Not exactly woodworking, but close enough. #15: More DC progress pics...

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Blog entry by dbhost posted 10-29-2010 01:30 AM 1754 reads 0 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 14: Up, up and away... Part 15 of Not exactly woodworking, but close enough. series Part 16: Small photo light tent / box for my brother in law. »

I’ve got the drops for the Band Saw, Drill Press, Lathe, and one of the overhead drops, this one for the workbench, all done and glued up. The drop for the lathe keeps, well drooping, which I halfway expected. I avoided that with the band saw and drill press drops by supporting the Wyes with strap. I am not sure how to do that with the 2 45 degree elbows. I’ll figure it out though…

All in all it is looking really good. I am a little further behind than I had expected, but I am not complaining. The whole thing is almost complete, I even have the hose installed on the Shark guard and ready to go.

Well anyway, here are some pics to prove I have been doing this…

The workbench drop as viewed from coming in from the man door…

The workbench drop as seen from the lathe drop.

The lathe drop. Please help me figure out how to keep this thing from rotating down! That cross that is there was originally made as a grave marker for my BILs beloved Turkish Van cat… It came out too chunky in scale. I made him a smaller one afterwards… It is simply laminated cedar 2×4s. I probably should have not laminated them, and just gone with a half lapped cross…

The drill press drop. Chances are good I am going to pull the piece of S&D that comes after the blast gate out, and just direct attach the flex hose. We are sticking out too far here.

The band saw drop. EITHER the flex hose, or the S&D nipple after the blast gate is extraneous. Most likely the nipple. Kind of gets in the way of the thumb screw.

My Shark Guard 10.4 installed on the BT, complete with hose. The 4” port is a little wierd to plumb up, but once you snug up the clamp, it doesn’t seem like it will go anywhere…

The good thing is I didn’t take any pics where you could see the floor. It’s a royal disaster. Once this ducting work is done, the purge begins… All the S&D cutoffs are getting disposed of, and I suspect I will have 2 joints of unused S&D pipe. Might put those up for grabs for another woodworker to enjoy. Maybe donate it to the local WW club…

The remaining drops (aside from the floor sweep I forgot…) are already in glue, just waiting to dry…

For those that are curious, the S&D pieces are from Lowes in League City, Texas, the aluminum self cleaning blast gates, and 4”x4”x2.5” wyes are from Lee Valley, the wire hose clamps are from Kenncraft, the 4” flex hose is from Penn State Industries, and the 2.5” hose is from Peachtree. I did it this was partially based on price…

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13 comments so far

View Cantputjamontoast's profile


416 posts in 3428 days

#1 posted 10-29-2010 04:22 AM

Don’t forget static control!!!

-- "Not skilled enough to wipe jam on toast!"

View dbhost's profile


5710 posts in 3228 days

#2 posted 10-29-2010 06:40 AM

Not forgetting. Ignoring. I have done my research on the subject, and the risks of a static explosion in a home shop dust collection system are so incredibly minute as to be not worth worrying about. Particularly since I live in an area that has such high humidity over such a large part of the year, that static is almost unheard of, even in my laundry…

If ANYONE can provide evidence of even one hobby shop dust collection fire or explosion caused by static, I will wrap the wire… But until then, I’m not worried…

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View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4173 posts in 3160 days

#3 posted 10-29-2010 05:12 PM

I came to the same conclusion on the static thing. Apparently the volume of dust and airflow necessary to make a combustible fuel and a spark is totally beyond anything that can be generated in a small shop. I have no wires on mine as well. Lots of interesting things to remember, like, the plastic pipe and tubing is not a conductor. The charge cannot drain to a focal point. I did a lot of reading before making the same decision.

I wish you would show us the floor. It is looking so pristine that I was going to suggest you throw some paint splatters and mud on the walls. Its beginning to look like an operating room…........(-:

Making some fun little attachments, fixtures, jigs, etc for my project table top. The super sled works great for cutting the small angled pieces, even without its miter arms. The embedded T-track allows me to make on the fly jigs for the precise angle I need, and I don’t have to hold anything. Cool. I don’t want to mark up my RAS table, so I am going to make an angle jig of some sort for it as well, but up off the table. But to be honest, the sled is absolutely decadent for this kind of thing. Will try to make the miter arms this weekend, already have one done as I recall.

On call this weekend, and I am home alone…......Sherie just took off for Houston with her mother for the International Quilt Festival. Her brother in Dallas is going to join them.



-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3170 days

#4 posted 10-29-2010 05:34 PM

Looking good !

I presume that means your pain is lessening, which is huge :-)

One question, though: does that cross (3rd pic) use a 2-1/2” or 4” dust port ;-)

[ducks, in case of lightning bolt]

I’m finding yet another reason why plumbing, with drops, is a good thing:

my new Performax 16-32 drum sander has an open side. Since I run a 28’ extendable hose to my machines, and since the dust port FOR the drum sander is on top of the drum, the hanging hose will tend to pull the drum out of alignment (luckily, the previous owner built a jig to tension and support the open end).

So … this is a problem that you won’t have !

Nice work.

-- -- Neil

View Abbott's profile


2570 posts in 3299 days

#5 posted 10-29-2010 05:36 PM

That is looking really good! I bet those aluminum gates are nice to have.

-- Ohh mann...pancakes and boobies...I'll bet that's what Heaven is like! ♣ ♣ ♣ ♣

View dbhost's profile


5710 posts in 3228 days

#6 posted 10-29-2010 05:58 PM

Thanks guys…

Yeah, Abbott, those blast gates are nice… I guess. I am still building the system. I was looking into the regular ABS gates that so many others use, but I was concerned with jamming. Lee Valley had the best price on the self cleaning blast gates at the time that I ordered them. I have been sitting on these for over a year.

The floor is a disaster. Complete, and dangerous. I must get in and get that clean…

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View yuri's profile


136 posts in 3599 days

#7 posted 10-29-2010 10:59 PM

Wow, nice looking progress, dbhost. I am watching your work on DC with great attention. I have similar dust collector and setup. What you do is in line with my plans. I see you decided to do 4” main line. I thought about 5”, but limited selection of tubing supplies enforces me to go 4” too. Keep us posted. like you do ;-)

View dbhost's profile


5710 posts in 3228 days

#8 posted 10-31-2010 12:27 AM

Thanks guys… I finally did what I didn’t want to do, which is drill and screw some short wood screws into the joints to keep them from moving, especially along the joint at the lathe drop.

I finished up and connected the runs for the shark guard, closed all the other blast gates off, and tossed a small mount of dust under the SG for a test. Gone in a hot second. Very happy with the pull through this. With all the plumbing that makes up this system, it still pulls WAY harder than the DC did going straight out with 4” and into 20+ feet of flex hose…

For those that didn’t notice my earlier posts about this, I come out of the DC with 5” flex hose, into a Thien cyclone, which is 5” side inlet, and 5” outlet. I have the OEM 5×4x4 Wye fitted up, which feeds into 2 different branches, the overhead, and the along the wall. The idea here is to be able to pick up from all 3 ports on my table saw at once, I have yet to run the final run, which goes accross the floor, under the TS and workbench, and provides the DC port for the belly pan and blade shroud on the table saw. That might just have to wait a bit. You see I am now at the point where I have to get in to the shop with the big wheeled trash cart, and start chucking cutoff pipe, and other misc junk before I have a space clean enough to work in… And I have fallen sick thanks to a co worker who decided to come to work sick and share the wealth in our cube farm. I went to the Dr coughing so bad I could hardly breathe, and with a 100.1 temp yesterday… Still feeling like death on a soda cracker as it were…

On the plus side, yes my back is feeling GOBS better, but I am still VERY cautious about my work pace.

All told, I will have used 6 10’ joints of 4” S&D, 12 45 degree elbows, 8 4×4x4 45 degree branch wyes, 1 5’ split lock pipe, 2 tubes of clear silicone adhesive sealant caulk, and 8 4” Self Cleaning blast gates not to mention countless clamps, tape, a 50’ box of 4” clear flex hose, and a 10’ box of 5” black flex hose (Grizzly had the black on sale CHEAP, but the clear was spendy…)

If it works as well as it should I will be a happy camper with my dust collection system, between this, and the Grizzly overhead air cleaner, I am already noticing a HUGE improvement in shop air quality (it no longer smells like gerbil bedding from all the cedar I work with…)

On the self cleaning blast gates. Those that have seen my posts in the past know I am a bang for the buck kind of guy, no respector of brand names. I am just as happy with my Central Machinery stuff as I am my Grizzly, and Ridgid stuff. It just has to work well for what it is… And I have had folks wonder about how I could have coughed up the extra scratch for those blast gates. The answer is simple, buy them in bulk, and just bite the bullet. With all the horror stories I have read about the ABS plastic gates falling apart, I knew that even tough they were cheap to buy, they weren’t going to be cheap to own. So I started looking at metal gates. The self cleaners just sort of made sense to me, and since if you buy them in lots of 4 or more they cost comes down, I figured they were a better deal than the non self cleaning models available elsewhere. So far, I think I am going to be happy with these…. We will see. The extended slots offer lots of places for air to leak, but not too much as to be a problem…

On the plastic grounded or ungrounded, or metal issue. That has been hashed over countless times. Maybe if I was using it way more than I am, I might be worried about it. But I am not running the DC 2×47x365, I am not pulling from 20 large machines at once, and the air / fine dust ratio will likely not even be within 10% of what is required for a flash burn even when running my system at full bore. I’ve talked it over with my insurance agent, and the fire department, both are good with my setup.

My advice for the folks wanting to build their systems up. Unless you have the bucks to hit it all at once, just pick up a piece or two each time you have the $$, watch for sales, and like I have said many times in many places, ignore the brand name snobs… You DO NOT always get what you pay for. Just look for all the anti gloats about companies like Delta, Laguna, and yes, even Powermatic has thrown some lemons out the door from time to time…

And Neil, if you are still with me here. YES losing all that flex hose for smooth pipe is a HUGE performance improver so far. I think you’ll be happy with it. Of course if you get tired of that Performax I can hang on to it for you!

-- Please like and subscribe to my YouTube Channel

View ducky911's profile


237 posts in 2785 days

#9 posted 10-31-2010 12:56 AM

I am doing just about the same thing here in california.

I have to post some picks. War on clutter and dust…...hope to win the battle


View jerdebson's profile


3 posts in 2763 days

#10 posted 11-06-2010 08:23 PM

dbhost thanks for the info. I have recently started using my tools more and am buying more as I can. I am starting to gather info and parts for a dust collection system, I plan to use some of your ideas if that is ok? I do have one question though, you mention your pipe sticking out too far… could you (or I) place the run higher or lower and turn the gates up or down and resolve that? As a novice it seems like a good answer to that, and might be less obtrusive into the work area. Just a thought.

View NBeener's profile


4816 posts in 3170 days

#11 posted 11-06-2010 09:14 PM

Great work !

Feel better. Typhoid Marys are everywhere :-/

Did you caulk the penetrations, where you put short screws into the system ? Is there reason to ? Can you smoke test to see if you’re losing any air, because of those penetrations ?

I like watching this story unfold :-)

-- -- Neil

View dbhost's profile


5710 posts in 3228 days

#12 posted 11-07-2010 05:24 AM

No smoke test, no caulk on the screws. I ran the screws in when the caulk sealing the whole thing was wet, so no need… I hope.

I have the floor run done for the table saw, and it’s hooked up. I now realize I am one wye short, and need to go to Home Depot… (I need one more wye for my floor sweep…) Other that that, I am goood…

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View a1Jim's profile


117090 posts in 3573 days

#13 posted 11-07-2010 05:26 AM

Looks good

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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