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84K views 110 replies 40 participants last post by  lance 
#1 ·
Starting the new deck.

Well I was working on building the deck and I kept saying. Take some pictures. But, it didn't get done. These pictures are from before putting on the deck surface.

The deck is placed just outside a small deck that goes between the screened porch and the Solarium. We have a spa in the Solarium room.



The deck is basically 16' X 16'. It's 14 feet to the beginning of the curved edge. One end is tapered to match the sidewalk that goes around the house.

I'm using deck blocks that are just placed on the ground. No digging involved, except in my case I had to dig to make the blocks level. What you could do is stick a 4X4 in the top of the bolck and cut the 4X4's level. In that case no digging.

I got a day laborer to help place the blocks. The 65 yr old knees do do well getting up and down and leaning on knees all day. We set all of the blocks on the first day.

The blocks are placed in rows 24" apart. I'm using 2X6's as my deck surface. If you use 5/4 wood then you need the block rows 16" apart. The cost is greater using 5/4 lumber. You use more blocks and the deck boards are $3.00 more expensive. The blocks are not suppose to have more than 5' between them in a row.

I used 2X6 as my frame and for all of the edge boards. The curved boards are 5/4 that I was able to bend with the help of some pipe clamps. All of the edge boards are screwed with 3" screws into the ends of the joists. The curve section had 2X6 stub joists screwed onto the last joist.



I then used some plastic conduit to mark the curve. Put screws on each side of the conduit at the end and one in the middle. I shaped the curve to what looked good and marked it on the joist sections. I then cut them off to the marked line.

The deck surface will be at ground level on the outer right corner.



It sits on the existing deck, at the house side.



It is actually a little off the cement on the solarium side.



The job is being overseen by my "Construction Supervisor"

The plywood is being used to lay on as I did the electric work.



When we bought the house there was a tree in this spot and a light went up the tree. Last year i noticed that the tree was leaning. This year a took the electric off the tree and I just pushed it over. Cut up all the wood. Now a deck is sprouting in its place. The electric is now being rerouted to the edge so that if I need to get to it, It will require removing a couple of deck boards.

The plans are to use a rope light across the edge of the deck where it meets the old deck and the sidewalk side. We are creatures of habit. I didn't want us to fall and not remember that the deck is now there when it used to be grass.



My helper Dan, my son, is helping to screw down deck boards.

You will notice that we are using pipe clamps to pull all of the deck boards tight together.

I wonder how do i get 17' pipe clamps. The wood is quite wet so I assume that the cracks between the boards will appear as they dry.



The supervisor back again. He never leaves for long.
 
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#3 ·
Karson,

Did you totally pull the boards tight together? Or did you leave a little gap? You should leave some gap for drainage. Many guys in the field use some 16 penny nails, or a couple of speed squares. I have a set of gap gauges specifically for decking that are a bit hard to come by.

Some 1/8 inch thick material attached to wider blocks of wood works well. The blocks are wide and stay on top of the deck without falling through the crack. The 1/8 material projects in between the boards and you have to leave a little bit off the tension so that you can remove them.

Yes, the boards do dry and shrink a bit but it may not be enough really.
 
#4 ·
Another good reason for the gap:

As you get closer to the sides, you may find things are not playing out even. You can slightly fudge the gap over several pieces so that it does not show and your final board will have an even overhang or meet the house evenly.
This is a very good reason for a little gap.

A 16 penny nail in a block of wood works good too. The block keeps them from falling through the crack all the time.
 
#5 ·
Todd:

On the five rows that I've placed they are pulled tight together.

I'll use a screw as a gap and unscrew it out, when the deck boards are screwed down.
 
#6 ·
Hi Karson,

This is a major project. I really like the curved front section of the deck. It adds a nice element to the overall design. I am glad to see you using screws as well. They hold much better than nails.

Keep us posted on the progress you are making.
 
#7 ·
The screw could work.

I did get a bit hung up on the gap thought and neglected to comment on how impressed I was with the curved design. Most contractors I know won't even deal with such a feature.

Nice design.

Good luck!
 
#8 ·
Judging by the pictures you sent it looks like you are well underway with your project. I have to make a couple of observations here however. Looks like you are using treated lumber and mind you I am not a carpenter in any stretch of the imagination. I remember when I had a deck built for us because it was just too much for one guy to build, especially me. It was also two stories high. When they started to nail the floor boards down I questioned the procedure because they did not leave any gaps. They told me that there would be a gap between 1/3rd and 1/2 inch after the lumber dried out and I was skeptical but they were right of course. I noticed the electrical wiring there too. From what I could see of it, it looks okay but I hope you used the correct outdoor wiring cable. Also, those standard jem boxes are supposedly only good for one two wire cable w/ground to enter the box with one device like a switch or receptacle. So you are not legally allowed to go in and out of them with two cables to continue the circuit. Deeper boxes would be okay but local codes must be used. You need so much air circulation around each wire to allow for cooling as per the National Electrical Code. Current flowing through any conductor produces heat. More than likely you are doing it correctly my friend and I'm only judging things from the pictures. I have no idea if you are getting this inspected or not but please make sure you have a GFCI breaker protecting the circuit from the inside panel someplace. I love the way you were able to bend that lumber around the outside edge. I guess that took a little doing. Please post the pictures of the finished project. I think it looks spectacular. Great job, Karson.
 
#10 ·
Plenty of hard yakka there Karson. I see you are well supervised. Are those concrete supports very deep?, do you pour them in a mould or buy them at the local hardware. That has the potential to be a great deck. I agree with you & the Jocks to put them in tight as there will be shrinkage. A lot of the decking timber down under comes grooved on one side, the groove goes underneath to allow for drainage. Is that what you do over there?.
 
#11 ·
Wow, your lucky..you can use pier blocks. I had to dig 12" Dia. concrete piers 42" deep for my deck. 7 of them! Looks great so far. I decked mine with composite, and I used Tiger Claw hidden fastners. No screw holes and they gap the boards flawlessly!
 
#12 ·
Thanks Richard for the comments on the electrical. Yes I'm going to do GFI's. I just checked and the circuit braker on this line is not a GFI circuit breaker and it was currently feeding outlets and lights in an outdoor environment. I'll correct that.

The wires going into the box contain two different circuits. One will feel a rope light and will be controlled by a dusk to dawn circuit. The other one will be for 110 circuit if I need. Waterproof covers are being used for a cord that will be inserted permanently. The Dusk to dawn circuit will also be used on other lights.

Thanks for giving me a heads up. I appreciate it.

I'll put another connector box in the feed the Dusk to dawn sensor and then feet the current to the appropiate places.

All of them being fed with the one circuit. And yes I'm using outdoor wiring even though it is not exposed to direct sunlight nor is it direct buried.

Thanks for keeping me honest.
 
#13 ·
Grumpy:

The blocks set on top of the soil. These have all been placed on tamped soil. They weigh 48 lbs apiece and are allowed per building codes. The deck is just sitting on the ground. Nothing is buried into the soil. No building permit required. It's like building a storage shed that sits on top of the ground.
 
#16 ·
Todd:

I checked the Mfg of the wood product brochure and they state to put the boards side-by-side and they will shrink enough to give you a gap. They stated as much as 3/4" on a 6" board.
 
#17 ·
Ze'ev You are on. let me know when you plan on being in the area of Washington and we'll make it a party.

I'll smoke some brisket and we can put out feet up.

Or has your daughter already moved to New York.
 
#18 ·
Holy cow, that is some major shrinkage!

I have not used green treated lumber for decking for several years. The brown treated is used in Montana where I am at because it is such a dry climate. It is very southwestern style weather here. Some people use framing lumber and it lasts for years, but I don't recommend that.

I mostly push for and install composite decking. It's a bit expensive up front but nobody has complained once it was installed.

Man, I could make a trip for some good smoked brisket!
 
#22 ·
Day 3 of the deck build

Well yesterday was a rain-out day, so today was a double-header. Well not really true. But the deck boards were going down well.



You can see my 20 ft pipe clamp that I'm using to compress all of the deck boards and take out the woofs, and the bows that always seem to show up after your get the perfect boards home. So much for hand picking.

Everything was going well until I got close to the edge.



Of course I was planning to stop here until I did the electric for the lights. BUT, I put a tape measure on the space and I found out that the space was different than I had calculated.

I measured the board and they are 5 1/2". I mean they are always 5 1/2" Because I bought a 2 X 6. BUT, after you get 24 boards screwed down and you find that the measurements are not panning out, you check one more time. "Let's see measure twice and Screw once" These puppies are 5 5/8", they probably are going to shrink to the 5 1/2" size. Meanwhile my deck surface is 3" wider than I estimated for the number of boards that are installed. So what is going to happen is I'll have a half board on each side.

Not a big problem, but not as designed.

I also went to the big box store to purchase a 20 Amp ground fault circuit breaker. $54.00 lighter in my pocket I brought it home.

I took the circuit panel apart, Took my "Gold Plated" GFI circuit breaker, put it in and it popped. Wait a minute, that's not suppose to happen. I put the old circuit breaker back in and it worked fine.

(Scratching head, Ponder, Ponder) I know, take the wires apart and see where the trouble is.

Problem, The box where the wires came out of the ground are under 3 deck boards, OK the drill has a reverse. Take up the boards. Lay on my belly on my "New Deck" open the box, untwist all of the wires.

Turn on the circuit breaker, OK the buried wire to the box is OK. The new wire I put in is under the deck is OK. The problem is the wire that is buried to the duck pond.

Pause!!! Wife just stopped by with chocolate covered apples slices and strawberries. You will have to wait while I eat. She must be liking her new deck. She's not worried about the problems.



They were good. Excellent.



I regress. I also mentioned the duck pond.



4 babies that we got at Easter time. We usually raise them to let the foxes, raccoons and hawks take them. That's not the plan, but that's what seems to happen. The two that we had last summer gave us some great eggs, until something had a hankering for duck. We usually let them run around the yard when they get big. We do put them back in the cage at night. Daisy Duck, a jet black one last year thought I was her mate, when I walked close to her she'd squat down on the ground. I'd pick her up and when I put her down she'd look at me and I guess she was thinking, "Is this what sex is suppose to be like!"

Back to the deck.

I took all of the wires apart at the duck pond. The ones buried to the shed caused a problem. Wait the ones to the yard light caused a problem. Today is not my day to fix all electric problems. So untwist all of the wires so I can close up the box under the deck and I'll worry about the ones at the tree and shed later. These lights all worked great until I put in a ground fault Circuit breaker. So there has got to be some bleed through some where.

Circuit breaker stays on, Put back down the deck boards that were removed. Pack up all the tools. Put the batteries on the charger.

Tomorrow is toy making day. Nothing to be done on the deck.
 
#33 ·
Day 4 of the build

Well day 4 was productive, just not on the deck.

About 1 week ago I was in the office in the shop and I heard a loud hissing. I went to find out what it was. The safety unload valve was dumping air from the air compressor tank. The compressor was running and it was not shutting off.

The safety valve was doing what it was suppose to do. Keep air compressor parts from flying all over the shop. Some how, some way the contacts welded shut on the shutoff switch. I moved the lever down to shut off the compressor and it didn't shut off. I had to pull the plug.

I opened the drain plug and emptied the tank of air. I then unscrewed the air switch after unhooking all of the electric lines and the header-unloader air lines. It was tough to unscrew. It was installed before the motor was placed on the compressor. I finally got it off and looked to see what was the problem. Once I pried the switch contacts apart the switch worked fine (manually).

Today I took some fine Emory cloth and sanded the contacts. *I used a 6" extension pipe to get the switch up where I could reinstall it. I then found that the air line from the compressor to the tank was hitting the switch where I had placed it.

So off to Lowes to buy some 1/2" flexible copper pipe and some fittings to replace the main air pipe and a new line for the header-unloader valve. (Since I moved the switch the pipe was now longer that before, and in a different place. It took 3 trips to Lowes to get all of the correct replacement parts and then to get it installed.

The compressor was turned back on and pumps up fine. It was now 2 PM and the heat of the day was shinning on the deck. I opted to wait. I moved the wood into the workshop for the lamp posts and was ready to start that when I saw my dust collector. I planned to call Grizzly about it. I wanted to replace the top bag with a pleated cartridge with paddles.

So I called Grizzly, it turns out that the pleated cartridge is a direct fit on my dust collector. So $200.00 later it's on back order until mid June. I guess this will be a Fathers Day Present.

My son Dan and I then went out and installed the missing planks on one side. I also did a rough cut on the curve so that I can make a jig that will follow the curve and put a pencil mark on the top for a cut line to really to be cut later.

So here it sits as of now.



I placed the next to last board in place to see how much space I have left. The left and right seem to be about equal.





So if I hadn't messed up on my first measurement of the 2X6 's being 1/8" wide on each one, being 5 5/8 instead of 5 1/2, Over the 33 deck boards that is 3" in width that I hadn't counted into my measurement. I would have had the correct amount of space on each side and been almost a full board on each side.

"Measure Twice and Screw once".

No chocolate strawberries tonight, no coffee. I guess I need to make my own.
 
#42 ·
Continuing Day 5 and 6 of the deck build

Well Day 5 of the deck build had me starting on the Light poles. I made a wooden tube that was about 5 3/4" on each side.



Three sides are glued together and the forth side will be attached with stainless trim screws, which have a smaller head. They have square drive.

The posts are 8' long and are 83" above the deck to the top of the wooden post. In the uphill side the post is about 12" in the ground. One the downhill side the post is on top of the ground, but a solid post is inside the hollow one and is sunk into the ground to give it a little more support.

The problem that I ran into was a short sighted item on my part. I made the post and I attached it to the deck. When I went to put the light fixture on top of the post, I realized that I failed to put the 45 deg cut on each corner. So it was a chisel and a tap of the hand palm to cut off the corners. It was about 2 hours of work to do that job.

My youngest son was in a play at school so the day ended early. Post attached but the fixture was not yet in place. So it was back to finishing it today.

Day 6. So here is the fixture and the lamp globe.



I guess a little story is due at this time to tell about the fixtures.

When I lived in St. Louis I met a gentleman that had about 50 of these fixtures. They were take downs from the streets of St. Louis. He wanted about $10.00 for each of them. I bought 2. The city was replacing the fixtures that were installed in 1923 with some of the new Hi Pressure Sodium lights. Some how I never installed them at my home in St. Louis. So they sat in the boxes in the basement. I them moved to New Jersey. Lived there for 25 years. For some reason I never installed them at my home in Ringoes. I then moved to Delaware. My wife wanted a new deck and she was looking at metal light poles. I'm a LumberJock, I don't like metal poles. Then I remembered the St Louis light fixtures, sitting in the boxes in our garage. I suggest to my wife about using those lights. She was enthusiast about it. Of course it was my job to get them installed.

So when i started on the second pole. I remembered to do the beveling while on the ground. So I took the pole to the workshop and did the beveling while being held in the vise.



And then testing the fixture while still in the vise.



It seems to me that these fixtures are cast bronze.

I had some bulb fixtures that fit in the holders. They seem to have disappeared. But not a problem because they were made for the big base bulb, and I planned to use compact florescent bulbs.

So I made a metal bracket from a hurricane strap from the building supply.



I then screwed a socket on top of my homemade bracket.



The bracket was screwed to the holder.



So here is the first post with the lamp shade all washed and the fixture all washed, The light is really on but it doesn't show.



So I hurried to get the second post installed and all hooked up. My wife is sitting on her deck looking at her lights. We sat at the table and ate dinner tonight.



And from the yard, looking back at the deck.



So my wife got busy and cleaned all of the tools off. Plus they are forecasting rain tonight.
The supervisor checking out the crack that are forming between the boards.



The deck with the curved edge visable. The edge has not yet been trimmed to final curve.



On to day seven.
 
#43 ·
Outstanding series, and a great looking deck, Karson. More stuff I can't show the wife. She wants to tear our old deck off, and replace it with a low platform. Guess I'd better think of the bright side… lots of weathered Western Red Cedar, if we don't demolish with a Bobcat.
 
#61 ·
Treated wood.

Someone asked the question if I was going to treat the wood that I used on the posts.

That was something that I forgot, and i was planning to write about when I made the posts and enches.

When I was at the big orange home supply center I saw some new treated wood. It's by Thompson's, its called Thompsonized wood

he wood was not the normal green treated wood. It's more of a natural color wood treatment.

This post is treated wood.



The price is about the same as the green treated wood. In fact when i went into the store to buy it I found that the green pressure treated wood was in the same compartment as the thompsonized wood.

According to the advertisement. Their Southern Pine treated wood is available at Home Depot east of the Rockies, the redwood treated wood is available west of the rockies, and the Jackpine treated wood is available in Canada.

I also found on the web this site. Sounds great. They say its the future of treated wood. Timbersil
 
#70 ·
Finishing up the surface of the deck

Well I finally got the electric problems taken care of and so i screwed down the last two deck boards. These boards butt up against the two light poles. And I did the finish cutting of the curve.

So here are the details:

I mentioned earlier, I believe in the first blog of this series that I installed a GFCI circuit breaker in the fuse panel and i was having problems where it kept tripping whenever i put a load on the circuit. Even a load as small as a Dusk to Dawn switch with nothing else.

LumberJock Richard Williams stated that he wished that he was closer so that he could find my problem. Without me paying his plane fare from Las Vegas I did the next best think. I asked him for his phone number so I could call. He replied. I called.

I told him all of the things that I had tried and that had failed. He suggested a couple of things to try. Verfy that the bare ground wire was not touching the white wire anywhere in the circuit. (I didn't think I had that problem) Replace the buss bar that was in the circuit sub panel. (Mine was very rusty). This discussion was going on in a 3" rain storm, so I was not too interested is stepping outside at that moment.

The next day I was returning home from taking my son to school, and I was running the circuit through my mine. One of the things that Richard has said was that a GFCI breaker is measuring the amount of current that was going through the black (hot) wire and then checking that the reverse of that was going through the neutral wire (white) of the other wave of the alternating current. (These are my words and not necessarly his exact words). I was wondering in my mind about how that was working on the circuit that I had installed.

I then realized that I might have hooked it up incorrectly. (I had never read the instructions, Because I assumed that it was hooked up the same as a regular circuit breaker.) I had hooked up the black wire to the GFCI breaker. I was suppose to also hook up the white wire to another terminal on the GFCI breaker. I had failed to do that. So what was happening was that any load that I put on the black wire was not being offset through the white wire, because I had not attached it to the GFCI breaker.

When I removed the white wire from the buss bar and attached it to the correct terminal on the GFCI breaker, my circuit worked as designed. The Dusk to Dawn switch does not trip it, a light bulb does not trip. (I have not put my finger across the terminal to see if it does trip it. Like a SawStop you hope it works)

Once I got all of the electric wiring problems I screwed down the final two deck boards

I cut the angle off the deck to match the sidewalk around the Solarium.



I measured the curve for the end of the deck. I found that it was a 22' radius. So I had my wife hold the tape measure and I inscribed the curve with a pencil. I then used my Bosch Jigsaw to cut the curve to the line that I had drawn.



We set up a table and chairs and had supper tonight on the deck. It was chilly but we didn't care.



The supervisor checking to see if we left any scraps on the deck. (As if anything would get as far as the deck surface when he's hanging around)



So now on to the benches.
 
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