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53K views 119 replies 38 participants last post by  LeeJ 
#1 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
 

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#2 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Looking forward to watching your trip on this one.
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Nice to hear from you Sharon. As this venture begins, good luck.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Looks like fun. Good luck
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
I can't wait to see it done Sharon.

While you're at it, make two and send one to me.
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Glad to see you back in the shop, Sharon!
I guess this is about perfect weather for your shop!
Ellen
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Sharon,

That looks like a great plan. I hope that you get to it before it starts snowing - just kidding!!
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
I hope you can make some time for this project. I know you would do a fine job and have a great storage space for your hand tools, etc. Good luck Sharon!
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Looks like a nice project about to begin, but hey did you get the milling machine???
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Looks cool and a place to hang your shopvac on the side.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Looking forward to seeing this one come to be…. Very cool….
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
That looks great, Sharon.

Lee
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Nice design! I count 9 drawers. Wouldn't that be 18 slides?
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
thanks everyone. great weather, but time may be an issue for me.

Gary - nice catch, I actually have 1 set of slides already ;)
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
At least you know I was paying attention :)
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Looking good.
Best thoughts,
Mads
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
I can't wait to see the finished product.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Hi Sharon, Are you going to use the cart for wood or metal working tools?
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
I hope that you will put up a blog about this. It's very nice and I will be watching for it.
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
Ron. This is for metal working tools.

helluvawreck - this IS the blog, and you ARE watching it ;)
 

Attachments

#21 ·
Design

Shortly After completing the toolbox that was posted here:

I realized that I'll need some setup to hold the larger tool/components/etc as it just won't fit into the small toolbox. I looked around at kennedy, snap-on, and other similar toolcarts and they are either too big or too $$$ for me, so I figured I might as well build something that would match the toolbox.

After debating several design ideas, I think I'm going to go with the 'simple' plywood carcass with a butcher block top. the carcass will be made of mahogany topped plywood, the faceframes made of solid mahogany, drawer faces and butcher block top made of maple, and the pullies probably mahogany as well and should look something like this:

Wheel Table Furniture Plant Tire


initial cost planning:
roller wheels = $25
16 12" full extension slides = $50
3/4" mahogany (MDF core) plywood = $100

Total cost under $200… still seem a bit high as I'll need to absorb the cost of lumber mostly but we'll see how this plan goes. With little to no time lately, and lack of materials it would be interesting to see how long it would take me to put this together…

Peace
So it is, Sharon. I remember the blog about the tool box so this is the second half or you might say the bottom half - the tool cabinet. I will be watching and it will be beautiful also.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Measure twice, Cut Once, then measure twice again, and cut once more.

Its been a while since the previous post mostly because I wasn't sure I was happy with the original design.

I went to the local lumber supplier that carries mahogany plywood and bought the 3/4" material for the carcass and baking. While there I had them cut the 1/2 full sheet to 2 halves (2 quarter sheets) so it'll be easier for me to transport with my car (don't have a large truck anymore).

With the 2 pieces now sitting in the garage, the original design seemed a bit small to me. The idea was to have something small by design, but now with it physically in front of me it seemed a bit too small. so I designed to revamp the design and see how large I can make it with maximizing the usage of what I have (to still keep it on the smaller side of things). I came up with a slightly larger version of the original design which can be seen in the right version in the SketchUp image below. I personally found the 3+2 top drawers arrangement a bit overcrowded and at this size I figured it would also be too narrow to actually be useful so I removed the 3 drawer layer, and simplified the cabinet a bit which resulted in the version on the left below:

Furniture Wood Musical instrument Chair Plant


I also took all the parts and placed them against a 24"x48" rectangle to visualize the sequence of cuts and where each part would come from the sheet.

What I was able to accomplish yesterday was cutting the 4 carcass parts (sides, top, bottom) all beveled at edges to keep a nice flowing grain around the cabinet, and the dividing frame and block for the upper 2 drawer assembly to mount the internal drawer sliders to.

While making the beveled cuts on the 16" wide sides+top+bottom I managed to drop my miter gauge from the TS to the floor when I pulled it too far out of the miter slot. it left a nice bruise on my hand (as I instinctively tried to catch it as it fell) before it hit the concrete floor upside down and shattered the handle and bent the handle screw…. oh well…. I guess it is now a 950SE (originally a 1000SE, turned 998SE after 1st mishap… and now this). luckily nothing critical was broken and the Incra miter gauge still performs just as well. In future projects I'll have to rethink treating wide parts differently, either with a router, or circular saw where the part is stationary as I found to have very little control over the cut when trying to deal with wide parts for cross cuts on the TS and with safety in mind, the cut quality and the capacity becomes very limited (or maybe it's just me).

all in all, parts are cut sizing looks decent, small but not too small, and thats what I need at the moment:

Wood Floor Flooring Rectangle Wood stain


Wood Aircraft Engineering Machine Flooring


The drawer full extension slides I got came with plastic anchors that fit in 1/4" hole. you can either use those anchors or just screw the sliders directly to the wood. I chose to use the anchors, and see how well it would work . It did take an extra step, and am not sure it's really worth it or not. I used a story stick to make sure all mounting holes/anchors are spaced evenly since I seem to always end up with extension slides that are not even with one another so hopefully doing it this way (with the sides still unattached) will help out. I'll just have to make sure when I put all parts together that everything stays parallel and aligned. I based my mounting holes in relation to the top drawer assembly divider dado so that should make the aligning everything easier (hopefully):

Wood Wood stain Table Plank Hardwood


Next would be to trim the dividers (horizontal and vertical) that were left a hair too long (to trim to fit later) and glue together the carcass followed by making the face frames (front and back) and the 1/4" backing.

Thanks for reading,
Peace!
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Measure twice, Cut Once, then measure twice again, and cut once more.

Its been a while since the previous post mostly because I wasn't sure I was happy with the original design.

I went to the local lumber supplier that carries mahogany plywood and bought the 3/4" material for the carcass and baking. While there I had them cut the 1/2 full sheet to 2 halves (2 quarter sheets) so it'll be easier for me to transport with my car (don't have a large truck anymore).

With the 2 pieces now sitting in the garage, the original design seemed a bit small to me. The idea was to have something small by design, but now with it physically in front of me it seemed a bit too small. so I designed to revamp the design and see how large I can make it with maximizing the usage of what I have (to still keep it on the smaller side of things). I came up with a slightly larger version of the original design which can be seen in the right version in the SketchUp image below. I personally found the 3+2 top drawers arrangement a bit overcrowded and at this size I figured it would also be too narrow to actually be useful so I removed the 3 drawer layer, and simplified the cabinet a bit which resulted in the version on the left below:

Furniture Wood Musical instrument Chair Plant


I also took all the parts and placed them against a 24"x48" rectangle to visualize the sequence of cuts and where each part would come from the sheet.

What I was able to accomplish yesterday was cutting the 4 carcass parts (sides, top, bottom) all beveled at edges to keep a nice flowing grain around the cabinet, and the dividing frame and block for the upper 2 drawer assembly to mount the internal drawer sliders to.

While making the beveled cuts on the 16" wide sides+top+bottom I managed to drop my miter gauge from the TS to the floor when I pulled it too far out of the miter slot. it left a nice bruise on my hand (as I instinctively tried to catch it as it fell) before it hit the concrete floor upside down and shattered the handle and bent the handle screw…. oh well…. I guess it is now a 950SE (originally a 1000SE, turned 998SE after 1st mishap… and now this). luckily nothing critical was broken and the Incra miter gauge still performs just as well. In future projects I'll have to rethink treating wide parts differently, either with a router, or circular saw where the part is stationary as I found to have very little control over the cut when trying to deal with wide parts for cross cuts on the TS and with safety in mind, the cut quality and the capacity becomes very limited (or maybe it's just me).

all in all, parts are cut sizing looks decent, small but not too small, and thats what I need at the moment:

Wood Floor Flooring Rectangle Wood stain


Wood Aircraft Engineering Machine Flooring


The drawer full extension slides I got came with plastic anchors that fit in 1/4" hole. you can either use those anchors or just screw the sliders directly to the wood. I chose to use the anchors, and see how well it would work . It did take an extra step, and am not sure it's really worth it or not. I used a story stick to make sure all mounting holes/anchors are spaced evenly since I seem to always end up with extension slides that are not even with one another so hopefully doing it this way (with the sides still unattached) will help out. I'll just have to make sure when I put all parts together that everything stays parallel and aligned. I based my mounting holes in relation to the top drawer assembly divider dado so that should make the aligning everything easier (hopefully):

Wood Wood stain Table Plank Hardwood


Next would be to trim the dividers (horizontal and vertical) that were left a hair too long (to trim to fit later) and glue together the carcass followed by making the face frames (front and back) and the 1/4" backing.

Thanks for reading,
Peace!
tweaking is half the fun!
 

Attachments

#35 ·
Dividers Fittings

A small step for this tool cart, a huge step for woodworking…

or not really, but a small step nonetheless.

I was able to dry fit the mitered carcass, and trim the horizontal and vertical drawer dividers to make them fit while keeping everything square (or as close to square as I could manage):

Wood Hardwood Automotive exterior Flooring Table


had to leave it like that for the rest of the evening, but was able to sneak back to it for a short while longer and cut a 1/8" slot on all the fronts and backs of all the parts to later use to align the face frames to.

Next step I think would be to glue up the carcass square, and then move on to the face frames.

Thanks for reading,
Peace
 

Attachments

#36 ·
Gluing up the Carcass

Had another quick chance for some shop time and used that to glue together the fitted carcass. I didn't want to deal with the glueup the day before (after fitting the dividers) as I knew I would need a peace of mind and ample time to do the glueup properly and not rush through it.

And so, I cleared the workbench from all the 'things' that always seem to end up on it (how is that always happening?!?) to have use of it's full length (barely enough) and laid down the carcass sides/top/bottom in their intended orientation upside down so that I can align their edges and then used blue painters tape to keep the parts aligned and together for the glue up.

It's one thing to flip up taped set of parts for a 6"x4" mitered box, but it's a whole other experience for a 20"x28" box that stretch far beyond the edges of the workbench from end to end. but somehow I managed it (some tape came off, but I had enough tape to keep things in place so I just had to replace some tap strips here and there when the parts were standing up on their sides on the workbench).

I then managed to slide a sheet of masonite underneath the carcass parts (I know, I should have had it there before I put the carcass parts) to protect the workbench from the glue spills, and I was ready to glue some wood!

Spread glue on the mitered corners (both sides) and started folding the whole thing together as the tape was keeping the joints aligned and tight. I added the horizontal divider before closing the last corner, and the vertical divider, and glued the last mitered corner only to realize (better now then 1/2 hour later) that the vertical divider was put backwards (with the drawer slide facing the back of the carcass). Now it's funny how quickly the glue actually starts to set as it was almost impossible to pull that divider out - and it's only held in a 1/8" deep dado and it's plywood so not a lot of long grain to long grain going on here, but I managed that as well. aaah, that was a close one.

I added some clamps mostly to keep proper pressure and to keep the joints even (I used it to push the top and bottom inwards a little) and to pull the dividers in properly:

Wood Table Sports equipment Flooring Floor


And left it as as is for the night

As I mentioned in the previous post, I did route a 1/8" groove on the fronts/back of all the carcass parts to later align the face frames to it. the cut was done to allow for a spline to fit in, but didn't care much to make a perfect clean cut as it will be covered later. this is purely functional cut/groove:

Brown Rectangle Wood Window Wood stain


And this is the victim…. the Incra 1000SE handle bolt. the plastic handle was completely shattered and this bent bold that keeps the miter gauge locked is all that is left:

Household hardware Wood Nickel Metal Nut


I was thinking about machining a new one as a one piece aluminum handle+threaded end but am not sure Aluminum would be good enough for this so I may just try to straighten this bold and glue a handle to it - any suggestions (just trying to be creative here as opposed to just ordering a replacement part more than anything)?

Next I'll probably do the face frames since I may not have enough material for all the drawers at the moment. we'll see what the mood will strike with next.

Thanks for reading,
Peace
 

Attachments

#37 ·
Gluing up the Carcass

Had another quick chance for some shop time and used that to glue together the fitted carcass. I didn't want to deal with the glueup the day before (after fitting the dividers) as I knew I would need a peace of mind and ample time to do the glueup properly and not rush through it.

And so, I cleared the workbench from all the 'things' that always seem to end up on it (how is that always happening?!?) to have use of it's full length (barely enough) and laid down the carcass sides/top/bottom in their intended orientation upside down so that I can align their edges and then used blue painters tape to keep the parts aligned and together for the glue up.

It's one thing to flip up taped set of parts for a 6"x4" mitered box, but it's a whole other experience for a 20"x28" box that stretch far beyond the edges of the workbench from end to end. but somehow I managed it (some tape came off, but I had enough tape to keep things in place so I just had to replace some tap strips here and there when the parts were standing up on their sides on the workbench).

I then managed to slide a sheet of masonite underneath the carcass parts (I know, I should have had it there before I put the carcass parts) to protect the workbench from the glue spills, and I was ready to glue some wood!

Spread glue on the mitered corners (both sides) and started folding the whole thing together as the tape was keeping the joints aligned and tight. I added the horizontal divider before closing the last corner, and the vertical divider, and glued the last mitered corner only to realize (better now then 1/2 hour later) that the vertical divider was put backwards (with the drawer slide facing the back of the carcass). Now it's funny how quickly the glue actually starts to set as it was almost impossible to pull that divider out - and it's only held in a 1/8" deep dado and it's plywood so not a lot of long grain to long grain going on here, but I managed that as well. aaah, that was a close one.

I added some clamps mostly to keep proper pressure and to keep the joints even (I used it to push the top and bottom inwards a little) and to pull the dividers in properly:

Wood Table Sports equipment Flooring Floor


And left it as as is for the night

As I mentioned in the previous post, I did route a 1/8" groove on the fronts/back of all the carcass parts to later align the face frames to it. the cut was done to allow for a spline to fit in, but didn't care much to make a perfect clean cut as it will be covered later. this is purely functional cut/groove:

Brown Rectangle Wood Window Wood stain


And this is the victim…. the Incra 1000SE handle bolt. the plastic handle was completely shattered and this bent bold that keeps the miter gauge locked is all that is left:

Household hardware Wood Nickel Metal Nut


I was thinking about machining a new one as a one piece aluminum handle+threaded end but am not sure Aluminum would be good enough for this so I may just try to straighten this bold and glue a handle to it - any suggestions (just trying to be creative here as opposed to just ordering a replacement part more than anything)?

Next I'll probably do the face frames since I may not have enough material for all the drawers at the moment. we'll see what the mood will strike with next.

Thanks for reading,
Peace
Looking good.

Seems like making your own handle should be easy enough. Strange that the bolt bent so much from just a fall. Oh well, maybe you can bend it back. Or find a new one at the hardware store. You could just use a straight bolt epoxied into a wood handle.

Steve
 

Attachments

#45 ·
Front Face Frames are On

Another small step forward. I was able to mill some mahogany today for the face frames. I milled some 7/8"x1/2" strips from 1 long board that I was hoping would be enough for both front and back face frames but unfortunately it only yielded enough material for the front which is also all I had time today to manage.

So I joint a board with my #6 so that I can then rip it on the TS to long narrow strips 7/8" wide (to cover the 3/4" plywood with excess that I could then trim flush) and ~1/2" thick. I find that I am less inclined to use power tools lately - too much noise, dust everywhere, and the breaker keeps on popping (I live in a rental and only have 1 15Amp circuit I am running everything on, and it's not really wired properly as far as I can tell). unless I need multiple identical parts I find that handplanes, hands saws, and chisels are much more enjoyable to use.

I cut a center groove in all the face frame parts to match those I made in the carcass to take a spline, and from some left overs I was also able to mill some spline material ~1/8" thick:

Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Outdoor furniture


I cut the splines into 6" sections which helped with the next step which was cutting the exterior frame to size and mitering the corners. the splines helped hold the face frame parts in place so taking measurements and marking the parts was easier with both hands available for that purpose. this left with the cut parts ready to be glued after a dry fitting:

Gas Machine Engineering Wood Box


here you can see the splines in place, I later (prior to gluing) moved them closer to the corners to help align the miter joints better:

Wood Floor Flooring Gas Hardwood


I am kinda taking this slow, so I figured I'll do the frames in baby steps rather than preparing all parts and doing 1 glueup and so I glued up the exterior front face frames and then moved on to work on the dividers faces. I wanted to give the cabinet a clean look, and so the corner joints are all mitered, but I also wanted to give the cart a hint of the machinist toolbox I made which was heavy with dovetails to kinda tie them together. What I did was use dovetails to join the dividers in the face frame.

I cut the dividers to length (horizontal first, and after It was glued in and set I did the same for the vertical) keeping the length about 3/4" longer than the space it was holding for the joinery. I free cut the tails without really measuring the angles or anything. since there was just 1 tail on each side, I figured there is no need to try and keep them all the same. I place the divider at an angle and make a vertical cut that equates to an angle cut on the part. I find that if I place the part vertical and try to make an angled cut - it just doesn't work (for me):

Wood Hardwood Window Flooring Plywood


After cutting the tails, I sliced off half of each tail's thickness. there is still enough material to 'grab' the joint, and the added step allows me to easily place the part over and register against the mating parts and trace the tail where the socket will be:

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


I then trace the tail, saw the side lines as much as possible, and chisel the rest:

Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Plank


Then it was glueup time - which wasn't very fascinating, so I didn't take a picture ;). That will have to wait until the next time - trimming time.

Slow going, but at least it's going. it starting to look better than I had thought it would, which is a nice surprise.

Until next time,
Peace!
 

Attachments

#46 ·
Front Face Frames are On

Another small step forward. I was able to mill some mahogany today for the face frames. I milled some 7/8"x1/2" strips from 1 long board that I was hoping would be enough for both front and back face frames but unfortunately it only yielded enough material for the front which is also all I had time today to manage.

So I joint a board with my #6 so that I can then rip it on the TS to long narrow strips 7/8" wide (to cover the 3/4" plywood with excess that I could then trim flush) and ~1/2" thick. I find that I am less inclined to use power tools lately - too much noise, dust everywhere, and the breaker keeps on popping (I live in a rental and only have 1 15Amp circuit I am running everything on, and it's not really wired properly as far as I can tell). unless I need multiple identical parts I find that handplanes, hands saws, and chisels are much more enjoyable to use.

I cut a center groove in all the face frame parts to match those I made in the carcass to take a spline, and from some left overs I was also able to mill some spline material ~1/8" thick:

Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor Outdoor furniture


I cut the splines into 6" sections which helped with the next step which was cutting the exterior frame to size and mitering the corners. the splines helped hold the face frame parts in place so taking measurements and marking the parts was easier with both hands available for that purpose. this left with the cut parts ready to be glued after a dry fitting:

Gas Machine Engineering Wood Box


here you can see the splines in place, I later (prior to gluing) moved them closer to the corners to help align the miter joints better:

Wood Floor Flooring Gas Hardwood


I am kinda taking this slow, so I figured I'll do the frames in baby steps rather than preparing all parts and doing 1 glueup and so I glued up the exterior front face frames and then moved on to work on the dividers faces. I wanted to give the cabinet a clean look, and so the corner joints are all mitered, but I also wanted to give the cart a hint of the machinist toolbox I made which was heavy with dovetails to kinda tie them together. What I did was use dovetails to join the dividers in the face frame.

I cut the dividers to length (horizontal first, and after It was glued in and set I did the same for the vertical) keeping the length about 3/4" longer than the space it was holding for the joinery. I free cut the tails without really measuring the angles or anything. since there was just 1 tail on each side, I figured there is no need to try and keep them all the same. I place the divider at an angle and make a vertical cut that equates to an angle cut on the part. I find that if I place the part vertical and try to make an angled cut - it just doesn't work (for me):

Wood Hardwood Window Flooring Plywood


After cutting the tails, I sliced off half of each tail's thickness. there is still enough material to 'grab' the joint, and the added step allows me to easily place the part over and register against the mating parts and trace the tail where the socket will be:

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


I then trace the tail, saw the side lines as much as possible, and chisel the rest:

Wood Wood stain Floor Flooring Plank


Then it was glueup time - which wasn't very fascinating, so I didn't take a picture ;). That will have to wait until the next time - trimming time.

Slow going, but at least it's going. it starting to look better than I had thought it would, which is a nice surprise.

Until next time,
Peace!
You are making some good progress. Thanks for taking the time to share it with us.
 

Attachments

#55 ·
Sneaking In the Back

Since I do not find much time lately to get any progress I figured I'd try to sneak in some shop time in-betweens.

Yesterday I was able to sneak in some shop time while grilling outside:
1. Turn on Grill, let warm up
2-. Joint board flat and square
3. Place chicken on grill
4-. Rip board to get 2 1/2" strips ~3" wide
5. Turn Chicken so it won't burn
6-. Rip narrow strips to get 4Ă—1/2" x 7/8" strips
7-. Cut a center groove in strips for spline
8. Turn chicken to the other side
9-. Cut notch in strips for cabinet back
10. Eat Dinner

Mind you - there was no rushing of cuts and safety was practiced as usual. This was merely a practice of good time management.

After dinner I went back and cut the miters and trimmed the parts to fit:
Hood Automotive tire Wood Bumper Automotive exterior


You can see the way the groove for the spline aligns with the carcass and the rabbet for the cabinet backing is set here:
Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


I then cut the backing material (1/4" mahogany ply) based on the opening size + 1/2" in each direction expecting to have to trim it slightly to fit, but the dry fit showed that it was a dead on alignment and everything was nice and square, and mitered were nice and tight:
Wood Yellow Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Unfortunately the wet gluing threw everything off as the pressure from the clamps got my alignments off - my mistake as I was trying to clamp each piece after I glued it in as opposed to putting all parts on with the glue, align them, and then apply the clamps. oh well - it IS the back of the cabinet, and with some work it can be cleaned up.

Looking back, in retrospect I would have done things differently. If I were to do this again, I'd dress up the plywood with the front and back edging prior to cutting it to size and cutting the bevels for the mitered joints of the box as it would make the whole things much easier and less prone to alignments and extra work. I knew this was an option from the beginning but decided to try to do things the way I have - good experience and a good lesson.

Thanks for reading,
Peace!

P.S.
Prior to working on the back, I trimmed the excess from the front faces:
Wood Gas Machine Flooring Engineering


Wood Table Ingredient Hardwood Twig
 

Attachments

#56 ·
Sneaking In the Back

Since I do not find much time lately to get any progress I figured I'd try to sneak in some shop time in-betweens.

Yesterday I was able to sneak in some shop time while grilling outside:
1. Turn on Grill, let warm up
2-. Joint board flat and square
3. Place chicken on grill
4-. Rip board to get 2 1/2" strips ~3" wide
5. Turn Chicken so it won't burn
6-. Rip narrow strips to get 4Ă—1/2" x 7/8" strips
7-. Cut a center groove in strips for spline
8. Turn chicken to the other side
9-. Cut notch in strips for cabinet back
10. Eat Dinner

Mind you - there was no rushing of cuts and safety was practiced as usual. This was merely a practice of good time management.

After dinner I went back and cut the miters and trimmed the parts to fit:
Hood Automotive tire Wood Bumper Automotive exterior


You can see the way the groove for the spline aligns with the carcass and the rabbet for the cabinet backing is set here:
Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor Wood stain


I then cut the backing material (1/4" mahogany ply) based on the opening size + 1/2" in each direction expecting to have to trim it slightly to fit, but the dry fit showed that it was a dead on alignment and everything was nice and square, and mitered were nice and tight:
Wood Yellow Wood stain Hardwood Gas


Unfortunately the wet gluing threw everything off as the pressure from the clamps got my alignments off - my mistake as I was trying to clamp each piece after I glued it in as opposed to putting all parts on with the glue, align them, and then apply the clamps. oh well - it IS the back of the cabinet, and with some work it can be cleaned up.

Looking back, in retrospect I would have done things differently. If I were to do this again, I'd dress up the plywood with the front and back edging prior to cutting it to size and cutting the bevels for the mitered joints of the box as it would make the whole things much easier and less prone to alignments and extra work. I knew this was an option from the beginning but decided to try to do things the way I have - good experience and a good lesson.

Thanks for reading,
Peace!

P.S.
Prior to working on the back, I trimmed the excess from the front faces:
Wood Gas Machine Flooring Engineering


Wood Table Ingredient Hardwood Twig
The beauty of Multi-tasking !
 

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