I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
Don, thanks for sharing that and with such a clear drawing. I have a lamp that I make that requires really thin strips and this is a better idea than the jig I use to cut the strips.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I would recommend a slight hold down as David suggests.
Also I think it should not straddle the fence. If it is an upside down 'U' (as I think it is) it would have to be made in a way that would never jam or stick as it is slid down the fence. This would at least require Teflon tape or such, and being made quite precisely. And if it was made loose, it would loose precision. I would like it better if it would just press against the blade side of the fence.
But I do like this idea of not moving the fence for repetitive cuts.
Steve
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.
The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.
This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.
Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.
I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.
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