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|05-29-2015 04:54 AM||
I have a 10” Delta contractors saw (36-679) that I cranked down a little too hard on the tilt wheel trying to get it to a perfect 0 degrees and ended up breaking the roll pin in the tilt shaft. It seems the part number 1246147 is obsolete with no replacement. One side of the broken roll pin has a hole in the end and is flush with the sha...
|04-26-2015 07:59 AM||
Leather for mallet faces? - 15 replies
I’m building some joiner’s mallets and need some leather for the faces. The suggested leather seems to be heavy duty (6oz 1/8”). Having never bought leather before, what sources do you guys use to buy this stuff from?
|02-03-2015 09:44 PM||
Waterstones, what to get and what to flatten with? - 16 replies
My primary sharpening method right now is my Worksharp 3000. It’s great (and fast) with my chisels but I think I want to add some waterstones as well, mainly to polish better but also for card scrapers and other things the WS isn’t great with. I was looking at 1000/4000/8000 stones and a diamond plate for flattening.. that’...
|02-03-2015 08:04 AM||
In my user collection of squares I have a new 12” Starrett combination square, an old ~1920’s but still accurate 12” Starrett I think my great grandfather might have taken home from his job at Ford (it’s etched on the blade, with a number), and a similar aged Stanley Sweetheart 6” solid square that’s also sti...
|09-26-2014 07:10 AM||
Best filler to match natural maple? - 3 replies
I did a simple square inlayed maple internal border on the drawer fronts of a cherry dresser I just finished building. The maple inlay is mitered where it meets in the corners. While I went to great effort to get those perfect when I sanded everything flush I had a few tiny little gaps on a couple corners, at worst ~1/64”. Just sanding ...
|09-25-2014 10:14 PM||
Good shop apron, leather? - 7 replies
Does anyone have any suggestions for a good shop apron base on my requirements below? I have a Rockler denim apron now with the cross straps. It’s comfortable but my main issue with it is that dust and little wood particles, particularly the ones you get blasted with working at the table saw, like to stick and embed themselves in the f...
|09-13-2014 06:09 AM||
Cross grain inlay - movement/glue/tips? - 0 replies
I’m inlaying a 1/4” square border 1/2” in on some drawer fronts for a chest of drawers I’m building. This is my first time using doing any inlaying. The dresser is cherry, the inlay soft maple (shop made). Because this is a square border the sides pieces will have to run cross grain across the drawer front. My tallest ...
|08-03-2014 07:09 PM||
I’m building my first frame and panel dresser/changing table out of solid wood (cherry) soon. I’ve done plywood case goods and dividerless solid wood case goods before which was at lot less challenging than this will be. I’m in the phase of figuring out all the jointery I’m going to use and have lots of questions: Ove...
|07-30-2014 07:43 AM||
Suggestions on how to finish a cherry crib? - 9 replies
I just finished a 3-in1 crib/bed build for my first: Now comes the scary part, I need a finish. The whole thing is built from solid cherry, which I’ve never built anything of this scale out of before. I’m concerned about the blotching, the color variations from board to board becoming more obvious as the wood oxidizes with a...
|07-14-2014 08:45 AM||
Good tricks for sanding inside corners? - 10 replies
Does anyone have any good tricks for sanding inside corners (and well)? I already know well enough to pre-sand everything prior to assemble and avoid having to sand them at all, but there are cases where you just can’t avoid it, re-finishing etc. In this particular case I have a headboard/footboard with shoulderless tenons going into mor...
|07-05-2014 06:21 AM||
Making face glued seams disappear? - 1 reply
I faced glued some parts together for a project I’m building. After running the glued up pieces over my jointer the seams came out almost perfect, but I can still see the hairline joint line in a few places. Before I sand anything I want to make that disappear completely. Does anyone have have any good tricks for doing that? What I wa...
|07-02-2014 05:59 AM||
Grain orientation/pattern on crib slats? - 1 reply
I’m building a crib for my first using the 3-in-one plans from Wood magazine. I’m using all solid cherry. It should end up looking something like this: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/73859 but with a straight headboard. For the headboards and footboards I have some nice grain patterns. The legs I ripped the sides off my flat s...
|06-13-2014 03:20 AM||
I’m in the process of planning out a new dresser build. The whole thing will be made out of cherry, with simple flat drawer fronts. I’ve never done an inlay before and I was planning on dressing things up a lot by adding a maple border around the inside of the drawer fronts. As it sits now the cherry just isn’t dark enough (...
|04-21-2014 05:18 PM||
Fold up or break down workworking bench design? - 15 replies
I really need a formal woodworking bench with dog holds and vises etc. Right now I have counter space and space on my table saw/outfeed table that I make do with, but clamping options are poor. Larger pieces I do assembly directly on the cement floor. Unfortunately, I have no room in my shop for a fixed bench. All my tools are on mobile bases...
|01-19-2014 01:04 AM||
I got a whole box of old wooden body planes, probably 20 on them with various profiles most marked Sandusky tool company. They were being stored in a cardboard box with peanuts and plastic and some water leaked in without being noticed for a little while and now there is some white mold spots on them. Otherwise there seems to have been no dama...
|01-16-2014 08:09 AM||
I’ve been building a frame for a bathroom mirror in my parents new winter condo out of cherry of some cherry molding they picked up. They told me they’d taken taken a drawer from their vanity (also cherry) to Sherman Williams and got it color matched and had already picked out an oil based finish. I built the mirror and applied s...