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Blog entry by dbhost posted 01-30-2010 05:58 AM 884 reads 0 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The drill press table is complete, and I must say, it really is nice to have a DP table that doesn’t dip, or melt, or otherwise try to fall apart when I look at it… However, I did something stupid, again…

The dadoes for my T track were made with my MLCS 3/4” straight cutting bit, and my Milescraft Edge guide hooked up to the Hitachi Router…. All well and good, I start the cut, and it sounds wrong. I stop, take the router out of the now 4” slot, and notice it wandered inward away from the edge guide… Yep, somebody didn’t have the edge guide locked down tight enough, AGAIN…. Sheesh I need to get better at that… There is now about a 3/16” wide x1” gap from about 3” to 4” in on the back side of the table. The fence mostly covers it, so I am not going to fuss… But how is it, that I am so consistent at blowing these out?

Oh well, I used the DP table to, well finish building the DP table (Drill the through holes in the fence).

So… No edge banding, just not going to do it now that I screwed it up this badly, but it does work, and the fence went together nice…

Oh yeah, one fuss I do have. Rockler it appears changed the design of their T track. I started the project with the old stuff, which is 1/2” deep, and went to use the new stuff, which is apparently 3/8” deep… I ended up using the T track from the Grizzly table that is about to hit the trash to keep from having to shim up the fence…

Now having made these mistakes, I am considering building another one, and using the table saw to cut the dadoes so there is FAR less chance of wander…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com



10 comments so far

View Frankie Talarico Jr.'s profile

Frankie Talarico Jr.

353 posts in 2075 days


#1 posted 01-30-2010 11:36 AM

When i rout dados I use a 3/4” wood straight edge. I also work on the bench as opposed to the DP. (I’m assuming you took the project to the bench). This way I can put 100% of my pressure against the straight edge. Not to mention I’ll be cutting at stomach height, so I have plenty of diagonal pressure. Less wandering for sure. Which way did you cut. Sometimes it makes sense to use two stright edges and run the router backwards. Just some tips for the next one. I really dont use those guides much. It really is more for really light cuts. If you must use the guide do more than two passes. This way you have much less vibration. Good luck

-- Live by what you believe, not what they want you to believe.

View russv's profile

russv

262 posts in 1888 days


#2 posted 01-30-2010 02:53 PM

when i do dado’s with a router, i use my router table. to me, much better to move the piece than the router.

russv

-- yknotwood.com: where to go because you don't want no stinking plastic!

View bigike's profile

bigike

4033 posts in 2007 days


#3 posted 01-30-2010 03:05 PM

u might be able to fix it with t tracks from incra or heartville who have either the smaller t-trac and a ruler or a t-track and a miter track both together in one. i have used this on my router table and it works fine i also did the same mess up.

-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://www.icombadaniels@yahoo.com

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5386 posts in 1951 days


#4 posted 01-30-2010 04:02 PM

What’s scary, is that it hadn’t occoured to me to use the router table for the dadoes… Not sure why either… Good idea…

I have plenty of scrap where this came from, I will most likely re-do the thing and count this as practice and a learning experience…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

View SPalm's profile

SPalm

4894 posts in 2601 days


#5 posted 01-30-2010 04:27 PM

You could remove the T-track and re-cut the dado wider. Say 1.25 inches. Then cut a pretty piece of scrap and glue it in the dado. When dry, sand flush and re-cut it down the center to 3/4. It will look like a design element.

Steve

-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View rsmith71's profile

rsmith71

269 posts in 1761 days


#6 posted 01-30-2010 04:28 PM

Just be careful using the router table for dadoes. Make multiple passes cahnging heighr each time to avoid clogging and build-up between part and table.

-- Robert - Haven Wood Crafts

View UnionLabel's profile

UnionLabel

660 posts in 1919 days


#7 posted 01-30-2010 07:48 PM

When it comes to T-track, I use these guys. Good prices, good service and good products.
http://ttrackusa.com/
Sorry for your plight, but I do like the idea from SPalm about making it a design element.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

View patron's profile

patron

13142 posts in 2060 days


#8 posted 01-30-2010 07:57 PM

with no pictures ,
it never happened (LOL) !

now you can make the one you really want .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View PineInTheAsh's profile

PineInTheAsh

401 posts in 1987 days


#9 posted 01-30-2010 08:19 PM

David’s right.
No pix, not nice!

No costs on your review, now no pictures.
Ouch!!

—Peter

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5386 posts in 1951 days


#10 posted 01-31-2010 04:51 AM

My shop built drill press table mistake.
A straight on view of the drill press table.

Happy now? Sure go ahead and make me post pics of my mistakes…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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