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Well, I just found LumberJocks, so I thought I should start adding stuff. Here is a nightstand I completed. I'm doing an independent study on furniture in college and wanted to play with cantilevering the top. This was my first go at handcut dovetails, so I'm pleased with how well they came out.

The case has a hidden spline, and then screws that I've snugplugged shut. In the future, I would probably biscuit join everything and do a miter joint to hide all the end grain. Unfortunately, I didn't have a biscuit joiner at the making of this.

Casework and legs are common walnut, drawer sides of maple, drawer bottom 1/4" birch ply. I think next time I will do a solid wood bottom and bevel the edges to fit. Everything is finished with Tried and True Original finish. I like to powerbuff it after it soaks for an hour and do 3 coats waiting 24 hours inbetween.
Does anyone have any critiques of the design, construction, etc?

Thanks!

Gallery

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Welcome to LJ"s A great bunch of woodworkers from all over the world. I like the design….reminds me of the 60's and 70's
 

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Great job, a real beauty! Welcome to Lj's
 

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Very interesting design, nice build on this nightstand.
 

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Yes, very cute.
The framed butt joint look is good with the grain matching and the darkness of that end grain looks better than mitering IMO. The legs seem a little thin, a little plain though.
And even though it may be stable, visually there is apprehension about it. Perhaps the front leg could be a bit farther forward.
 

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Thanks for the critique vipond.
I agree that the legs are thin - and plain. I was dealing with the walnut stock I had on hand. The 4/4 I had went through a planer with a really bad set of planer knives first so by the time I had it smooth it was closer to 5/8 than 4/4.
By shifted forward do you mean a linear displacement of the leg, or a more steep angle?
 

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I'm thinking he means there's too much overhang from the front of the box down to where the front legs touch the floor.

I also thought the same, it looks like it will tip forward if you put a heavy book on the front edge of the top.

Nice table. I like the concept

And Welcome to LumberJocks.
 

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I like the uniqueness of the legs and the finger pull
of the drawer. Clean work.

Welcome to LJ's ChristianViggo!
 

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This is certainly an interesting design and will definitely be an eye catcher. How did you join the front legs to the cabinet?

helluvawreck aka Charles
http://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com
 

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As for how it looks like it will tip, I guess that's something I was intentionally playing with. Both legs come in just around 1" from their respective front or back edge, so it's plenty stable. I can certainly understand why some people wouldn't like it. I supposed I could have chosen to be a bit more subtle, but I was trying to make it provocative.

The legs are joined to the cabinet just by glue. I figured a long-grain joint should be plenty strong for normal use. The legs look spindly already and it will be in my bedroom, so hopefully no one will decide to sit on it. I would have liked to have done a sliding dovetail for them, but I didn't have the resources (or time) to do so.
 

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totally unique
 

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That's kind of neat. Good workmanship too.

I agree that the front legs are a bit thin. I would like a bit more beef. The angle is ok with me, if the thing is stable. It kind of reminds me of a dancer with pointed toe jutting it out.

Welcome to LJs,
Steve
 

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I like it! The cantilevered design gives the illusion of instability which is the whole point. Legs could be thicker for overall balance but I think you did a great job. And the wooden drawer slides are quite authentic.
 

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The legs make it a unique piece, you made it stable even though it doesn't look it and that is ok. I think that if the legs joined at the top of the cabinet at a point that they would flow better that stopping at the middle of the cabinet. That is my suggestion
 

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There seems to be a consensus that the legs should be thicker and I would agree with that. Does anyone have a recommendation for what thickness? The casework is 3/4 and the legs as they are stand about 5/8.
 

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Christian. I meant a linear progression. The difference is quite subtle here. If the tip of the forward leg was just a hair back of the front edge then you would still have your frisson but with the considered rationalization that everything is ok. i.e. No face plants are going to happen unless you do something really stupid.
I agree with alholstein that a continued projection (and or joining) of the legs to the top or beyond would be a design improvement.
As it stands (!), still very nice.
gene

Oh yes, thanks for the very fine photography.
 

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Al Holstein has me thinking (since we're redesigning this) that having the top overhang the sides by the width of the legs, and extending the legs to the underside of the top….....Might be a little 'cleaner' design. Damn, now I want to go build one!
 

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Thanks for the design tips, everyone. This community seems to be more willing to give honest feedback than my peers at school - something I really appreciate. I might build another one with a slightly updated design and see if I can't sell it.
I considered running the legs all the way to the tabletop. I mocked it up and preferred the halfway point. I also played with running the legs into each other and wasn't enamored. Part of the problem with joining the legs together is that it requires an even steeper angle which I wasn't willing to do for both structural and design reasons. I felt the angle was plenty steep already.
Again, thank you to everyone for the helpful feedback.
 

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I love the apprehension and think you accomplished that well, don't do anything to lose that.

I do agree that the legs could be a bit thicker, but I think the real problem is where and how the legs attach to the case, I would love to see what you come up with. I hope you will keep experimenting.
 
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