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30K views 37 replies 17 participants last post by  Dennisgrosen 
#1 ·
Tool Gloat

Well, here is the other big tool purchase I made recently (spray can for scale).


closer shot:


This saw was posted on ebay, but there appeared to be some inaccurate information on it (model number never existed, blade size was incorrect, serial number was never produced, etc). I wasn't able to get answers to my questions before bidding closed, so I passed on it. Apparently everyone else did too. I suspect it was a combination of a confusing description, making a big purchase without testing it out, and the shipping costs associated with crating a saw that ways over 200 lbs. I visited the seller and checked out the item at their location (a used tool reseller). Most things looked to be in good condition with 4 exceptions:

1) the crank only lowers the arm, it will not move back up. This is most certainly due to dirt because if I REALLY crank it, it will go back up but feels like it is stuck.

2) The power lock was removed and rewired as shown in the photos (pretty typical)


3) The original table is gone but more importantly, the "Right End Cleat", part T-10 in the manual is bent. I'll need to search out a replacement part.




4) The rubber dust shoot is torn up


The positives are that the paint is in pretty good shape, I see no real rust (except minor surface rust on the stand), the saw has all it's original knobs (removed in the photos), and I was told the saw does run.

I plan to refurbish this saw as opposed to doing a full restoration. I think that if I can get a replacement cleat and a used copy of the Mr Sawdust book, I should be able to make this into a nice user saw.

Even if I get a replacement cleat, I don't think I'll keep the old table. It looks pretty thrown together, although I admit I haven't used these saws much. I still think I can do better.


I already put the saw on a wheeled cart that I made. I can push this thing around like it doesn't weigh a thing. Finding space is the tougher trick.


I'm debating using this saw to replace my compound miter saw, or at least packing the miter saw up and pulling it out for occasional use. This seems like it is much better suited for 90 degree crosscuts and I'd also love to use this for cutting dadoes to make some built in bookshelves. Any thoughts or advice on cleaning this guy up? Thoughts on my proposed uses?
 
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#2 ·
I have a 9" one from that era, mid 50"s that I inherited from my father. I use it all the time for just what you said, crosscutting and dados. As far as the bent piece, just take it to a welding shop and they heat and straighten it. If the threads in the hole are buggered they can fix that also.

Richard
 
#4 ·
The Mr. Sawdust book will have information on a replacement table. It appears that the motor has been replaced with a different era version. The on/off switch is on the motor, while the original was likely on the arm. A very good source of more information than you will know what to do with can be found at:

http://people.delphiforums.com/snotzalot/sawdust/
 
#5 ·
You can straighten out the cleat easy if you have a wide metal vice handy. Just sqaueeze it in the vice to take out the kink. A few taps with a BFH on an anvil (many metal vices have a surface intended for this at the back of the fixed jaw) should finish the job, then grab a tap of the correcty size to clean up the threads and it's ready to use.
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys. I may just take it to my local metal fabricators to see what they would charge. I don't really have the tools or know how to do any metal working (I don't even have a vice for woodworking yet).

As for the motor, I wasn't sure if it was original but th motor plate does say it is a dewalt on it and it also has the 1.5 hp rating (again according to the plate). If it is not original, I don't think that matters much to me. I do care that it is 1.5 hp though. That's why I sought out the GWI so that dados wouldn't be a problem.

I'll check out the forum this weekend. Thanks for the great posts and comments.
 
#7 ·
I know from expeerience that if you try to straighten it out cold there is a very good chance that it will break sin it bent right where the hole for one of lthe adjusting screws is.

P.S. Mine does fine on dados and it only has a 1/2 hp motor, so you will be ok.

Richard
 
#9 ·
I would just scrap the cleats and use the newer style cleats that dewalt used. Basically just angle iron. One on each side and one in the middle. You can even use Aluminum if you want since it is easier to work than steel.

If you check out the forum mentioned above there have been plenty of discussions on the topic.

Saw looks like a great find!

I believe what you are missing on the arm is the voltage selector but I could be wrong. The GWI's had a switch to change voltage, or course you had to change the plug also.
 
#10 ·
CutNRun
You look to be correct on the motor. I was just looking at some photos on OWWM.com and it looks like an original motor would have had matching green paint. That being said, I think that the replacement is either and exact or very close replica. All the GW saws I see have a toggle switch on the motor. They also have a keyed safety switch on the arm, which I am definitely missing. Thanks for the heads up. I'm curious if others will seem more interesting tidbits that I've missed. It wouldn't surprise me.
 
#11 ·
I would not be concerned about the motor, since there were never any replacements made by anyone other than Dewalt. Either someone swapped out the motor for another GWI motor, or someone had the motor rewound. I believe that during the process the windings are baked which usually destroys the original paint.
 
#17 ·
My saw is just like your photo. It is a 10" with a 3 phase motor. I had a 1 phase conver built for a cost of about $250. The saw came from the Uof W in Washington State. I bought it for $27.50 ( people did not know how to work with the 3 phase) I went on line and rebuilt they cost about $1500
 
#20 ·
You will find that the elevation mechanism is very simple to disassemble and repair-it's just threaded rod that runs through a (fixed) bronze bushing. There's are no hidden parts or tricky assemblies. Just don't lose the pin when you drive it out of the crank handle. If you're correct about dirt being the issue, you'll have it squared away in no time.
 
#22 ·
I have a quick question for you. I'm picking one of these up this week, and I have a small car. How easily will this thing break down will simple tools (socket wrench etc.)?? My biggest concern is the base…. I have a mazda sedan.

I could ask my neighbor who has a truck, but this thing is an hour away.

thanks in advance.
 
#23 ·
Everything is in parts

I broke everything down. I'm working on trying to clean up all the parts. It is slow going because I've been cleaning up the garage trying to clear up space. In the pictures below, you can see the mess of parts. I'm afraid the project will be going on hold for a little while as I add a little bit of shop storage. The problem at the moment is that I have ZERO storage so EVERY tool I own is on my workbench. That leaves no space to actually work. I'm going to build a mobile cart that will have my drill press, miter saw, and bandsaw. It is going to be 4 feet wide, and about 3 feet tall (plus 4 inches for casters). Underneath there will be drawers and cabinets. I'll blog that when I get to it, but here is are photos of the RAS all broken down.



Here are the roller bearings I'm having some trouble cleaning.
 
#31 ·
More disassembly and some cleaning

Well, Neil has been making such good progress on his blog, it inspired me to get some work done. His work is here (but seriously Neil, these should be in blogs so I don't miss em' (-: )
part 1
part 2
part 3
part 4

So my plan was to build a Mr Sawdust table. The problem is that the instructions to size the table require you to measure the travel in the arm. Since my saw was 80% disassembled, I figured a change of plans was in order. One of the few problems with my old saw was that the column wasn't moving up and down smoothly. The first step to fixing this was to remove the base of the column so I removed the bolts:



This thing was heavy. Must be about 50 lbs. I set it down and removed the two bolts in the side that attach the column to the base. I was surprised to find this brass piece fall out from the inside. It also holds the acme thread (the threaded rod that raises/lowers the column):





Once the column (and guidebar) were separated, I dropped all the hardware in a jar of evaporust so they will be ready for me when I need them. Then on to the hard work. It was time to clean the base and column. I put some WD-40 (i bought a gallon) on the column and sanded with 400 and 600 grit. I didn't really go for a polished look. I just removed some of the old grease that had turned gummy. I also did the mating surface of the base. Once it was smooth and clean, I applied some past wax to both surfaces.





Oh yeah, and the bottom of the base was rusty for some reason so I sanded that too. Not perfect, but pretty good:



Next I cleaned off the brass piece and the acme thread. I used mineral spirits to get more of the gummy grease off. Here it is all cleaned off.





I think I'm going to have trouble explaining the next part but I'll try anyway.

When it was time to reassemble the column,I had to do some things in a different order. I needed to attach the base first so that was pretty easy. The problem is that next I need to screw the bolts through the base, the column, and into the brass piece I showed above. That may not seem to bad, but the column weighs about 40 lbs. The only way to attach it is to keep the column all the way up and squeeze your hand into the frame. If it slips, I'm pretty sure it would break my fingers. I came up with a simple solution. I wedged a piece of 3/4" plywood into the slot in the column to keep it elevated while attaching it:



I got it reattached and put the acme thread back in (I put 3-in-1 oil on it. we'll see how that works). Then I had to call it quits because it was 2AM. I hope you guys are enjoying the blog so far. I hope I can make some more progress soon, but we'll see when I get to it.

The next steps will be to work on the arm itself and the adjustment levers. I'm also trying to unfreeze the roller bearings. I've got 3 of them at 80% and another seems like it is still only at 20%. I REALLY don't want to buy new ones at $26 a piece so I can't give up yet. Stay tuned!
 
#32 ·
a) That's AWESOME !!!

I've been counting on spray solvents, bottle brushes, and luck, so far ;-)

b) I think I just paid $14.75/ea for the roller bearings, from Wolfe Machinery. I was pretty hesitant, but-like you-understand that grease breaks down over time.

In this case, I had to assume that would so subtle damage to the ball bearings, and really didn't feel like replacing bearings and repacking grease. I figured I'd start fresh-known quantity-and then maintain them in a few years, if necessary.

I got ALL the play out of my elevator lift crank-or whatever it's called-and the raise/lower action is like butter.

I'm positive you'll wind up with the same result.

Cheers !
 
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