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#1 ·
Background and history lesson. Welcome to the Wayback Machine!

This entry, the first in the series Workshop Development." is where we get into the wayback machine, and go for a little history lesson. Specifically, how, and why I went from a guy with a garage and some tools, to being a guy with a workshop in progress. Not sure if I will ever be done, but at least it is in progress!

In the beginning there was a garage, Dave saw the garage and said it was good… Hmmm okay maybe a little to grandiose for my posting… Let me try again…

In early 2002, I was in a lousy domestic situation, with one upside, I had just closed on a suburban Houston home, with a garage. Now this garage was on the smallish size, and lacked anything nicer than a structure, a door, a single dual recepticle outlet, and a single bare light bulb, I am guessing for interrogation purposes, because it simply was insufficient for giving any real light to the garage, but it had to do. Due to the lousy domestics, the only "shop" I was able to squeak in was my existing tool box from my prior career as a mechanic, and a simpson strong tie workbench made from 2Ă—4s (free, neighbor was throwing them out after a completed remodel project), a sheet of cheap sheathing grade 3/4" plywood complete with dips, knots, and other fun stuff, Strong ties, and screws. That same bench still serves in my shop today.

Fast forward a mere year and a half, and the domestic issue had completely changed, I got the house (big deal) and the Dog (I know this sounds funny, but he was all I wanted out of the whole deal, and to get away from her…) Now I have a 2 car garage, all to myself.

Now in the time span between getting the house, and getting free of Mrs. mistake, I had acquired a few woodworking related tools, some because they were left in the garage when I bought the house, some because I needed them for home repair, and some because of a rented RV that suffered a broken dinette table, and it was cheaper to build a replacement than it was to get one from the MFG, and nobody could tell the difference. Those tools were a Skill jig saw, a Craftsman 3/8" VSR drill, a Ryobi fixed base router, Craftsman 6 piece bit set, and Wolfcraft cheapie table. Along with the mechanics tools that carried over from career #1, tools given to me by friends as they upgraded, and tools that I acquired when the hardware store I worked in during college went out of business and the boss gave me a box of misc tools that we used in the shop including a Skil circular saw, bench vise, Ace hardware 6" grinder, hacksaw, a mess of window screen spline rollers, box cutters, tape measures, hacksaw blades, and a myriad of drill bits. This was far from a workshop though, this was still a garage with some tools in it.

And so it sat, mostly because I was spending time (and money) pursuing other hobbies, particularly blondes, brunettes, and most importantly red heads… All the while this goofy looking guy with a beard and a plaid shirt would come on every week, enticing me back to the hobby I enjoyed so much as a teen, but have been unable to pursue as an adult… I watched, dreamed, and went out of my skull meeting new people and just having fun…

Needless to say, she happened, a firey red haired angel that got my attention… Time, attention, and finances went to dating, and then moving forward it was obvious we needed to be married, so we busted our hides and did a proper wedding, and honeymoon. You know it's amazing how much Cup O Noodles a guy can put up with for lunches when trying to shovel cash aside for a trip to Cancun… But that is a different story all together…

After the wedding, and the finances returning to normal, my lovely bride noted that I am always tinkering with things, and building this, that or the other thing, and I should put together a shop (Thank God for a wife that grew up with brothers, and a Dad that are tinkerers and craftsmen), so I started, slowly, putting a shop together. At first thinking I was just going to put together something I could stash aside and pull the car into the garage…

Now that car is an F150 super cab 4×4 lifted on 35×12.50 mud tires. Even if it was a 2wd on stock rubber, just fitting the mirrors between the door jambs is a challenge. Why I insisted on wanting to keep the shop small at first I do not know… I had even toyed with the idea of a shop in a dedicated outbuilding, but my HOA restrictions being what they are, meant no shop building big enough for me was going to happen, and even without the HOA, I would never get a building big enough on my little suburban lot.

So what to do about building up a shop? I already had a good amount of stuff stored in the garage, camping, hunting, lawn & garden type stuff. And I did NOT want to be tripping over tents, coolers, and lawn mowers to get to my table saw, and routers…

Well, that will just have to wait for installment #2. There is a reason I made this a series you know! There would be no way anyone would read the history and thought process of my shop all the way through beginning to end. But string y'all along and you might just stay interested…
 
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#3 ·
I too look forward to the rest of your tale. Some pics of the process would be great too. I also have had a wonderfully understanding wife these past 33 years. It's a fair trade she says as she gets most anything she wants built for her. Good luck with your shop and please don't keep us waiting too long between installments! LOL
 
#4 ·
Unfortunately no pics of the nearly bare garage, but pics are forthcoming for the next installment, where I started the shop buildup…
 
#6 ·
Hmmmmmmmmm…......even more like me…..but you have upped the ante. How am I going to keep up?

Fine fix, and from a buddy at that.

So yup, I am hooked. Looking forward to the next entry….......let's see…... great topic…....we all have shops…........

.......you set the anticipation…......perhaps there should be even more tension….....then perhaps you could get sponsors….....(-:

We are in a B&B between Holland and Kalamazoo Michigan. Looking at the weather we think we will head south, maybe take a ferry across Lake Michigan to Wisconsin, if that is possible, probably not. Weather wise…......warmer in Anchorage, Alaska (home, for the benefit of those that don't know me) than here. Oh well, we really like free form traveling, and that's what we are doing.

Jim
 
#7 ·
Congratualations on your new life turnaround.

For guys with cramped garages and a need for space to be multi-purpose I recommend that you look for a used Shopsmith 510 or 520 on Craigs List or eBay. About 40% of Shopsmith owners work in 100 to 200 sq. ft. spaces - can even roll it out in the driveway on nice days.
 
#8 ·
8iowa, I had considered a Shop Smith, but capacity of the tools themselves are problematic. I know a few guys with these working out of 10Ă—12 sheds and they have plenty of room to move!
 
#10 ·
Why the garage anyway?

In my first installment of this series, I noted some of the history, of how I cam around to wanting to build a workshop of my own. Having a supportive wife was the biggest key issue here. I could have built a shop as a bachelor for sure, but having me the right woman, and wanting a family bachelor life just wasn't for me… But I digress…

That garage seemed, at first, an ideal space to do some woodworking. I'd pick up a couple of basic tools, and some wood and get to work right?

I should have known this would be a LOT like most other hobbies, with LOTS of intricacies, and equipment and accessories galore.

Now this originally wasn't a problem. My "shop" was simply a corner of the garage, I used a workbench I had built for auto repair purposes, stowed a job site table saw folded in the corner, had a miter saw on a folding stand that I could attach to a hook on the wall to stow out of the way. Little did I know this was soon going to blossom into all categories of tool, and wood collection…



It was at this point, I had noted that my tool collection, and scrounging activity had grown extensively. I still wasn't well equipped, but I had put in some tools to work with… I had the old Skil circular saw, a Skil jig saw, Ryobi fixed base router in a Wolfcraft router table, a set of Craftsman and a set of Skil router bits, I had recently added a Ryobi job site table saw (BTS21) after doing extensive research, and wanting a BT3100, only to find out that Ryobi / Home Depot quit selling them in the states. I mistakenly thought the BTS21 was the upgrade / replacement. I was WRONG… I also picked up a B&D Firestorm compound miter saw, and folding stand. While the CMS isn't exactly feature rich, it has been dead on accurate, and reliable. I also had a Makita quarter sheet sander a former coworker of mine loaned me 2 days before he quit, I have never been able to find him to give it back to him. Honestly, I HATE this sander but feel bad about throwing out someone elses sander… I've had it since 1995, I think maybe I can chuck it by now… But just in case anyone knows a guy in his late 30s / early 40s named John Ostrow from Houston… I have his sander.




So the small tool collection was starting to build, I also am well equipped with camping gear (I collect camp stoves, particularly backpacking stoves. My favorite to date is the MSR X/GK). So everything from ultralight butane stoves, to 152 quart marine coolers were in the garage, as well as BBQ equipment, lawn and garden equipment and supplies, and such. This simply was NOT going to be enough room… For a while, the camping gear got shoved into the closet, taking up the entire thing, of a spare bedroom LOML and I are working on making into a nursery in hopes we will be able to fill it soon… So in the process of insulating the attic, I have also decked the entire area over the garage. Or more correctly, Re-decked since the original decking was 1/4" pine plywood. No I didn't stutter. 1/4" ply! I replaced it with 5/8" T&G OSB decking. Now all the camping gear, except things like candles, and fuel, are up in the attic…

My original thought was to put a shed out in the yard, a good size one, and move the shop out there as it grew. Well that simply isn't going to happen. Mostly due to HOA restrictions (10×12 maximum size). I could argue the point with the HOA and most likely win due to existing structures over limit within 2 houses of me each way I point… However that 10×12 IS big enough to move all the BBQ, and lawn and garden stuff into, which would free up my garage to retain as a shop. But funds being what they are, I still juggle in and out of the shop…

To top off the rest of the issues I have with the shop space, I got a great deal on the Pressure treated material to replace the back fence that was blown down by Hurricane Ike. Unfortunately a tree stump is where the fence really needs to be. I have been using stump out on this thing with painfully slow success. I haven't checked since last tuesday, but back then I was able to relatively easily sink a dull 3lb spilling maul in halfway to the stump. It should be ready to burn out. Unfortunately being married also means somebody else has plans for my time… And doesn't always communicate those plans… (working on that part…) I have GOT to get this stupid stump burned out, and this fence built… But I digress….

There is so much more to tell, but there is time yet to do it in Lord willing, I will leave you with this now, and welcome you back for my next entry!
 
#16 ·
Starting to fill up, taking up too much space with too little stuff...

In my last posting I ran through some of the issues and thoughts behind keeping the shop in the garage instead of adding a dedicated outbuilding. Boiled down to soup & nuts, a combination of money, space, and HOA restrictions will keep me out of a dedicated shed type workshop, but I will be adding a shed to get the remaining non workshop stuff out of the shop. (Lawn & garden, and BBQ equipment and supplies like charcoal and smoking wood)

About this time, I was starting to get traction, about a year into building the shop. I had a band saw, my lovely bride had bought me a planer, I had picked up a Ridgid oscillating sander and had started putting projects out. Mobile bases and tool stands seemed the thing to do, and plumbing SOME sort of dust collection.

So I had set up, and it was reasonably effective, certainly better than nothing, a Ridgid 12 gallon wet / dry vac with a HEPA filter. I QUICKLY found out just how fast you can jam up a HEPA filter with sawdust. I did some research, and found the Oneida Dust Deputy, which at the time appeared to only be usable on a 5 gallon bucket (are you kidding? I DO own a planer after all!), or the Thien trash can separator baffle gizmo. So I built a Thien based on a 20 gallon trash can. I followed that up with a Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system which has worked exceptionally well except for when it got air leaks, and jammed… I ran a drop to the table saw, several across my workbench, one for the band saw, one for where the router table was on a shop built cart, one for the sander, and one for the planer. It all worked well, but it was spread out, and more tools were coming…



But I was up, and productive, cutting boards, wooden toys, small crosses for an Easter Sunday School lesson sort of hand out for the kids at our church, among other projects started coming out of my shop.

Then the Hurricane happened, both Ike, and the flurry of add ons, and rearrangement…
 
#23 ·
Permanent floor model equipment moves in, dust collection becomes a higher priority.

When we last left off, I had built, what I like to refer to as workshop 1.0. It was up, it was effective, but it wasn't feature rich and lacked the capacity I wanted. The little Ryobi BTS21 was a good saw for what it was, but it wasn't what I wanted, I was wanting to start cutting raised panels and the little 1/4" shank Ryobi router wasn't going to cut it either… I had a lot going on, but lacked a lot as well… Thing were about to change, FAST…

When I put the bench top tools on universal stands and mobile bases, I discovered the extreme limits of the Vermont American drill press jig and got to looking for an honest to goodness real drill press. I had decided on the Ryobi 12" drill press with laser guide. I was literally putting my shoes on to go to Home Depot when on a whim I decided to check Craigslist… I came across a Northern Industrial 16 speed 15 inch floor model 3/4 HP drill press needing some cleaning, and some cosmetic repair (the belt housing was smashed, and it needed paint) listed for $75.00. I called, got to looking at it, tested it out and determined that yes, I could fix this quickly, and easily…. So $75.00 later I had a floor model DP. Some penetrating oil, nylon scrubbers, etc… and some Krylon later, well it doesn't look brand spanking new, but it works that well. The 3-1/8" throw isn't the best, but it is FAR better than the Ryobi. Shortly afterwards I bought a second hand Grizzly DP table from a fellow member of BT3Central.com. The Grizz table didn't hold up to my coastal workshop humidity, but it did serve as an excellent template for a shop made table. And it gave up its hardware for a good cause.



As a late Christmas present to myself for Christmas 2008, in early January 2009 I took a trip to visit another BT3Central member that had bought a big iron saw, and was selling his trusty BT3100. I got a smokin' deal on the saw, and a LARGE collection of accessories and upgrades. But this saw presented some problems for me dust collection wise… My BTS21 had pretty good dust collection, but it did NOT have any sort of zero clearance insert, and any dust that got missed by the blade shround simply dropped to the floor. The BT3100 had 3 fittings, the factory 2.5", a 4" belly pan port to catch the stuff that was falling to the floor, and a 2" port on the shark guard up top. The shop vac system would work great on EITHER the blade shroud, OR the Shark Guard, but certainly not on both, nor would it work all that well on the belly pan. A true dust collector was in order… Harbor Freight to the rescue again!



But let's back up a bit, I am getting ahead of myself… One of the things the BT brought to the table was the ability to table mount a wider selection of routers, with a better selection of bits than would fit through the top of the old Wolfcraft table. After reading up on what everyone is using and why, then looking at my budget it came down to a choice of 3 routers. The Freud 2-1/4 HP (model since forgotten, but it is the one that was being clearanced last Dec - Jan for $99.00), The Hitachi KM12VC, and the Ridgid R2930. The Porter Cables and all looked nice, but were typically priced above my affordability point… I watched prices go up and down, and pounced on a KM12VC for $122.00 thinking I got a deal… I also snagged the MLCS 66 pc 1/2" shank bit set on sale. Not long after getting my first KM12VC, I decided I really wanted a motor, and fixed base dedicated to my router table, and I wanted to go with the M12VC (KM12VC without the plunger base). But that model was never priced all that well. I mean Reconditioned Sales lists them for a good price, but NEVER has them in stock (I have been watching them for nearly a year and a half now, they have NEVER had them available in the entire time I have been watching this item…). I got lucky with Amazon and struck on a second KM12VC for $99.00! So I had my routers, I had most of my bits, including the stuff I had previously picked up, such as a Skil 30pc set 1/4" shank that was a scratch and dent from Lowes. Bad box, good bits, cheap… And a few molding profiles and panel raising bits from MLCS… I was getting fancier and fancier with my work all the time…

Another feature of the BT3100 is the included router accessory table, and fence brackets. Now the Ryobi fence leaves a LOT to be desired, and so soon after setting it up I built a set of fence faces out of MDF, hardboard, and Rockler T track… I am VERY happy with how these work… So in went the BT, and out went the shop built cart, the Ryobi router, and the Wolfcraft table. (No worries, those, and the BTS21 went to a good friend of mine from college…)



Now back to the dust collection subject. My Shop Vac Sawdust Collection system was starting to have some trouble. The way I had ducted it had too many bends, and long shavings out of the planer would jam it up QUICKLY… I never really liked how I was set up, so I started moving things around, combined with the fact that the BT3100, and band saw were now taking up shop space, I started moving things around, and added, with the sale price and coupon of course, a Harbor Freight 2HP DC, with the Wynn filter of course. I initially went with a Thien baffle in the inlet ring of my DC, but decided I didn't like the sound of more solid chunks of wood hitting the impeller, and I wanted to get out of changing the lower bag out quite so often, so I built a pre separator based on a plastic 55 gallon drum. Yes it is big, but shavings and sawdust are nice light and fluffy, even with my bad back, it's no big deal to empty it out. Unless I am working with walnut, I simply up end the thing into my flower boxes. Free mulch! (Which reminds me, I need to redo the mulching on my blueberry bushes!). Now due to the fact that there is still fencing material on the side of the shop I want everything in, my permantent plumbing is just sitting there, waiting to go, including the Lee Valley blast gates, and the pipes. For now, I am simply using a single hose going from machine to machine. The table saw, being a special case, has a single 4" hose that goes to a 4×4x2.5" Wye fitting, that pulls from the blade shroud and belly pan. The shop vac setup pulls from the shark guard. It takes a lot of juice to pull all of that, but it is working pretty well so far! Dust collection using this setup is pretty amazing…



For an air cleaner, I have cobbled together a box fan that has been pretty beaten up and was heading to the trash, found as fine a filtration filter as I could and duct taped it to the back side so that air HAS to go through to get pulled through by the fan blades… So far it has worked fairly well, but is SERIOUSLY ugly… Sorry for the lousy Cell Phone Camera pic…



In the pic above, you can see the Y fitting going to a 4" belly pan and 2.5" blade shroud. I simply move the hose from 4" connection to 4" connection. So far it has worked well enough for me…

I always loved turning when in High School wood shop, and have been fascinated every time I saw Norm Abram turning for a project. I knew I needed a lathe, and with lathes you need, well there is a hole with no bottom… But I guess I should leave you guys with your appetites whetted for my next installment right?
 
#24 ·
As I have said before, I don't have the time and energy to find used stuff. That, and the limited market here in Alaska makes it difficult. If a used item is not available in Anchorage, then it would be nearly impossible to go look at it. So that leaves me with choices from a town of 250,000. I am sure with patience and luck I could come up with stuff but the trade off would be poor. Energy and time are in short supply here, and energy is more crucial than time.

I am continually amazed at how you have constructed a shop with a relatively small bottom line. This series should be an inspiration to those who cannot see how they would have enough money to put a decent shop. If for no other reason, documenting the development of your shop is important.
 
#25 ·
Bringing us up to speed. Almost to where we are today...

In the last installment I think I had gotten to adding the dust collector etc…

Mind you, I am setting this out a little out of order so I can lump certain projects together. For example the adding of the separate Thien separator on the HF DC happened nearly a year after adding the HF DC… But I wanted to put those two projects together because they are related… Now with that bit of info tucked away, shall we continue?

I know somewhere along the line I forgot to mention clamps, clamps, clamps clamps… You see when I originally started, I had a total of 4 clamps, 2 Jorgenson Pony, and 2 Craftsman, all 36", which were unwieldy on smaller projects, and not nearly enough. I added to that number through Harbor Freight sales, and now have the number up to a dozen each of 6", 12", 24" and 36", plus I have added 4 pipe clamps (need more) nearly 2 dozen spring clamps (need more), and 2 band clamps (Christmas gift, need more), not to mention 2 10" hand screws (need more and bigger).

I mention the clamps, as they required one of my first shop projects to be done. A simple cross bar clamp rack that is mounted to the wall. All of it was scrap from other projects, or the stock from projects that were abandoned… (Got part way through and decided the project was a bad idea sort of thing…). Now the clamp rack is actually too small and I need to re-think how to do this. My goal here clamp wise is to have 2 dozen 6" bar clamps, 2 dozen pipe clamps and various pipes, a dozen of the strap clamps, and at least a half dozen 10" hand screws, and a half dozen 16", added to the collection I already have… I am thinking rolling cart, with hanging pegs for the hand screws, and strap clamps.

Outfeed from the table saw, and a proper woodworking workbench have been sadly lacking from my shop since day one, and the design from Fine Woodworking's Getting Started in Woodworking series seemed simple enough to build… And it was, aside from being able to source pine 4×4s, which with any quality was impossible, so I tried Cedar. This was a mistake to say the least. The bench is WAY too floppy for my use. Long story short, I like the idea of this bench, but the base has GOT to be updated with at least pine. I need the additional mass. I am also disappointed with how flexible the cedar is. I need a more ridgid base… The existing cedar base will be fitted with a top made from cedar 2×4s, and a lower shelf likewise fitted and eonclosed with frame & panel sides, back, and doors, the entire thing coated with BLO, and set in the yard as a potting bench for LOML. Of course after a new SYP frame is built. I figure I will laminate 3 layers thick SYP 2×4s to create the stock for the legs, and use lag bolts instead of those all thread rods and pegs that Fine Woodworking's design used. I am also considering making the entire top from SYP 2x stock to keep it cheap, yet substantial.

Probably the one tool I was most excited about getting was the lathe… I've turned while in high school, and was always fascinated watching wood turning demonstrations in person, and watching Norm do his demos on New Yankee Workshop. I had honestly considered a ShopSmith Mark V in order to get all the big stuff all at once, but decided the capacity offered by individual machines, and the arbor tilting / raising and lowering instead of the saw table made for safer, more effective working conditions for me. So no ShopSmith… What I did do was watch Craigslist and kept missing deals on Jet JWL1236's and its countless clones. I finally hit the timing right with a Harbor Freight coupon and sale on the widely well regarded #34706 Jet clone machine. When I first set it up I had a HUGE amount of pucker factor though. The center points of the spur drive and live center just wouldn't line up for anything. HF customer service wanted me to bring the machine back to swap out, I did a little more digging through the manual, and found where the adjustments for the headstock were (it was aligning the headstock from its rotated position was the problem) and got it dialed in. Now this lathe is a cast iron bed lathe, and weighs about 185lbs, so it is much heavier than midi lathes, but it is FAR llighter than the lathes with cast iron legs. To solve the problem of the lathe dancing around when starting with an out of balance blank, I have set up a shelf on the spreaders of the stand, and set a couple of bags of cement there. I have also drilled holes / cut slots in that shelf for the accessories that came with the lathe…

Well along with the lathe, and everything else came lots and lots of little accessories, chisels, gouges, calipers, hand planes, chisels, etc… I needed storage, and I needed it bad… My first storage solution is a simple 1×2 furring strip framed sheet of peg board holding most of my small hangable tools. Next up came shelving using simple cheap closet shelf brackets, and 3/4" sheathing grade plywood. This farily simple shelf provided me a place to keep my safety and health related items. Ear muffs, safety glasses, respirator, face shield, push blocks, push sticks, and of course the box of disposable shop rags. I used simple broom clips attached to the side to keep my pipe clamps off the floor as well…

Next in line was easily accessible storage for my handheld power tools, just past the first shelf, is a second, longer unit, 6' long to be specific, that houses all of my handheld power tools excluding my Hitachi Routers. (Those will eventually go there after some house cleaning takes place). You see my handheld power tool collection had grown quite a bit and was taking up a LOT of space I didn't have down low. I went to having 2 power drills (a clutch chuck, and a simple keyless chuck model), a biscuit joiner, 4 different hand held sanders, a buffer, a circ saw, a recip saw, a jig saw, a B&D router (bad descision, this thing needs to hit the trash), a B&D rotary tool, and Dremel accessory kit etc…

Below that shelf, I placed my Stack On small parts bins, which went from 1 to 3. I hung my router bit boxes, and made sure I put a garage / shop rated fire extinguisher within easy reach. I also added some ladder hooks, and am holding my folding / telescoping sawhorses on them…

Above my head, I don't think we addresses the issue of light. When I first started, Like I said, I had a single bare bulb fixture, and a garage door opener with a single bulb. Now the garage door opener was dead, and I was not planning on using this space as a garage anyway, so out it went, and the single bulb just wasn't cutting it. I added 2 2 bulb 4 foot shop light fixtures over the original workbench, which worked, more or less, for a LONG time… Just not well. In the last year I have extended the original lighting circuit, to 2 more ceiling outlets (there was originally the one for the garage door opener). I added 4 more shop light fixtures for a total of 6. They are arranged so that they are 4' in from each wall, and the center row is at the middle of the garage, arranged in 2 columns of 3 rows. I also have added a Rockler magnetic base adjustable neck task lamp with a 100w equivalent CFL that I magnet to the tool I want extra task light for, most recently it was plopped on the band saw…

You know, an uninsulated garage workshop, with south facing doors in Texas is a real roaster in summer, and a meat locker in winter… Guess I should do something about that huh? Guess that will wait until my next installment!
 
#26 ·
I built a workbench on cedar 4X4s with drawers underneath. The top is a very heavy solid core door found in a surplus materials warehouse for 5 bucks. It's on casters as is everything else in my shop. My outfeed on the table saw is a table top from IKEA. They have adjustable legs that are high enough for such an application. You might click on the signature pic at left. This is a basement shop.
 
#28 ·
Looking toward the future. Dust collection...

As you, gentle readers have found… I have a Harbor Freight 2HP Dust Collector. Not a perfect machine, but certainly capable of sucking up dust, and keeping it out of the air… And it is quite capable of being hooked up to a ducting system, particularly in a shop as small as mine… My biggest issue is that I don't want pipe size to strangle it. Now the machine is capable of supporting 5" ducting, but… Well have you tried to find 5" duct?

I have found Snap Lock 5" reasonably affordable-ish… However fittings appropriate for dust collection have been challenging to find…

My design, is to put all the dust producing machines, that possess some measure of dust collection along the east wall, and center of the shop. One main trunk feeding branch circuits, with shortest possible runs of flex hose… My idea here is to run the single main line along the east wall, using 5" snap lock, or even Spiral pipe if I can afford it, then break off into a 5×5x4 wye to feed the branches, controlled by Lee Valley 4" self cleaning blast gates.

I guess this is more of a question than anything else…

Is this feasable? The sketchup shown was worked with the idea of just running 4" S&D, I would really like to take advantage of the extra inch of duct if possible…

 
#29 ·
I don't see why it wouldn't work. The question I would ask is if the blast gates are automatic gates or manual? If they're manual I would think you would want them closer to the machine so you wouldn't have to bend so far. I myself have considered setting my ducting on the floor against the wall.
 
#46 ·
Dust collection and air cleaning continued.

Okay so the discussion / future planning of dust collection really kind of muddied up the waters. I still think I would be better off coming out of the DC, and separator with 5", and then reducing at the Wye to 4" going to the tool. My biggest concern is providing enough air flow to pull from BOTH the top, AND bottom of my table saw. I MAY just end up going to the separator and out with 5" to the 5×4x4 Y fitting then into the 4" S&D for the main circuits, and reducing to a 2.5" after a blast gate to feed off of the Shark Guard… If that bombs, then I will have to figure it out… Now I just need to get up off my butt, get some 5" hose, a couple of short lengths of 5" metal pipe, and get to work modding the separator for it.

Not sure if I have even mentioned an air cleaner for my shop yet. So far it has been an old Lasko 20" box fan I picked up years ago when my A/C in the house conked out, and I needed to move some air until the A/C guys fixed the system… It had seen a few too many years knocking around here and there, to the garage, back to the attic etc… until the handles and stuff got bashed off of it, and it was about to hit the curb on trash day, when I decided to duct tape a Filtrete Allergen filter to the intake side, and tape up any holes so as to force air through it… So far so good… Except I should have used a coarse filter like a fiberglass mesh on the intake, and THEN the Filtrete on the output so as to insure no unfiltered blowby… I know this isn't a scientific measurement, but I can tell you that after running the fan / filter gizmo for 2 hours, no visible floating dust remains in a flashlight beam in the shop… I have mentioned this elsewhere, I might as well mention it here. If anyone wants to loan, rent, or sell me cheaply a Dylos or similar air meter, I could really use one. I want to know what is going on with my air…

This setup works, more or less. More than less, but not great. I have been wanting a proper ceiling mount air cleaner for years. After checking out dozens of models, and eliminating most over cost issues (Hey I have GOT to be able to afford it right?) I had a few to choose from. Most did not offer the capacity, filtration level, or timer whatever, that I wanted. I was looking for an AC blower motor, when I found the Grizzly G0572. Now that will fit the bill… So change gets tossed into the coin jar as it were, and I am saving up for it. Now if I manage to get my hands on a right size AC blower, and figure out how to do the timer on a budget thing, I will still build my cleaner. But this is a good option if the other stuff doesn't fall into place…

So now that I have my shop air handled cleanlines wise… I need to think about making it tolerable temperature wise… What to do? I mean aside from more box fans, or open the garage doors? (Not a good option due to noise and neighbors…) Guess you will have to wait until my next installment…
 
#52 ·
The plan moving forward.

Now at times, it may seem like my shop progress is going ahead kind of willy nilly, with no plan, which is anything but the truth. It may not be a FIRM plan, or even a GOOD plan, but I DO have a plan…

Now this plan is flexible, within certain limits of reason. Since I am limited by space, and the amount of tools, equipment, and supplies I am dealing with, for a broad range of projects, not just woodworking…

Now mind you, many of the steps in this plan are dependent upon OTHER projects or steps, and / or budget (need to BUY the stuff to do the project, or pay for the permit, hire the job, rent a storage unit etc…)

The steps to my plan moving forward are…

#1. Remove the fencing material from the shop to free up space. This means I have to finish burning out the stump, and building my fence… This will literally free up nearly half the space in the garage / shop.

#2. Install 2 remaining shop light fixtures, and patch any unneeded holes in ceiling sheet rock. Finish insulating south west overhead door.

#3. Remove, disassemble, and box up the white plastic shelving units. Put them on Craigslist or donate them to Habitat or something. I was going to use them in a shed, but decided that plywood and 2Ă—4 shelving would be MUCH stronger, and more likely to hold what I want to store without flexing or breaking.

#4. Rent storage unit, move EVERYTHING from shop except building fixtures to storage unit.

#5. Pull permits, remove EVERYTHING from west, south and east walls, including sheet rock. Install sub panel, and circuits, get inspection. etc…

#6. Once energized, insulate and re-rock walls. South wall, space between doors will need some cosmetic wood repairs at this time, to accomodate A/C ducting. (Planning on using a portable A/C / heat unit to avoid any code or HOA problems, ducting it through this space to avoid going through brick.)

#7. Epoxy coat floor. I am still going to be using the Craftsman Anti Fatigue mats at each of my major workstations, but want the ease of cleanup, and creater contrast a coated floor provides…

#8. Paint walls and ceiling bright white.

#9. Install compressed air, and dust collection plumbing, air compressor, and dust collector setups. Compressed air plumbing is still undecided, but for a while, my DC plumbing is going with my original plan of re-using my 4" S&D pipe and fittings.

#10. Install lumber, and tool stacker racks.

#11. Build clamshell cabinet I designed in Sketchup. This cabinet is 6' long, 18" deep, and 24" tall. It is designed to have overhead storage for my hand held power tools, provide storage for 4 39 drawer Stack On small parts bins, provide router bit and accessory storage (most of it anyway), and provide storage for hand tools such as saws, hand planes, measruing and marking tools etc… Mount to west wall close to water softener system.

#12. Modify wall workbench to have uprights on the rear that reach 6' 6" to allow an upper shelf for more storage, and provide mounting surface for peg board. Also create dropped middle section to convert it into a miter station. Pre drill top on right hand side for machinists vise (to be held down by bolts with wing nuts) and left hand side for yet to be purchased mortiser mounted the same way.

#13. Move contents of storage unit into shop, and arrange per my sketchup design.

#14. Move non shop stuff that I CAN out of the shop. Part of my fence build includes a rack, and a pipe hoop to lock my canoe to. Move the canoe out…

#15. Finish build of wide drum sander.

#16. Pull permits as needed and build a garden shed to move the lawn and garden, and BBQ stuff out so that all that is in the shop is shop stuff…

Now this plan is likely to get tweaked a little bit here and there as things kind of go, and I discover something that doesn't work as well as I would like, or funds are too thin or whatever…
 
#58 ·
Pondering replacing the 10" CMS with a slider, or a RAS. HELP ME DECIDE PLEASE!!!

The small capacity of my 10" non sliding compound miter saw has been on my nerves for quite a while now. Especially when doing outdoor projects where I tend to cut a lot of 4×4 lumber, and any idea of crosscutting stock wider than about 4" or maybe 5" if I am lucky, is just shot out the door. Most of the time it's fine, but there are more than a few occasions where the lack of capacity had me trying to figure out a way to accurately guide a circular saw, in 2 different cuts to get through my cut. I am NOT happy with the results to say the least…

So I have been sitting on a Harbor Freight coupon, $109.00 for the 12" sliding compound miter saw. Not a great saw, but not as awful as the HF haters would have you believe. Reviews are for the most part positive. And I have realistic expectations of the tool.

But I keep coming across Radial Arm Saws on Craigslist that are taunting me to buy them. I have used a sliding CMS before, but never even laid hands on a RAS, and I understand they can be dangerous beasts to the uninitiated. So the questions are…

With my budget, $150.00 max, would I be better off buying a used RAS, and if so, how would I go about learning how to safely use it? Or would I be better off with the HF slider and buying the extended warranty?

My concern with older equipment is poor maintenance by prior owners, and around here, RAS's seem to get the snot beaten out of them. Nice units are few and far between… Most of what I see on the market appears to be 1970s and 1980s vintage Craftsman models. There have been a few really nice 1960s Craftsman and DeWalt units in the price range in the past. If they are that much better made, easy to fix up I am more than willing to wait a while and keep plugging away with my small CMS…

What say you LJs. Is old equipment really worth fixing up, and is a CMS as dangerous as people say they are?
 
#59 ·
I would replace it with an old RAS. I really don't like that the Sliding Compound Miter saws don't have a big enough cut area to cut wood. The table is to small. If you get a RAS you can have a huge cutting table and the arm pulls further then the new Sliding Miter saws.
My 2 cents…

Thanks, Michael Frey
Portland, OR

FREY WOODWORKING INC.
 
#81 ·
The new saw decision has been made. The winner is...

Okay so I did a lot of calling around on RAS' in my price range, and to be blunt, they were TRASHED. Or too danged small for my needs. There was one old DeWalt 12" out there, that had the capacity, and everything was there, but it was so badly rusted it would take me a year and a ton of money to fix what was left to rot…

So before it expired, my coupon and I went to Harbor Freight, where they had a stack of the #98194 12" Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser. Mind you, the laser is pointless for me, but that's another story all together…

Now mind you, this IS a Harbor Freight tool, and I would be out of my ever lovin' mind if I got the thing without the warranty. So I snatched the 2 year extended plan for an extra $19.00. Cheap insurance if you ask me.

I also did measure the entire distance front, to the back of the slide rails with the head slid all the way back, and it measures 28" to the front of the casting where the front bolts mount. (the table protrudes). In order to allow SOME room behind for a DC hood, I will want my mounting surface to be 30" deep. Now the bench that will be converted to a miter saw station, is 24" deep. I will need to bump out the miter saw shelf to 30". Good thing to know. For the most part, this is not a problem as I have 4' between this bench, and the workbench / table saw outfeed table.. I am somewhat considering actually bumping out the entire bench to that depth, but that would mean I would need to make the front legs longer. This is the bench that sits on the 2" lip in my shop. Not a huge deal… It's just 2×4s…

So with the new purchase, I REALLY need to step up my efforts to get my 10" non slider out of my shop.

Anyone want to buy a good condition Firestorm 10" miter saw?
 
#86 ·
LOTS of shop cleanup, and improving dust collection at the miter saw...

This weekend LOML did something bit different, she more or less gave me all the time I needed to actually get things done in the shop. What is doubly frightening is that after cleaning, organizing, sweeping, and tossing out a full 64 gallon trash container, and 2 contractor bags full of shavings, debris, and unrelated trash, I still have a LONG way to go before my shop is actually anything close to clean… I simply let it get too dirty to be a good thing… But with projects on hold, and shop cleanup / setup being put as a priority, I can at least take what time I do have and concentrate on the shop like I have never done before…

Along with all that cleanup came some rust removal on the band saw table, topped off with a good waxing, and a minor dust collection improvement on the sliding miter saw… Now mind you, normally I just take the thing outside and let the chips fly, but that is not all that workable this time of year. I went to Home Depot for some other items (that I was unable to locate) but I ended up finding the perfect small shop vac hose to large shop vac hose adapter, that fits SNUGLY on to my sliders dust port. And it is close enough in the shop to the shop vac / Thien separator that I just plug the hose in and go… So far so good, combine that with a respirator, and I should be good to go for winter woodworking.. But when the weather turns better, I am back to letting the chips and dust fly!

I also picked up a few stamped steel shelf brackets, and I will be, as soon as it dries up some, picking up some 3/4" MDF that I can cut in to some shelves to mount above the rollup doors for infrequently used items, so that I can free up storage space at eye level…

I know it won't last long, the having time dedicated to shop cleanup, but LOML does seem to understand the value of a clean and organized space, particularly since I am unburying a lot of HER gardening goodies… So maybe, just maybe I can complete this project, before having another one dropped in my lap!

Here are the pics. And YES the drill press IS leaning. I need to move it somewhere the floor doesn't slope quite so badly…











And the far less than glorious, what is left to be done…





 
#87 ·
I spent all weekend cleaning too. It was such a mess you couldn't even walk around to clean it because it was all trash and scrap old plywood that I would no longer use that had to be thrown away immediately in order to clean. So I took it all to the public landfill which helped a lot with moving forward with the cleaning. Its almost all clean now :)

Good luck with the cleaning. Post some pics if you can :)
 
#95 ·
Not much shop time, but more cleaning is done!

Just as a little side note, the piles of stuff on the table saw, as well as the outfeed workbench are now things of the past. I have another tote that is now nothing but empty space, and another giant trash bag full to the brim. The Strong Tie workbench is down to just misc small stuff. As the old saying goes. Lord Willing and the Creek Don't Rise, the cleanup project should be done by this weekend! This is a HUGE relief for me as this has been nagging at me for a very long time now. This is also something I dread, because once that is done, I move on to cleaning up the home office, which is as bad, if not worse than the shop was…

I still have other projects that will need to take place in here. Everything from the storage cabinets to clean up my hanging storage a bit more, a mobile lumber rack and miter saw station to accommodate sheet goods, and of course, bringing proper power into the shop and insulating the side walls. But at least once it is "clean enough" I can whip out the camcorder and film a good shop tour for you folks (and my insurance company). And since my Dad is on the other side of the country, I would really like him to have a chance to see how my shop is coming along…

LOML was getting somewhat worried about me, what with this terribly cold weather we are having now… Admittedly nothing like what you folks are getting up north, but for us, nasty cold, and all sorts of windy… It was all of 38 degrees outside tonight, and she was ready to fuss at me about coming in from the shop, but when she opened the door and realized the shop was at least 72 degrees, she quietly ducked back into the house… That propane heater isn't trustworthy overnight, but it sure is useful when working… And yes even though I am partially insulated, my shop is drafty enough that I am not worried about make up air. My heater is one of those with a low oxygen shut off that works quite nicely. Actually it is a LOUSY heater to try to use at high elevations…

Anyway, I am rambling on… You will see the completion of my project shortly enough I do hope…
 
#96 ·
Keep nibbling at the pile, and unless you are putting more things on it, you should get through it eventually.

Off to work again, worked late yesterday, but today should be better. Try to catch up on email when I get home. My daughter and family (son-in-law and three grand kids) from Fairbanks, are driving down today, so the house will become a welcome and fun uproar.

Have a good Trash-a-Thon….......

Jim
 
#97 ·
It's clean, now on to other projects!

I pushed too hard to get this done… But it's finished… I have updated my workshop page, which is linked in my signature. So for pics go see that, or, for a more concise pictoral of the shop, see my post on BT3Central.
 
#105 ·
Camcorder is charged up, tripod is ready, need to shoot and edit...

And I am hoping to get my fellow LJs inputs here. I really am starting to like how I have the tools laid out, and although DC tubing adjustments need to be made (blast gates aren't exactly where I want them), I am close enough to call it good for now… So what I have left to be concerned about is power. I have only 1 15 amp outlet (20 amp breaker) in the shop. For the longest time, I have been running an extension cord in to the laundry room to power the tools, and run the DC off of the shop power. (this is not a good solution, but the only one I have for now). So obviously I need more power in the shop. But I need some input on WHERE to put the panel. I know I want a sub panel, but I am not sure about what the restrictions are distances and such for a sub panel.

So as I pan around, shooting from various angles, I am going to do something a little different from what I see in other shop tours, is that I am going to be using the zoom lens a bit more than most folks do… No sense in stopping the camera, walking across the room, and starting up again to get a tighter shot right?

Now I have some concerns about creating this video, since it has been, oh 10 years or so since I have done any serious video editing…

#1. I am on Linux now, no more Mac for me (professional reasons). Does anyone here have any experience using LiVEs, and if so, can you give me some tips on creating slide in text banners like those that you see on news programs?

#2. I am planning on running background music, as well as narration. Should I process the audio tracks separate from the video, or with the video? I simply want to run music fading in and out during transitions, then switch to the narration.

#3. In order to avoid any possible copyright hassles, can anyone point me to a good repository of copyleft / creative commons licensed music that I can use?

Honestly, I have been itching to do some video work for a LONG time, so this is more or less of an excuse to try to hone skills I gained in college, and haven't used much since…
 
#106 ·
mutopiaproject.org provides a collection of sheet music for compositions in the public domain. The source code for the sheet music (lilypond) can also be translated to midi, which are also posted.

If you want to DIY your music but don't play, I have used a linux utility for creating backup tracks in midi, and some people do entire compositions with it:
http://www.mellowood.ca/mma/index.html

If you understand music notation it is not hard to use. Of course, you could also compose in lilypond.

I will check with a buddy that probably knows about video editing on linux.
 
#110 ·
Router table fence V3.0 is underway!

The Ryobi router fence clamps leave a LOT to be desired in the way of stability, so I found myself staring at a pile of 3/4" plywood cutoffs and thinking. I know that's dangerous, but I was doing it… It finally hit me how to build the sliding faces (I have all this T track and it took me this long?).... So I got busy, not really with a plan of any sort sketched out, but rather, with it all in my head. 24" wide x 6" tall, faces adjust on T tracks, and a fixed face that will have T track (For feather boards etc…). The faces will again be tempered hardboard. And as this is a quick and dirty slap together sort of thing, the joinery is nothing fancy at all, simply glue and screws. A "box" surrounding the bit will be fitted with a 4" dust port from Peachtree (been sitting in my parts bins for a couple of years…).

I have the main body of the fence assembled, I need to cut out for the bit opening, and drill for the T-bolt holes. The faces are in clamps with the hardboard glued on. I need to trim the hardboard flush, and run the dados for the T tracks. The box still needs to be assembled, and some trimming on the braces needs to be completed. So I have a little ways to go.

I do need to hurry up and get this particular project done. I have some pending projects that are being held up for a proper router table fence.
 
#111 ·
Pictures….......where are the pictures….....oh well, back to the comics page…............(-:

This morning I ripped a slightly warped 2by4, construction grade, using two feather boards, the default guard and splitter (default except that I have modified it for quick removal and placement, under 30 sec), and the Vega "Finger Saver", which slides along the top of the fence and provides downward and forward pressure. I measured the result, and was on target within less than one hundreth of an inch…......except at one point where the other side of the board narrowed (I am not jointing these). I did this with complete safety. I think I could have done this on my super sled as well, but the setup would have taken more time.

I sometimes wonder if building up the shop has been worth it, but it is at times like this that I realize that I not only am markedly safer, but markedly more accurate. In other words, building shop stuff has been my learning project, and I have become familiar with my saws and other equipment.

I am building a new base for my project table. Made from construction fir and cheap plywood. Nails and glue, and a few screws here and there. It will house the compressor in an enclosed compartment for noise control, and have a place for the nail guns. Just used nail guns for the first time yesterday. Boy is that going to speed me up. I was surprised at the strength of the joints.

Got the new sanders installed and aligned, with DC and power attached. Same for the drill press on its new stand. It is now at the proper height, and is mobile. Got a lot done in the shop this weekend.

Vacation next week, this week will probably be busy….....

Later…....

Jim
 
#123 ·
Finally, the video shop tour.

It's in 2 parts, and I am no videographer, the audio stinks, but here it is in all it's semi glory…

Part 1 of my video shop tour.


Part 2 of my video shop tour.
 
#137 ·
Dust collection, and cat litter. Project in progress...

So I have an old 40 pound cat litter container. You know the kind the litter comes in, hard plastic, looks sort of like a square 5 gallon bucket?

Well it's been sitting under my Strong Tie workbench, been there for years, just waiting for some great idea, or even dim witted idea to come to me and beg to be used… Well tonight, is partially that night…

I have been fine tuning my router wing, and one area is is desperately lacking is in under table dust collection. Now HERE is where the bucket comes into play…

Step #1. Verify the thing gives enough room. (it does).
Step #2. Mark and cut out access door hole. SUPER hard to get straight, which I didn't, no big deal. Not going to use the plastic for the door anyway…
Step #3. Build frame for door from scrap plywood. (Okay I bypassed this step for now, and the next one too!) Install door frame.
Step #4. Cut out scrap plywood door. Yes I have a LOT of scrap 3/8" ply…
Step #5, build turn knob / latch assembly from hardwood scraps. Gee that cherry cutoff from the other day is just right, I think… Oh and 1/4" dowel to give it something to pivot on… Attach to door.
Step #6. Measure and mark hole location for dust port.
Step #7. Cut out dust port hole.
Step #8. Patch bottom of tub where the nubs are where the jigsaw blade went too far… Thank God for duct tape!
Step #9. Dig through dust collection parts scraps for 4" S&D nipple, Fail to find one. Cut nipple from 4" pipe…
Step #10. Glue 4" nipple to main body using clear silicone adhesive caulk.
Step #11. Install hinges on side of door opposite turn knob and on door frame lining it all up nicely so the turn knob will catch on the frame to latch the door.
Step #12. Drill 3 @3/4" makeup air holes in side opposite dust port toward top.
Step #13. Remove nasty plastic plugs that stick on the drill bits.
Step #14. Align to bottom of wing / router table, and install using 3" deck screws.
Step #15. Test fit router.
Step #16 realize you forgot to make a provision for passing the power cord through.
Step #17. Remove door. Measure, mark, cut and sand appropriate slot to pass power cord through.
Step #18. Reinstall door.
Step #19. Once Silicone sealant is fully cured, install 4" flex hose.
Step #20. Pick the nastiest most dust / shaving producing bit you've got, set it up and test, test, test…

Not all steps are complete, or even being done in this order. But I am fairly certain that the steps ALL WILL be undertaken. Even the stupid remembering things AFTER they should have been done steps…

Yep. That's the way it's gonna go… Wish me luck!
 
#138 ·
Hmmm, your sequence of steps sounds frighteningly familiar LOL! I hope it works well for you, I have one of these buckets (a dog biscuit container originally) I currently use for my shop recycling bin….but it could easily be re-purposed for a DC for the router table…I'll be watching to see how well this works for you!
 
#143 ·
Still playing with the kitty litter... tub.

It's not much to look at so far, but it IS starting to take shape. Cutting the litter tub in a straight line with a box cutter wasn't quite as easy as I had thought it would be. It is however looking fairly promising as long as the port stays put!
Wood Engineering Machine Houseplant Art


Rectangle Wood Flooring Floor Composite material
 

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