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A OUTDOOR STORAGE SHED FOR MY BBQ GRILL

84K views 185 replies 39 participants last post by  mafe 
#1 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
 

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#2 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
From where I'm sitting, it sounds like you are enjoying the shop time more than the build. The joinery should prove to be a interesting looking shed. So far so good. Stretch it out as long as you can.
 

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#3 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
I agree with you Mike.
Hammer and nails would do ok but being a craftsman like you are gives you a wider choice in the construction methods. Your joinery method will make for a sturdy shed and after you complete the work you will have the good feeling of knowing it was built a much better way. Hope to see more pictures when it's complete!
 

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#4 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Nice, I like it.

And I agree with your choice of technique. It is hard for me to even think of hammer and nail type construction for these framing members. I think you chose well, but don't try to do it professionally.

Steve
 

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#5 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
OK I am off to read up all about Pinned Tenon Joints then will come back.
Wait till you see me three legged miter joint project!
 

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#6 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Ok I am back,
Well that didnt take long..
did you mean pegged? or possibly wedged,
I will look closer at your pictures.

Looking looking looking and reading as well, .....now I get it!, .......I think

Maybe I shall just wait untill the shed has been finished !

This is going to be one interesting Blog!
 

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#7 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
I love it! That is doing it your best way and overkill is not a factor when you are enjoying the work

nice going , my friend!!................cheers, Jim
 

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#8 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Mike,
I think your "SHED" will be a great conversation piece at your cook-outs.
Look forward to seeing the finished product.
 

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#9 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Thanks for the kind words guys. This shed isn't meant to be a showcase for my woodworking skills, but it is about enjoying the work as you have guessed. A nailed timber frame would be just as good and it gets covered with siding anyway, but I try to use every opportunity to maintain the few modest hand skills I possess. I also like it when there is a challenge involved. In this case the challenge is to come up with a front door/cover that will look attractive, but let the rain water run off thoroughly without sitting in any seams and rotting it away. We get a lot rain here so that is an important feature. I haven't got a clue yet as that part of the design. It will have to be finalized when the rest is finished.
 

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#10 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Mike, very happy to read the story of the construction of the shed. This took me back about 30 years when I had constructed a stand for a big fish tank. I thoroughly enjoyed doing mortise and tenon joints pinning them as I did not have a big clamp. I had no access to table saw and band saw and thus my skill was tested.
As usual your narration of the project paying attention to finer details is remarkable. When completed it is going to be a wonderful gift to your wife.

Sharad
 

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#11 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
mike, thank you so much for the great email you sent, i will respond very shortly, i really like this idea and i think its great your doing this like a large custom box, great joinery and so fun to do, i know your wife will be happy with the end results, keep at it my friend, and i know there are more costs to this then just the wood…;)....bob
 

Attachments

#12 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
It'll be a 1st class shed for your big gas grill. :)
 

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#13 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Picture frame Plant Building Houseplant Wood


Picture frame Plant Building Houseplant Wood
 

Attachments

#14 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Hope you don't mind me flipping your photo Mike!

Plant Houseplant Flowerpot Wood Flooring
 

Attachments

#15 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Not at all Tony, but those photos shouldn't even be there. I just took them to experiment. I've been having an issue with posting my Iphone photos in LJ. It keeps turning my correctly oriented photos on their side. The only fix I've found that works so far is to resize my photos before I post them. This has happened recently after Apple made some major changes to their photo app. A real pita.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Hi Mike. I didn't think you wanted those photos here. But what do I know? LOL!
Maybe this might help you….

Plant Water Botany Nature Tree


When I shoot photos holding the phone shown below they post the way I want them to face. Hope it works for you!

Water Plant Sky Building Tree
 

Attachments

#17 ·
CONSTRUCTING THE SIDES

The reason
My wife doesn't like storing our big gas grill in our garden shed because it takes too much space (and she keeps buying more outdoor furniture to store in it over the winter). My solution to keep her sweet is to build a small shed to house the grill year around in the area on our terrace where we use it.

Construction details
The shed isn't too different from any other building and a frame could just be knocked together with a hammer and nails, but what's the fun in that? So looking for a way to stay in my shop and have some fun (it's been raining every day anyway) I decided to do the side frames with mortise and tenon joinery and pinned joints. I know this is way overkill, but I had a lot of fun hand chopping the 12 mortises and I was real pleased that they were the most accurate ones I've ever done!

I did the tenon shoulders on my tablesaw to ensure nice 90 degree cuts, and then I cut off the cheeks and edges with my bandsaw. The glue-up went like a dream on my new big bench. Picture below shows dry assembly of the first side and you can see some of the tenon cuts in the background for use in the 2nd side and a couple of the mortise cuts also on the bench.

Wood Hardwood Engineering Gas Flooring


I also pinned the tenons in place A point about pinned tenons. They are used to draw the tenon shoulders tight to the mortised piece and they are used primarily in lieu of clamps. This is done by slightly offsetting the pin holes in the mortise slightly off-senter to the pin holes in the mortise piece. This is especially helpful if the joint can't be clamped, but if it can be clamped you can glue-up the joints, clamp them, and then drill the pin holes without any offset then glue the pins in which will allow you to remove the clamps right away before the glue dries. This is especially helpful if you don't have a lot of clamps or if they are too unwieldly

The next photo shows the two sides finished. Weather permitting I plan to do a test fitting into the space for the shed tomorrow and to make sure that the grill is a good fit before installing the boards that bind the ends together.

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Engineering


This was actually meant to be posted yesterday, but I'm having some issues with my photo gallery on my MAC.
Thanks very much Tony that is a great help. It's too bad though as I think it is a silly limitation, but at least now I won't be using hours just to get a simple blog posted. I wish my photos were still going through iPhoto. I don't like the new photo app.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Sizing the Shed

You might be wondering why I am going to all the bother with such a heavy construction. Well, the weather gets pretty hairy here in the Fall and Winter, wet and wild! We are very close to the coast and we our house also sits on the highest point in our town which is about 335ft. above sea level, so we get some pretty high winds and strong storms here. I'm not planning to attach it to the house wall as I want it to be easily moveable when we wash and paint the house walls. Luckily it's sitting in a more or less protected place, but it isn't a good idea to be too optimistic.

Test Fitting
With the sides completed I wanted to make sure the actual pieces will actually accommodate my gas grill and also fit the space reserved for it. I plan to cover the sides with the same siding panelling on the house, so it was important to leave some space for the thickness of that panelling on the shed sides in the rather confined space where the shed will be located as shown below. The space between our rain gutter pipe and our washroom window turned out to be just big enough to accommodate the shed. Whew!

Plant Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Plant Wood Rectangle Grass Gas


Watch Hand tool Wood Tool Hardwood


Preparing the Stretchers (connecting pieces)
The farm is constructed with what you would call 2X4's in the States, but which are actually 1-3/8" thick and 3" wide. The stretchers on the back will be the same dimensions while the top stretchers are the 2X4's with half the thickness. I resawed the 2X4's in half for those pieces.

After cutting all the stretchers I marked them for drilling the screw holes for fastening to the end frames, as shown below

This blog is probably pretty boring, but I was out of the loop so long that you can just consider it a sign of life.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Sizing the Shed

You might be wondering why I am going to all the bother with such a heavy construction. Well, the weather gets pretty hairy here in the Fall and Winter, wet and wild! We are very close to the coast and we our house also sits on the highest point in our town which is about 335ft. above sea level, so we get some pretty high winds and strong storms here. I'm not planning to attach it to the house wall as I want it to be easily moveable when we wash and paint the house walls. Luckily it's sitting in a more or less protected place, but it isn't a good idea to be too optimistic.

Test Fitting
With the sides completed I wanted to make sure the actual pieces will actually accommodate my gas grill and also fit the space reserved for it. I plan to cover the sides with the same siding panelling on the house, so it was important to leave some space for the thickness of that panelling on the shed sides in the rather confined space where the shed will be located as shown below. The space between our rain gutter pipe and our washroom window turned out to be just big enough to accommodate the shed. Whew!

Plant Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood


Plant Wood Rectangle Grass Gas


Watch Hand tool Wood Tool Hardwood


Preparing the Stretchers (connecting pieces)
The farm is constructed with what you would call 2X4's in the States, but which are actually 1-3/8" thick and 3" wide. The stretchers on the back will be the same dimensions while the top stretchers are the 2X4's with half the thickness. I resawed the 2X4's in half for those pieces.

After cutting all the stretchers I marked them for drilling the screw holes for fastening to the end frames, as shown below

This blog is probably pretty boring, but I was out of the loop so long that you can just consider it a sign of life.
Good to see you back Mike. That's a fine little shed you are building.
....... maybe a summer camp out spot for a grandkid ….
 

Attachments

#42 ·
Stretchers and Siding Panels

I am back on the job after celebrating my wife's 75th birthday yesterday. We are now slightly over 150 years old combined. We have learned a lot over our lifetimes, but much of it is outdated and we are too tired to use the rest. That's life.

Today's work
I drilled all the screw holes for the boards (I'll call them stretchers) that connect the two sides. I used a bit that drills the hole, countersinks it and leaves a hole for a wood plug. You probably have these or have at least seen them. Combined with plug cutters they are very useful. I am plugging the holes to prevent the screws from rusting in our wet climate. You can see all the stuff including the cut plugs (photo below)

Ruler Wood Tool Rectangle Table


I went to our local building suppliers to buy the panelling this morning. They only had the treated kind and it is always stored outdoors (no cover). It was soaking wet as it was raining hard today. I had to cut it up with a handsaw to get it into the car.

It is the worst quality panelling I've ever seen. Of course they always use the worst quality wood to treat, as the punky fast growing wood allows the pressure applied chemicals to get further into the wood. Also tons of knots, but it will be painted and so it shouldn't look too bad. Here I am cutting it to length on my miter saw (photo below)

Saw Miter saw Wood Workbench Machine tool


Here I am nailing on the panels. I left about an inch or so on both sides of the uprights so I can put put thin wooden strips there the same thickness as the panelling to cover the cut edges of the panels.

The seams between the panel cut edges and the wooden strips will be covered with trim boards. The advantage is that it will look better from the front when the door is opened and it prevents the front and back cut panel edges from drying out unevenly.

I marked panels to correspond with the height of the panels on the house. Each panel requires only 1 nail on each end as it holds the next panel in place in the open groove and so on. This allows the wood on each side of the board to expand and contract without cracking. (Photo below)

Table Wood Workbench Hardwood Wood stain


First side complete. (Photo below)

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Inside view of the first side. (Photo below)

Cabinetry Drawer Wood Wood stain Chest of drawers


And lastly and outside view of the completed 2nd side (Photo below)

Furniture Wood Cabinetry Table Wood stain


That's it for today. I'm thinking fast, but working slow. I'm thinking about how I want to do the top now.

Thanks for looking in.
 

Attachments

#43 ·
Stretchers and Siding Panels

I am back on the job after celebrating my wife's 75th birthday yesterday. We are now slightly over 150 years old combined. We have learned a lot over our lifetimes, but much of it is outdated and we are too tired to use the rest. That's life.

Today's work
I drilled all the screw holes for the boards (I'll call them stretchers) that connect the two sides. I used a bit that drills the hole, countersinks it and leaves a hole for a wood plug. You probably have these or have at least seen them. Combined with plug cutters they are very useful. I am plugging the holes to prevent the screws from rusting in our wet climate. You can see all the stuff including the cut plugs (photo below)

Ruler Wood Tool Rectangle Table


I went to our local building suppliers to buy the panelling this morning. They only had the treated kind and it is always stored outdoors (no cover). It was soaking wet as it was raining hard today. I had to cut it up with a handsaw to get it into the car.

It is the worst quality panelling I've ever seen. Of course they always use the worst quality wood to treat, as the punky fast growing wood allows the pressure applied chemicals to get further into the wood. Also tons of knots, but it will be painted and so it shouldn't look too bad. Here I am cutting it to length on my miter saw (photo below)

Saw Miter saw Wood Workbench Machine tool


Here I am nailing on the panels. I left about an inch or so on both sides of the uprights so I can put put thin wooden strips there the same thickness as the panelling to cover the cut edges of the panels.

The seams between the panel cut edges and the wooden strips will be covered with trim boards. The advantage is that it will look better from the front when the door is opened and it prevents the front and back cut panel edges from drying out unevenly.

I marked panels to correspond with the height of the panels on the house. Each panel requires only 1 nail on each end as it holds the next panel in place in the open groove and so on. This allows the wood on each side of the board to expand and contract without cracking. (Photo below)

Table Wood Workbench Hardwood Wood stain


First side complete. (Photo below)

Table Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank


Inside view of the first side. (Photo below)

Cabinetry Drawer Wood Wood stain Chest of drawers


And lastly and outside view of the completed 2nd side (Photo below)

Furniture Wood Cabinetry Table Wood stain


That's it for today. I'm thinking fast, but working slow. I'm thinking about how I want to do the top now.

Thanks for looking in.
What ever you use for the roof it will be a great BBQ shed.
 

Attachments

#57 ·
Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)

Table Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain


You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)

Wood Wood stain Floor Hardwood Plank


Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)

Plant Window Flowerpot Wood Flooring


After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)

Plant Property Green Window Wood


Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)

Wood Plant Rectangle Wood stain Floor


Window Plant Wood Rectangle Desk


That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)

Plant Building Window Road surface Wood


Thanks for looking in.
 

Attachments

#58 ·
Assembling the structure

In the shop
Today I first nailed woodstrips from the top to bottom on the front and back legs. These are thin strips used to cover the cut ends of the panel boards and act as a platform for nailing on the corner trim later.

Next the strips were slightly planed to bring them even with the front and back legs. as shown here with one end in the vise and the other on my deadman which anchors to the bench top. Yes, I am showing off my bench accessories! The boards on the floor will cover the top as a substrate for the shingles and also for the front door, which I plan to build last. (See Below)



You can also see that the stretchers which connect the two sides will be sitting in the cut-out spaces provided for them. This keeps the back smooth for the rest of the panelling. (See Below)



Outdoors on the side terrace
I hauled everything out to assemble it. Here you see the how the stretchers connect the sides on the back. I have used three because it is necessary to add stiffness to the structure since there will be no support at the front except for the a top connector. I also have to add a vertical piece which I forgot so that I can also nail the back panel boards in the center because they are pretty long.
(See Below)



After turning the shed upright I was able to install the top stretchers. The panel boards for the top will be nailed to these. All of the stretchers are screwed on and the wooden plugs glued on top of that to prevent them rusting. (See Below)



Now it was time for another test fit with the side panelling installed. Just made it between the roof drain pipe and window molding with no room to spare! Luck or skill? Probably a little bit of both.

You can see that I have added a board across the front which will help support the top panels and give a more substantial appearance to the top. I will be using fairly thin tongue and groove panelling for the top that leaves a nice flat surface for the asphalt shingles and also allows the shingles to be nailed to them.

The panels seams nicely lined up with the ones on the house, but I had to shim the right side a little to compensate for the slight fall of the terrace boards which helps water to run off as it rains, rains, and rains here. If you are tired of droughts and burnt out lawns, this is the place to be!!
(See Below)





That covers the days work. I didn't really get a lot done, but I did get tired running back and forth from the shop getting this and that. The last thing I did was to put the grill in place. (See Below)



Thanks for looking in.
Well done Mike ! Or should that be rare ? Like the whole idea and the execution.
 

Attachments

#73 ·
The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)

Plant Window Wood Wood stain Road surface


Wood Road surface Shade Asphalt Rectangle


My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.
 

Attachments

#74 ·
The Roof

Laying the Shingles
Just a short update. I got the asphalt shingles for the roof. The shingle substrate is 3/4" tongue and groove panel boards on the top. The boards run from the back to the front. I left enough room on both ends for molding so the ends of the boards on the front and back could be covered.

I haven't put on any aphalt shingles before. The info that came with them said to use a special knife to trim them with. This is a knife that has a curved blade that forms a hook. I wasn't able to find such a knife at the store so I just used a regular utility knife. This made the job a lot harder and I suggest that if you use this type of shingle that you will be very glad to have a hooked knife. Anyway, I stayed at it and got the job done ok. Another thing that is essential in my opinion is to have a good roofing glue cartridge to stick any shingles where the adhesive they contain doesn't stick very well. I did use it.

Usually the last row at the top edge of a normal roof has a square shingle (several on one length) which goes over the top to the other side of a regular roof. In my case the roof is a lean-to which ends abruptly at it's peak, so instead of the square shingles I had enough of the triangle shaped shingles I had trimmed off the sides to cover the bare spots left on the next to the last row at the top and glued them in. This gave a consistent pattern all the way to the top and I'm pretty happy with it. (See Below)





My local building supplier had only black shingles, which I bought, but I later found the red ones at another store that match my roof tile colors, so I bought those and returned the black ones.

Work yet to be done
Now I just have to build the front doors, install the hinges and bolt lock and nail on the trim. A professional carpenter could probably build this thing is in a day or two, but I am going at in my usual pace.

Thanks for reading.
you know mike
thru-out life
i have pondered
what a retired american merchant seaman
would do about his bbq in norway
to protect it from the elements

you have put that to rest finally for me
in a new way i never imagined
i can go on now to other perplexing questions

who's on first
where's my shoes
is stephen hawkings right
is reba looking for me

medium for me please

enjoy your summer
 

Attachments

#100 ·
Door Frames - Mortising work

It's been awhile since my last installment on this project. I had to install a burnt out garage door opener and change the tires on my car. That was supposed to be finished Saturday after last, but I messed up my back working on the opener and I had to take a whole week off to recover.

Today's work
I started on the doors today. I have been agonizing myself trying to decide between what I would have liked, that is, a frame and panel door, and the door I need which will hold up in our very wet climate. Since I'm getting old I figured it would be best to do the job right as I don't want to expend the energy doing it over again, so I went with the practical approach rather than the beautiful one.

I am using 2X4 fir for the door frames. I ripped these in half and planed them to almost 3 /4" thick and marked them up for the mortises See Below

Table Wood Workbench Plank Wood stain


I tore out a piece where there was a knot on one of the frame pieces while planing them, and I had to do a patch. I used polyurethane glue for this as it is waterproof. See Below

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Gas


Tableware Wood Tool Table Rectangle


Next I set up my mortising attachment on my combination machine and went to work on the mortises (3 mortises to each of the 4 vertical frame pieces).

Wood Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Machine


Wood Tool Gas Machine tool Bumper


This was finished pretty quick and it came out real good. The mortising bit runs on the planer blade holder and it is held by a regular drill chuck, except the mortise bit runs in the opposite direction to a drill as it has to run in the same direction as the planer blades. The work sequence goes like this.

  • There are two levers on the work table. One lever moves the table back and forth and the other moves it in and out.

  • First you drill a series of overlapping holes along the mortise using a lever to move the clamping table back and forth against pre-set stops set to produce the length of the mortise.

  • After the holes are finished it's just to move the table back and forth to allow the spinning bit to clean up the mortises along the walls. There is also a stop to regulate the depth of the mortise. The drilling is done with a lever that moves the table in and out with relation to the drill bit. Here are the finished pieces. See Below

Wood Engineering Hardwood Workbench Flooring


After finishing the vertical frame pieces, I started thinking about the top, bottom and middle horizontal pieces and I realized that I had cut them too short, so I will have to cut them again, plane them and then cut the tenons on them tomorrow. If i weren't retired I would probably never get anything done!

So that's it for this episode. Thanks for following along!
 

Attachments

#101 ·
Door Frames - Mortising work

It's been awhile since my last installment on this project. I had to install a burnt out garage door opener and change the tires on my car. That was supposed to be finished Saturday after last, but I messed up my back working on the opener and I had to take a whole week off to recover.

Today's work
I started on the doors today. I have been agonizing myself trying to decide between what I would have liked, that is, a frame and panel door, and the door I need which will hold up in our very wet climate. Since I'm getting old I figured it would be best to do the job right as I don't want to expend the energy doing it over again, so I went with the practical approach rather than the beautiful one.

I am using 2X4 fir for the door frames. I ripped these in half and planed them to almost 3 /4" thick and marked them up for the mortises See Below

Table Wood Workbench Plank Wood stain


I tore out a piece where there was a knot on one of the frame pieces while planing them, and I had to do a patch. I used polyurethane glue for this as it is waterproof. See Below

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Flooring Gas


Tableware Wood Tool Table Rectangle


Next I set up my mortising attachment on my combination machine and went to work on the mortises (3 mortises to each of the 4 vertical frame pieces).

Wood Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Machine


Wood Tool Gas Machine tool Bumper


This was finished pretty quick and it came out real good. The mortising bit runs on the planer blade holder and it is held by a regular drill chuck, except the mortise bit runs in the opposite direction to a drill as it has to run in the same direction as the planer blades. The work sequence goes like this.

  • There are two levers on the work table. One lever moves the table back and forth and the other moves it in and out.

  • First you drill a series of overlapping holes along the mortise using a lever to move the clamping table back and forth against pre-set stops set to produce the length of the mortise.

  • After the holes are finished it's just to move the table back and forth to allow the spinning bit to clean up the mortises along the walls. There is also a stop to regulate the depth of the mortise. The drilling is done with a lever that moves the table in and out with relation to the drill bit. Here are the finished pieces. See Below

Wood Engineering Hardwood Workbench Flooring


After finishing the vertical frame pieces, I started thinking about the top, bottom and middle horizontal pieces and I realized that I had cut them too short, so I will have to cut them again, plane them and then cut the tenons on them tomorrow. If i weren't retired I would probably never get anything done!

So that's it for this episode. Thanks for following along!
that is one col machine mike, i wish ours worked like that…so sorry about your back , i know a bit about that…:)...i hope its all better, some nice hot showers will help, im sure you know that…., this is going to be a really great door set up…you wont have to mess with this again….great job on this…
 

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#117 ·
Door Frames - Tenoning work and glue-up

I thought I had made a measuring/cutting mistake on the horizontal door frame pieces, but it turned out to not be so. That saved me a lot of time and I was happy that I wasn't so sloppy after all.

Today's Work
I marked up one horizontal frame piece in preparation for cutting the tenons. Here I have set up my sliding table on the saw to cut the tenon shoulders. You can see that I have clamped a spacer to the fence to help make repeatable cuts on all 6 pieces. see below

Wood Hardwood Engineering Machine tool Machine


Here I am setting the blade height with my shop made tool. see Below

Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


And then taking a test cut to confirm the correct blade height. see below

Wood Flooring Rectangle Hardwood Gas


And here is the first shoulder cut and then on to the bandsaw to cut the cheeks and edges. see below

Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


Wood Floor Flooring Automotive exterior Composite material


After cutting the tenons I rounded the edges on them to match the rounded end of the mortises and then I did a dry fit. Everything went together well. I then measured the total width of the two doors and compared that with the opening on the shed and it was right on. That happens sometimes. Sorry, forgot to take a photo of the tenons.

Wood Engineering Gas Machine Hardwood


Finally I glued the door frames up with polyurethane glue (because it's waterproof). I am not too worried about the appearance of these frames except they have to be square and flat. They will be on the inside of the doors and vertical tongue and groove panelling will be fastened to the outside. Not pretty, buy it allows the rain to run off quite well and provides no resting places for water. see below

Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


That's it for today. Not a particularly interesting project, but blogging it gives me an excuse to socialize a little and it's nice to document the build so that when I get too old to do anything I will be able to look back on some of my little projects. That time probably isn't very far off!

Thanks for following with.
 

Attachments

#118 ·
Door Frames - Tenoning work and glue-up

I thought I had made a measuring/cutting mistake on the horizontal door frame pieces, but it turned out to not be so. That saved me a lot of time and I was happy that I wasn't so sloppy after all.

Today's Work
I marked up one horizontal frame piece in preparation for cutting the tenons. Here I have set up my sliding table on the saw to cut the tenon shoulders. You can see that I have clamped a spacer to the fence to help make repeatable cuts on all 6 pieces. see below

Wood Hardwood Engineering Machine tool Machine


Here I am setting the blade height with my shop made tool. see Below

Wood Table Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


And then taking a test cut to confirm the correct blade height. see below

Wood Flooring Rectangle Hardwood Gas


And here is the first shoulder cut and then on to the bandsaw to cut the cheeks and edges. see below

Table Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


Wood Floor Flooring Automotive exterior Composite material


After cutting the tenons I rounded the edges on them to match the rounded end of the mortises and then I did a dry fit. Everything went together well. I then measured the total width of the two doors and compared that with the opening on the shed and it was right on. That happens sometimes. Sorry, forgot to take a photo of the tenons.

Wood Engineering Gas Machine Hardwood


Finally I glued the door frames up with polyurethane glue (because it's waterproof). I am not too worried about the appearance of these frames except they have to be square and flat. They will be on the inside of the doors and vertical tongue and groove panelling will be fastened to the outside. Not pretty, buy it allows the rain to run off quite well and provides no resting places for water. see below

Wood Floor Wood stain Flooring Hardwood


That's it for today. Not a particularly interesting project, but blogging it gives me an excuse to socialize a little and it's nice to document the build so that when I get too old to do anything I will be able to look back on some of my little projects. That time probably isn't very far off!

Thanks for following with.
Looks good Mike. Glad te hear that it isn,t the wrong measure.

It took a second and than I saw you have a "left" table saw (5 in 1). Two years ago I have considered to by a same (different brand, same manufacturer) machine but final I bought a Sicar.
 

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#127 ·
Door Hinges

I didn't get much done today as this is our shopping day. I did manage to get the hinges installed on the door frames though.

Yesterday after taking the door frames out of the clamps after the glue-up I needed to increase the frame thickness on the back of the frame to allow long enough hinge screws and also to somewhat reinforce the hinge area. This was done with simple wooden blocks glued and screwed to the frame. see below

Wood Table Tool Floor Flooring


Today wiith the reinforcements dry I could take the doors out to the shed to see if they would fit, and what do know, they did!

Plant Building Flowerpot Wood Window


So on to the hinge installation. The first thing I did was to carefully mark out the locations with a pencil line from the actual hinges, then I used a knife cut just inside those lines to outline the area to be chiseled out. Here is the mortise after chiseling and the hinge screwed in place. See below

Wood Automotive exterior Hardwood Bumper Gas


Wood Sleeve Hardwood Wood stain Tints and shades


Most of you have probably installed more hinges than I will ever see, but here's a little trick for those who might have struggled with hinge installations. The most difficult part is usually getting the holes centered. If you don't, the hinge will not stay where it is supposed to or the screw will not seat properly into counter sink in the hinge blade. I use a countersink on my drill. You need one wide enough to self-center itself in the hinge blade hole. Just give it a spin and you have a nice little centered depression to guide your drill bit. see below

Wood Fruit Hardwood Bag Tool


Here are the doors with all four hinges installed. Now I just have to do the mortises on the shed, yet another opportunity to botch the job!

Wood Shelving Composite material Engineering Lumber


I'm looking forward to getting a lot done tomorrow if the weather permits, so I hope I will be almost finished with the shed by day's end and almost certainly finished by Saturday.

Thanks for following with!
 

Attachments

#128 ·
Door Hinges

I didn't get much done today as this is our shopping day. I did manage to get the hinges installed on the door frames though.

Yesterday after taking the door frames out of the clamps after the glue-up I needed to increase the frame thickness on the back of the frame to allow long enough hinge screws and also to somewhat reinforce the hinge area. This was done with simple wooden blocks glued and screwed to the frame. see below

Wood Table Tool Floor Flooring


Today wiith the reinforcements dry I could take the doors out to the shed to see if they would fit, and what do know, they did!

Plant Building Flowerpot Wood Window


So on to the hinge installation. The first thing I did was to carefully mark out the locations with a pencil line from the actual hinges, then I used a knife cut just inside those lines to outline the area to be chiseled out. Here is the mortise after chiseling and the hinge screwed in place. See below

Wood Automotive exterior Hardwood Bumper Gas


Wood Sleeve Hardwood Wood stain Tints and shades


Most of you have probably installed more hinges than I will ever see, but here's a little trick for those who might have struggled with hinge installations. The most difficult part is usually getting the holes centered. If you don't, the hinge will not stay where it is supposed to or the screw will not seat properly into counter sink in the hinge blade. I use a countersink on my drill. You need one wide enough to self-center itself in the hinge blade hole. Just give it a spin and you have a nice little centered depression to guide your drill bit. see below

Wood Fruit Hardwood Bag Tool


Here are the doors with all four hinges installed. Now I just have to do the mortises on the shed, yet another opportunity to botch the job!

Wood Shelving Composite material Engineering Lumber


I'm looking forward to getting a lot done tomorrow if the weather permits, so I hope I will be almost finished with the shed by day's end and almost certainly finished by Saturday.

Thanks for following with!
Mike,
Regarding the doors fitting, I'm like you - a bit surprised and thankful when things go according to plan.
PS - slow down a bit, I'm having trouble keeping up with your progress.
 

Attachments

#140 ·
Hanging the Doors

I didn't get as much done as I thought I would today. I'm not sure why, but I think it had something to do with the sun, which made an unexpected, but welcome appearance. see below

Plant Flower Leaf Botany Tree


Ok, back to woodworking. I was trying (not very hard) to get my doors hung up today. I made a couple of moldings for the front face of the shed sides to attach them to. Instead of nailing on the moldings first and then doing the mortises I decided it would be a lot easier to do them in the shop, on the bench so here I am doing that. Basically the same routine as last time, I located the mortises so the door bottoms would be a tiny bit higher to provide clearance. see below

Wood Engineering Hardwood Flooring Machine


So here are the two moldings with hinge mortises finished and temporarily attached to the doors. see below

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Shelving


The next task was to nail on the moldings so I could screw the doors on and see the result. I just used a couple of nails to attach each of the moldings and leaving the nail heads proud of the surface so I could easily remove them in case anything was wrong. Then I mounted the doors. They fit and worked perfect as you can see. The very small gap at the bottom between the doors is due to the terrace boards being slightly lower on the right side than the left. I will be leveling the shed as part of the finishing work and that will eliminate the gap. You can also see a gap at the top of the hinge moldings. I will be doing something decorative there. see below

Building Fixture Plant Wood Wood stain


Plant Wood Tree Wood stain Grass


After the relief that everything was working the way it should, the doors were dismounted, and the moldings were permanenty nailed on. The doors were returned to the shop so I could cut and install the panels. Here is the first door finished. The panel quality is awful, but it's all that is available here. It must be third grade stuff. I will probably have to do some plugs for those really bad knots. see below

Wood Workbench Gas Engineering Machine


I've been having so much fun with this little project that I almost hate to see it end. Thanks for following along and have a good weekend!
 

Attachments

#141 ·
Hanging the Doors

I didn't get as much done as I thought I would today. I'm not sure why, but I think it had something to do with the sun, which made an unexpected, but welcome appearance. see below

Plant Flower Leaf Botany Tree


Ok, back to woodworking. I was trying (not very hard) to get my doors hung up today. I made a couple of moldings for the front face of the shed sides to attach them to. Instead of nailing on the moldings first and then doing the mortises I decided it would be a lot easier to do them in the shop, on the bench so here I am doing that. Basically the same routine as last time, I located the mortises so the door bottoms would be a tiny bit higher to provide clearance. see below

Wood Engineering Hardwood Flooring Machine


So here are the two moldings with hinge mortises finished and temporarily attached to the doors. see below

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Shelving


The next task was to nail on the moldings so I could screw the doors on and see the result. I just used a couple of nails to attach each of the moldings and leaving the nail heads proud of the surface so I could easily remove them in case anything was wrong. Then I mounted the doors. They fit and worked perfect as you can see. The very small gap at the bottom between the doors is due to the terrace boards being slightly lower on the right side than the left. I will be leveling the shed as part of the finishing work and that will eliminate the gap. You can also see a gap at the top of the hinge moldings. I will be doing something decorative there. see below

Building Fixture Plant Wood Wood stain


Plant Wood Tree Wood stain Grass


After the relief that everything was working the way it should, the doors were dismounted, and the moldings were permanenty nailed on. The doors were returned to the shop so I could cut and install the panels. Here is the first door finished. The panel quality is awful, but it's all that is available here. It must be third grade stuff. I will probably have to do some plugs for those really bad knots. see below

Wood Workbench Gas Engineering Machine


I've been having so much fun with this little project that I almost hate to see it end. Thanks for following along and have a good weekend!
Those doors look good. I like the knots can you epoxy in the loose ones?
 

Attachments

#160 ·
Finishing Up

The carpentry work is finished and only the painting remains. I enjoyed this project and I hope it will be a convenience for us in the years to come. The space it occupies on our terrace is never used, so it was a good place to put it. The only downside is that though the shed initially fit nicely between our roof drain pipe and a window frame on the opposite side, I did not allow for the moldings which increased the width. That means we can't have the shed tight against the wall as I had planned, but since it is the only space we have for the shed, I'm not too worried about it as I think it looks ok anyway. Best of all, I no longer have to struggle with the grill cover!

Work done since the last episode

  • The doors were finish paneled.

  • I cut all the moldings from construction materials. They are all Fir.

  • The shed was leveled and some plastic feet installed.

  • The door latch was installed.

Here are some photo's of the completed project, (except for paint, the first coat to be put on tomorrow). see below

Plant Cabinetry Flower Flowerpot Building


Flower Plant Building Wood Grass


Flower Plant Building Window Door


In case you are wondering what those funny looking things on the roof are, they lead the water away from the edges like the ones on our house in the next photo. I'm not sure if you have those where you live, you probably have a better solution.

In the photo you can also see the double doors on my shop to the right. The doors on the shed will be painted the same green color and the rest of it white. All of the doors on the house and the garden shed are the same green.

Another of my outdoor projects is the sliding door between my shop and the house with the X's at the top. I built it about 11 years ago with mortise and tenon construction and it still works and remains in very good condition.

Plant Building Property Furniture Flower


Thank you for following with. I will post the shed as a project as soon as the painting is finished.
 

Attachments

#161 ·
Finishing Up

The carpentry work is finished and only the painting remains. I enjoyed this project and I hope it will be a convenience for us in the years to come. The space it occupies on our terrace is never used, so it was a good place to put it. The only downside is that though the shed initially fit nicely between our roof drain pipe and a window frame on the opposite side, I did not allow for the moldings which increased the width. That means we can't have the shed tight against the wall as I had planned, but since it is the only space we have for the shed, I'm not too worried about it as I think it looks ok anyway. Best of all, I no longer have to struggle with the grill cover!

Work done since the last episode

  • The doors were finish paneled.

  • I cut all the moldings from construction materials. They are all Fir.

  • The shed was leveled and some plastic feet installed.

  • The door latch was installed.

Here are some photo's of the completed project, (except for paint, the first coat to be put on tomorrow). see below

Plant Cabinetry Flower Flowerpot Building


Flower Plant Building Wood Grass


Flower Plant Building Window Door


In case you are wondering what those funny looking things on the roof are, they lead the water away from the edges like the ones on our house in the next photo. I'm not sure if you have those where you live, you probably have a better solution.

In the photo you can also see the double doors on my shop to the right. The doors on the shed will be painted the same green color and the rest of it white. All of the doors on the house and the garden shed are the same green.

Another of my outdoor projects is the sliding door between my shop and the house with the X's at the top. I built it about 11 years ago with mortise and tenon construction and it still works and remains in very good condition.

Plant Building Property Furniture Flower


Thank you for following with. I will post the shed as a project as soon as the painting is finished.
Oh yes!! Looks Grrrrrrr8 Mike.
 

Attachments

#170 ·
Finishing Up

The carpentry work is finished and only the painting remains. I enjoyed this project and I hope it will be a convenience for us in the years to come. The space it occupies on our terrace is never used, so it was a good place to put it. The only downside is that though the shed initially fit nicely between our roof drain pipe and a window frame on the opposite side, I did not allow for the moldings which increased the width. That means we can't have the shed tight against the wall as I had planned, but since it is the only space we have for the shed, I'm not too worried about it as I think it looks ok anyway. Best of all, I no longer have to struggle with the grill cover!

Work done since the last episode

  • The doors were finish paneled.

  • I cut all the moldings from construction materials. They are all Fir.

  • The shed was leveled and some plastic feet installed.

  • The door latch was installed.

Here are some photo's of the completed project, (except for paint, the first coat to be put on tomorrow). see below

Plant Cabinetry Flower Flowerpot Building


Flower Plant Building Wood Grass


Flower Plant Building Window Door


In case you are wondering what those funny looking things on the roof are, they lead the water away from the edges like the ones on our house in the next photo. I'm not sure if you have those where you live, you probably have a better solution.

In the photo you can also see the double doors on my shop to the right. The doors on the shed will be painted the same green color and the rest of it white. All of the doors on the house and the garden shed are the same green.

Another of my outdoor projects is the sliding door between my shop and the house with the X's at the top. I built it about 11 years ago with mortise and tenon construction and it still works and remains in very good condition.

Plant Building Property Furniture Flower


Thank you for following with. I will post the shed as a project as soon as the painting is finished.
Mike, nicely done though I am a bit saddened that the blog series has come to an end. Guess I'll have to get back to the shop now.

PS, the picture of your thumb in pic #1 is horribly out of focus, just say'in.
 

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