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7K views 31 replies 16 participants last post by  jbertelson 
#1 ·
Sanding for an end grain board.

When making end grain cutting boards, it is imperative to have flat, square and evenly thick pieces.. the initial milling for the first glue up is easy…here is a video of milling timber


Once glued up…


There may be a small movement and you need to sand the glued up board flat…

Here is the secret... I found that if I crosscut the pieces first, the sanding is simple…

Sand on the drum sander on one side and then flip and adjust the height by 1/4 turn and sand again… this is easier on the work and on the drum sander… just make sure that you number each piece…so they go back in order and orientation…


The sanding of a small piece like this is far simpler than trying to sand the whole blank..

Having all the pieces smooth and even makes the secondary glue up so much easier too.


Just a matter or squaring the ends and sanding…


Even in a two color piece like this the grain orientation is very important…to incorporate the flow…

Once the purple heart has oxidised back to purple I will apply several coats of Oil…
 
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#2 ·
Cool Tips…

What do you do if you do NOT have a drum sander?

... but have a thickness planer?
 
#4 ·
and even with a drum sander - you have to have a really good one, like Larry has. with mine you will get a slight capping at the ends as it has only one roller. its very small but when glueing up the crosscut it shows bigtime
 
#5 ·
For those with a thicknesser, you can just go and flatten the whole blank…
I use this method because.
A. I have a drum sander…
B. I do not want to loose too much thickness of the blank using a thicknesser…
Hope this is of help to some…
 
#9 ·
Fantastic board and good tip for people who have fully equipt workshop.
By the way, Larry, I'd like to ask this question. Why do people prefer endgrain cutting board to flat one? Dose it have something to do with sharpening the knife, cleaning the board after using it or any other reason than the beauty of the endgrain reflection?
 
#13 ·
Sam, there are a few reasons..

they look good
they are kinder on your knives,
they don't mark as easily…

If I may use the analogy used by Marc Spagnuolo… imagine a paint brush held horizontally [Like Long Grain] and using a knife to cut across.. you will damage the bristles [or grains]... and now have the paint brush vertical [Like End Grain] and when you cut the bristles [grains] part and allow the knife to enter the brush… [or board ] and when you remove the knife the bristles [grains] come back together… no damage…
I hope this is of help
 
#17 ·
this is why i made my drum sander. this is the only way i make boards now so much easer than thicknesser
by the way marc spagnuolo's analogy on end grain boards was taught to him by david marks. just giving credit where it is due
great looking board simple yet elegant
 
#19 ·
funny i was trying that same analogy 2 weeks ago at a craft fair to a younger customer and thy could not figure how a broom from (drinking straws) would work. all i could do not to laugh
i will use yours with the paint brush form now on
 
#21 ·
Cutting rods or dowels.

The handles of the sushi boards are attached to the main board but brass rods… actually brass welding or brazing rods…

To cut these to the same length… yes another jig..

This jig is fairly basic and can be adapted to cut dowels etc..


Just a scrap of timber with two kerf cuts .. one along the board to capture the rod and one at 90 degrees for the saw.. in this case a hacksaw..

Just push the rod along the groove until it is at the end and then cut… you could have more grooves across the board for different lengths..
 
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