As you can see my first maple segment is cut. The dimensioning of the material has been taken care of and the compound mitresaw has the necessary angle. I use a Wixey digital gauge to ensure the accuracy of the sawblades’s angle. The stop-block on the right is clamped into place to maintain a consistent width for the segment. (Note:I always use scrap to test the accuracy of the segment’s angles. I do this by cutting 1/2 the amount of bowl segments and taping the outside perimeter and aligning the joints. If the angles are correct then the two outside angles will be completely flat on a solid surface as pictured below.)
Now it is a matter of taking the time to allow for each segment to be cut. There are 12 maple segments for each small dinner salad bowl and a total of six small bowls. While I have the saw set in this position I will make all 72 maple segments for the smaller bowls and just to be safe I’ll make a few extras. One large tossing bowl will be made later as well however, the widths of the segments will be greater and will require an adjustment of the stopblock.
The walnut spacer is just under an 1/8” and it is sanded flat, smooth, and parallel. It’s now ready to be ripped. The width is determined by measuring across the maple segment’s angle. For example if the thickness of the maple segment is 3/4” then the measurement across this angle will be somewhat greater then the 3/4” thickness. I set the tablesaw’s fence to this dimension and rip away.
Masking tape is quite useful in this operation. It’s on the opposite side of the segments pictured to the left. The tape is holding the alignment of the segments so that the walnut spacers can be sandwiched between the maple segments. So now, it’s time to add glue. I’m using Titebond 2 for this operation. Make sure you get enough glue in the joints! It’s a one-time shot.
Pictured above are glued segments that form two halves of a bowl . For the moment masking tape and rubber bands apply enough force to allow for a bit of glue to set. This also gives me time to grab an adjustable metal hose clamp.
To the left is an example of the segments being tightened with the use of the adjustable band clamps. I use a socket driver on the drill to take up most of the slack and then I finalize it with the hand driver. You’ll notice a few shims under the circle of segments. Sometimes an adjustment is needed to maintain uniformity in the alignment of the segments. So now it’s just a matter of tapping here and there with the hammer. (The larger tossing bowl is pictured to the left.)
-- Bob Simmons, Las Vegas, NV, http://TheApprenticeandTheJourneyman.com