This is my first time using a Blog, so I'll give it my best. Long ago I documented my work in the shop with pictorial essays (they are still on my website), but after a while started to realize that video would be more effective. I currently have something like 113 videos on my channel at YouTube (AndyPitts1000), mostly documenting single projects, but my series "Saturday in the Woodworking Shop" is a weekly ongoing monologue about what is going on here. Please feel free to turn the monologue into a dialog with your questions and comments. Here's the link to the first in the series. Andy
Welcome to LumberJocks- I really appreciate your videos and "fine" workmanship. You were my inspiration in getting or adding a CNC to my shop. Now that I have one and enjoy what it adds - I hope others are inspired by you to get one.
Today I'm talking about restoring a rising top trestle coffee table, drawing bows, what I like about Bessey K-body clamps, and the Virginia Artisan Trails.
This series follows work in my shop, plus a lot of other interesting and useful insights (I hope that they are useful, anyway ;-). In this video I'm continuing to refurbish a rising top coffee table, I show the Dandy Lift for moving heavy stuff around the shop (really saves my back), and I show the different types and thicknesses of veneers for various purposes in my work. I think you will like it.
In this weekly video I'm talking about adding an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) to my ShopBot Desktop, plus answering questions about vacuum hold down pucks.
Every week (mostly) I make a 10 minute video of what has gone on in the shop, questions, and such from the past week. In this episode I decided to show what I've learned about the bandsaw in the 35 years I've owned my machine, a 14" Delta. Hope something in here will help you. Andy
Today I am talking about woodshop dust collection, and about how I designed and built my cyclone separator and dust collection system using guidance from Bill Pentz (BillPentz.com), piping from Spiral Mfg, and filters from Wynn Environmental.
Yes, I did use T's at the jointer and bandsaw, where space is limited. I don't find it to be a problem, but the run of ducting under the floor to the cylcone is pretty short right there. Also, these T's have a chamfered corner, so that helps.
Today I'm talking about how I maintain my lumber stash ready for building furniture where I live in humid eastern Virginia. Left to it's own in an unconditioned space, my kiln dried lumber (6-8% MC) would gradually migrate toward 12 % MC, so I've solved that by dehumidifying my storage location. Nothing high tech, here, but it works. In my work I like to start out with wood of a known moisture content, approximately the equilibrium moisture content for the intended environment, then use construction methods that will allow wood movement, regardless of where the furniture ends up living. I've found that methodology to work well with complex and "tight" designs and constructions.
I bought my Woodmizer sawmill in 2001 in preparation to mill a lot of eastern Virginia hardwood. I had milled lumber in the 1980's and had air dried it (on the East Coast of the US) and had powder post beetle damage. So, I researched those critters and discovered that the holes I saw were exit holes from the beetles. They lay eggs in cracks in wood, then the eggs hatch to become larvae, then beetles. To kill the larvae required heat, about 130 degrees F core temperature for an hour would do it. Hence, I built a solar kiln to dry the lumber from my mill. The added benefit of the solar kiln was fully dried wood, without steaming it. Seemed like a win-win, and ever since I have not seen powder post beetle holes and my wood is dry when I want to use it. Building the kiln was straight forward and not too expensive. Here's more about my kiln:
We hear about "case hardening" regarding lumber drying. What is case hardening, anyway? Is it a problem? Does it always happen when drying lumber? This video will try to explain what case hardening is, how it happens, and why it can be a problem. Hope this helps. Andy
Andy, I posted on your YouTube page, but I'll repeat the question here.
Is there something that can be done to a case hardened board to relieve the stresses short of planing both sides?
Like a mist of water or vapor, for example?
Today I'm talking about how to measure the moisture content of lumber, including oven dry sampling, conductivity moisture meters (pin type) and pinless moisture meters.
Wow, I had no idea what specific gravity even was. This is pretty useful information. I have 3-4 meters and have yet to find two that will give me the same reading. I really don't use them, but assume that someday I'll be good enough to incorporate their use in my shop. Might have stopped me from using that locally milled beech in my bench top that has since cupped.
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