Size and Materials Planning
So after making a large workshop upper cabinet, and then a glass door cabinet, I decided to start making more cabinets to store garden tools in the garage. While I'm at it, I decided to make two, one for long handled tools, and another with shelves for smaller stuff. I made the previous cabinets with maple, and it seems like a waste of money to make a garden tool cabinet out of relatively expensive wood, but hey, if I'm going to all the trouble, it might as well look good. I also figure that if I have to move again, which is always a posibility, I'll have matching cabinets for a new ultimate shop.
I had thought about laying out all the tools and designing a custom hanger arrangement, but realized I'll never have enough storage space, no matter how careful I plan it out, so I'll just build one and then another when the need arises. 72" x 42" x 12 seems about right. I'll use two doors and a center stile. The largest depth tool is a tiller attachment for weed trimmer, so using 12" depth, same as the other cabinets, seems sufficient. Rather than like a base cabinet, I'm going to make it like an upper cabinet, screwed to the wall to keep if off the garage floor - maybe 3 1/2 inches up like a floating cabinet?
I had been roughing out bowls on the lathe, made a few (practice) drawers with a hardly used dovetail jig, replaced the plastic router table plate with a more sturdy aluminum plate, and basically tended the garden all summer, so after 6 months, it's time for a new project.
Here's the rails and stiles cut and routed with the grooves and pocket holes. I suggest to do the pocket holes first, then the grooves, to remind you not to route into the pocket holes. I mark on the router fence where to start and stop.
(How do you rotate an image?)
Assembling face frames. The paper under the joint while assembling is a bad idea. It gets pinched into the joint when clamped. It was there to keep glue off the good plywood underneath. If I had room, I'd have a dedicated assembly table.
The board with the blue tape on the end is a spacer to locate the center stile.
Ripping sides and lower shelf.
Test cutting the groove for the sides. I made a feather board to feed from either way. I completely stole the idea from Sommerfeld tools. Feeding the board in the wrong direction makes a cleaner cut in the plywood.
Next step is assembling everything.
So after making a large workshop upper cabinet, and then a glass door cabinet, I decided to start making more cabinets to store garden tools in the garage. While I'm at it, I decided to make two, one for long handled tools, and another with shelves for smaller stuff. I made the previous cabinets with maple, and it seems like a waste of money to make a garden tool cabinet out of relatively expensive wood, but hey, if I'm going to all the trouble, it might as well look good. I also figure that if I have to move again, which is always a posibility, I'll have matching cabinets for a new ultimate shop.
I had thought about laying out all the tools and designing a custom hanger arrangement, but realized I'll never have enough storage space, no matter how careful I plan it out, so I'll just build one and then another when the need arises. 72" x 42" x 12 seems about right. I'll use two doors and a center stile. The largest depth tool is a tiller attachment for weed trimmer, so using 12" depth, same as the other cabinets, seems sufficient. Rather than like a base cabinet, I'm going to make it like an upper cabinet, screwed to the wall to keep if off the garage floor - maybe 3 1/2 inches up like a floating cabinet?
I had been roughing out bowls on the lathe, made a few (practice) drawers with a hardly used dovetail jig, replaced the plastic router table plate with a more sturdy aluminum plate, and basically tended the garden all summer, so after 6 months, it's time for a new project.
Here's the rails and stiles cut and routed with the grooves and pocket holes. I suggest to do the pocket holes first, then the grooves, to remind you not to route into the pocket holes. I mark on the router fence where to start and stop.
(How do you rotate an image?)
Assembling face frames. The paper under the joint while assembling is a bad idea. It gets pinched into the joint when clamped. It was there to keep glue off the good plywood underneath. If I had room, I'd have a dedicated assembly table.
The board with the blue tape on the end is a spacer to locate the center stile.
Ripping sides and lower shelf.
Test cutting the groove for the sides. I made a feather board to feed from either way. I completely stole the idea from Sommerfeld tools. Feeding the board in the wrong direction makes a cleaner cut in the plywood.
Next step is assembling everything.