
Well, I have never blogged in my soon to be 40 yrs, so, I am stepping into new grounds here.
I have a couple of project posts here on LJ of homemade tools and such.
I am really into woodworking, and have been kind of since I was a kid.
No serious woodworking until the past 3-4 yrs.
but over the years i have made some furniture for nephews and nieses, and some for me.
Kribs, rocking horses, high chairs, entertainment centers shelves and so on.
Finally getting my own place and my own mancave in the basement, I started building my shop.
I have not posted any pictures yet, but it will come.
I did not pay enough attention to make the best out of the builds, when coming to square and tight fit, but after watching almost ever episode of NYWS, and every other available woodworking show, along with reading many magz, I am picking up a few tricks to getting better results.
I have always liked getting stuff to work out of other peoples trash, and my “throwing away stuff” muscle is poorly developed.
I happen to work as an automation electrician at at factory producing wall panels, and from scavanging dumpsters and so on, I alwas find something to bring home. We ofte dissmantle old machines, and I tend to drag home some stuff.
Enough of that.
What I am trying to say, I think I mabye more interested in building woodworking machinery than actually using these in real woodworking, but I hope to when my shop i complete.
This first part will be on building a OSS.
Sure this can be bought, although in Norway they are quite rear, and EXPENSIVE.
There are actually no really low end OSS on the market here, so Triton and JET are the only available, as far as I have found, but these are priced from 350-800 USD.
I may be a Yankee, but I actually hesitate buying this OSS, when I can have the enjoyment of building one.
Of course I could take a couple of hours overtime and buy a factory made one, but the I would loose the thrill to see if this is something that can be done, and produce a decent result.
If I dont succeed, well, than I am a couple of experiences richer.
Blogging about this build may not be the perfect thing but since this build is not done in a couple of evenings, I thought why not.
I have actiually done most of the building already, but I will post some pictures along with some comments, and see if there is any intrest in following this build out thre.
Have not made any sketchup drawings or made any decision on size yest, but I tend to build and develop as I go.
The thing i new i wanted was a 5” long spindle, and I wanted i sturdy, so the driveshaft was to be 20mm dia.
I know what you are thinking, this limits the possibility to run tiny diameter drums, and yes it does.

But i think I will be able to squeeze on a 24 mm drum.
The drums are homemade from 3/4” baltic birch plywood, stacked 7 in height, glued and trued and the centerbored in a lathe.
Double sided carpet tape on the drum an emery cloth abrasive in different grits are attached.
There is a slot in the drum to fit over a pin drilled into the shaft, ad the drum i secured with a bolt and washer on top.

A 550w motor is running this on a V-belt drive at a ratio 1:1. The motor is a 1450rpm


A second motor for the oscillation is a 9w geared motor producing about 100 strokes/min.
Stroke distance is 30mm
Linear guiding is an old guide from 80s german edgebanding machine dissmanteled at work, and the shafts are 40mm with ballbearing bushings

The ballbearing blocks for the drive shaft is made from solid oak.
There are some stop collars on the shaft also made from oak and tapped and threaded set screws in these.
The off center wheel and stroke rod for the vertical movement are also made from oak.
Motor mount and baseplate are 3/4” baltic birch with plastic laminate.


The machine cover are from the same material, and alu cornerprofiles, and an off market chineese stop/start switch

Top will be 30mm plastic laminated particle board with inserts to suit the diff dim drums.
Top size ended up 750mm x 480mm, so a decent size and good rest for the workpiece
Dust collection will be done through a 100mm port to the enclose underneath the spindle.
This is sealed with window weather stripping
The top has just been edgebanded tonight, and I hope I will get the top ready for assembly tomorrow.
Also need to make more drums of different sizes, and do the wiring of the motor.
As I have only single phase in my shop, i run 3 phase motors with capacitors, so the real effect is a fair amount lower than stated above.
But I have yet to stall the motor on a couple of tests today.
I will try shooting a video tomorrow.
End of part 1
Cory
-- ->Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional-<

















10 comments so far
DaleM
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813 posts in 1582 days
#1 posted 355 days ago
Thanks for posting this. I’m not sure if I’ll ever get around to building one, but I do like looking at some of the ideas others come up with. I’ll be looking for part 2 and hoping it works well.
-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY
a1Jim
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89156 posts in 1775 days
#2 posted 355 days ago
Wow that’s some great engineering ,very cool.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
gfadvm
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6910 posts in 888 days
#3 posted 355 days ago
Very impressive design and workmanship but I’m thankful for Harbor Freight where these can be bought for $89 here as I don’t have the talent to construct one. You are doing a great job!
-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm
PurpLev
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7819 posts in 1846 days
#4 posted 355 days ago
very cool, and a very nice build!
the oscillating strokes seem quite fast at 100spm, do you find that this is a good speed?
-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.
corydoras
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72 posts in 695 days
#5 posted 354 days ago
Thanx for the compliments guys.Wish we had HF in Norway, I see a lot of stuff there that I could use, or modify to suit my needs.
I am not sure about the stroke freq. but I assume it will be no problem. it looks sensible, but i have not done massive testing.
-- ->Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional-<
JarodMorris
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157 posts in 573 days
#6 posted 317 days ago
Not sure about your HF, but the one by me has no Oscillating spindle sander for $89. The cheapest I see them go is $130. I’m taking a (not so) wild guess here and will say that this one is constructed better than the one from HF.
-- Dad: Someone was supposed to pick up his toys! Son: My name isn't "Someone".
lolototo
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2 posts in 255 days
#7 posted 255 days ago
Thank you it’s very nice work
and would you like please tell us more detail i need to build this machine but the photo lack explanations
please share the all individual parts separately and all steps to accumulate this machine
thanks in advanced
corydoras
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72 posts in 695 days
#8 posted 255 days ago
Thank you lolototot.
As the machine is finished and in use, I really dont want to dissasemble it to take photos of each individual part.
All the photos I have is posted in this blogs 2 pages.
There is information about the parts in the text.
All the parts are salvaged parts and is not something that is comercially available in its identical form. i just took what i had laying around in my shop.
Here are some of the specs copied and pasted from the blog text:
1: The drums are homemade from 3/4” baltic birch plywood, stacked 7 in height, glued and trued and the centerbored in a lathe.
2: A 550w motor is running this on a V-belt drive at a ratio 1:1. The motor is a 1450rpm
3: A second motor for the oscillation is a 9w geared motor producing about 100 strokes/min.
Stroke distance is 30mm (I do not remember the gear ratio)
4: Linear guiding is an old guide from 80s german edgebanding machine dissmanteled at work, and the shafts are 40mm with ballbearing bushings
5: The ballbearing blocks for the drive shaft is made from solid oak (pillowblocks or flange blocks would be better, but as mentioned, I took what i had laying around)
6: Driveshaft is 20mm diameter
7: Motor mount and baseplate are 3/4” baltic birch with plastic laminate
8: The machine cover are from the same material, and alu cornerprofiles, and an off market chineese stop/start switch
9: Top will be 30mm plastic laminated particle board with inserts to suit the diff dim drums.
10: Dust collection is a 100mm port to the enclosure underneath the spindle.
Hope this helps.
But, I had now drawing or plan for this build. Just use whatever you can get your hands on, for free, or cheap.
if you are to by these parts you propably arebetter off buying a comercial one.
Best reg
C
-- ->Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional-<
lolototo
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2 posts in 255 days
#9 posted 255 days ago
thank you very much for your fast reply
but what about the mechanism of motors,how up and down movements occur with rounded motor in the same time
i think that there is a motor joint with (up and down) and anther motor just attached to make these to movements
please explain in more details this actions
and thank you again very much sir
corydoras
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72 posts in 695 days
#10 posted 255 days ago
lolototo:
Check out this video, it shows both motors and the movements they make.
The stoke movement is only 30 mm, that is 15 above and below center of the pulleys in coplanar.
Hope this explains it for you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=8455lqKopLw#!
C
-- ->Growing old is mandatory, Growing up is optional-<
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