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How to make a endgrain tumbling block butcher block board!

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351K views 58 replies 46 participants last post by  BlueJay429  
#1 ·
How to make a endgrain tumbling block butcher block board!

Hi guys ,, I had a request to make a tutorial with regards the endgrain Tumbling Block Design.
First off,.., You need to decide the size of the blocks…. for this example I used 1" stock… Or something similar.. actually just over .. once dressed.

Set the blade of the table saw to 60 degrees.. a bevel box makes this simple
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I use the INCRA fence system so it is easy to rip bevels off side of the blade.
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Once the bevels are ripped measure the length of the bevel and move the fence that distance plus the kerf and 1mm [ 1/25 "] for the variation of the kerf due to the angle. For my diamonds, the fence was moved 1 13/16 " to cut 1 9/16" Bevel rip again. Do this for all three timbers.. I did it twice for all three…
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I glue all three different timber diamonds together and clamp.[ ensure the grains of all three are perpendicular to each other..].
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,

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then cut to the required depth/ length and then glue up.
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,
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.With different size stock.
Any questions PM me.
 
#2 ·
Hi Larry this was very informative

all I need now to do this is

The wood
A Saw that tilts
A bevel Box
an incra fence system

yeah i think that just about covers it

Hey maybe you just want to ship me yours

Thanks

Hooky
 
#8 ·
I know this sounds strange, but I just made one today! (well, I saw your prototype in one of the earlier posts).

I don't have neither the bevel box nor the incra, so i'll give my 2c:

to set the blade to 30/60 degrees (depends if you look at the half full or half empty), i cut a block on my mitre saw 30 degrees. as the mitre saw is pretty accurate and you can cut a 2×4, you get pretty good reference.

I did the math beforehand. first, the first cut to remove the end of the board (my blade also tilt toward the fence, so this is a tricky cut). now, measure the length of the beveled cut. the fence should be 1.5 times this length from the base of the blade. it pays to mill an additional piece of pine scrap to test that your piece is good (all sides should be equal).
 
#18 ·
Three more tips :
1. make sure you can cut the "hexagonal sausage" using your mitre saw or crosscut sled in one pass. its very hard to get accurate results when cutting in two passes. believe me…
2. it pays to pass the "hexagonal sausage" through thicknesser. just light pass to level everything. you need to repeat the pass on 3 sides (its best to number them, its very confusing), lower just a bit and repeat on the other 3 sides.
3. leave enough milled "diamond" lumber unglued, so you can complete the pattern nicely
 
#22 ·
Great tutorial Larry. Thanks for sharing this. I plan to give it a go sometime. I have been doing something similar for many years called stick work (small scale stuff). The only real difference is that the diamonds are cross-cuts, so that the long glue joints are end grain. These are made into geo patterns and then sliced off to be used as inlays with the long at the end showing. They can be turned on a lathe for disk shaped inlays or just left with pointy ends. A bad photo example of it can be seen on 'A Gimmicky turning' on my projects page.
 
#24 ·
That is really cool !! thanks for taking the time to post. Having the walk through really helps and makes it look pretty straight forward.

Sitting here in front of the computer doing a mental walk through I'm still not clear on the following:

"Once the bevels are ripped measure the length of the bevel and move the fence that distance plus the kerf and 1mm [ 1/25] for the variation of the kerf due to the angle. For my diamonds, the fence was moved 1 9/16 to cut 1 13/16. Bevel rip again."

A 60 degree blade angle is 30 degrees off of 90. 1 inch thick stock cut at 30 degrees should yield a bevel length of around 1 5/32 inch. I didn't actually cut a piece of wood, just sitting here at the computer I drew a triangle, 1 inch tall on the vertical side, an angle 30 degrees off of vertical, and I get the angled side (the bevel) around 1 5/32. Not even close to 1 9/16 bevel. I'll have to cut a piece and see what I get.

But let's say I did have a bevel of 1 9/16. If the bevel is 1 9/16 I want the horizontal side, the side down on the table saw to also be 1 9/16. So I move the fence out 1 9/16 + the kerf width (1/8 or 2/16) + 1 mm. 1 mm is mostly 1/25 of an inch, lets say close to 1/32 for now. That ought to add up to 1 9/16 + 1/8 + 1/32 or 1 23/32. Still short of 1 13/16.

And I'm wondering if your numbers are transposed, did you mean to say you would move the fence 1 13/16 to get a cut of 1 9/16 ?

I'm sure if I cut some myself the numbers would fall into place. Just trying to do a mental walk through and I'm not able to get your numbers.

Thanks again for the post.
 
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