This is a bandsaw resaw method that I much prefer over the traditional method of resawing. In the following article I share the advantages of this resawing method.
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-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com


















17 comments so far
Sarit
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#1 posted 123 days ago
Thanks for the tip. That makes a lot of sense.
Bob Simmons
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#2 posted 123 days ago
You’re welcome. Hope it makes a difference for you.
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com
Roger
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#3 posted 122 days ago
Very good Bob. Gr8 how-to tiip/s
-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net
Bob Simmons
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#4 posted 122 days ago
Roger…
Thanks for watching, reading, and commenting. Have a great day in the shop.
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com
Kreegan
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#5 posted 122 days ago
Great tip, Bob! I’ll have to try this out. It looks much more repeatable and accurate than the traditional way.
-- Rich;) -"Dada make a big mess?" "Yes Dada made a big mess."
Bob Simmons
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#6 posted 122 days ago
Kreegan…
This resawing method has proven to be a highly accurate and repeatable way to rip uniform thin strips on the band saw. Try it out for yourself & see the difference. Then you can decide which method is best for you.
Thanks for watching!
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com
JesseTutt
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707 posts in 276 days
#7 posted 122 days ago
Good idea thanks for the tip.
I don’t understand how this produces any smoother surface on the 2nd+ pieces. Would you elaborate?
-- Jesse, Saint Louis, Missouri
Bob Simmons
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#8 posted 122 days ago
JesseTutt…
If you are using a quality band saw blade, you can get a smooth enough cut for veneer every time. Keep in mind that one face of the veneer will be glued in place. The other side of the veneer to be finished will be scraped and sanded. _
So…the real issue is to accurately produce uniform sheets or strips of veneer that are 3/32” every time. (That’s the thickness I prefer for my veneer.)_ The bandsaw resaw method that I am describing and sharing with you allows for repeatable accuracy. I prefer a jointed surface of the board to be referenced along the fence when making each pass. Using the traditional method, many woodworkers who prefer a jointed surface, will have to joint this surface at the jointer after each pass. With my method, this is unnecessary.
Let me know if this answers your question completely. Thanks for asking.
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com
blockhead
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1423 posts in 1474 days
#9 posted 122 days ago
Thanks, Bob!
-- Brad, Oregon- The things that come to those who wait, may be the things left by those who got there first.
Bob Simmons
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#10 posted 122 days ago
Brad…
You’re very welcome. Thanks for taking a look. Hope it works for you.
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com
Jorge G.
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#11 posted 122 days ago
If you guys have not checked it out, you should see the series on making banding that Bob has put together. You won’t find a better tutorial for that, whats more, no words…...
-- Just because you’ve always done it that way doesn’t mean it’s not incredibly stupid.
Bob Simmons
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#12 posted 122 days ago
Jorge G…
What can I say? Thanks!
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com
higtron
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#13 posted 122 days ago
I saw that Rockler thin strip jig on one of your videos three or four years ago I liked it and, imediatly bought one I use it constantly thank Bob love you videos always educational. Dave
-- If I cut it too short I can scab a piece on, but if it's too long what do I do?
Bob Simmons
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505 posts in 1180 days
#14 posted 122 days ago
Dave,
Glad the Rockler thin rip jig has worked out for you. While it may be simple and inexpensive, it certainly makes a difference when resawing veneers on the band saw & also ripping thin strips.
Thanks for your feedback. Greatly appreciated!
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com
Northwest29
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229 posts in 656 days
#15 posted 121 days ago
Hi Bob, thanks foranother great video instruction. I get smarter with each one of your posts. What blade are you using to do the cuts? And, I am a bit confused, why don’t you need to re-joint the surface for the stock you are cutting the veneer off of? Won’t it be ‘roughed up’ from the blade with this method too?
-- Ron, Eugene, OR, "Curiosity is a terrible thing to waste."
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