the Bedrock. It's got a frog design that allows the frog to be adjusted without the blade being removed. If they are all like this one, they are a high quality hand plane.

The casting is heavy, the blade is thicker with a slight taper, the cap iron is heavier, and the knob and tote is nice. I don't think its rosewood, but its something beautiful.

This is the way it came.

Wood Tool Hardwood Handgun holster Carmine


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Shoulder plane Scrub plane


Automotive exterior Bumper Rectangle Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Wood Gas Wood stain Machine Auto part


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Tints and shades


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive design


Wood Art Artifact Sculpture Metal


Gas Wood Auto part Hood Metal


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Rebate plane Jack plane


Scrub plane Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Wood


Scrub plane Plane Wood Block plane Rebate plane


Bumper Camera accessory Gadget Automotive exterior Wood


Wood Tool Bicycle part Scrub plane Knife


Wood Saw Hunting knife Hand tool Metal


Bumper Camera accessory Gadget Automotive exterior Wood


Plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane Tableware Jack plane


Food Ingredient Wood Recipe Staple food


I'd love to determine its value, but so far I haven't found one for sale, or thats been sold, so it's still a mystery.
 

Attachments

#190 ·
A Sargent Shaw Patent #15

I made some awesome scores at the Madison Bouckville antique festival this year. Maybe you've already seen the Stanley #1 I found, or the Sargent 307, or the Ulmia #25? Well today I cleaned up the Sargent #15. I've never had a Sargent #15, or any of the shaw patents before.

I've also started a sort of fondness for Sargent. I absolutely love their block planes. I'm not a big fan of the typical 40x series and thought the Sargent bench plane series was a bust until I snagged this little sweet heart.

The Shaw patent was put out similar to the Bedrock. It's got a frog design that allows the frog to be adjusted without the blade being removed. If they are all like this one, they are a high quality hand plane.

The casting is heavy, the blade is thicker with a slight taper, the cap iron is heavier, and the knob and tote is nice. I don't think its rosewood, but its something beautiful.

This is the way it came.

Wood Tool Hardwood Handgun holster Carmine


Smoothing plane Plane Wood Shoulder plane Scrub plane


Automotive exterior Bumper Rectangle Automotive tire Motor vehicle


Wood Gas Wood stain Machine Auto part


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Tints and shades


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Automotive design


Wood Art Artifact Sculpture Metal


Gas Wood Auto part Hood Metal


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Rebate plane Jack plane


Scrub plane Plane Smoothing plane Rebate plane Wood


Scrub plane Plane Wood Block plane Rebate plane


Bumper Camera accessory Gadget Automotive exterior Wood


Wood Tool Bicycle part Scrub plane Knife


Wood Saw Hunting knife Hand tool Metal


Bumper Camera accessory Gadget Automotive exterior Wood


Plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane Tableware Jack plane


Food Ingredient Wood Recipe Staple food


I'd love to determine its value, but so far I haven't found one for sale, or thats been sold, so it's still a mystery.
I am beginning to understand why you fellas love planes - have just started using them - mine aren't as pretty - or effective as this - these are lovely!
 

Attachments

#204 ·
2 new Sargent Hand Planes (#708, #415)

I post this yesterday on my blog but didn't get a chance to post it here, so I'll add the 2 new Sargent planes together.

The #708 is posted here.

I bought this plane because it came with some others that I made a deal on. It didn't have a iron and it sat for a while. After doing some research I found out these go for a quit a bit of money, so I figured I find a blade and get it working. The #708 is a #3 size smoother.

After looking around a bit and emailing a few people, Bob Kaune over at http://www.antique-used-tools.com emailed and said he had a blade, so I bought it.

The plane needed repainting so I sandblasted it and stripped it. Painted it with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint as I suggest in my restoration blog.

The Sargent 708 has a feature I haven't had on any bench plane before. The front piece acts as the cap iron and its adjustable, so you can fine tune it for a very thin shaving, without taking anything apart.

This plane works amazingly well. This piece you see it sitting on is a piece od ash I use for testing. This is the first plane that totally eliminates tear on this stuff, including the Ulmia 25.

Note all the pictures(more on the blog). I just kept stopping what I was doing (restoring a Sargent 415) to take a few shavings. It was wonderful.

Ingredient Recipe Cuisine Dish Wood


Wood Plane Smoothing plane Hardwood Wood chopping


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane

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-
Next is the Sargent #415. The Sargent# 415 is like the Stanley# 5 1/2 size. This one I have before pictures of.

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Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane


Note the condition of the knob and tote. They obviously needed replacement, and I wanted something other than rosewood. I decided on bloodwood. A lot of Sargent's came with Mahogany, but I didn't have any available. I thought this was a suitable replacement. And Of course I never make one at a time.

Wood Art Serveware Sculpture Creative arts


Wood Interior design Art Artifact Creative arts


The japanning was shot as well, so it needed to be stripped and repainted. As with the #708 and all my repainting, I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Scrub plane Plane Rebate plane Smoothing plane Shoulder plane

-

I put a modest camber on the blade, so no full width shavings, but a nice jack style plane for my collection.

-
Food Ingredient Recipe Cutting board Cuisine


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


And the two together

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Thanks for looking and may all your irons stay sharp and your shaving stay crisp.
 

Attachments

#205 ·
2 new Sargent Hand Planes (#708, #415)

I post this yesterday on my blog but didn't get a chance to post it here, so I'll add the 2 new Sargent planes together.

The #708 is posted here.

I bought this plane because it came with some others that I made a deal on. It didn't have a iron and it sat for a while. After doing some research I found out these go for a quit a bit of money, so I figured I find a blade and get it working. The #708 is a #3 size smoother.

After looking around a bit and emailing a few people, Bob Kaune over at http://www.antique-used-tools.com emailed and said he had a blade, so I bought it.

The plane needed repainting so I sandblasted it and stripped it. Painted it with Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint as I suggest in my restoration blog.

The Sargent 708 has a feature I haven't had on any bench plane before. The front piece acts as the cap iron and its adjustable, so you can fine tune it for a very thin shaving, without taking anything apart.

This plane works amazingly well. This piece you see it sitting on is a piece od ash I use for testing. This is the first plane that totally eliminates tear on this stuff, including the Ulmia 25.

Note all the pictures(more on the blog). I just kept stopping what I was doing (restoring a Sargent 415) to take a few shavings. It was wonderful.

Ingredient Recipe Cuisine Dish Wood


Wood Plane Smoothing plane Hardwood Wood chopping


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane

-
-
Next is the Sargent #415. The Sargent# 415 is like the Stanley# 5 1/2 size. This one I have before pictures of.

-

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Shoulder plane


Note the condition of the knob and tote. They obviously needed replacement, and I wanted something other than rosewood. I decided on bloodwood. A lot of Sargent's came with Mahogany, but I didn't have any available. I thought this was a suitable replacement. And Of course I never make one at a time.

Wood Art Serveware Sculpture Creative arts


Wood Interior design Art Artifact Creative arts


The japanning was shot as well, so it needed to be stripped and repainted. As with the #708 and all my repainting, I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black spray paint

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Scrub plane Plane Rebate plane Smoothing plane Shoulder plane

-

I put a modest camber on the blade, so no full width shavings, but a nice jack style plane for my collection.

-
Food Ingredient Recipe Cutting board Cuisine


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Block plane


And the two together

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Block plane Jack plane


Thanks for looking and may all your irons stay sharp and your shaving stay crisp.
Wow Don! As always these look amazing, I really like the Bloodwood
 

Attachments

#215 ·
An unexpected Stanley #4 type 11

So my wife says to me this sunday morning, "I've got some cleaning to do" which is my queue to get lost. Thinking its a nice sunday afternoon coming and we might want to take a motorcycle ride, I wasn't looking to start any large projects.

In the pile of rust ridden planes looking to be restored was type 11 #4. Now I've got a nice type 11 #4C in my collection of type 11s, so the #4 would fit nicely. The tote was broke in half and the bottom half was totally missing. As I inspected it, it seemed the japanning was intact and other than the tote, it was really in decent shape, so I did a quick cleanup to do a further inspection.

Much to my dismay there was a crack in the mouth behind the blade, or so I thought. I stood pondering my bad miss fortune. Not that was was to worried from a financial stand point, after all the plane was a $5 flea market find, but I was excited to add one more plane to my type 11 group. I almost just put it back together and set it off as a parts plane.

But would that little crack really matter? I don't like re-selling planes with obvious defects, even if i pointed them out, but if it doesn't hurt performance, would it matter, and after all, this was going in my collection.

So as a last minute impulse, I decided to carry on with the restore.

I found a tote with a repair. It looked good and it matched the knob, so it became the chosen one. Some wire brushing, penetrating oil and cleaning and it began to come together.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane

-
My favorite iron, the V logo. It was another reason I decided to proceed, and I'm glad I did.
Wood Bicycle part Bicycle saddle Sports equipment Fashion accessory


Wood Composite material Natural material Bicycle part Hardwood


Plane Wood Shoulder plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane

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-
But then, after it all back together and I'm flattening the sole, I notice the crack starting to disappear. It turned out to be a gouge, not a crack.

-

Rectangle Wood Gas Wood stain Tints and shades


-
And the money shots

_
Wood Tool Hardwood Smoothing plane Staple food


Wood Plane Hardwood Hand tool Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Feather Flooring


Food Ingredient Wood Sheep milk cheese Dish


My Sunday was whole again. No cracks, just a nice Type 11 Stanley #4 Smoother.
 

Attachments

#216 ·
An unexpected Stanley #4 type 11

So my wife says to me this sunday morning, "I've got some cleaning to do" which is my queue to get lost. Thinking its a nice sunday afternoon coming and we might want to take a motorcycle ride, I wasn't looking to start any large projects.

In the pile of rust ridden planes looking to be restored was type 11 #4. Now I've got a nice type 11 #4C in my collection of type 11s, so the #4 would fit nicely. The tote was broke in half and the bottom half was totally missing. As I inspected it, it seemed the japanning was intact and other than the tote, it was really in decent shape, so I did a quick cleanup to do a further inspection.

Much to my dismay there was a crack in the mouth behind the blade, or so I thought. I stood pondering my bad miss fortune. Not that was was to worried from a financial stand point, after all the plane was a $5 flea market find, but I was excited to add one more plane to my type 11 group. I almost just put it back together and set it off as a parts plane.

But would that little crack really matter? I don't like re-selling planes with obvious defects, even if i pointed them out, but if it doesn't hurt performance, would it matter, and after all, this was going in my collection.

So as a last minute impulse, I decided to carry on with the restore.

I found a tote with a repair. It looked good and it matched the knob, so it became the chosen one. Some wire brushing, penetrating oil and cleaning and it began to come together.

Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane


Smoothing plane Plane Scrub plane Jack plane Rebate plane

-
My favorite iron, the V logo. It was another reason I decided to proceed, and I'm glad I did.
Wood Bicycle part Bicycle saddle Sports equipment Fashion accessory


Wood Composite material Natural material Bicycle part Hardwood


Plane Wood Shoulder plane Smoothing plane Scrub plane

-
-
But then, after it all back together and I'm flattening the sole, I notice the crack starting to disappear. It turned out to be a gouge, not a crack.

-

Rectangle Wood Gas Wood stain Tints and shades


-
And the money shots

_
Wood Tool Hardwood Smoothing plane Staple food


Wood Plane Hardwood Hand tool Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Feather Flooring


Food Ingredient Wood Sheep milk cheese Dish


My Sunday was whole again. No cracks, just a nice Type 11 Stanley #4 Smoother.
Gotta love that Don. Type 11s are my favourites.
 

Attachments

#227 ·
Taber Plane Company-New Bedford Ma.

Once in a while, it takes some time to stumble onto the information to tie it together. What is it you say? Well sometimes it depend.

A few month ago I bought this plane because it was cheap, and it just looked cool.

More pictures and info here, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/09/13/taber-plane-companynew-bedford-ma/

Brown Smoothing plane Wood Wood stain Hardwood


Gas Wood Circle Metal Concrete


Wood Saw Flooring Floor Carpenter


Plane Smoothing plane Wood Jack plane Rectangle


It took some time to stumble onto information that led what I had. It seems this was manufactured by the Taber Plane Co. in New Bedford Ma. in the late 1800's. Information on the company is still being sought and seems a little scarce.
 

Attachments

#228 ·
Taber Plane Company-New Bedford Ma.

Once in a while, it takes some time to stumble onto the information to tie it together. What is it you say? Well sometimes it depend.

A few month ago I bought this plane because it was cheap, and it just looked cool.

More pictures and info here, http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/2012/09/13/taber-plane-companynew-bedford-ma/

Brown Smoothing plane Wood Wood stain Hardwood


Gas Wood Circle Metal Concrete


Wood Saw Flooring Floor Carpenter


Plane Smoothing plane Wood Jack plane Rectangle


It took some time to stumble onto information that led what I had. It seems this was manufactured by the Taber Plane Co. in New Bedford Ma. in the late 1800's. Information on the company is still being sought and seems a little scarce.
Handsome plane.
 

Attachments

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