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No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

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3K views 11 replies 10 participants last post by  a1Jim 
#1 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
 

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#2 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
Don, that's really cool; a different approach to cutting strips than the jigs I've seen that mostly are located to the left of the blade.
 

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#3 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
Don, thanks for sharing that and with such a clear drawing. I have a lamp that I make that requires really thin strips and this is a better idea than the jig I use to cut the strips.
 

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#4 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
doesn't it need a disposable hold down strip
over the top too
to keep the pieces from jumping up and out ?
 

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#5 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
If I understand it, this is similar to MaFe's, which I've had favorited for future ripoff (no pun intended):

 

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#6 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
I like the way you think.
 

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#7 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
Good Idea.
I do see a limitation when it comes to thin but tall stripes like 2" tall where the piece would not have support.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
Hey Don,

I would recommend a slight hold down as David suggests.

Also I think it should not straddle the fence. If it is an upside down 'U' (as I think it is) it would have to be made in a way that would never jam or stick as it is slid down the fence. This would at least require Teflon tape or such, and being made quite precisely. And if it was made loose, it would loose precision. I would like it better if it would just press against the blade side of the fence.

But I do like this idea of not moving the fence for repetitive cuts.
Steve
 

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#9 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
good idea :)
 

Attachments

#10 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
I see the advantage of having a hold down and I'll add it.
Haven't had any jump up yet, though.

ddwwb
 

Attachments

#11 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
good to hear don

looks like a better way to dothat

i use the left side rig
but it does make slightly different pieces
depending on how hard the fence comes to it
 

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#12 ·
No moving ripfence strip cutting jig.

Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Table


I did this image in SketchUp to be certain it was as clear as I can make it.

The jig straddles the ripfence and has a replacable push finger, shown in red, that shoves the work into the saw blade. The image shows the main parts of the jig in green and a finished cut piece on the other side of the blade.

This configuration also keeps the cut pieces well away from the fence so no kickbacks can occur.

Rather than continuously moving the ripfence after each cut, the jig keeps the work spaced perfectly and produces exactly the same thicknesses time after time as long as the workpiece is held against the side of the jig.

I recommend the use of a 'push stick' as a way to hold the work piece when it starts to get smaller, just to make sure your fingers stay out of trouble. I use this jig to make strips for anything that requires a number of pieces the same width.

ddwwb
Interesting idea . Do you have photos of the actual jig.
 

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