Randolph Torres's Blog at LumberJocks.com http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog Sat, 03 Dec 2011 02:41:10 GMT Rebuilding Quick Ratcheting Bar Clamps (Harbor Freight) http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26793 3 Tools Required

1. Drift pin driver
2. Philips screwdriver (small)
3. Standard Screwdriver (small)

There are four ways they can fail:

1. Compression, Braking, Bar worn, Glue obstruction.

First on the dynamic end remove the drift pin, this will allow you to remove the compression assembly. After removing the compression assembly remove the five face plate screws, remove the face plate. Inside you will see 2 springs, and 2 dogs, one is the compression dog the thicker one, the other is the brake.

Trouble shooting—If the compression assembly is not moving 3/16~1/4 then remove the compression dog and rotate it 180 degrees axially not end for end (the penitration is not centered) Reassemble in reverse order.

— If the brake is not holding (what is gained from each compression is lost when the handle is released) remove the brake dog and rotate it 180 axially.

When reassembling push the release button while driving the bar through the compression assembly. You do not have to replace the drift pin unless you want to.

The bar can be reversed, but the end pin will have to be driven to stick out the opposite side. It fits into a slot on the fixed end.

These fixes will give another life to these clamps. PS Once in a while you will find that one of the dogs did not go through the hardening process correctly so the metal will be weak and wear out quickly. This can also be fixed with a round file and a torch reface the sharp grabing edge with the round file then heat treat the dog using a propane torch then quench the dog to harden the steel. CLAMP ON Woodworkers

]]> Sat, 03 Dec 2011 02:41:10 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26793 Randolph Torres Randolph Torres post glue clean-up w/carpenters glue. http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26521 There are many ways to remove carpenters glue squeez-out hopefully w/o causing problems by reducing strenth of the joint. I found a way even in tight places to remove squeez-out. Use a stiff natural bristle 1/2” paint brush, dry. If you have a lot of glue mabe use several brushes, the brush does exactly what it was designed for by capilary action wicking up the glue then just wash the brush with water when done.

]]> Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:42:56 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26521 Randolph Torres Randolph Torres glue ups for unclampable projects #3 http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26507 This method is for those who prefer polyurethane glues as I do. If you have a long linier glue joint leave evenly spaced sections of the joint clean (say 1/2 in. every 6” ) in this space place a dab 1 min. epoxy and try to keep the two from mixing when the joint is compressed. Push the joint together and hold for 60+ seconds. The epoxy will hold the joint together until the polyurethane glue cures, Then they will both work together. We are very fortunate today in that we have so many glues to choose from today.

]]> Tue, 15 Nov 2011 20:12:41 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26507 Randolph Torres Randolph Torres Glue up process #2 http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26369 I discovered a second process for small glue joint surfaces (approximately pencil thin) and yet strong as hell. It started by using hot glue gun. I could see the temp. was not hot enough so I got out the digital thermometer and started experimenting. Using an old clothes iron and a glue gun, coat the surfaces to be glued with the glue gun and set them aside, now with the Iron pre set to 400~430 degrees F remelt the surfaces to be joined. Quickly join with as much pressure as you can apply by hand for a good glue line, hold for several seconds while blowing on it to assist cooling. Try it, experimenting, science, and woodworking is so much fun.

]]> Wed, 09 Nov 2011 01:28:06 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26369 Randolph Torres Randolph Torres GLUE UPS For small unclampable pieces http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26368 Necessity is truely the mother of invention or inovation. I uncovered a glue up process that works very well. It was developed for unclampable pieces, but could be used for other similiar needs. Place a liberal amount of regular yellow carpenters glue on both surfaces—now wait until the glue dehidrates to the point the glue will make long strings when the pieces are placed together. (the glue is darker yellow and a high viscosity) Do not let any part of the glued surfaces dry out keep both sufaces wet coated in glue smeering it around occasionally. When you can pull long strings from both surfaces, press hard and rotate the pieces to squeeze as much glue as possible for a good glue line. You will feel the piece almost pull itself to a stop from the suction at that point stop, wait the recomended time for curing, (before working the joint). Some times you will or might wait a little to long no fret just add a drop of glue from the bottle and press and rotate, this will rehydrate the dehydrated glue. But if it has dried it is too late and the glue should be removed and the surfaces repaired. Refinement—the perfect indication (time to put the joint together is) if you hold the joint at eye level and rapidly place the joint together and pull it apart several times, when it throws tiny floating threads its ready and will only take several seconds to bond.

]]> Wed, 09 Nov 2011 01:05:06 GMT http://lumberjocks.com/cooperedpatterns/blog/26368 Randolph Torres Randolph Torres