The Coolidge Chronicles #3: Part 2 - Assembling Grizzly G0490 8" Jointer with Byrd Shelix Cutter Head

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Blog entry by darthford posted 11-04-2013 06:50 AM 4704 reads 1 time favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Which Mortising Machine? - Grizzly G0448, Shop Fox W1743, Powermatic 719T Part 3 of The Coolidge Chronicles series Part 4: Part 1 - Grizzly 19" Bandsaw Assembly G0514 X2B w/ Motor Brake »

PART 2 – In part 2 I complete assembly of the Grizzly G0490 jointer, there were a number of issues to overcome but no show stoppers, lets get to it.

Extension Table – In the pic below you can clearly see the extension table is not flat, there’s more. First I had noticed earlier in the assembly the far end of this extension table which was installed at the factory was sticking way up in the air about 1/16 above the outfeed table. The reason is they located the bolt holes so poorly in the this extension table it could not be adjusted flush with the infeed table so they bolted it on uphill towards the outfeed table which ‘looked’ okay and fooled the QC guys. I had to drill out the front hole of the infeed table to 3/8 and add a washer to the bolt to have enough adjustment to get it flat. Then as you see in the picture it was uphill to the left.

In this pic I have shimmed the extension table .003 on top and it bolted up flat.

Here’s a pic to look over while I dispense some assembly tips. See those white horizontal motor mounts in the cabinet, they allow you to adjust up and down for belt tension. The motor slides in/out on these runners to adjust upper to lower pulley alignment. Loosen one or the other but not both at the same time or everything will get out of whack. With the runner bolts loose for adjusting belt tension keep the motor bolts tight to keep everything square and vise versa when adjusting the motor in/out for upper to lower pulley alignment keep the runner bolts tight. I also recommend you adjust those runners parallel with each other and the cabinet as a first step before mounting the motor, from then on out so long as you keep either the motor bolts or the runner bolts tight it will stay aligned square. Finally see the bottle jack holding up the back of the motor, that made the job much easier.

A small gripe here, the infeed table stop for max depth of cut is utterly useless imo because its not long enough. Here I have adjusted it to its maximum and the depth of cut is still about 3/8 of an inch (see steel ruler on the outfeed table in the pic). Since the maximum recommended depth of cut is 1/8 I had planned to adjust the table so that it could not be adjusted lower than 1/8 as I have no plans to use the jointer for rabbiting. What would another 1/2 inch of bolt cost? Oddly the outfeed table can be adjusted so that the outfeed table won’t even move e.g. 0 depth of cut. My guess is they just didn’t want to make one bolt longer than the other three. I’ll pick up an longer bolt I guess.

Here’s the depth of cut pointer, it was .032 off, the instructions say loosen the screw and adjust it but you can’t because they also drilled a hole and pinned it in place. To be fair installation of Byrd Shelix cutter head probably threw this off in the first place. I simply removed the pin, adjusted and tightened the pointer screw as best as I could. Its possible to bump the pointer out of alignment but I’m really not worried about it.

Small gripe here, there’s no flat on these knob shafts for a wrench and the black knob just spins if you turn it. The threads were sloppy loose and the handle wouldn’t stay tight so I dabbed some locktite on it and carefully snugged it with some channel lock pliers.

Assembly tips, first you don’t need to install this fence base when the instructions say to do so. Wait, install the motor pulleys, align and set the belt tension first with this hunk of iron out of your way. Then later when you install it you will find its quite heavy and when resting on the bolts its too low and will bump into the infeed/outfeed tables. I raised it up and let it rest on a couple 3/8 drill bits which proved to be the perfect height for mounting this thing.

Arrgh the blade guard did not have enough spring tension to spring back to the fence, it kind of sat there about half way across the table. I installed it and tightened the set screw, then loosened the top bolt and carefully turned the top clockwise with some channel lock pliers increasing the spring tension, it doesn’t take much to go from not enough to just right maybe 15 degrees. Also if you look closely the blade guard rubs on the extension table, I had to file the extension table for proper clearance.

Okay 240 volt electrical cord and razar sharp shards of metal don’t go together (see metal shards on the bottom of the square tube in the pic). They hacked this metal tube with a saw and never bothered to de-burr it. I filed off all the sharp edges both inside and outside and was good to go.

Here’s the front of the fence square to the table

Here’s the rear of the fence not square to the table, its possible it needs a shim somewhere I’ll have to investigate this further.

And here she is fully assembled! Quite an enjoyable build really. While I took the time to document all the warts and issues it was only to help the next person who assembles one of these not to criticize. For $995 its a hell of a lot of machine and I was quite impressed with it overall for that price point. Sure it would be nice if it didn’t have any issues but then I spent $49,000 on my truck and the rear diff started puking oil at 15k miles.

6 comments so far

View pintodeluxe's profile


5657 posts in 2809 days

#1 posted 11-04-2013 06:50 PM

Looks just like my DJ-20. They are great jointers, I think you will really enjoy it.
Question about the fence being out of square…
Is the fence itself not flat, or is it just a table corner adjustment that is causing it to be out of square?
That’s one great thing about parallelogram jointers, you usually don’t need to shim to get things flat and straight.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View darthford's profile


601 posts in 1920 days

#2 posted 11-05-2013 07:34 AM

Not sure yet on the fence, could be the fence is twisted, the fence tilting mechanism needs adjustment or shimming, or the outfeed table isn’t flat. I doubt its the outfeed table I have a precision 24” Starrett ruler and it seems perfectly flat. There are a lot of parts to the fence tilting mechanism my money is on that needing a nudge somewhere.

View clafollett's profile


114 posts in 2651 days

#3 posted 11-13-2013 01:46 AM

I’m definitely jealous. I should have when with this model instead of the G0656. Its what I get for trying to save a couple hundred. I’ll never learn it doesn’t pay. Shimming its a pain. Fortunately, it hasn’t seemed to go out of square yet.

Congrats on a nice machine!

-- Don't mind me, I'm just soaking up knowledge

View darthford's profile


601 posts in 1920 days

#4 posted 11-13-2013 03:20 AM

Thanks clafollett, go see my new post in the forums on the Grizzly 12” table saw I’m thinking of buying. Appreciate any comments you might have.

View bowedcurly's profile


519 posts in 1725 days

#5 posted 01-31-2014 01:54 PM

the blade guard is easy to adjust just loosen the set screw pull it back then retightend the screw I had to put tape on mine it hit the fence so hard, have a good day

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View Kelly's profile


2025 posts in 2940 days

#6 posted 08-22-2015 06:21 PM

As of the day of this posting, I turned my G0490X on for the first time. Thanks is, in part, due to this posting. So, thanks darthforth. I didn’t note the simple adjustment for the guard pressure (lack thereof) in the manual. It took just a minute or two to up the spring tension, after installing the guard, then loosening the Allen screw.

I made an eight hour round trip to Bellingham to pick this up. I was mulling the complications of unloading and assembling an over five hundred pound toy all the way home. I lucked out.

I eased the base out of the truck and removed it from the box. Then I knocked the sides off the crate, after which I was able to lift and push the end of the jointer to tilt it. Without too much effort, I was able to walk it off the crate base.

After removing the debris from the jointer crate, I installed the lift wheel on the base. I then moved it over to the pickup and noted it was only 1/2” lower than the bed of the truck [and the jointer bottom].

I put some of the crate foam on the base, to avoiding scratches, and pulled the jointer straight back onto the foam on the base. Just before the jointer dropped the 1/2”, I put more foam under the jointer at the tailgate. Then I pulled it back a couple more inches. It came off smoothly.

Clearly, key to avoiding straps, pulleys and lifting more than seventy or so pounds is, you need a 2003 Ford Ranger, with two wheel drive.

The rest of the assembly went smooth. The unit rolls nicely. In fact, the hardest part of the project was moving the Powermatic P50 out into the garage.

The unit plugged into an existing 220 outlet and ran quietly and smoothly. A test with a couple of 2” thick chunks of wood gave me invisible joints. That was after minimal alignments.

Somewhere someone complained about the switch being made of plastic. For that reason, I was worried about how flimsy its base might be. As it turns out, it’s mounted on a solid iron tube and very rigid.

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