Okay, The Royal Sovereign 13.5K BTU Unit rolled in on UPS yesterday, and was installed at the hottest point of the day. Installation method is / was. (This WILL change soon as I have trim, and hardi board coming to update things).
Bottom 14” sheet rock removed from post between garage doors. This stuff is saturated from 26 years of humidity, combined with no water seal on the sides of the doors until 6 months ago, removal was just pushing slightly in until the bulk of it crumbled away. Then take drywall saw to cut the remaining good stuff down so it is clean and square.
Measure and mark location for intake / exhaust ports.
Drill starter hole with spade bit.
Jig saw the holes.
clean up holes with rasp. Lower hole in bad shape. Masonite falling apart. (Did I mention siding is one of my projects for this year?). This will be replaced with Hardie siding this weekend.
mount ports in holes with drywall screws.
Attach A/C intake / exhaust hoses.
Plug in A/C and test.
Results? Yesterday was a particularly HOT and HUMID day, and my shop got up to 86 deg F by the doors (where the T-stat on the A/C is). Within 1 hour, temp in shop dropped from 86 deg F to 76 deg F, HUGE difference in humidity as well. LOML noticed this as well.
Things noted that need to be addressed with final project.
#1. Heat gain through siding where port passes through. I need to fully knock out the sheet rock, after the siding pieces are replaced, and insulate the gap. The problem there is that the void is 10” wide. I may just blow in a couple of cans of expanding foam , cut it smooth and put the drywall on top.
#2. Second overhead door completely uninsulated and radiating HUGE amounts of heat into the shop. This has GOT to change NOW. This is part of my upcoming projects.
#3. The heat in here has GOT to accelerate my need for doing my wiring / insulating on the east and west walls of the shop. At that point, the shop should be fully insulated.
What I am happy with in regards to this unit.
A. Quiet operation.
B. Effective cooling.
C. Cost effective.
D. 2 hose unit. FAR more effective than the single hose jobs.
What I dislike about this unit.
A. Relatively weak fan, I had to use a box fan to help distribute air so one area of the shop wasn’t ice cold and the rest burning up.
B. Unit was unable to overcome heat gain next to uninsulated door in direct sun. In all fairness, it would be extremely unreasonable to expect ANY A/C to overcome that much heat gain. I would have to shoot freon directly at the door to cool it off… That is what radiant barrier foam board is for…
C. High amp draw. Okay well not really, but I kind of forgot to take the compressor out of the equation too, and with the air compressor, a box fan and this A/C on a single 20 amp circuit, I threw a breaker. Duh…
After the success of my initial cooling test run on this unit. I have every reason to believe that it is more than sufficient for keeping my little 375 sq/ft garage workshop comfy cool once the insulation is in place.
Now I see a LOT of guys talking about air conditioning their shops, and more than a few are talking about cooling uninsulated shops. Now if you understand WHAT air conditioners really do, the fact that they make air cold is a happy accident. Sort of… They don’t add cool air, they take the heat out of the air present, and move it elsewhere by use of a refridgerant such as freon. which in turn heats the exhaust air (and on this unit in my exhaust vent there is a LOT of heat…). If you are bringing heat energy back into the air space by lack of insulation, or heated air intrusion, no matter how large or efficient your air conditioner is, you will never have good cooling. So my point is INSULATE as well as add an air conditioner so you can get, and keep your cool…
-- Manufacturer of fine quality sawdust since 1984. Comments and advice on my shop welcome. Check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/dbhost/workshop. Gladly accepting shop build donations!