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New Shop - from the ground , up. #8: Building shop furniture - Help with hardboard??

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Blog entry by curliejones posted 12-09-2014 11:44 AM 1520 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 7: Progress! Time to move a few tools! Part 8 of New Shop - from the ground , up. series Part 9: Incorporating "stolen" ideas »

Some time ago. I built the “Not Ready for Prime Time” workbench and described its intended purposes in my projects. It looks like this. http://lumberjocks.com/assets/pictures/projects/340962-438x.jpg?1351600503
The top is actually an old lumber core door that is banded and topped with 1/4” hardboard. I am just moving into the new shop and trying to organize as I go, a daunting task indeed! I know things will evolve but I’m trying to start in a good place and then let working in the shop help with the decision-making about tool and supply storage and placement.

This particular workbench has carried tools and supplies for 7 months and now that I’m clearing the top off, the hardboard has returned to its old habit of lifting slightly up off the table. I’ve tried 2 sided tape (though in small strips) to no success and I am not really wanting to put screws into it. I’m curious to know if anyone has tried hot glue with the possibility that it might be re-heated with a hair drier or torch if the hardboard should need to be replaced??

This table is built for an outfeed from the table saw and will do double duty as an assembly surface. I may eventually be forced to screw the top down, but I’d like to try keeping the metal away from the top if at all possible.

Thanks for your experienced suggestions!

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"



5 comments so far

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7696 posts in 2302 days


#1 posted 12-09-2014 05:06 PM

Looked at the bench. Nice clean design. Is there any distortion in the substrate material? 2 sided tape is often used for making multiple pieces with the same pattern. May work here?

Second thought is contact adhesive. Might try an experiment to see what works?

Another thought is thicker hardboard? Might have more rigidity?

Good luck!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View curliejones's profile

curliejones

153 posts in 1726 days


#2 posted 12-11-2014 11:58 AM

Thanks Doc. I believe the thicker hardboard might be the ticket. I simply could not find anything other than this around here and I believe it is only 3/16”. The substrate is an old lumber core doors that are very flat and heavy. I’m thinking glue it and worry about replacement later.

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7696 posts in 2302 days


#3 posted 12-11-2014 06:37 PM

The contact adhesive I’m talking about is used for attatching and removing patterns used in scroll saw work. In lighter amounts it is something you can remove easily? Mark the Woodwhisperer uses it when using a templete to route several pieces at the same time?

If you go with contact cement as in Formica surfaces? Yep you will be remaking it later. LOL!

Any how make some sawdust! Just wear a dust mask. LOL!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View curliejones's profile

curliejones

153 posts in 1726 days


#4 posted 12-13-2014 01:05 PM

Hi Doc! I checked out Marc’s technique and I may try some of the contact spray adhesive he uses. I bought a can a month ago, I just need to find it in all the moving mayhem.

-- Like Guy Clark sez - "Sometimes I use my head, Sometimes I get a bigger hammer"

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7696 posts in 2302 days


#5 posted 12-13-2014 07:31 PM

Let us know if it works…LOL! It should, but practice first….:<)

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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