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Hot Rodding a Harbor Freight Bandsaw. #4: Dust port mods, mostly complete...

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Blog entry by dbhost posted 1606 days ago 3299 reads 0 times favorited 3 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: The tension release, tension spring, and cool blocks are on! Part 4 of Hot Rodding a Harbor Freight Bandsaw. series Part 5: Carter Clean Sweep and MLCS Safety switch installed, mostly.. »

I know, I have been kind of quiet lately. Not that I haven’t had projects, but they haven’t been woodworking related for the last several weeks…. (Do you guys want to hear about me setting up a tuner with custom tune and cold air intake on my pickup?)

There is one bit of woodworking that has gotten at least reasonably complete and tested. The band saw dust collection upgrade…

You see the Harbor Freight band saws ship with, well nearly the same port that the Ridgid, and a few others do, which is a 1-7/8” ID port just at the front of the lower wheel guard, just under the blade guides…

My modification consists of the following materials.

1’ of 4” S&D pipe, cut on one end in a V so that the pipe makes two points that meet at 90 degrees.
1 6” chunk of scrap 4×4, cut one end at 45 degrees, and a relief sanded in to allow tight mounting of the S&D pipe.
4 1-1/2” wood screws.
4” DC hose.
2.5” DC hose
Screw in 2.5” hose end adapter
12” zip ties.
4” and 2.5” wire clamps.
4×4x2.5” branch wye.

Pics are forthcoming once it is all tested, but basically I simply created a rest for the S&D, mounted it to the block, mounted the block tot he wheel guard, ran the 4” to the Wye, ran the 2.5” from the Wye to the upper blade guide and zip tied the hose to the guide post as close as I could get it to, without interfering with the blade guide assembly. The other 4” port goes to the DC…

I have not had a chance to test this yet, but have seen a setup identical to what I am doing. Yes MOST of the dust goes DOWN with the blade, but the upper guide port is to get that dust that gets missed on the down side…

Now all that is left is the wheel brush, poly tires, and work light….

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com



3 comments so far

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3589 posts in 1662 days


#1 posted 1605 days ago

David:
Noted your absence, but assumed it was other duties. My daughter, son-in-law, two grandchildren, (and one more in about a month) are down viisiting for five days. No shop time until they are gone. But everyone congregates in my office(den?) which is quite large. The kids play with Legos, that are strewn all over the floor. They call my office the “playroom”. So I do get a little computer time.

I am making some woodworking textures, since I couldn’t find any good ones in the cloud. I’ll probably upload them when they are done. Don’t hold your breath, though, they are kinda fussy.

Good luck with the saw, good luck with the truck…..................

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1274 posts in 1496 days


#2 posted 1383 days ago

I went with the roller bearing guide inserts on mine. A bit noisier but sure does help.

Did you get the other tension spring yet? Was it worth the upgrade? I am a bad boy and and usually leave mine tensioned. I just installed the riser block a while back and still getting used to the longer blades. I haven’t done any tuning yet since the riser. This is the first 105” blade and it was drifting more than I like but I was pretty conservative on the tension.

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5271 posts in 1730 days


#3 posted 1383 days ago

Yeah, I have the tension spring in it. A Carter Cobra Coil. It REALLY helped out a LOT as far as actually giving enough resistance to tension the blade…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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