I wrap up assembly and setup of the saw in part 3 (well almost)...
Curve ahead…(face palm) the good news is that’s pretty much the only thing I found wrong with the saw!
Here’s some eye candy to look at while I give you a summary.
Fence Rail Tube - Oddly the manual skips right over installing the fence rail tube lol. Not that it was any great loss, looking over the instructions for other Grizzly saws it pretty much just said, “install the fence rail tube with the bolts” and that was it. Now Grizzly states the fence was aligned at the factory but there is a fair amount of forward/backward slop with all the fence tube bolts in…if the tube is bolted down crooked no way the fence will be aligned. I elected to simply pull the fence rail tube back towards me away from the saw, then tightened the bolts starting in the center and alternating out towards the ends, first just good and snug, then repeated the pattern tightening the rest of the way. The fence measured parallel to the miter slot within .001 front to rear, measured with a dial indicator/miter slot jig. No adjustment required.
Blade to Miter Slot – Again Grizzly says they aligned this at the factory, just check it in case it got knocked out during shipping. I did and it was right on within .001. I have owned a few table saws over the years, this is the first I have not had to adjust this, good job Grizzly!
Forrest WWII Blade - So I got a bad Forrest blade…I got over it quickly Grizzly is taking it back and issuing me a refund. The blade run out was .008 which made checking the blade to miter slot pretty much not possible. I ordered a Ridge Carbide blade this morning then because I wanted to get going on some projects I found a 12” Freud Fusion blade at my local Woodcrafters (not Woodcraft). The measured run out…drum roll… .001 a tad less really whoohoo! I then checked the blade to miter slot which was .001 as I noted above. Same tooth, opposite tooth, random tooth, blade plate vs the tooth, all measured .001 I like it.
Blade dish/crown – So I have noticed this with both the Forrest and the Freud blade. The Freud blade is flat, but with just some moderate tightening of the arbor nut a dish forms on the nut side and a crown forms on the arbor side. This is very slight, maybe .004 and inside the kerf boundary. The Freud still measures with .001 true at the teeth and outer rim, the dish is about in the center 7 inches of the blade. So its not going to effect anything but it does bug me a bit. Never had a 10” blade do that. The arbor plate and washer both seem perfectly flat. Remember in the last blog I measured the arbor run out to be about .0002. While the arbor plate and outer arbor washer are large, the center of both are recessed, they only contact the blade on the outside, a strip maybe .300 wide. Best I can figure simply clamping a 12” blade in that spot tweaks them a bit. Note the Forrest arrived with a dish/crown already in the blade, tightening the arbor nut just increased it a bit. The test will be cutting 3-4” thick stock, I believe there is plenty of side clearance within the boundaries of the kerf but we’ll see. Its a non-issue completely up to about 2” stock. It might be interesting to install the blade backwards and see of the dish/crown flip with the blade or stay the same, if they stayed the same then I would say it must be the arbor plate and washer.
Here’s some more shots
A close up
Some 5/4 red oak for a quilt ladder for my sister, that oak looks quite tasty
I purchased some new leather gloves, buy American!
Oh wait. what the hell?
This table saw was assembled to the tune of…
One final step to complete, Grizzly didn’t give me any electrical cord, I have the 30 amp plug end but I’ll have to go get some 10 gauge cord tomorrow then this assembly will be a wrap and I’ll power this beast up and cut something. Other than my finger, yeah it already drew blood!