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The great Lumberjocks shoe challenge

114K views 390 replies 63 participants last post by  JoeLyddon 
#1 ·
Introduction

As a former grade school and dance teacher, I think I was cut out for motivating people to recognize their strengths. And as a carver who lives on his own creations, I have had to motivate and challenge myself on a daily basis. Over the years, I have developed my skills by recreating everyday objects - in my case, shoes. Shoes and boots of every kind - skates, cowboy boots, winter boots, running shoes…and the list goes on. (in real life I also have a shoe fetish.) I carved every shoe I ever wanted as a child or attached to certain sports that I always wished I could've played.





It was twenty years ago that I sent Dremel, this shoe and sock. In return, they sent me their latest Dremel model, which I have and running to this very day.



I have been asked by some ambitious and courageous LJ's to start a follow-along shoe challenge blog, which I will begin on October 1st. As I am having to film my carving techniques for Dremel, I thought I might as well work on a little shoe for that project as well. Here are the details.

The Challenge

Believe it or not, participation does not require talent or skill. It does, however, require the power of observation! As much as I think I observe life at it's utmost, it is now apparent as I start painting pictures, how much is before me that I still do not see. If you are a carver or a budding carver or just someone who likes to do different things in wood, I believe your ability to perfect things afterwards will be better.

The Tools

My world is power. To make things easier for you, you should have a power rotary tool and flexible hand shaft. I use a Dremel but not the top of the line model - I use the 100. They all go around 25,000 rpm's anyways so the basic difference between them is the variable speeds. Since you want the full speed all the time while carving, I'd say that the basic model is quite adequate. You can spend more, it's up to you in that department.

I'm showing the bits that will help you get the job done the fastest. Three are (well worn) rough carbide bits and one is just a sanding mandrel. They are all available at Canadian Tire, Home Depot, Rona - stores similar. I picked up the diamond set from Rocklers for a very cheap price. I actually bought the four sets with different grades of diamonds but the coarse one is great all round.



Some type of shape cutter, whether it's a bandsaw or scroll saw (or a friend's as you won't have to use it for long.)

The size of shoe we will be doing is a 1/2 scale of one of your own shoes, so a block of basswood or tupelo measured at just a little the half size of your shoe of choice is necessary (length and width). I doubt that any of the harder woods would be quick enough for you to get through.

The Tutorials

Anyone can do this and on their own time. I will post pictures, instructions and periodically some video to help you along. I could very well set out a shoe for all of you to copy but the power of observation is not taught - it is discovered on your own and I think the fun and rewards of this will be for everyone to see what THEY can do if they are encouraged , not fed paint-by-number instructions.
I will answer any and all questions on specific shoe problems directly from the numbered blog series or you can PM me or send emails with images to my personal email address. It's best not to show your shoe on the blogs until you are finished and ready for show and tell.

I will be working on this shoe which is a basic running shoe that can be manipulated into almost every style as the concept of carving it is the same for every section. Your own shoe will help you to determine details and sizes of details and having it in front of you will help you to accurately measure.



The Reward

Personally, I hope that the reward for all of you will be the good feeling that will come inside when you finish your shoe and add it to the LJ projects pages. I was not a competitive dance teacher because I always felt that each child had a strength that couldn't be measured against another child who worked just as hard. So there will not be a winner, per se. However, each participant who finishes their shoe without mechanical means (ie CNC routers etc.) will recieve a special Jordan Straker original gift prize.

So, good luck, take a deep breath and get ready for October 1st and The Great LJ's Shoe Challenge!!!!
 
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#126 ·
Get ready, get set

Just two days left until the Great Lumberjocks Shoe Challenge 2010 begins. Laura and I have been working and reworking the blogs for understandability and thoroughness.

I'll let you know now that you all have Martin's blessing and I appreciate his acknowledgement and positive support for the journey you are all about to embark on. He wanted you to know that he will be selecting 3 random completed shoe artists to receive a Lumberjocks t-shirt. I'm going to hit some of the vendors up at the woodworking show for some additional prizes, as well as the prizes that are transpiring in the Jordan workshop.

I have received images of most of your shoes, which is why the blog series will be based on a typical type shoe/running shoe shape. A boot contains the basic shoe shape with just a little more added on so I think the majority of the blog will apply to the boot carvers. If you have chosen something totally away from the basic shoe shape, my worry is that much of the blog will not pertain to your shoe style. So, I encourage you, for this first attempt at something so new to you, try to be practical, although practicality has never been my own strong point. You may wish to change your mind on your selection upon seeing the first tutorial and at that point it is surely early enough to do so.

The first two blogs are set to appear at 00:01 a.m. October 1st for convenience to our overseas persons. Follow the instructions on each and ask away or simply post with the word DONE. That way I can sort of keep tabs on how everyone is doing. Remember, work at your own pace but with the 4-6 week period in mind and don't get intimidated as new blogs appear when you're still working on the first. The deadline may change if you are all ahead of schedule.

If you haven't noticed, I'm very anal when it comes to my art and I think the blogs will reflect this. But variety is the spice of life and even I will appreciate your own artistic spin on things. To be quite honest, I do not follow all of the steps when I carve a shoe, however, when teaching a variety of people including those who have never picked up a piece of carving wood in their lives, I want to be as thorough as possible. As this is the first time I've done something like this, I hope my blogs will be clear and explanatory.

Good luck my enthusiastic students, see you in a few days.
 
#127 ·
oh goodie goodie….well if you can imagine this..this virtual expression…the grizzman ..is all dolled up in his red attire…and setting a very large red apple on the teachers desk….....i shall sashay back to my work bench…and wait for the flag to drop..lol .and wait for the word …GO….......let the dust fly, let your carving eye see…may we all do our best…lets us all be happy….a shoe we will make…with jordan as our guide…may we show our teacher…we do this with pride….......
 
#146 ·
Class is in session - Creating a template

Good morning class and welcome to the Great Lumberjocks Shoe Challenge 2010!
When I teach, I abide by the philosophy that nobody knows nothin' about nothin'. That way I am thorough. However, if you have the knowledge or experience, feel free to cut corners as you wish.

Let's get started!

Just to make it difficult, I would like to include all of the aspects of a proper shoe carving, including the laces, so please tie a bow on your shoe and lightly tape it to the sides so there are no thin pieces jutting up or away from the shoe. Also, if the tongue drops into the shoe, stuff it with paper to retain it's shape while handling.

1. Place your shoe on a piece of paper ( or a ream if you're Grizzman.) Using a square, line up the front and back of the longest sections.

Fashion Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Font


2.Draw around your shoe at the widest points.

Hand Comfort Finger Wood Vein


Remember, there are areas that are wider than the sole, do not overlook these. Some shoe bodies extend well beyond the sole in various areas, use your 'powers of observation' to determine these. Mine extends only above the arch area.

Finger Creative arts Art Personal protective equipment Wood


You will end up with something like this:

Gesture Wood Rectangle Font Pattern


3. Now draw specifically around the sole only so that you will see a definite difference between the size of the sole and the size of the shoe body.

Gesture Wood Art Font Rectangle


Do not tip your shoe to draw around the toe because the bend in the shoe will lengthen your overall measurement. We will deal with the bend later.

Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Sportswear Human leg Athletic shoe


4.Draw an approx 1/8" outline around your entire shape. This will decrease once we reduce your picture but will give you some extra boo-boo wood. Personally, I find it easier to free hand draw by using dashes but that's up to you.

Jaw Gesture Slope Font Rectangle


5. On the arch side of your shoe image, draw a solid line connecting the ball of the shoe to the heel - this line will be the edge of your wood block.
- then 2" in, draw a second solid line - this will be a register line. (NOT a centre line.)
- lastly, draw a third solid line on the widest part of the shoe image, parallel with the first line you drew.

Rectangle Automotive lighting Slope Font Pattern


The outside lines will be the width of your wood block guides.

6.You now have enough of a shape to manipulate with your computer, scanner, photocopier or freehand if you choose.
Reduce this image 50% using the outside lines as your measuring guide to see if you are accurate - ie. 4.50" =2.25"
You will now have an accurate overall template image.

Product Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Font Sneakers


7. Extend your lines to square it all and the inside of these lines will be the length and width of your wood block. Mine is 6" x 2.5"

Slope Parallel Rectangle Pattern Symmetry


8. You do not have to go through the whole process to determine the height of your image. Simply measure the highest point, divide by 2 and add about 1/16" for boo-boo wood.

Sports equipment Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey Sportswear


My basswood block is now ready to be cut to 6"(L) x 2.5"(W) x 2.375"(H). (But don't cut it yet!)
Note: I use the end grain pointed at the heel and toe, not side to side.
 

Attachments

#147 ·
Class is in session - Creating a template

Good morning class and welcome to the Great Lumberjocks Shoe Challenge 2010!
When I teach, I abide by the philosophy that nobody knows nothin' about nothin'. That way I am thorough. However, if you have the knowledge or experience, feel free to cut corners as you wish.

Let's get started!

Just to make it difficult, I would like to include all of the aspects of a proper shoe carving, including the laces, so please tie a bow on your shoe and lightly tape it to the sides so there are no thin pieces jutting up or away from the shoe. Also, if the tongue drops into the shoe, stuff it with paper to retain it's shape while handling.

1. Place your shoe on a piece of paper ( or a ream if you're Grizzman.) Using a square, line up the front and back of the longest sections.

Fashion Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Font


2.Draw around your shoe at the widest points.

Hand Comfort Finger Wood Vein


Remember, there are areas that are wider than the sole, do not overlook these. Some shoe bodies extend well beyond the sole in various areas, use your 'powers of observation' to determine these. Mine extends only above the arch area.

Finger Creative arts Art Personal protective equipment Wood


You will end up with something like this:

Gesture Wood Rectangle Font Pattern


3. Now draw specifically around the sole only so that you will see a definite difference between the size of the sole and the size of the shoe body.

Gesture Wood Art Font Rectangle


Do not tip your shoe to draw around the toe because the bend in the shoe will lengthen your overall measurement. We will deal with the bend later.

Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Sportswear Human leg Athletic shoe


4.Draw an approx 1/8" outline around your entire shape. This will decrease once we reduce your picture but will give you some extra boo-boo wood. Personally, I find it easier to free hand draw by using dashes but that's up to you.

Jaw Gesture Slope Font Rectangle


5. On the arch side of your shoe image, draw a solid line connecting the ball of the shoe to the heel - this line will be the edge of your wood block.
- then 2" in, draw a second solid line - this will be a register line. (NOT a centre line.)
- lastly, draw a third solid line on the widest part of the shoe image, parallel with the first line you drew.

Rectangle Automotive lighting Slope Font Pattern


The outside lines will be the width of your wood block guides.

6.You now have enough of a shape to manipulate with your computer, scanner, photocopier or freehand if you choose.
Reduce this image 50% using the outside lines as your measuring guide to see if you are accurate - ie. 4.50" =2.25"
You will now have an accurate overall template image.

Product Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Font Sneakers


7. Extend your lines to square it all and the inside of these lines will be the length and width of your wood block. Mine is 6" x 2.5"

Slope Parallel Rectangle Pattern Symmetry


8. You do not have to go through the whole process to determine the height of your image. Simply measure the highest point, divide by 2 and add about 1/16" for boo-boo wood.

Sports equipment Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey Sportswear


My basswood block is now ready to be cut to 6"(L) x 2.5"(W) x 2.375"(H). (But don't cut it yet!)
Note: I use the end grain pointed at the heel and toe, not side to side.
Ha ha Jordan, I love the first picture! Very becoming, I think lots of guys will be proposing!!!! ;-) Great first steps.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL
 

Attachments

#173 ·
Measuring and cutting your block

Part A.
1. You may now cut your wood into the proper dimensions, labelling the TOP and the INSIDE. After cutting, I sand mine lightly for a good drawing surface.

Rectangle Wood Hardwood Font Wood stain


2. Scissor cut the outside of the template but do not contour the inside line.

Rectangle Jaw Red Font Wood


3. Lay the template on the TOP of your block, matching the inside line with the inside edge of your block.
With a square, mark your centre register line on both front and back of the block.

Rectangle Shipping box Wood Packing materials Packaging and labeling


4.Draw around the template.

Wood Guitar accessory Font Rectangle Hardwood


5. You may now saw the contoured edges only. The reason I leave a solid edge is for cutting the side view on a stable base. It's easier to carve the inside contours later with our Dremels.

Rectangle Wood Beige Ruler Hardwood


6. Now that you have shaped one side, you may scissor cut the entire template and lay it reversed on the BOTTOM. You will have to see through your paper to match up your register lines.
Draw around the entire shape.

Rectangle Wood Material property Font Hardwood


7. Now scissor cut the excess shoe body from the template and retrace just the sole. Don't forget to add a few boo-boo wood dashes.

Shoe Rectangle Wood Hardwood Pattern


Part B

8. I'd now like you to cut a strip of paper about 1/2" wide and about 8-10" long. THis is so much more useful than a ruler., and no having to use a calculator to split 1/16" etc.

  • You are all doing a left shoe. Don asked me if I was left handed - on the contrary - But most people process information from left to right. If you draw a circle counter clockwise, you too will find it easier to do a left shoe.

9. Lay your paper strip on the toe area of your original shoe, that is the flattest and before the rise.
Make a pencil line on the strip at the tip of the toe.

Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Grey Sneakers


10. Fold that section of paper in half (voila 50%!) and pencil in the fold line.
Use the paper to mark some distance points on your wood block. You can eyeball it or use any measuring device you choose, I find the paper method to be easy and accurate.
I usually mark it on top then use my square to draw down the side. Working with curves can get weird.

Hand Ruler Wood Finger Office ruler


11.Repeat the process measure the height of the same area.(Remember, it's the highest point we're interested in.)

Sleeve Rectangle Wood Beige Linens


12. Now measure (with your paper) from your first point to the highest part of the foot hole-the tongue end.
Fold the paper in half and mark the point from which you will draw a slanted line.

13. At this point, you will have to add about 1/8" thickness for your laces and more for your knot. Not all laces start at the same points of the show but the rise is the same for most basic shoe styles..
I used my little paper to accurately place my knot.

Glasses Jeans Shoe Beige Wood


14. Just for one final measurement, use your paper to make sure that the remainder of the wood is 1/2 of what you haven't measured on your real shoe. If it isn't, adjust now!

15. You may now saw cut your block of wood with the flat(inside) down. And if you're very careful, you can nip off the toe and heel contours from the inside - it will save a lot of dust later.

Wood Beige Hardwood Fashion accessory Sleeve


If you are carving a boot, you will have to make one more vertical line to the top of your laces from the top of the instep that we have created from the shoe.

Congratulations, your shoe is now ready to carve!
 

Attachments

#174 ·
Measuring and cutting your block

Part A.
1. You may now cut your wood into the proper dimensions, labelling the TOP and the INSIDE. After cutting, I sand mine lightly for a good drawing surface.



2. Scissor cut the outside of the template but do not contour the inside line.



3. Lay the template on the TOP of your block, matching the inside line with the inside edge of your block.
With a square, mark your centre register line on both front and back of the block.



4.Draw around the template.



5. You may now saw the contoured edges only. The reason I leave a solid edge is for cutting the side view on a stable base. It's easier to carve the inside contours later with our Dremels.



6. Now that you have shaped one side, you may scissor cut the entire template and lay it reversed on the BOTTOM. You will have to see through your paper to match up your register lines.
Draw around the entire shape.



7. Now scissor cut the excess shoe body from the template and retrace just the sole. Don't forget to add a few boo-boo wood dashes.



Part B

8. I'd now like you to cut a strip of paper about 1/2" wide and about 8-10" long. THis is so much more useful than a ruler., and no having to use a calculator to split 1/16" etc.

  • You are all doing a left shoe. Don asked me if I was left handed - on the contrary - But most people process information from left to right. If you draw a circle counter clockwise, you too will find it easier to do a left shoe.

9. Lay your paper strip on the toe area of your original shoe, that is the flattest and before the rise.
Make a pencil line on the strip at the tip of the toe.



10. Fold that section of paper in half (voila 50%!) and pencil in the fold line.
Use the paper to mark some distance points on your wood block. You can eyeball it or use any measuring device you choose, I find the paper method to be easy and accurate.
I usually mark it on top then use my square to draw down the side. Working with curves can get weird.



11.Repeat the process measure the height of the same area.(Remember, it's the highest point we're interested in.)



12. Now measure (with your paper) from your first point to the highest part of the foot hole-the tongue end.
Fold the paper in half and mark the point from which you will draw a slanted line.

13. At this point, you will have to add about 1/8" thickness for your laces and more for your knot. Not all laces start at the same points of the show but the rise is the same for most basic shoe styles..
I used my little paper to accurately place my knot.



14. Just for one final measurement, use your paper to make sure that the remainder of the wood is 1/2 of what you haven't measured on your real shoe. If it isn't, adjust now!

15. You may now saw cut your block of wood with the flat(inside) down. And if you're very careful, you can nip off the toe and heel contours from the inside - it will save a lot of dust later.



If you are carving a boot, you will have to make one more vertical line to the top of your laces from the top of the instep that we have created from the shoe.

Congratulations, your shoe is now ready to carve!
Great stuff, Jordan! This will be very fun to learn along with, even though I'm way too busy to try it myself this month.
 

Attachments

#216 ·
Sole food

Part A.

1. Before we start to power carve, I must remind you to wear a dust mask and glasses or safety goggles.

Also, at 35,000 rpm, a rough burr caught in your sweater for even a second will snap your flex shaft cable immediately! I have been unsuccessful in replacing just the cable because once snapped, they are hard to remove, so I've made many an unexpected trip to the store to buy a whole new shaft.

Your rotary bits spin away from you so if it gets too close to a far edge, it can run right over your fingers so just be careful and pay attention to what you're doing while the machine is running.

For you new flex shaft users, if your shaft seems to feel like it vibrates unevenly, simply loosen your bit and rotate it a bit or push it in further. Sometimes the bit itself is imbalanced.

2. Okay, let's deal with that bend in the sole. Use your handy measuring paper to mark the points where the bend is the highest and lowest from the table to the shoe. (Remember to fold your paper in half for an accurate 50%).

Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey Wood


Draw a line from the toe inwards to the lowest point.

Couch Sleeve Textile Wood Beige


3. I will mention that sometimes the bend is higher on one side than the other so measure on both sides. Then draw a line on the bottom connecting both sides.

Wood Writing implement Office supplies Hardwood Flooring


4. Using a belt sander, band saw, bench grinder or your Dremel sanding mandrels, get rid of the excess. If you use a belt sander, hold the shoe backwards and start your sand at the toe.

Finger Tool Wrist Personal protective equipment Pipe wrench


5. In my case, I had to sand a bit off the back as well.It doesn't have to be perfect as your sole details are yet to come.

Wood Sleeve Beige Hardwood Fashion accessory


6. Scissor cut the outline to the dashes area from your paper template and redraw your sole on the bottom. This will be the outline you will carve to. If the new bend creates a slight length difference, don't worry, just adjust the template back and forth so the arch area is in tact and there is a slight bit of boo-boo wood around the rest of your outline.

Wood Bait Fishing bait Eyewear Font


Part B.

7. You will see now that I have placed dashes around my shoe that indicate the top of my sole sides. I then connected the dots. The most strategic dashes should be at the toe, the arches and the heel but the more areas you measure, the easier it is to connect the dashes with a solid line.

Beige Wood Electric blue Fashion accessory Hardwood


8.It's now time to start your engines and trim your soles. This will give you some light experience with your power tools as there is not a lot to grind off. I'm sorry I cannot be with each of you to hold your hand as you start to see your wood fly off, but it's time to throw you from the nest and leave you to make mistakes or create successes as they come.

9. Start at the arch. If your arch is straight up and down, you have it good. Just use your rough flat cylinder bit to remove the excess.
If your sole angles or tilts wider at the bottom, then tilt your bit. Remember, the sole template you drew was from the bottom end, it may change in width as it meets the shoe body.

Insect Finger Gesture Thumb Wood


Shoe Wood Hardwood Carmine Paper


10. Use your powers of observation to see how the rest of your sole meets your shoe. Does it contour in and then back again? Does it go straight up and down with little jut? Does it wave higher at the heel?
- most joggers have a chunky ribbed sole that angles out slightly at the bottom but has a v shape as it meet the shoe.
-most canvas runners have a straight up and down sole with a tiny bit of rubber between it and the shoe
- most boots and hard shoe soles jut out further from the shoe.

As you can see, mine has a V contour to the shoe so I am not afraid to angle my rough bit in to make a V cut around everywhere but the little black tab on the toe. My shoe body is thinner than my sole and will have to be trimmed so I'm not worried if I cut in a little with my V or remove some of the shoe body as I go along.

Hand Wood Rectangle Packing materials Hardwood


11. Once you have cut into the arch area, you may round the shoe arch area to make your sole a little more accessible.

Wood Font Fashion accessory Nickel Hardwood


Work this way around the entire sole to the outline, leaving just a smidgen of wood for final sanding and detailing.

12. When you feel comfortable, you may like to draw and shape some of the details and ribs on the side of the sole with some of your smoother bits.

Wood Cable Fashion accessory Wire Hardwood


Brown Outdoor shoe Beige Wood Khaki


You will notice that I didn't do much on the toe. That's because the next blog is entitled toe and heel at which point we will taper the width of them so your sole will curve easier around them. Nor did I detail a lot of the lines and such because as the top of the shoe disappears, I may have to grind a bit of the sole sides down.

I can only remind you to keep turning your shoe around and around until the sole and your original shoe look the same in your eyes.

Remember that you do not have to take all of the wood off in one pass. Grind lightly until you get the feel of the depth you are making - you can always take off more bit by bit but if you take too much at once…well, you know what will happen.
You may also use the less aggressive sanders if you are afraid to gouge too deep. You will know when you get fed up with them.

This will be the last blog until mid week so I can get some feedback as to how you all are doing.
 

Attachments

#217 ·
Sole food

Part A.

1. Before we start to power carve, I must remind you to wear a dust mask and glasses or safety goggles.

Also, at 35,000 rpm, a rough burr caught in your sweater for even a second will snap your flex shaft cable immediately! I have been unsuccessful in replacing just the cable because once snapped, they are hard to remove, so I've made many an unexpected trip to the store to buy a whole new shaft.

Your rotary bits spin away from you so if it gets too close to a far edge, it can run right over your fingers so just be careful and pay attention to what you're doing while the machine is running.

For you new flex shaft users, if your shaft seems to feel like it vibrates unevenly, simply loosen your bit and rotate it a bit or push it in further. Sometimes the bit itself is imbalanced.

2. Okay, let's deal with that bend in the sole. Use your handy measuring paper to mark the points where the bend is the highest and lowest from the table to the shoe. (Remember to fold your paper in half for an accurate 50%).

Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey Wood


Draw a line from the toe inwards to the lowest point.

Couch Sleeve Textile Wood Beige


3. I will mention that sometimes the bend is higher on one side than the other so measure on both sides. Then draw a line on the bottom connecting both sides.

Wood Writing implement Office supplies Hardwood Flooring


4. Using a belt sander, band saw, bench grinder or your Dremel sanding mandrels, get rid of the excess. If you use a belt sander, hold the shoe backwards and start your sand at the toe.



5. In my case, I had to sand a bit off the back as well.It doesn't have to be perfect as your sole details are yet to come.



6. Scissor cut the outline to the dashes area from your paper template and redraw your sole on the bottom. This will be the outline you will carve to. If the new bend creates a slight length difference, don't worry, just adjust the template back and forth so the arch area is in tact and there is a slight bit of boo-boo wood around the rest of your outline.



Part B.

7. You will see now that I have placed dashes around my shoe that indicate the top of my sole sides. I then connected the dots. The most strategic dashes should be at the toe, the arches and the heel but the more areas you measure, the easier it is to connect the dashes with a solid line.



8.It's now time to start your engines and trim your soles. This will give you some light experience with your power tools as there is not a lot to grind off. I'm sorry I cannot be with each of you to hold your hand as you start to see your wood fly off, but it's time to throw you from the nest and leave you to make mistakes or create successes as they come.

9. Start at the arch. If your arch is straight up and down, you have it good. Just use your rough flat cylinder bit to remove the excess.
If your sole angles or tilts wider at the bottom, then tilt your bit. Remember, the sole template you drew was from the bottom end, it may change in width as it meets the shoe body.



Shoe Wood Hardwood Carmine Paper


10. Use your powers of observation to see how the rest of your sole meets your shoe. Does it contour in and then back again? Does it go straight up and down with little jut? Does it wave higher at the heel?
- most joggers have a chunky ribbed sole that angles out slightly at the bottom but has a v shape as it meet the shoe.
-most canvas runners have a straight up and down sole with a tiny bit of rubber between it and the shoe
- most boots and hard shoe soles jut out further from the shoe.

As you can see, mine has a V contour to the shoe so I am not afraid to angle my rough bit in to make a V cut around everywhere but the little black tab on the toe. My shoe body is thinner than my sole and will have to be trimmed so I'm not worried if I cut in a little with my V or remove some of the shoe body as I go along.

Hand Wood Rectangle Packing materials Hardwood


11. Once you have cut into the arch area, you may round the shoe arch area to make your sole a little more accessible.

Wood Font Fashion accessory Nickel Hardwood


Work this way around the entire sole to the outline, leaving just a smidgen of wood for final sanding and detailing.

12. When you feel comfortable, you may like to draw and shape some of the details and ribs on the side of the sole with some of your smoother bits.

Wood Cable Fashion accessory Wire Hardwood


Brown Outdoor shoe Beige Wood Khaki


You will notice that I didn't do much on the toe. That's because the next blog is entitled toe and heel at which point we will taper the width of them so your sole will curve easier around them. Nor did I detail a lot of the lines and such because as the top of the shoe disappears, I may have to grind a bit of the sole sides down.

I can only remind you to keep turning your shoe around and around until the sole and your original shoe look the same in your eyes.

Remember that you do not have to take all of the wood off in one pass. Grind lightly until you get the feel of the depth you are making - you can always take off more bit by bit but if you take too much at once…well, you know what will happen.
You may also use the less aggressive sanders if you are afraid to gouge too deep. You will know when you get fed up with them.

This will be the last blog until mid week so I can get some feedback as to how you all are doing.
Cool details, I know it will be great when your all done, as Jordons projects always are fantastic .
 

Attachments

#243 ·
Heel only

In my opinion, the heel section is about the hardest thing to do AND teach. What I'm hoping you'll grasp is that without shaping the achilles area, your shoe would surely fall off. And you do not want to leave the back of your heel flat either. Follow these steps to the best of your ability. Remember, at this point we are only concerned with shape, not detail.

1. Draw a line at the highest point at the back of your shoe/boot as well as a center line down the middle.

Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey Sportswear


2. All footwear has it's own contour at the heel. Lay a square against your original to see what you're up against here.



Brown Beige Font Luggage and bags Bag


3. Draw a line from where you stopped your sole to the top.
Now, draw a second line 50% of the distance from your real sole top to where your achilles area angles to.

Shoe Textile Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey




5. Now as best as you can, draw a line to connect the angle between those two lines.

Wood Rectangle Beige Sneakers Hardwood


6. Grind the top of the achilles area to the top of the heel line - this is your heel height.

Sleeve Grey Wood Woolen Wool


7. Then grind the back of the wood to your angle line - in the case of boots etc, this may take a bit of drawing as the angle may be ripply or may go in and then out again. The top of your achilles area may even extend beyond your sole, use your powers of observation! Don't round the sides of the heel area just yet.



8. Erase the sole part of the template off the top of the shoe so it doesn't confuse you. Then eyeball a centre line that you wish to work with down the entire length of the top of the wood. You will see that one side of the toe area is wider than the arch side - that's good!

9.All shoes define some type of heel pouch area. They generally start just behind the arch. Find yours and measure the best you can to rough draw it on both sides. Draw a line between them.



Note. that section does not generally go right to the top of your heel tabs.



10. Now refer to the shape of the back of your shoe body and freehand the contours. At this point your drawings will not be perfect and they don't have to be. Just leave more boo-boo wood than less and you can always trim it once you see the general shape.



11. Measure the distance between the OUTSIDE of the hole of your shoe at the pouch lines you drew on the side, as well as a line that connects those pouch lines - they may not be parallel.



12. At strategic points, put your dashes on your wood and connect them to show what the OUTSIDE of the foot insert hole looks like - you already know where to draw to as you drew it on the back in the previous instruction.



13. Now you have marked all of the areas you want to trim to see how this shoe is shaping up. I am going to try taking a Nano video today of me carving this area if you wish to wait. I will also add photos for those who can't get video…if the video turns out at all - I've never done that yet. If you cannot see the video, refresh your page.



Success! However, it was hard for Laura to get close enough without getting a lens full of sawdust - and I do not usually hold the tool like that, more like a pencil, but in order to tilt it her way, I had to do the potato peeling style - I know when to stop before it peels my thumb! Nevertheless, you see how I am always turning the shoe and rounding bit by bit to my drawn lines.



I hope you are able to see that my shoe back not only rounds but tapers as well. Later you will taper and fine sand even more but for now our shoe is shaped at the heel.

End of blog.
 

Attachments

#244 ·
Heel only

In my opinion, the heel section is about the hardest thing to do AND teach. What I'm hoping you'll grasp is that without shaping the achilles area, your shoe would surely fall off. And you do not want to leave the back of your heel flat either. Follow these steps to the best of your ability. Remember, at this point we are only concerned with shape, not detail.

1. Draw a line at the highest point at the back of your shoe/boot as well as a center line down the middle.



2. All footwear has it's own contour at the heel. Lay a square against your original to see what you're up against here.





3. Draw a line from where you stopped your sole to the top.
Now, draw a second line 50% of the distance from your real sole top to where your achilles area angles to.





5. Now as best as you can, draw a line to connect the angle between those two lines.

Wood Rectangle Beige Sneakers Hardwood


6. Grind the top of the achilles area to the top of the heel line - this is your heel height.



7. Then grind the back of the wood to your angle line - in the case of boots etc, this may take a bit of drawing as the angle may be ripply or may go in and then out again. The top of your achilles area may even extend beyond your sole, use your powers of observation! Don't round the sides of the heel area just yet.



8. Erase the sole part of the template off the top of the shoe so it doesn't confuse you. Then eyeball a centre line that you wish to work with down the entire length of the top of the wood. You will see that one side of the toe area is wider than the arch side - that's good!

9.All shoes define some type of heel pouch area. They generally start just behind the arch. Find yours and measure the best you can to rough draw it on both sides. Draw a line between them.



Note. that section does not generally go right to the top of your heel tabs.



10. Now refer to the shape of the back of your shoe body and freehand the contours. At this point your drawings will not be perfect and they don't have to be. Just leave more boo-boo wood than less and you can always trim it once you see the general shape.



11. Measure the distance between the OUTSIDE of the hole of your shoe at the pouch lines you drew on the side, as well as a line that connects those pouch lines - they may not be parallel.



12. At strategic points, put your dashes on your wood and connect them to show what the OUTSIDE of the foot insert hole looks like - you already know where to draw to as you drew it on the back in the previous instruction.



13. Now you have marked all of the areas you want to trim to see how this shoe is shaping up. I am going to try taking a Nano video today of me carving this area if you wish to wait. I will also add photos for those who can't get video…if the video turns out at all - I've never done that yet. If you cannot see the video, refresh your page.



Success! However, it was hard for Laura to get close enough without getting a lens full of sawdust - and I do not usually hold the tool like that, more like a pencil, but in order to tilt it her way, I had to do the potato peeling style - I know when to stop before it peels my thumb! Nevertheless, you see how I am always turning the shoe and rounding bit by bit to my drawn lines.



I hope you are able to see that my shoe back not only rounds but tapers as well. Later you will taper and fine sand even more but for now our shoe is shaped at the heel.

End of blog.
i'm getting nervous again!! :)
hahah
one step at a time.. one step at a time.
Actually, if I rename the "nervousness" - it is excitement! I can't wait to tackle this next step.
 

Attachments

#263 ·
....and toe

The toe blog starts today step by step. I will be working on refining the videoing too.

While the top of your shoe is still flat, I'd like you to isolate your laces area so you don't carve into it while shaping the toe/instep/body.

1.Position or reposition a nice bow where you'd like it to be - remember, you're going to be carving this so the less complicated, the better.

2. Measure your shoe from the finished heel section to just above the first eyelets and draw a matching line on your wood.

Shoe Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Wood


3. Now measure to the bottom of your laces (not eyelets) and draw a line. Mine ended almost where I cut the rise but I know that Manilaboys are close to the toe and anyone doing a wingtip will have a shorter lace length.

Shoe Wood Textile Walking shoe Rectangle


4. If you notice, the first eyelet is generally above and parallel to the inside arch, so draw a line where your laces meet that eyelet to the bottom one - and using any curves that may take - meaning, some bottom laces extend far beyond the top lace (right to left) depending on the shoe style and how wide your foot is compared to how tight you tie them up.

5. Using that line, measure to where the outside of the lace area follows. If you eyeball it from the top, you should see that there is more shoe left towards the baby toes than the big toe.
At this point you may also draw where your bow will be - of course it will round later but this is just to isolate the area that you will NOT carve into while you are shaping your shoe body and believe me - we will definitely learn more about laces later!!!!

Wood Tints and shades Symmetry Natural material Hardwood


6. Before I carve I pay close attention to the angles of the toe - which slants in similarly to the heel…

Brown Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Sneakers


Footwear Brown Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe


...as well as the sides…

Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Sneakers Walking shoe


...and the angle from inside to outside looking from the front. In my opinion, angling this area is what makes a shoe look like a shoe. I've seen many a carved foot item where the outside and inside are too close to the same height. Remember, the outside toes are thinner than the big toe and the instep bone is generally closer to the big toe.

Gas Audio equipment Wood Metal Circle


I'm going to take a video now of how I carve this area. There are bends and dips in the top of the toes area but I won't worry about them yet until I have a nice shape. Refresh your page if need be to see the video.



Thanks to a suggestion from MsDebbieP, I used a fan to keep the dust away from the lens. The lighting, however is what I put up with everyday!!!
Anyways, just as with the heel, I was more concerned with my shape than detail. One thing to pay attention to here is whether or not your toe area extends past the sole - probably not but in some cases it does. I did carve the shoe a bit more than the end of the video but I hope you get the idea.

end of blog
 

Attachments

#264 ·
....and toe

The toe blog starts today step by step. I will be working on refining the videoing too.

While the top of your shoe is still flat, I'd like you to isolate your laces area so you don't carve into it while shaping the toe/instep/body.

1.Position or reposition a nice bow where you'd like it to be - remember, you're going to be carving this so the less complicated, the better.

2. Measure your shoe from the finished heel section to just above the first eyelets and draw a matching line on your wood.



3. Now measure to the bottom of your laces (not eyelets) and draw a line. Mine ended almost where I cut the rise but I know that Manilaboys are close to the toe and anyone doing a wingtip will have a shorter lace length.

Shoe Wood Textile Walking shoe Rectangle


4. If you notice, the first eyelet is generally above and parallel to the inside arch, so draw a line where your laces meet that eyelet to the bottom one - and using any curves that may take - meaning, some bottom laces extend far beyond the top lace (right to left) depending on the shoe style and how wide your foot is compared to how tight you tie them up.

5. Using that line, measure to where the outside of the lace area follows. If you eyeball it from the top, you should see that there is more shoe left towards the baby toes than the big toe.
At this point you may also draw where your bow will be - of course it will round later but this is just to isolate the area that you will NOT carve into while you are shaping your shoe body and believe me - we will definitely learn more about laces later!!!!

Wood Tints and shades Symmetry Natural material Hardwood


6. Before I carve I pay close attention to the angles of the toe - which slants in similarly to the heel…

Brown Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Sneakers


Footwear Brown Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe


...as well as the sides…

Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Sneakers Walking shoe


...and the angle from inside to outside looking from the front. In my opinion, angling this area is what makes a shoe look like a shoe. I've seen many a carved foot item where the outside and inside are too close to the same height. Remember, the outside toes are thinner than the big toe and the instep bone is generally closer to the big toe.

Gas Audio equipment Wood Metal Circle


I'm going to take a video now of how I carve this area. There are bends and dips in the top of the toes area but I won't worry about them yet until I have a nice shape. Refresh your page if need be to see the video.



Thanks to a suggestion from MsDebbieP, I used a fan to keep the dust away from the lens. The lighting, however is what I put up with everyday!!!
Anyways, just as with the heel, I was more concerned with my shape than detail. One thing to pay attention to here is whether or not your toe area extends past the sole - probably not but in some cases it does. I did carve the shoe a bit more than the end of the video but I hope you get the idea.

end of blog
Gulp!
 

Attachments

#279 ·
The body...va va va voom!

In todays blog, I will be connecting the toe and heel with the body of the shoe. This is where more wood than you've carved this far will come off and the proper angle of the way a shoe really looks will be attained.

For those of you who are just starting your shoe or not at this point yet, don't worry, my purpose is to get the blogs completed and then add a special section with different details that are not on my shoe but that are on shoes I know certain people are working on. That will give everyone time to catch up and get ready for our unveiling.

I'm not really sure who is still on board but near the end, I will ask you to confirm your projects so I can work on the correct amount of awards!!!! A teacher's work is never done!

So, I'm off to bed now, but see you in a few hours….

.....Good morning - today your shoe will take on a shoe shape!!! Yeehaw!

1. Let's deal firstly with the height of your foot insert. I usually measure and mark the lowest point of the curve first and various points forward and back. Remember, in the last blog, you already drew a line to just above your eyelets which is usually where the insert ends or begins. Do this on both sides - I hope you notice that the outside is slightly lower than the inside.

Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Grey Sneakers


2. Grind along the edge about .5 inch in. As long as you don't slice into the tongue area, don't worry about taking too much because the leftovers will be a hole later.

Cap Grey Walking shoe Sleeve Wood


3. Once again, isolate your lace area, but this time with a ground line. Remember, you only measured an extra 1/8" lace height when you originally cut your block so don't be too aggressive with this cut.

Wood Walking shoe Flooring Hardwood Font


4. I measure and mark the true width of the top of my shoe at the eyelets area so when I start to round the shoe, I don't grind too narrow.

Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey


5. Place strategic points along the rise (instep) of the inside of your shoe.

Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Grey Wood


6. If you have a nice instep line and the gouge around the laces, you can trim the sharp edges from the inside of your shoe and you 'should' end up with something like this. While carving this area, the images to keep clear are how wide your shoe extends from your sole. My problem in the past has been leaving my shoe too fat. The inside of a shoe is relatively straight up and down compared to the outside.

Wood Natural material Beige Hardwood Fashion accessory


You may round your square looking bow at this point and then draw it on again so you can slightly grind around it.

Wood Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Sneakers


7. And now for the outside. It's a little hard to draw your curve on this side as most will not be able to see the difference between the rise and the run. The run is what I consider the middle of the shoe to your baby toe - do you see on mine that if I put my foot into it, my instep would be higher than the bones of my smaller toes. At this point, your laces will be straight across, but in the lace section, you will also see that they slant more towards the outside.
I can't tell you enough to keep turning your shoe back and forth to make sure the shape is starting to look less square and perpendicular. Think of your foot inside of it.

Sleeve Textile Wood Rectangle Hardwood


end of blog
 

Attachments

#280 ·
The body...va va va voom!

In todays blog, I will be connecting the toe and heel with the body of the shoe. This is where more wood than you've carved this far will come off and the proper angle of the way a shoe really looks will be attained.

For those of you who are just starting your shoe or not at this point yet, don't worry, my purpose is to get the blogs completed and then add a special section with different details that are not on my shoe but that are on shoes I know certain people are working on. That will give everyone time to catch up and get ready for our unveiling.

I'm not really sure who is still on board but near the end, I will ask you to confirm your projects so I can work on the correct amount of awards!!!! A teacher's work is never done!

So, I'm off to bed now, but see you in a few hours….

.....Good morning - today your shoe will take on a shoe shape!!! Yeehaw!

1. Let's deal firstly with the height of your foot insert. I usually measure and mark the lowest point of the curve first and various points forward and back. Remember, in the last blog, you already drew a line to just above your eyelets which is usually where the insert ends or begins. Do this on both sides - I hope you notice that the outside is slightly lower than the inside.



2. Grind along the edge about .5 inch in. As long as you don't slice into the tongue area, don't worry about taking too much because the leftovers will be a hole later.



3. Once again, isolate your lace area, but this time with a ground line. Remember, you only measured an extra 1/8" lace height when you originally cut your block so don't be too aggressive with this cut.



4. I measure and mark the true width of the top of my shoe at the eyelets area so when I start to round the shoe, I don't grind too narrow.



5. Place strategic points along the rise (instep) of the inside of your shoe.



6. If you have a nice instep line and the gouge around the laces, you can trim the sharp edges from the inside of your shoe and you 'should' end up with something like this. While carving this area, the images to keep clear are how wide your shoe extends from your sole. My problem in the past has been leaving my shoe too fat. The inside of a shoe is relatively straight up and down compared to the outside.



You may round your square looking bow at this point and then draw it on again so you can slightly grind around it.



7. And now for the outside. It's a little hard to draw your curve on this side as most will not be able to see the difference between the rise and the run. The run is what I consider the middle of the shoe to your baby toe - do you see on mine that if I put my foot into it, my instep would be higher than the bones of my smaller toes. At this point, your laces will be straight across, but in the lace section, you will also see that they slant more towards the outside.
I can't tell you enough to keep turning your shoe back and forth to make sure the shape is starting to look less square and perpendicular. Think of your foot inside of it.



end of blog
Jordan,
I haven't started yet, except to cut my butternut blank, but I will sit down soon and try to catch up.
Having a Jordan Straker original would be great, but I would do this challenge without it. That's the way I'm wired. Challenge me and I respond.
That's not always good, but in this case it will help me to advance as a carver.
Thanks for your industriousness!

ddwwb
 

Attachments

#286 ·
Pre-lace refining

Well, this weekend is when I have to 'carve' the turkey for Canadian Thanksgiving, but I didn't want to abandon you with nothing to work on.
So for this blog and periodically, I will be posting pictures and tips of how to trim your shoe a little finer prior to carving our laces. I will also be adding some details on my shoe.
My rule of thumb is never undercut anything until your carving is to it's proper proportions and the laces need some undercutting.
I'm really going to try the new image upload feature, this will save me a heck of a lot of time and confusion.

1. Prior to finer detailing of my shoe body, I wanted you to pay particular attention to the area dotted with red.
Shoe Sleeve Wood Triangle Cap

This shape is usually overlooked and made the same height as the inside area. It should not be. The top part of the shape above the black line is what I consider the rise, it should angle upwards and outwards.
The area below is what I call the run, it should be almost as flat as the toe but angle slightly downwards towards the edge. Remember what I said about your little toes being lower than your instep which follows the big toe bone.
I wanted to mention this here as I mentioned it to a specific person who emailed me.
If you are doing a boot, don't concentrate on the leg part until you make the bottom part - which is just below the ankle bone, look like a shoe. They are the same concept as a shoe, just extended past the shoe area and up your leg.

2. The various details around my shoe body are great focal points to remeasure and refine. As I draw a few of the decorative details of my shoe, I see that my toe needs to be angled a bit more and my laces are too close to the toe so I must trim them back. Am I going to do the side designs exactly? No, this isn't something I want to send to the Ascics company so I'm going to either make them up or follow them to a certain extent.

Footwear Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey Sportswear


3. I'm now going to start using a finer sanding sleeve on my sanding mandrel as well as my cylinder diamond bit for any outlining of design work.

Sleeve Wood Beige Hardwood Flooring


What I did here was use the square edge of the tip of my diamond cylinder and make a V-groove around my detail design. On the inside of the design, I rounded it to the bottom of the V to make it nicely lower than the design leather. Power bits are nice but later I will use good old sandpaper to smooth it.
I also grooved in a bit of a dip to show where my foot bends at the toe and carried it to the sides of the shoe.

Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Wood Athletic shoe Hardwood


Wood Natural material Hardwood Fashion accessory Chemical compound


Footwear Comfort Walking shoe Grey Outdoor shoe


One thing about adding details is that it gives me another insight to the shape of my shoe. When I carved one of the designs, i realized that my shoe was too thick in that area so I trimmed it at the same time. Sometimes it helps you to reexamine the entire shoe. For you boots people, I'd like you to use the time to make some folds in your boot upper. I don't want to see any brand new, foldless boots!
So students,
I'm going to give you the next couple of days to refine your shoe body and I'll be back on Monday with the laces…ugh!
Use sandpaper to take the unsightly edges or fluffs from your carving…did I just say carving - look you guys, you actually have carved something !!!!! We're more than half way through your first shoe carving or carving period! Congratulations!
 

Attachments

#287 ·
Pre-lace refining

Well, this weekend is when I have to 'carve' the turkey for Canadian Thanksgiving, but I didn't want to abandon you with nothing to work on.
So for this blog and periodically, I will be posting pictures and tips of how to trim your shoe a little finer prior to carving our laces. I will also be adding some details on my shoe.
My rule of thumb is never undercut anything until your carving is to it's proper proportions and the laces need some undercutting.
I'm really going to try the new image upload feature, this will save me a heck of a lot of time and confusion.

1. Prior to finer detailing of my shoe body, I wanted you to pay particular attention to the area dotted with red.
Shoe Sleeve Wood Triangle Cap

This shape is usually overlooked and made the same height as the inside area. It should not be. The top part of the shape above the black line is what I consider the rise, it should angle upwards and outwards.
The area below is what I call the run, it should be almost as flat as the toe but angle slightly downwards towards the edge. Remember what I said about your little toes being lower than your instep which follows the big toe bone.
I wanted to mention this here as I mentioned it to a specific person who emailed me.
If you are doing a boot, don't concentrate on the leg part until you make the bottom part - which is just below the ankle bone, look like a shoe. They are the same concept as a shoe, just extended past the shoe area and up your leg.

2. The various details around my shoe body are great focal points to remeasure and refine. As I draw a few of the decorative details of my shoe, I see that my toe needs to be angled a bit more and my laces are too close to the toe so I must trim them back. Am I going to do the side designs exactly? No, this isn't something I want to send to the Ascics company so I'm going to either make them up or follow them to a certain extent.

Footwear Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Grey Sportswear


3. I'm now going to start using a finer sanding sleeve on my sanding mandrel as well as my cylinder diamond bit for any outlining of design work.

Sleeve Wood Beige Hardwood Flooring


What I did here was use the square edge of the tip of my diamond cylinder and make a V-groove around my detail design. On the inside of the design, I rounded it to the bottom of the V to make it nicely lower than the design leather. Power bits are nice but later I will use good old sandpaper to smooth it.
I also grooved in a bit of a dip to show where my foot bends at the toe and carried it to the sides of the shoe.

Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Wood Athletic shoe Hardwood


Wood Natural material Hardwood Fashion accessory Chemical compound


Footwear Comfort Walking shoe Grey Outdoor shoe


One thing about adding details is that it gives me another insight to the shape of my shoe. When I carved one of the designs, i realized that my shoe was too thick in that area so I trimmed it at the same time. Sometimes it helps you to reexamine the entire shoe. For you boots people, I'd like you to use the time to make some folds in your boot upper. I don't want to see any brand new, foldless boots!
So students,
I'm going to give you the next couple of days to refine your shoe body and I'll be back on Monday with the laces…ugh!
Use sandpaper to take the unsightly edges or fluffs from your carving…did I just say carving - look you guys, you actually have carved something !!!!! We're more than half way through your first shoe carving or carving period! Congratulations!
Jordan,

Which Kutzall bit do you use to carve the turkey? ;-)

L/W
 

Attachments

#297 ·
Tying up loose ends - the ...ugh...laces

Part A.

The laces aren't really so hard as there are many focal points to guide you. However, they do take more time as there are ins and outs and the knot in the bow.
My problem as I learned how to do shoes, was leaving far to much thickness in my isolation block and always ended up with these big honkin' globs of laces. If you measure your own and take 50% of them, you'll see that they are not as wide as you would make them if you didn't measure them.
I am starting this blog now and will continue it throughout the day.

Note that the instructional blogs will be completed by this week's end so for those of you who just started, you will have a couple of weeks to catch up prior to the unveiling.

1. The areas I want you to pay attention to are the distance from the outside of your heel to the tongue
the distance from the back of your heel to the end of the foot opening just before it goes downhill, which I refer to as the first eyelet area and the INSIDE distance between the first eyelets.
Shoe Walking shoe Sneakers Outdoor shoe Electric blue


2. After marking those areas, I draw the INSIDE of my shoe insert - which in my case showed me just how much boo-boo wood I had left on the outside. If the inside of your shoe has an abundance of padding, draw the hole a little closer to the outside. Padding is nice in real life but doesn't add any more attractiveness on a carving.
Sleeve Wood Floor Sportswear Flooring


3. Then to make my life easier, I ground down the lump of wood in the hole to match my outside height - leaving the tongue in tact! Don't worry about gouging out the hole at this point.
Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Sportswear Wood


4. What I want to do now is to thin my lace block enough to isolate my bow. If you round the edges from your laces it will make them easier to work with and grind down slightly below the bow. You have more room to isolate the bow from the top because you are working with the inside of the opening not other laces.
Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Sneakers

After rounding the sides of the clump of laces I previously had, I drew lines to indicate the INSIDE of the lace opening. As your laces wrap over and under, you must know where they will wrap under so the inside line is very important. (Just to let myself know I was measuring correctly, I drew the decorative leather band on but it was only for my own peace of mind. I have a tendency to leave things a little on the big side so I wanted to make sure my opening was jiving.)

5. And finally, in preparation for my laces, I measured the distance from lace HOLE to lace hole, both in width and height and drew them on.
Wood Walking shoe Sneakers Outdoor shoe Beige


6. Although I am going to work on the bow first, I measured the width of my laces and tied my shoe up in the over and under fashion from hole to hole. In my case, the bottom laces both went under then wrapped over. I drew the red line to make sure you knew that when you carve, you are not going to ignore the sides of the opening.

Footwear Shoe Cap Sleeve Mammal


If you're interested in seeing more of how I work with the Dremel, there is a short video on their enewsletters page at the left(youtube section). An article will follow in the coming days.

Remember, let's try not to unveil too much of our progress until unveiling day so everyone can be wowed with your projects!

Part B.

7. Remember the general rule of thumb is NEVER undercut anything until you are sure it is properly situated! Now let's deal with the bow. As most of your laces are at the end grain, some boots and shoes will be harder to grind off.
How does it work?
I love to watch the development of realization in drawing. Children generally draw faces like this until they start to look at each other and realize how the face works and that there is a bridge of the nose and a cheekbone and and upper lip and an eye socket.
Nose Eyebrow Jaw Gesture Ear


What I'd like you to do is to spend a bit of time to figure out how your bow and knot work. And when you draw it on, realize that it follows through to the back and each lace end is attached to one side of the bow or the other. What part is higher and do both end laces come out on top or does one go underneath? Can you see the inside lace lie through your bow?The thing is, if you know how it works, you will always know how to draw or carve it. I know in my case that once I have trimmed my bow to it's proper size, I might have to add another set of laces and eyelets at the bottom of it.

Footwear Shoe Sneakers Wood Walking shoe


I used my rough pointed bit for taking of unnecessary bits but I like my cylinder diamonds a lot because they give me a straight up and down edge without removing too much at once.

8. Once I am satisfied with the shape and where everything is, I will use a longer diamond with a curve and a point to refine the edges and make crisper lines between the folds of the knots etc. While I'm doing this, I will also clean up the area around the bow that I missed when it was isolated as a rough piece.
Outdoor shoe Sleeve Wood Sneakers Khaki


I darkened this photo so you could see my lines.
Wood Automotive lighting Triangle Pattern Fashion accessory


I am now going to leave these alone and move onto the laces. They don't have to be completely smoothed as we will texture them later. If you want to make very crisp lines and some shallow undercuts (WHEN THE SURROUNDING AREA IS TRIMMED TO PROPER DIMENSIONS ONLY!) you can use the most pointed bit of your diamonds but I cannot stress enough to let the tool do the work Other wise you will lose that tip very quickly!

I must tell you that if you have reached this point, that you have surpassed the most difficult sessions and are well onto your way to completing your first carved shoe!

Part C

9. At the end of your laces, don't drill a hole, rather use your cylinder bit on an angle and create more of a D. Your lace would normally take up half of a hole.
Walking shoe Wood Hardwood Electric blue Thumb


10. Prior to scoring where your laces are, make sure you determine which laces are over and which are under, not only going into the holes but the ones down the middle.
I now use my bit that has a little flat disc on the top(these are all in the set I suggested in the beginning.) and score where my laces are including the edges of the opening. Don't make them too thin because you will still have to round them etc.
Sneakers Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Wood Beige


As you go through them, remember, you are not so much carving the laces but rather the area around them. I use my various cylinder diamonds a lot but don't be afraid to try any bit that you feel might accommodate the job.
It's not pretty along the way but keep at it, making sure you redraw your lines periodically.
Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Wood Walking shoe


And if it's any consolation, I will also be experiencing the same difficulty as you during this task as although I've done it many times, there is no easy way around it.

11. After getting the best details of the lace that I can, I draw around them with a very sharp pencil to see if my lines are straight. Also , the pencil will smooth some of the rough patches off of the undercuts from the soft basswood.
Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Sneakers Outdoor shoe


12. After making my final adjustments, I use one of my smaller cylinder bits and using the edge of it, I weave a v-pattern back and forth for texture.
Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Sneakers

As with any quality projects, your laces will be only as good as the time you spend with them. However, if you have reached this point, you should be very proud of yourself!!!
And if you have reached this point and plan to be unveiling your project with us mid-November, then you MUST email me with your name and address!
jordstraker@shaw.ca
 

Attachments

#298 ·
Tying up loose ends - the ...ugh...laces

Part A.

The laces aren't really so hard as there are many focal points to guide you. However, they do take more time as there are ins and outs and the knot in the bow.
My problem as I learned how to do shoes, was leaving far to much thickness in my isolation block and always ended up with these big honkin' globs of laces. If you measure your own and take 50% of them, you'll see that they are not as wide as you would make them if you didn't measure them.
I am starting this blog now and will continue it throughout the day.

Note that the instructional blogs will be completed by this week's end so for those of you who just started, you will have a couple of weeks to catch up prior to the unveiling.

1. The areas I want you to pay attention to are the distance from the outside of your heel to the tongue
the distance from the back of your heel to the end of the foot opening just before it goes downhill, which I refer to as the first eyelet area and the INSIDE distance between the first eyelets.
Shoe Walking shoe Sneakers Outdoor shoe Electric blue


2. After marking those areas, I draw the INSIDE of my shoe insert - which in my case showed me just how much boo-boo wood I had left on the outside. If the inside of your shoe has an abundance of padding, draw the hole a little closer to the outside. Padding is nice in real life but doesn't add any more attractiveness on a carving.
Sleeve Wood Floor Sportswear Flooring


3. Then to make my life easier, I ground down the lump of wood in the hole to match my outside height - leaving the tongue in tact! Don't worry about gouging out the hole at this point.
Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Grey Sportswear Wood


4. What I want to do now is to thin my lace block enough to isolate my bow. If you round the edges from your laces it will make them easier to work with and grind down slightly below the bow. You have more room to isolate the bow from the top because you are working with the inside of the opening not other laces.
Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Sneakers

After rounding the sides of the clump of laces I previously had, I drew lines to indicate the INSIDE of the lace opening. As your laces wrap over and under, you must know where they will wrap under so the inside line is very important. (Just to let myself know I was measuring correctly, I drew the decorative leather band on but it was only for my own peace of mind. I have a tendency to leave things a little on the big side so I wanted to make sure my opening was jiving.)

5. And finally, in preparation for my laces, I measured the distance from lace HOLE to lace hole, both in width and height and drew them on.
Wood Walking shoe Sneakers Outdoor shoe Beige


6. Although I am going to work on the bow first, I measured the width of my laces and tied my shoe up in the over and under fashion from hole to hole. In my case, the bottom laces both went under then wrapped over. I drew the red line to make sure you knew that when you carve, you are not going to ignore the sides of the opening.

Footwear Shoe Cap Sleeve Mammal


If you're interested in seeing more of how I work with the Dremel, there is a short video on their enewsletters page at the left(youtube section). An article will follow in the coming days.

Remember, let's try not to unveil too much of our progress until unveiling day so everyone can be wowed with your projects!

Part B.

7. Remember the general rule of thumb is NEVER undercut anything until you are sure it is properly situated! Now let's deal with the bow. As most of your laces are at the end grain, some boots and shoes will be harder to grind off.
How does it work?
I love to watch the development of realization in drawing. Children generally draw faces like this until they start to look at each other and realize how the face works and that there is a bridge of the nose and a cheekbone and and upper lip and an eye socket.
Nose Eyebrow Jaw Gesture Ear


What I'd like you to do is to spend a bit of time to figure out how your bow and knot work. And when you draw it on, realize that it follows through to the back and each lace end is attached to one side of the bow or the other. What part is higher and do both end laces come out on top or does one go underneath? Can you see the inside lace lie through your bow?The thing is, if you know how it works, you will always know how to draw or carve it. I know in my case that once I have trimmed my bow to it's proper size, I might have to add another set of laces and eyelets at the bottom of it.

Footwear Shoe Sneakers Wood Walking shoe


I used my rough pointed bit for taking of unnecessary bits but I like my cylinder diamonds a lot because they give me a straight up and down edge without removing too much at once.

8. Once I am satisfied with the shape and where everything is, I will use a longer diamond with a curve and a point to refine the edges and make crisper lines between the folds of the knots etc. While I'm doing this, I will also clean up the area around the bow that I missed when it was isolated as a rough piece.
Outdoor shoe Sleeve Wood Sneakers Khaki


I darkened this photo so you could see my lines.
Wood Automotive lighting Triangle Pattern Fashion accessory


I am now going to leave these alone and move onto the laces. They don't have to be completely smoothed as we will texture them later. If you want to make very crisp lines and some shallow undercuts (WHEN THE SURROUNDING AREA IS TRIMMED TO PROPER DIMENSIONS ONLY!) you can use the most pointed bit of your diamonds but I cannot stress enough to let the tool do the work Other wise you will lose that tip very quickly!

I must tell you that if you have reached this point, that you have surpassed the most difficult sessions and are well onto your way to completing your first carved shoe!

Part C

9. At the end of your laces, don't drill a hole, rather use your cylinder bit on an angle and create more of a D. Your lace would normally take up half of a hole.
Walking shoe Wood Hardwood Electric blue Thumb


10. Prior to scoring where your laces are, make sure you determine which laces are over and which are under, not only going into the holes but the ones down the middle.
I now use my bit that has a little flat disc on the top(these are all in the set I suggested in the beginning.) and score where my laces are including the edges of the opening. Don't make them too thin because you will still have to round them etc.
Sneakers Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Wood Beige


As you go through them, remember, you are not so much carving the laces but rather the area around them. I use my various cylinder diamonds a lot but don't be afraid to try any bit that you feel might accommodate the job.
It's not pretty along the way but keep at it, making sure you redraw your lines periodically.
Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Wood Walking shoe


And if it's any consolation, I will also be experiencing the same difficulty as you during this task as although I've done it many times, there is no easy way around it.

11. After getting the best details of the lace that I can, I draw around them with a very sharp pencil to see if my lines are straight. Also , the pencil will smooth some of the rough patches off of the undercuts from the soft basswood.
Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Sneakers Outdoor shoe


12. After making my final adjustments, I use one of my smaller cylinder bits and using the edge of it, I weave a v-pattern back and forth for texture.
Footwear Shoe Walking shoe Outdoor shoe Sneakers

As with any quality projects, your laces will be only as good as the time you spend with them. However, if you have reached this point, you should be very proud of yourself!!!
And if you have reached this point and plan to be unveiling your project with us mid-November, then you MUST email me with your name and address!
jordstraker@shaw.ca
be afraid; be very afraid…. haha

..this is clearly the most difficult part…tomorrow will be carving day, I think,...gulp.. ;)
 

Attachments

#311 ·
The hole and the sole - we're almost there!

Well well, 10 actual instructional blogs and 85 pictures later and you have reached the end of the major carving of your shoe! Well done!!!!!
The final blog will be tips on texturing and painting/staining.

The hole
Although this is not hard, it can be tedious, especially at the heel and towards the tongue where you're at the end grains.

1. Before I start, I remeasure my sides and top inside and out just to make sure I remove all of my boo-boo wood.

Walking shoe Cleat Grey Sportswear Outdoor shoe


Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Sportswear Sneakers


2. You can make it easy on yourself if you have a drill press or some wood coring bits to start yourself off - but don't drill too deep. Then I use my rough cylinder or round bit to start digging. Be very careful, neither of these bits like to get stuck in a hole so grind the edges of the drilled holes first, not the insides of them. If you have neither of these hole drilling tools, it will take you just a bit longer to dig but not much.

Leg Outdoor shoe Wood Walking shoe Sneakers


3. Remember, the inside of the shoe follows the contours of the outside, which means that the heel is wider at the bottom than the top. I do most of my straight sides with the cylinder and the deep part of the heel pouch and under the tongue with the ball.
When I reach the bottom, I use the flat end of my cylinder to smooth the base of the foot area. Later you can add a few holes to make it look like you have a textured insole or foot pad.
My shoe has a lot of padding but I don't like to leave it as thick in those spots but you may use your own discretion as to the detail you'd like to put on the edge of the opening.

Food Jaw Ingredient Wood Cuisine


Wood Beige Tints and shades Comfort Hardwood


Your shoe should really look like a shoe now!
Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Sneakers


The sole
4. I do not expect you to carve the treads of the sole. I don't. Why? Because I may be a perfectionist but I am not a lunatic!
Actually, most of my little shoes are either used as door knockers or put on a base so rarely do I have reason to do a finished sole.
However, I do draw it on just so I know where to carve the view of the treads that you'll see from the side.

Footwear Shoe Leg Human body Wood


5. My shoe is now completely shaped. I will spend another hour or so straightening and crisping up my detail lines, sanding the fluffy areas with 150 grit sandpaper and deciding where I want to texture and stitch. I can't believe we've made it!!! Give yourselves a pat on the back for not giving up!

Footwear Brown Shoe Outdoor shoe Wood
 

Attachments

#312 ·
The hole and the sole - we're almost there!

Well well, 10 actual instructional blogs and 85 pictures later and you have reached the end of the major carving of your shoe! Well done!!!!!
The final blog will be tips on texturing and painting/staining.

The hole
Although this is not hard, it can be tedious, especially at the heel and towards the tongue where you're at the end grains.

1. Before I start, I remeasure my sides and top inside and out just to make sure I remove all of my boo-boo wood.

Walking shoe Cleat Grey Sportswear Outdoor shoe


Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Sportswear Sneakers


2. You can make it easy on yourself if you have a drill press or some wood coring bits to start yourself off - but don't drill too deep. Then I use my rough cylinder or round bit to start digging. Be very careful, neither of these bits like to get stuck in a hole so grind the edges of the drilled holes first, not the insides of them. If you have neither of these hole drilling tools, it will take you just a bit longer to dig but not much.

Leg Outdoor shoe Wood Walking shoe Sneakers


3. Remember, the inside of the shoe follows the contours of the outside, which means that the heel is wider at the bottom than the top. I do most of my straight sides with the cylinder and the deep part of the heel pouch and under the tongue with the ball.
When I reach the bottom, I use the flat end of my cylinder to smooth the base of the foot area. Later you can add a few holes to make it look like you have a textured insole or foot pad.
My shoe has a lot of padding but I don't like to leave it as thick in those spots but you may use your own discretion as to the detail you'd like to put on the edge of the opening.

Food Jaw Ingredient Wood Cuisine


Wood Beige Tints and shades Comfort Hardwood


Your shoe should really look like a shoe now!
Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Sneakers


The sole
4. I do not expect you to carve the treads of the sole. I don't. Why? Because I may be a perfectionist but I am not a lunatic!
Actually, most of my little shoes are either used as door knockers or put on a base so rarely do I have reason to do a finished sole.
However, I do draw it on just so I know where to carve the view of the treads that you'll see from the side.

Footwear Shoe Leg Human body Wood


5. My shoe is now completely shaped. I will spend another hour or so straightening and crisping up my detail lines, sanding the fluffy areas with 150 grit sandpaper and deciding where I want to texture and stitch. I can't believe we've made it!!! Give yourselves a pat on the back for not giving up!

Footwear Brown Shoe Outdoor shoe Wood
so close and yet so far … still hung up on the laces … but I can see that light at the end of the tunnel. Sure helps.
 

Attachments

#315 ·
Reminder to challengees

Please remember to email me once you've gotten to the last blog so I know when to get the texturing and painting blog up. I'm doing final preparations for the woodworking show this week but I have a few hours to spare somewhere in there to provide some tips.
I just need to know who is close to finishing and will be ready for the unveiling.


~ Hairy
~ Theresa
~ MsDeb
~ Aaron
~ Bill
~ sticks4walking
~ Reggiek
 
#321 ·
The end - tips on texturing and painting

Here we are - the final blog in the shoe challenge series. I know some of you are finished and some of you are nearing the end and some of you are half way through. That's fine, there's still lots of time.

I wanted to give you some tips on finishing your shoe and because some of the details probably can't be seen by camera until painted over, I'm going to draw some of my texture on my shoe just to shoe you what I mean. I will do this throughout today.

If you have any questions specific to your own shoe, please let me know because some of you have not sent me the shoe your working on.

1. Wrinkles - for those of you who are doing leather, in the creases of your shoe, use your pointed diamond to score them. Don't overdo it but you can overlap some of the webbing of the wrinkles. I'm not going to do it in this part of my shoe because it's not leather but I will do it on the leather part of the banding. Lightly sand off the edges the bit leaves. I'll try do do it on this shoe but I can't be sure it will show, but nevertheless, this is the type of pattern I would want.
Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Creative arts Sneakers

I turned the contrast way up to try to capture this.
Footwear Jeans Shoe Outdoor shoe Wood


2. Stippling - I often do this for other carvings as it lends itself to a really neat appearance.

For the rubber part of my sole, I'm going to take a round diamond and dot the entire area with little half holes, overlapping them until they look all mushed together - not like a dot pattern. Once again, I will smooth the fluffs off with sandpaper.

3. Netting - On my shoe, there are large holes in the netting fabric but that doesn't seem practical for a carving so I basically took my cylinder diamond and drew lines vertically and horizontally. You don't have to score in one sweep as if you boob on a line, there will be so many, nobody would ever notice.

4. Stitching - there are many ways to simulate stitches including wood burning, simple little holes with a sharp diamond, indents with a small cylinder(which I did to save time) or actually leaving a stitch high by grinding v-grooves around it. I do that on my larger pieces.

So if you look at my shoe, you'll see that I textured, stippled and stitched and now all of my carving is done! Once again I increased the contrast so this would show up.

Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Sports equipment Beige Sportswear


Painting.

I hate white! I think it was Bateman who says he rarely uses pure white or pure black in his paintings. Basswood is quite a white wood so for my white, ie.laces or rubber sole sides, I'm going to use a simple craft multi purpose sealer. Once dry, your wood will be the same color as before it was applied. If I wanted it to be a bit yellow like a debarked log, I might use a Flecto satin finish but again, sometimes it turns your wood a bit yellowish and would definitely pick up any browner streaks in the wood.

I also have to decide every time if I want my piece to be painted or stained. If I use paint for a black or brown leather shoe, I would use a craft acrylic and then finish it with a satin clear coat. If I was going to use a stain, I would choose a transparent non glossy stain - I use Minwax and most often Golden Oak or Puritan pine for a bit browner weathered look. The more coats you apply, the shinier it will get as well as darker.

If you want to roughen the look of your item, take some fine steel wool and rub the high spots, this will remove some of the stain.

If you're using black, remember, it's the finish that will determine the shade of your black. You can use the same acrylic on all of the black except for the fabric areas, use thin washes of the black rather than full strength. The color will show when it's dry and it will sink in somewhat so you may need to do a few washes. On total black shoes, you must separate your blacks somehow so if your sole is also black, make the washes thinner for faded rubber or add a satin clear coat for shiny rubber. The same goes for the laces.

So if you have a nice black leather shoe with a satin clear coat, you can leave your laces flat by just washing them with a thin black. Then leave your sole either as shiny or dull as your original.

I have discovered, since starting to paint pictures, that light washes are far more versatile than full strength paint and I doubt that I will ever buy premixed colors again as the basic magenta, black, yellow, white and blue are where they all come from.

I will work on painting my shoe now and provide a photo soon.

In the meantime, I've just completed my own challenge, my first ever painting. I'm more pleased with the painting than the photo of it, hope I get a new camera for Christmas. Nevertheless, I learned so much throughout and can't wait to start on a second.
Horse Vertebrate Working animal Liver Horse tack


It's been a pleasure tutoring you.
 

Attachments

#322 ·
The end - tips on texturing and painting

Here we are - the final blog in the shoe challenge series. I know some of you are finished and some of you are nearing the end and some of you are half way through. That's fine, there's still lots of time.

I wanted to give you some tips on finishing your shoe and because some of the details probably can't be seen by camera until painted over, I'm going to draw some of my texture on my shoe just to shoe you what I mean. I will do this throughout today.

If you have any questions specific to your own shoe, please let me know because some of you have not sent me the shoe your working on.

1. Wrinkles - for those of you who are doing leather, in the creases of your shoe, use your pointed diamond to score them. Don't overdo it but you can overlap some of the webbing of the wrinkles. I'm not going to do it in this part of my shoe because it's not leather but I will do it on the leather part of the banding. Lightly sand off the edges the bit leaves. I'll try do do it on this shoe but I can't be sure it will show, but nevertheless, this is the type of pattern I would want.
Footwear Shoe Outdoor shoe Creative arts Sneakers

I turned the contrast way up to try to capture this.
Footwear Jeans Shoe Outdoor shoe Wood


2. Stippling - I often do this for other carvings as it lends itself to a really neat appearance.

For the rubber part of my sole, I'm going to take a round diamond and dot the entire area with little half holes, overlapping them until they look all mushed together - not like a dot pattern. Once again, I will smooth the fluffs off with sandpaper.

3. Netting - On my shoe, there are large holes in the netting fabric but that doesn't seem practical for a carving so I basically took my cylinder diamond and drew lines vertically and horizontally. You don't have to score in one sweep as if you boob on a line, there will be so many, nobody would ever notice.

4. Stitching - there are many ways to simulate stitches including wood burning, simple little holes with a sharp diamond, indents with a small cylinder(which I did to save time) or actually leaving a stitch high by grinding v-grooves around it. I do that on my larger pieces.

So if you look at my shoe, you'll see that I textured, stippled and stitched and now all of my carving is done! Once again I increased the contrast so this would show up.

Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Sports equipment Beige Sportswear


Painting.

I hate white! I think it was Bateman who says he rarely uses pure white or pure black in his paintings. Basswood is quite a white wood so for my white, ie.laces or rubber sole sides, I'm going to use a simple craft multi purpose sealer. Once dry, your wood will be the same color as before it was applied. If I wanted it to be a bit yellow like a debarked log, I might use a Flecto satin finish but again, sometimes it turns your wood a bit yellowish and would definitely pick up any browner streaks in the wood.

I also have to decide every time if I want my piece to be painted or stained. If I use paint for a black or brown leather shoe, I would use a craft acrylic and then finish it with a satin clear coat. If I was going to use a stain, I would choose a transparent non glossy stain - I use Minwax and most often Golden Oak or Puritan pine for a bit browner weathered look. The more coats you apply, the shinier it will get as well as darker.

If you want to roughen the look of your item, take some fine steel wool and rub the high spots, this will remove some of the stain.

If you're using black, remember, it's the finish that will determine the shade of your black. You can use the same acrylic on all of the black except for the fabric areas, use thin washes of the black rather than full strength. The color will show when it's dry and it will sink in somewhat so you may need to do a few washes. On total black shoes, you must separate your blacks somehow so if your sole is also black, make the washes thinner for faded rubber or add a satin clear coat for shiny rubber. The same goes for the laces.

So if you have a nice black leather shoe with a satin clear coat, you can leave your laces flat by just washing them with a thin black. Then leave your sole either as shiny or dull as your original.

I have discovered, since starting to paint pictures, that light washes are far more versatile than full strength paint and I doubt that I will ever buy premixed colors again as the basic magenta, black, yellow, white and blue are where they all come from.

I will work on painting my shoe now and provide a photo soon.

In the meantime, I've just completed my own challenge, my first ever painting. I'm more pleased with the painting than the photo of it, hope I get a new camera for Christmas. Nevertheless, I learned so much throughout and can't wait to start on a second.
Horse Vertebrate Working animal Liver Horse tack


It's been a pleasure tutoring you.
hmmm my shoe sure doesn't look like your shoe (saying with a grin)
 

Attachments

#338 ·
Time to finish up and get ready for the unveiling

Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Art Sneakers


Well wouldn't ya know it - just when I need it most, my camera died so I had to try it with the Ipod - not so great.
At any rate, this is not about me, it is about YOU and your SHOE.

I have decided that the unveiling will be on Friday, Nov. 12th. so it's time to finish your masterpiece.
Considering the time zones are different, I will contact Martin about how you will post your photos ahead of that day so that they can be shown to your LJ buddies together.

As far as I know, there are 7 confirmed participants that will be ready but there were some stragglers who I haven't heard from yet so if you're out there, please email me so I can keep you informed of the plans.

I'm very eager to see what you've all done and am truly pleased that some of you survived all the way through!!!!!!
Congratulations to the Great Lumberjock Shoe Challenge Survivors!
 

Attachments

#339 ·
Time to finish up and get ready for the unveiling

Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Art Sneakers


Well wouldn't ya know it - just when I need it most, my camera died so I had to try it with the Ipod - not so great.
At any rate, this is not about me, it is about YOU and your SHOE.

I have decided that the unveiling will be on Friday, Nov. 12th. so it's time to finish your masterpiece.
Considering the time zones are different, I will contact Martin about how you will post your photos ahead of that day so that they can be shown to your LJ buddies together.

As far as I know, there are 7 confirmed participants that will be ready but there were some stragglers who I haven't heard from yet so if you're out there, please email me so I can keep you informed of the plans.

I'm very eager to see what you've all done and am truly pleased that some of you survived all the way through!!!!!!
Congratulations to the Great Lumberjock Shoe Challenge Survivors!
it has been interesting, that's for sure and in the end I do have a "shoe".
Would never have done it without you, Jordan. Thank you
and I, too, can't wait to see everyone's creations.
 

Attachments

#340 ·
Time to finish up and get ready for the unveiling

Shoe Outdoor shoe Walking shoe Art Sneakers


Well wouldn't ya know it - just when I need it most, my camera died so I had to try it with the Ipod - not so great.
At any rate, this is not about me, it is about YOU and your SHOE.

I have decided that the unveiling will be on Friday, Nov. 12th. so it's time to finish your masterpiece.
Considering the time zones are different, I will contact Martin about how you will post your photos ahead of that day so that they can be shown to your LJ buddies together.

As far as I know, there are 7 confirmed participants that will be ready but there were some stragglers who I haven't heard from yet so if you're out there, please email me so I can keep you informed of the plans.

I'm very eager to see what you've all done and am truly pleased that some of you survived all the way through!!!!!!
Congratulations to the Great Lumberjock Shoe Challenge Survivors!
Jordon" I stated that I as in for your challenging project

However I've been busy on the toys that we make for kids. I just finish up 100 of the cars last night. So I won't be able to post any work that never got started. I did buy the basswood, but that was the closest I got to get started.
 

Attachments

#366 ·
Shoe Challengers Unveiled!

Glasses Shoe Outdoor shoe Fawn Walking shoe


Hello fellow Lumberjocks.
Over the course of the next few hours, I will be posting the finished footwear of the survivors of The Great Lumberjocks Shoe Challenge 2010 to the projects page.
Although there were 22 people who decided to take the challenge, for various reasons only 7 were left standing. However, it was so worthwhile as I saw talent emerge from those who thought they had none, and some who decided that carving would be a great asset to their present wood working skills. I felt the pride of these folks and saw the risks that some of them took to be different.
Thank you for following along and presenting us with over 10,000 reads. Anyone wishing to complete this challenge at a later date can tag their project with shoe challenge.
Although I will be posting the entries, I will post them individually under names of those who completed the works so that they may receive their own comments.
To the challengers, you can all look forward to your little prize designed especially for this challenge.
Congratulations to all.
 

Attachments

#367 ·
Shoe Challengers Unveiled!

Glasses Shoe Outdoor shoe Fawn Walking shoe


Hello fellow Lumberjocks.
Over the course of the next few hours, I will be posting the finished footwear of the survivors of The Great Lumberjocks Shoe Challenge 2010 to the projects page.
Although there were 22 people who decided to take the challenge, for various reasons only 7 were left standing. However, it was so worthwhile as I saw talent emerge from those who thought they had none, and some who decided that carving would be a great asset to their present wood working skills. I felt the pride of these folks and saw the risks that some of them took to be different.
Thank you for following along and presenting us with over 10,000 reads. Anyone wishing to complete this challenge at a later date can tag their project with shoe challenge.
Although I will be posting the entries, I will post them individually under names of those who completed the works so that they may receive their own comments.
To the challengers, you can all look forward to your little prize designed especially for this challenge.
Congratulations to all.
Love your shoe, very cute! I'm looking forward the rest of them.

Erwin, Jacksonville, FL
 

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