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141 posts in 2072 days
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11405 posts in 2306 days
#1 posted 01-11-2012 01:29 AM
First nice job. Second I would not weld anything to it. Two reasons. The heat may warp the top and to get it flush the methods to get the weld down to flush will lower the surrounding area. Its not near enough to the blade to cause any interference. I would use some sort of epoxy to fill it. But that is my opinion.Great job on the cleanup.These other guys should have a better answer.
-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com
#2 posted 01-11-2012 01:47 AM
@ Superdav721 – Thanks Sir, I’ve read through a few blogs to see what worked for you. I was even tempted to use the ol’ electro on her. I just couldn’t justify using the tub to the ol’ lady…lol! (Just kidding!). I ended up using a whole lot of elbow grease, WD40, and steel wool to clean her up. Let’s just say that I have found a new respect for power tools and moisture along the way… The major reason I wanted to fix these holes is because they have small burs on their outside perimeters that snag boards (Dangerous for an inexperienced, one man operation like mine). I’ve been told to keep sandpaper off my list of “easy fixes” (You have mentioned this as well in your post). I’m just taking my time with this project because I want to learn the most I can from this experience. Also, my house isn’t wired for any 220V Outlets yet (Bummer!). As always, thanks for your advice. I’m totally taking it on this one…epoxy it is!
209 posts in 2111 days
#3 posted 01-11-2012 02:23 AM
tape up the bottom of the hols like duct tape or something like that and use epoxy or even bondo would work. duct tape at the bottom should work to keep it in there.
2136 posts in 2575 days
#4 posted 01-11-2012 02:35 AM
Fantastic job on the table! The holes look more cosmetic to me and I would steer away from any major fixes. The burrs could be handled by needle files. Small strokes that might be a little time consuming but should only affet the target area.
My 2 pennies,
-- There is little that is simple when it comes to making a simple box.
66 posts in 1848 days
#5 posted 01-11-2012 02:37 AM
Epoxy and a small round file for the burrs
-- But hon I need this tool.......
1158 posts in 2725 days
#6 posted 01-11-2012 02:41 AM
I would use JB weld, its made for just such a job.
15673 posts in 2472 days
#7 posted 01-11-2012 02:49 AM
I just caught up on the story here … late to the party as always. First off .. nice score! Second i wouldnt even mess with the holes. The only time a piece of wood will touch them would be if your cutting sheet stock like plywood. Build yourself a good sled and they never be an issue. But then again its your saw and youve treated er well so far so as you wish.
-- rock, chalk, jayhawk
1526 posts in 1971 days
#8 posted 01-11-2012 02:53 AM
The holes would drive me CRAZY with my OCD :-).
I’d go epoxy, bondo or JB Weld on them.
Nice job on the sprucing her up!
1507 posts in 2275 days
#9 posted 01-11-2012 03:53 AM
Those holes were for a powerfeed. Sure you ll never mount one. Just saying, before you fill em.
354 posts in 1941 days
#10 posted 01-11-2012 04:08 AM
Is looking good… Those holes, why does power feeder come to mind? Why bother filling them? A rat tail file and a lot of light easy strokes, sort of countersink slightly. If you decide you must fill, keep in mind you are only really concerned with the top surface being smooth. If you tape the bottom and fill form the top, you might make a mess of on the top, and that is the part that matters.Good Luck with however you decide to go.
1820 posts in 2703 days
#11 posted 01-11-2012 01:30 PM
JB weld will fill them and still be easy to remove if you ever need the holes. I’d cover the holes with clear plastic tape, clamp a backer board over the holes, then turn the saw upside down and build up the JB Weld from the bottom and you won’t have to sand the top. Your repair should be flush once you pull off the tape.
-- Hal, Tennessee http://www.first285.com
73 posts in 2104 days
#12 posted 01-11-2012 01:40 PM
Why fill them, they could be put into great use. Make a angled board to screw down with those holes and then add a feather board ,adjustable to the blade for ripping . When not using feather board jig, use a counter sink in hand held drill and just lightly hit holes to get rid of burr. Another idea, use to make a guard for over top of blade,arm up and over with clear plexi so you can still see blade, should be out of the way for most work, unless ripping or crosscutting wide plywood.
1204 posts in 2356 days
#13 posted 01-11-2012 01:41 PM
Drag a 6 inch scale over the holes to make certain that you have burrs protruding upward and its not just the rough edges of the holes that are snaging material. Then ditto earlier comments on filling with JB weld, Conley weld or epoxy. Conley weld has metal particles as a filler, don’t know about JB weld.
-- Sawdust and shavings are therapeutic
939 posts in 2258 days
#14 posted 01-11-2012 02:27 PM
I would clean up the holes. Then counter sink the upper face and fill the hole with a bolt. If you at some time in the future wish to use the holes. It will be as easy as removing the fasteners, and installing whatever tool you need to mount to the top of the saw.
That’s my 2cents.
528 posts in 1931 days
#15 posted 01-14-2012 04:34 AM
Looks like someone had a power feeder on there at one time. I would not mess with the holes personally, but it would tend to drive me nuts. doesn’t look like they would interfere. just file flush. With a sled, you wont even see them most of the time.
-- Crashn - the only thing I make more of than sawdust is mistakes
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