Box Joint Jig #1: Cutting the pieces

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Blog entry by cotfessi posted 06-17-2009 05:01 AM 6527 reads 2 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Box Joint Jig series no next part

I’ve been wanting to build a box joint jig for some time now…

I saw plans for a jig designed by Lynn Sabin at Leeway Workshop LLC and thought I would give it a try. It uses a carriage that moves along a 3/8”-16 threaded rod. Check out the PDF linked here for more information about how this jig is supposed to work.

If you dig around on Leeway’s site a bit, you’ll notice there are two designs – I’m building the second, supposedly more stable version.

All the parts cut and sanded
All the parts cut and sanded

Dry fit minus the threaded rod
Dry fit minus the threaded rod

Close up on carriage
Close up on carriage

4 comments so far

View a1Jim's profile


117115 posts in 3602 days

#1 posted 06-17-2009 07:29 AM

Looks great it should work really well

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

View stefang's profile


15881 posts in 3359 days

#2 posted 06-17-2009 02:03 PM

Looks well constructed. Is it for your tablesaw or router?

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View cotfessi's profile


21 posts in 3900 days

#3 posted 06-17-2009 04:34 PM


It’s for my tablesaw… all metal parts are threaded for 3/8”-16 threaded rod. one full rotation of the rod will effectively move the carriage 1/16”... that way i can make a cut, turn the rod 2 full rotations, advancing the carriage 1/8” and make another cut, resulting in a 1/4” finger. turn the rod 4 full rotations, and then repeat…

View Praki's profile


199 posts in 4022 days

#4 posted 06-17-2009 08:05 PM

This is a very nice jig indeed. It has been on my list of jigs to build for a long time. The really attractive thing about this jig is that I don’t need to buy and install a dado blade for making box joints.

A question I have for you is, do you use a particular type of blade (carbide top ground flat) to get a flat bottom?

-- Praki, Aspiring Woodworker

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