Project Information
I try to maintain a professional attitude but have to admit to the occasion giggle with this in my workroom.
This started as a way to use a bench top, temporarily. I had a large piece of 8/4 Beech that I had milled up by hand, that was going to be used to make a medieval period workbench. I decided that I wanted to use that slab in my workroom so I would'nt have to go out to the garage to use my main workbench. The idea was supposed to be as simple as possible and would allow me to use this bench top on another piece. I designed a small bench, based on the framing I use for all of my other worktables(which I saw on Finewoodworking.com). The ideas just grew from there…
Contrary to my usual engineering method, this design became more and more complex. From a simple flat top, to a large face for hold fasts, to a large simple vise with runners held with bar clamps, to a complete bench with a two-screw vise(thanks to Roy and Chris on the Woodwright's Shop), including raised framing to act as planing stop. Oddly enough, each of the simpler versions still remained a viable option, giving me lots of ways to use this thing.
The top and vise are 8/4 Beech and the face is 8/4 Maple. Those pieces are very easy to remove(1st pic below) and make the bench very portable. The framing is out of Douglas Fir 2×4s planed down in both directions to sharpen up and square the faces and reduce weight. The whole thing is held together with 2-1/2" Deckmate Screws. I'll add glue to the legs when I'm sure the design works.
46-5/8" long, 12-1/8" wide(20-3/4" at base), Top is at 34" above the floor and the legs are canted out at 15 degrees(from Roy Underhills French workbench). I used 1-1/2" dowel stock for the vise screws and 1-1/4" dowel stock for the vise runners. I made a total of 5 screws to get 2 that worked(Hint: cut off the first inch or two of the dowel before cutting the threads, its likely to be too dry). Also spent a little time just to fit the vise so it would move with relative ease. i used scrap poplar for the screw handles. I damaged one of the handles and left it that way to remind myself of how not to use the sliding compound miter saw.
CHANGES: I've added several holes, 3/4" each for bench dogs(made from 3/4" maple dowels), and for my holdfasts. The last few pics show them being used. A small triangle of wood helps hold small parts and larger parts with canted ends. Still need to add leather to the interior face of the vise.
This started as a way to use a bench top, temporarily. I had a large piece of 8/4 Beech that I had milled up by hand, that was going to be used to make a medieval period workbench. I decided that I wanted to use that slab in my workroom so I would'nt have to go out to the garage to use my main workbench. The idea was supposed to be as simple as possible and would allow me to use this bench top on another piece. I designed a small bench, based on the framing I use for all of my other worktables(which I saw on Finewoodworking.com). The ideas just grew from there…
Contrary to my usual engineering method, this design became more and more complex. From a simple flat top, to a large face for hold fasts, to a large simple vise with runners held with bar clamps, to a complete bench with a two-screw vise(thanks to Roy and Chris on the Woodwright's Shop), including raised framing to act as planing stop. Oddly enough, each of the simpler versions still remained a viable option, giving me lots of ways to use this thing.
The top and vise are 8/4 Beech and the face is 8/4 Maple. Those pieces are very easy to remove(1st pic below) and make the bench very portable. The framing is out of Douglas Fir 2×4s planed down in both directions to sharpen up and square the faces and reduce weight. The whole thing is held together with 2-1/2" Deckmate Screws. I'll add glue to the legs when I'm sure the design works.
46-5/8" long, 12-1/8" wide(20-3/4" at base), Top is at 34" above the floor and the legs are canted out at 15 degrees(from Roy Underhills French workbench). I used 1-1/2" dowel stock for the vise screws and 1-1/4" dowel stock for the vise runners. I made a total of 5 screws to get 2 that worked(Hint: cut off the first inch or two of the dowel before cutting the threads, its likely to be too dry). Also spent a little time just to fit the vise so it would move with relative ease. i used scrap poplar for the screw handles. I damaged one of the handles and left it that way to remind myself of how not to use the sliding compound miter saw.
CHANGES: I've added several holes, 3/4" each for bench dogs(made from 3/4" maple dowels), and for my holdfasts. The last few pics show them being used. A small triangle of wood helps hold small parts and larger parts with canted ends. Still need to add leather to the interior face of the vise.