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Ridgid 3660 and 3650 are good saws for the money especially if you were able to get that 10% or 20% off of the blowout price of 399. But being a contractor saws, they have few shortcoming. My main gripe with this saw has always been the power switch.

Although I do like the removable safety key feature of the switch, Still in an emergency when every nano second counts, this switch is a disaster waiting to happen.
Hence…this upgrade.

Parts used: ¼ inch aluminum plate 5000 series. wire adapters. Rubber grommet (snap bushing) cable protect. 20 AMP Paddle Safety "Motor" Power Switch. (15AMP Router table switches will do) Few miscellaneous screws and nuts.

Since this was going to be a permanent modification, I decided to make it as clean and EZ on the eyes as possible. Cutting the plate to useful width and cleaning the sharp edges, bending it to 135 degree angle for mounting to the fence as the original. Mounting the rubber grommets and using wire adapters to preserve the original wire connectors and going a little overboard and using tap on few screw holes.

I tested the switch with my multimeter before mounting it making sure no shorts in the switch. And last decision was deciding on a comfortable location to the left.
The most difficult and time consuming part was trying to get the angle connectors through the rubber grommets but despite that, To me this upgrade was worth the few hours and approximately extra $40.
It provides the safety that should have been included in the first place.

Gallery

Comments

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Nice work.

If it is an "ON/OFF" switch/toggle swith (other than switch with circuit breaker) it is just the mechanism to connect the circut. I maybe wrong.
Ok, does it matter whether it's used for 110V OR 220V motor and also for 60hz OR 50hz power supply?
I bought one of this switch in US but not sure whether I can use iin my country with the power supply frequency of 50hz.
If you have info on this issue, please share with me coz as far as electricity is concerned, my knoledge is almost zero.
 

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930 Posts
Real Nice work, would like to see a front view of the TS to see how it looks over all!
 

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THX

These types of switches are basically on/off switch in parallel configuration and wiring is done in series across the two sections.
So, power cable is connected to line side and motor cable is connected to load side.
Hots (white) across from each other and Negative (black) across from each other. As in the pictures 3. Ground (green) is connected inside box. Although I have my grounds connecting to that screw that's making contact in the back. They are rated for either 110 or 220 with same connection configuration. Frequency 60Hz or 50Hz also does not matter. The only thing that matters is the amp rating. The switch I used is rated for 20 AMP. Most other switches of this type are rated at 15Amp. Although the original 3660 power switch was rated at 15amp.
 

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Nice clean looking installation. And thanks for the wiring explanation. You made it so clear, even I could understand it.
Roger
 

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Thanks Routerisstillmyname!
 

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I also have this ridgid TS and I agree that the power switch sucks. A TS should be EASY to turn off. I find myself fumbling for the switch every time I go to turn this saw off. After seeing your switch I can't view it as an option but a necessity. Good job router
 

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I like it, I have the same saw and hate the power switch too! Looks like a new project this weekend. Thanks for the post.
 

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If you have a 3660 or 3650, I would recommend this.
The last picture I just loaded should make it clearer on the wiring. off switch being white wires. On switch, black
And the green inside.
 

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Nice job, I need to do this for my jointer. The switch has come loose and won't turn off at all unless I unplug. needless to say that is scary unsafe. Maybe that's why I'm using so many hand planes these days
 

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Hey thanks for your post and the pictures! I have the exact saw and I have the same beef. I am round up the parts when I came across your post. It was very helpful. Thanks Guy Pflugerville, Tx
 

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Thats a good Idea
 

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nice work
 
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