Got the rough layer of mud sanded, found the low spots. Some were much larger than I had hoped. Reskimmed with fresh mud. The skimming was tight enough I doubt I will need to sand it at all…
Just need to wait for this to dry then slap primer / paint on it again, call it done.
Will probably get busy with the caulk gun tonight and get the door trim to wall gap closed up. Once this is said and done, paint the door trim, door, and wall, then we move the freezer in place.
The wall above the Reverse Osmosis tank was sanded smooth last night and it looks perfect. Just need to wipe it free of dust, and paint. Then I can find the studs again, mark it up, and mount that shelf, and install the brackets for the bins. Gonna be a squeeze but it will all fit. I have a second set of brackets I am planning on using over the first shelf and of course cut to match a shelf, that should provide ample light duty storage for the shop.
I have some mid term storage needs for the motor / shaft and pulleys for the drum sander project. No I haven’t given up on that, Just needed the shop ready to get back on it… You will see blog posts about that SOON…
I am figuring once I get the ducting back in place, the remaining wall insulated and completed, and everything more or less functioning, I am thinking of handling the upgrades in the following order. Some of this is teeny tiny nee naw stuff, some is big stuff. All of it will keep my busy. And much of this will take place between non shop projects.
#1. Pull the library cabinet down, build and install second french cleat, attach firmly to the studs, and the cabinet. Create and install plywood doors for cabinet. Yes this is a design change, but one I want to do to protect the contents of the cabinet, not to mention clean up the look of the shop.
#2. Pull the miter saw station. Pop the joints apart, Redesign cabinet to be 1.5” shorter to accomodate for block and leveling feet for the cabinet. Obtain or create clamping squares, and glue / clamp and screw this thing back together, SQUARE this time. Level it and verify square upon installation. Complete the drawers. Populate the drawers with table saw, and router accessories.
#3. Finalize design for drill press mobile base with removable cabinet. I am close, however I am having trouble with my HF mobile base. SERIOUSLY considering borrowing my BIL and his welder. I would think 1.25” x 1.25” L section steel would be as acceptable as hardwood for stretchers. At least box section steel would doubtlessly work. I can make the cuts I need, I just need it welded up… And of course cut and have welded on a braced platform to bolt the drill press to. I would like to add a second pair of the heavy levelers to the back as well, the floor slopes badly, and levelers would make this DP a LOT more enjoyable to use!. Once done, I would have to scrub it up with rubbing alcohol to clean it up. scuff it, prime, and paint the whole thing and let it cure. If ti will fit, cure it in the oven to bake the finish on. Then I can build the removable cabinet, Really just a box with dadoes and cut to fit plates so that I can have easy pull out access to my drill bit sets, drills, jigs etc, and one drawer for loose bits.
#4. Finalizes the design for, and build the base cabinet / ballast box for the lathe. Whatever I go with is going to need levelers with some serious reach, the floor slopes a LOT where the lathe is…
#5. Build a rolling sheet goods / cutoffs rack.
#6. Finish the design and build of the wide drum sander. I have opted for space reasons to limit the width of my drum to 24”. I doubt I will ever try to use it to flatten a table top, so no big deal there…
#7. Build an improved base cabinet / mobile base for the table saw. Right now it is just ideas in my head, but it will undoubtedly be based on a welded steel base for rigidity. Probably have the whole thing set on a set of kick down wheels and levelers.
#8. Build a radically improved workbench. Tossing the ideas from the existing that I do not like (too light, top too thin, lack of useful storage, incorporating what I do. (Overall size, size of base, location and placement of bench dog holes etc…). I will likely be building the next base with 2×4s and joining it together with M&T. The top will be ripped from 2×10 SYP as well. For budget mostly, but also to prove it can be done. Not that it should, but that it can… I have a line up on some old inventory 2×10s from a friend’s family barn, been in storage there probably longer than I have been alive. Most of the pieces are good and straight. The exchange would be to build a second bench, designed for automotive / implement work. (No bench dog holes, top mounted vise, wrap the top with Stainless Steel, they provide the SS and get it bent / welded at the corners…).
#9. Add a rolling clamp rack, either bought, or built, and plumb the compressed air system, including a 25 ft hose reel at the back of the shop, and a 50 footer at the front.
#10. Build a heavy duty shelf above the mechanics toolbox to house the small air compressor. This is to prep to eliminate the DC stand.
#11. Build a new 30 gallon steel trash can based Thien separator with 5” side inlet, and 5” outlet. Build side flip stand to orient impeller directly over separator for HF DC. Tie into existing duct work. This will place the DC on the floor, and eliminate several performance choking bends in the ductwork within the DC itself, and between the DC and the separator.
#12. Finish the design / build of the SCMS dust hood. At this point, the dust port of the SCMS just spews dust into the worthless bag, and in turn spews that everywhere. I need to fix that soonest possible.
At some point, hopefully soon I am hoping to pick up the Rockler router “State Park” stencil set. I am hoping to make a shop sign to go above the man-door to the house.
-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoa-AgyeFWqnQfGIJwdzkog