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345K views 249 replies 74 participants last post by  Vuddha29 
#1 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
 

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#2 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Thanks for your generosity in sharing trade secrets. I can see where these are being lost and there are fewer and fewer new craftsman to pass them on to. Like I said in a comment: You, Sir, are a one man learning center, and a fountain of knowledge. Look forward to your posts and I plan to save each one in my favorites.
 

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#3 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Thanks for that, so obvious, why didn't I think of making one of these!! It will be the first thing I make in the morning, and I think I will probably use it every day.
Pete.
 

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#4 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
great helper

here is what i came up with similar
but different too
mine is in 1/8" graduations
but can be made for special needs too

Wood Art Rectangle Hardwood Brick


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Font Plywood


thanks for this post
i will keep my eyes open for the next
 

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#5 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
cool jig
 

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#6 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
thanks for sharing the secrets :)

Dennis
 

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#7 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Very nice patron!
 

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#8 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Now both of those arevery good ideas for common task in the shop.
 

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#9 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Thanks Erik
 

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#10 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Great ideas…that's why I love this place! Thanks!
 

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#11 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
How simply marvelous. As said already… Why didnt I think of that! Thanks for the tip!
 

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#12 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
thanks ,learn something every day
 

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#13 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Just found your blog here - As a new woodworker very excited to learn the hobby and try to teach my kids a little too, I am thankful for your willingness to share. As a kid, I spent a little (far too little) time with my dad when he built things - I was amazed at how many ingenious solutions he had to accomplish various tasks. I hate to admit it, I did not retain them. I totally agree, much of this type of knowledge is being lost.

I have marked you as a "Buddy" so as to see all of your posts.

Thanks again!

Basshunter
 

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#14 ·
Shop Tips

In the past, most old guys like me jealously protected their shortcuts and tricks to guard their job from competitors. I've seen many old fellows actually turn and place their bodies in front of their work to keep someone else from seeing how they did something, and they were not too bashful about doing so either. But, a lot of the old knowledge is disappearing now and some hard-learned things may disappear forever. I've learned a few tricks in my six decades of work related experience, and wish to pass a few tips along here, as I have time.

Tricks and shortcuts develop over time, depending on the trade. Some are to save time, make things easier, or more accurate. Some are time-tested and in general use, and others are peculiar to a particular shop or craft. I plan to present some I have used - and still do - hoping others may profit from them. Some you may already know, depending on your level of experience, and others may be new to you. In the end, my hope is overall, these little tips add to your knowledge and experience.

First, this one, which I call 'Poor Man's Scribe', is simple and obvious. In many shops you use the same few settings to scribe lines in from the edge of your stock - say for a line of screws or nails, or to sand, tape, saw or chisel too. Of course most wood shop people will have a scribing tool with infinite settings which can be used. But, it is much handier to have a simple little jig, or 'multi-tool' for this purpose, which can often fit 75% or more of your scribe spacing needs. And, depending on how big you make it, will not 'rock' like a scribe tends to do.

The pictures explain this little tool, and it can be made to fit your four most commonly used scribe spacings. In my case it's 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", all labeled plainly. Put a hole in it for your finger and to hang it by, and PAINT IT RED (or other bright color) to keep it from getting lost in your bench clutter!

This will take mere minutes to make and save lots of time. Just some short thin battens, tacked/glued to a bit of ply. I have made some of these with bevels at the end to reach into corners, but they are then 'handed'. Let your needs be your guide.

Rectangle Wood Pattern Wool Magenta


Finger Wood Thumb Nail Rectangle


Wood Finger Wood stain Nail Hardwood
Thanks for all the kind words from everyone! I will try to continue to post things as I think of them and have time to write them up.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Dividing a line or space into equal parts

I've heard people say 'What good are learning things in school if you don't use them?'. After my lifetime of careers, I realize you never know what may be useful to you later. One of my most useful high school classes for example, was a one-semester class in typing - a 'fill-in' course - way back when they taught 'Typing'. I guess it is called 'keyboarding' if anything similar is even taught today.

Geometry was another, which at the time I studied it I could see no practical use for. But, as it turns out I used geometry in practice a great deal in my boatbuilding career, particularly in layout work. Thank goodness, enough of it stuck over the years to be very useful.

Case in point: Dividing a Line (or space) into equal parts;

Sometimes you need to divide a line, space or length into a number of smaller parts, all equal to each other. For example, suppose you have a space or piece of material 27-7/8" long which you need to divide into five equal parts. You can do this mathematically and end up with each part needing to be exactly 5.575" long. But, now you must convert this into English measurement equivalents (inches and fractions) and then try to measure these divisions with your ruler or scale. This is very hard to do accurately. Oddly, many common dimensions are hard to divide using English measures - for example 24" by 5 or 7 (4.8" & approx. 3.43").

(And, let me say right here as an aside, that even though I have lived with English measurements all my life, things are much easier using metrics! Among all nations, only Burma, Sierra Leone and the US have never officially adopted the international metric system . . . ! That being said, you CAN buy 'engineers' scales which divide English measurements into tenths, but few besides engineers and machinists use those.)

But, back to my example; in three steps, you can quickly and easily divide any length by any number of divisions graphically using simple geometry. For those who are not familiar with this, I present it to you here:

1. Establish (draw) lines at either end of your length or space to be divided, and at right angles (perpendicular) to it. See image #1.

Ruler Office ruler Wood Tool Measuring instrument


(Image 1 - space to be divided)

2. Place your ruler or scale between the two perpendiculars and angle it until you have a measurement you can easily divide by the number of equal spaces needed. For Instance, in the example above, you can easily use 30" and divide that by 5" increments to get 6 equal divisions. (Or, by 7-1/2" increments for four divisions, by 5" for six divisions, by 1" for thirty divisions and so on.) See image #2 & #3.

Ruler Office ruler Wood Font Line

(Image 2 - make tic marks at dividing points)

Ruler Office ruler Wood Font Wood stain

(Image 3 - tic mark at each dividing point)

3. Mark these points (I always use a short line against the scale with a tic mark at the point for accuracy), and lines drawn at right angles from the original line (or space), through your points gives the equal divisions. Saw cuts centered on these lines will make exactly equal parts if you are sufficiently careful. See image #4:

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Font

(Image 4 - draw perpendicular from each point back to line or space being divided)

If you need to divide a plank into a number of equal widths, you may use either edge of the plank as your 'perpendiculars'. Slant your scale and divide across from edge to edge at each end of your plank, and lines drawn with a straight edge through matching points will divide the plank into equal widths. A little thought shows you can even lay out a number of exactly equal tapers by adjusting the length of one end point! See image #5.

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel

(Image 5 - laying scale at an angle between lines to make the divisions equal)

Hopefully, the pictures provided describe this well enough to understand.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Dividing a line or space into equal parts

I've heard people say 'What good are learning things in school if you don't use them?'. After my lifetime of careers, I realize you never know what may be useful to you later. One of my most useful high school classes for example, was a one-semester class in typing - a 'fill-in' course - way back when they taught 'Typing'. I guess it is called 'keyboarding' if anything similar is even taught today.

Geometry was another, which at the time I studied it I could see no practical use for. But, as it turns out I used geometry in practice a great deal in my boatbuilding career, particularly in layout work. Thank goodness, enough of it stuck over the years to be very useful.

Case in point: Dividing a Line (or space) into equal parts;

Sometimes you need to divide a line, space or length into a number of smaller parts, all equal to each other. For example, suppose you have a space or piece of material 27-7/8" long which you need to divide into five equal parts. You can do this mathematically and end up with each part needing to be exactly 5.575" long. But, now you must convert this into English measurement equivalents (inches and fractions) and then try to measure these divisions with your ruler or scale. This is very hard to do accurately. Oddly, many common dimensions are hard to divide using English measures - for example 24" by 5 or 7 (4.8" & approx. 3.43").

(And, let me say right here as an aside, that even though I have lived with English measurements all my life, things are much easier using metrics! Among all nations, only Burma, Sierra Leone and the US have never officially adopted the international metric system . . . ! That being said, you CAN buy 'engineers' scales which divide English measurements into tenths, but few besides engineers and machinists use those.)

But, back to my example; in three steps, you can quickly and easily divide any length by any number of divisions graphically using simple geometry. For those who are not familiar with this, I present it to you here:

1. Establish (draw) lines at either end of your length or space to be divided, and at right angles (perpendicular) to it. See image #1.

Ruler Office ruler Wood Tool Measuring instrument


(Image 1 - space to be divided)

2. Place your ruler or scale between the two perpendiculars and angle it until you have a measurement you can easily divide by the number of equal spaces needed. For Instance, in the example above, you can easily use 30" and divide that by 5" increments to get 6 equal divisions. (Or, by 7-1/2" increments for four divisions, by 5" for six divisions, by 1" for thirty divisions and so on.) See image #2 & #3.

Ruler Office ruler Wood Font Line

(Image 2 - make tic marks at dividing points)

Ruler Office ruler Wood Font Wood stain

(Image 3 - tic mark at each dividing point)

3. Mark these points (I always use a short line against the scale with a tic mark at the point for accuracy), and lines drawn at right angles from the original line (or space), through your points gives the equal divisions. Saw cuts centered on these lines will make exactly equal parts if you are sufficiently careful. See image #4:

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Font

(Image 4 - draw perpendicular from each point back to line or space being divided)

If you need to divide a plank into a number of equal widths, you may use either edge of the plank as your 'perpendiculars'. Slant your scale and divide across from edge to edge at each end of your plank, and lines drawn with a straight edge through matching points will divide the plank into equal widths. A little thought shows you can even lay out a number of exactly equal tapers by adjusting the length of one end point! See image #5.

Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel

(Image 5 - laying scale at an angle between lines to make the divisions equal)

Hopefully, the pictures provided describe this well enough to understand.
Thanks for the reminder on geometry.

You're 100 % about not knowing what will and what will not be of benefit in school and life. I agree about both typing and geometry. Another "pud" course that I had to take in college, but which has helped immensely in life was "Business Correspondence". The first thing that course taught was to never start a paragraph with "I" as it showed a totally egotistical bent-it's amazing how many people start every paragraph with I.

Another contribution for my "Favorites" file.
 

Attachments

#35 ·
"Declivity" - a trick for dealing with things out of level or plumb

With shipbuilding in the past - and for some larger vessels even now - boats were built 'on the shingle' (beach), meaning they were built on a slope, sometimes quite steep. In fact, before the days of modern machinery, the slope of the building site enabled the builders to move and launch a vessel of many, many tons. And, unless the builder compensated for the angle of the shingle, many items could end up out of kilter once the vessel entered its working environment after launch.

This was dealt with in at least two ways: "deadrise" and "declivity compensation". ('declivity' means 'down slope' in its Latin origins).

First, and most obvious is the use of 'deadrise' in the keel and bottom to make the working part of the vessel more or less level during construction, while the keel itself rests at the angle, but still have the vessel float level and properly after launch. This works up to a point, but can get excessive, producing too much 'drag' to the keel (depth at the stern), especially if the slope is steep. Many vessels were built with their framing square (perpendicular) to the slope, with decks, superstructures, etc., so arranged to become level and plumb to 'earth' after launching. This made for interesting and difficult intersections and transitions, but I digress. See image #1.

Rectangle Slope Music Line Font

Compensating for the slope of the building site.

The subject of this post, is the use of 'declivity boards' during construction. While not many are building boats on the shingle these days (you never know!), a declivity board can come in handy for other things at times - anything needing to be built (or repaired) at an angle to earth, or leveled and plumbed when your base is not. These adaptations can be quickly made on the spot, for any angle, as needed.

In its simplest form, a declivity board is a wooden wedge about as long as your level, at a taper to match a particular slope, as required. This is then placed against the side of the level to compensate for the departure from level the slope makes, in either a horizontal or vertical direction. See image #2.

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Screenshot

A declivity board in use

A somewhat easier-to-use-and-make version is a simple batten tacked to a piece of thin stock at the required angle. But, this also then makes the declivity board 'handed', so the batten must be on both sides to make it both right and left handed. In use, the main issue is to be sure it is being used in the right direction, as it is easy to get things confused! See image #3.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Font

A simplified declivity board

I know this is mere trivia and of little use to many, but you still may find it interesting.

If you Google "ship launching' on YouTube, I guarantee you will find some fascinating videos to watch. There is nothing quite like seeing many thousands of tons of ship moving from dry land to its natural element. Once it starts, little on earth will stop them - and more than a few end up in disaster. If you ever have a chance in life to actually watch a ship launching, do yourself a favor and don't miss it - just be careful where you stand!
 

Attachments

#36 ·
"Declivity" - a trick for dealing with things out of level or plumb

With shipbuilding in the past - and for some larger vessels even now - boats were built 'on the shingle' (beach), meaning they were built on a slope, sometimes quite steep. In fact, before the days of modern machinery, the slope of the building site enabled the builders to move and launch a vessel of many, many tons. And, unless the builder compensated for the angle of the shingle, many items could end up out of kilter once the vessel entered its working environment after launch.

This was dealt with in at least two ways: "deadrise" and "declivity compensation". ('declivity' means 'down slope' in its Latin origins).

First, and most obvious is the use of 'deadrise' in the keel and bottom to make the working part of the vessel more or less level during construction, while the keel itself rests at the angle, but still have the vessel float level and properly after launch. This works up to a point, but can get excessive, producing too much 'drag' to the keel (depth at the stern), especially if the slope is steep. Many vessels were built with their framing square (perpendicular) to the slope, with decks, superstructures, etc., so arranged to become level and plumb to 'earth' after launching. This made for interesting and difficult intersections and transitions, but I digress. See image #1.

Rectangle Slope Music Line Font

Compensating for the slope of the building site.

The subject of this post, is the use of 'declivity boards' during construction. While not many are building boats on the shingle these days (you never know!), a declivity board can come in handy for other things at times - anything needing to be built (or repaired) at an angle to earth, or leveled and plumbed when your base is not. These adaptations can be quickly made on the spot, for any angle, as needed.

In its simplest form, a declivity board is a wooden wedge about as long as your level, at a taper to match a particular slope, as required. This is then placed against the side of the level to compensate for the departure from level the slope makes, in either a horizontal or vertical direction. See image #2.

Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Screenshot

A declivity board in use

A somewhat easier-to-use-and-make version is a simple batten tacked to a piece of thin stock at the required angle. But, this also then makes the declivity board 'handed', so the batten must be on both sides to make it both right and left handed. In use, the main issue is to be sure it is being used in the right direction, as it is easy to get things confused! See image #3.

Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain Font

A simplified declivity board

I know this is mere trivia and of little use to many, but you still may find it interesting.

If you Google "ship launching' on YouTube, I guarantee you will find some fascinating videos to watch. There is nothing quite like seeing many thousands of tons of ship moving from dry land to its natural element. Once it starts, little on earth will stop them - and more than a few end up in disaster. If you ever have a chance in life to actually watch a ship launching, do yourself a favor and don't miss it - just be careful where you stand!
Thanks! I love learning new things like this.
 

Attachments

#46 ·
Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using Them! (Part One)

When working with non-squared and oddly shaped things - like boats, you generally need starting and reference points. The most convenient usually being from the "centers" of something. One general approach is to 'work from the centers out', which seems to work well overall too most times.

For a simple example, suppose you must install a seat in a boat (or, a seat bottom in a chair). You may know the seat width or depth, but ends are not squared to that. Working from centerlines is the handiest and most accurate way to layout your stock, and will best insure your end result is symmetrical. See image #1:

Rectangle Schematic Font Slope Parallel

Image 1 - Finding centerline with try square and intersecting arcs

It is usually easy to find the center in a least one direction - simply use your ruler - or divide your dimension graphically as in my post on dividing into equal parts: (http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33282)

A try square may be used to draw 45 degree angles from the intersections (Image #1). Or, for relatively small dimensions, you may use a compass to swing equal arcs from the endpoints of a common line, which will intersect at your center line. (Image #1).

And here is a little "Gee Whiz" multi-tool you can make yourself in a half hour or so, to find the centers of round stock. You can buy a manufactured tool similar to this called a combination square with a centering head if money is no object, and there are various cheap plastic ones available too. Machinists and lathe using folks use centering heads. (Image #2, #3 & #4).

Musical instrument Guitar String instrument String instrument Musical instrument accessory

Image #2 - Layout of Gee Whiz

And, here is how it is used:

Gesture Finger Guitar accessory Font String instrument accessory

Finding center for round stock

Hand Product Finger Gesture Hand tool

Finding center for round stock - mark from two or more locations on end of stock and where lines intersect is the center.

But, this shop made multi-use version can also find and mark the center on long stock like planks (NOT a tapered planks!). In use, this Gee Whiz is slid along the plank with the pins held in contact with either edge of your plank, and a pencil inserted in the centering hole will mark the centerline down the length of the plank, except very near the ends - a straight edge can extend those.

The pictures should explain how this Gee Whiz is made.

Vertebrate Organism Mammal Triangle Yellow

Image #5 - Design of plank center finding side of Gee Whiz

If you make one, be very precise to locate your center hole EXACTLY CENTERED between the two pins since any error will be multiplied by two. The pins themselves are screws with the heads cut off and the ends filed for safety, and small bolts are even better. Nails will work too, except they tend to quickly get wobbly in use. You will notice a bit of a countersink at each hole in the pictures. That is so a tapered pencil point can be easily placed in the hole. Just be careful the countersink stops about an 1/8" from the marking side so the hole doesn't wallow out, and in use, be sure to hold your pencil as nearly vertical as possible when marking. If you paint this 'bright' it can be easily found on your workbench or shop wall. Once you try one, you may use it more than you think! See image #6:

Wood Finger Wood stain Flooring Hardwood

Image #5 - Finding & Marking center of length of plank

The overall shape of this tool is unimportant as long as the geometry is followed. Build one to suit your fancy!

You may also notice this Gee Whiz has two extra pencil holes, which I will try to explain the reason and use for, and where they should be placed in another post. Most wooden boatbuilders will already know the reason for those.

(and, here is the reason posted in a follow-up (part two) of this topic: http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33328)

I hope you find this helpful!
 

Attachments

#47 ·
Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using Them! (Part One)

When working with non-squared and oddly shaped things - like boats, you generally need starting and reference points. The most convenient usually being from the "centers" of something. One general approach is to 'work from the centers out', which seems to work well overall too most times.

For a simple example, suppose you must install a seat in a boat (or, a seat bottom in a chair). You may know the seat width or depth, but ends are not squared to that. Working from centerlines is the handiest and most accurate way to layout your stock, and will best insure your end result is symmetrical. See image #1:

Rectangle Schematic Font Slope Parallel

Image 1 - Finding centerline with try square and intersecting arcs

It is usually easy to find the center in a least one direction - simply use your ruler - or divide your dimension graphically as in my post on dividing into equal parts: (http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33282)

A try square may be used to draw 45 degree angles from the intersections (Image #1). Or, for relatively small dimensions, you may use a compass to swing equal arcs from the endpoints of a common line, which will intersect at your center line. (Image #1).

And here is a little "Gee Whiz" multi-tool you can make yourself in a half hour or so, to find the centers of round stock. You can buy a manufactured tool similar to this called a combination square with a centering head if money is no object, and there are various cheap plastic ones available too. Machinists and lathe using folks use centering heads. (Image #2, #3 & #4).

Musical instrument Guitar String instrument String instrument Musical instrument accessory

Image #2 - Layout of Gee Whiz

And, here is how it is used:

Gesture Finger Guitar accessory Font String instrument accessory

Finding center for round stock

Hand Product Finger Gesture Hand tool

Finding center for round stock - mark from two or more locations on end of stock and where lines intersect is the center.

But, this shop made multi-use version can also find and mark the center on long stock like planks (NOT a tapered planks!). In use, this Gee Whiz is slid along the plank with the pins held in contact with either edge of your plank, and a pencil inserted in the centering hole will mark the centerline down the length of the plank, except very near the ends - a straight edge can extend those.

The pictures should explain how this Gee Whiz is made.

Vertebrate Organism Mammal Triangle Yellow

Image #5 - Design of plank center finding side of Gee Whiz

If you make one, be very precise to locate your center hole EXACTLY CENTERED between the two pins since any error will be multiplied by two. The pins themselves are screws with the heads cut off and the ends filed for safety, and small bolts are even better. Nails will work too, except they tend to quickly get wobbly in use. You will notice a bit of a countersink at each hole in the pictures. That is so a tapered pencil point can be easily placed in the hole. Just be careful the countersink stops about an 1/8" from the marking side so the hole doesn't wallow out, and in use, be sure to hold your pencil as nearly vertical as possible when marking. If you paint this 'bright' it can be easily found on your workbench or shop wall. Once you try one, you may use it more than you think! See image #6:

Wood Finger Wood stain Flooring Hardwood

Image #5 - Finding & Marking center of length of plank

The overall shape of this tool is unimportant as long as the geometry is followed. Build one to suit your fancy!

You may also notice this Gee Whiz has two extra pencil holes, which I will try to explain the reason and use for, and where they should be placed in another post. Most wooden boatbuilders will already know the reason for those.

(and, here is the reason posted in a follow-up (part two) of this topic: http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33328)

I hope you find this helpful!
Thanks. Your "Gee Whiz" multi-tool goes to the top of my "to do" list. Another for my favorites.
 

Attachments

#55 ·
Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using Them! (Part Two)

Here's a little esoteric 'how-to' for those times you can not buy the 'round' you need in the size or material you want. This is a basic spar or mast builder's technique which works for making things round and long.

Almost all wooden masts have traditionally been built with a changing taper, diminishing towards the top. In ancient Grecian and Roman times, many of their architectural columns in their buildings were gracefully tapered from base to capital, and in fact often, the tapers began at the base in a particular diameter, then the diameter increased slightly for a distance before beginning a graceful, curving decrease in diameter towards the top. Some opinions say these changing curves are based on the human figure, and in particular on the female figure - the lovely taper in a woman's legs in the eyes of a man for example. For whatever reason, the idea of long, graceful tapering columns has carried over for millenia into more recent times in mast and spar building, and many other things too. Tapers also just so happen to be very well suited for making long things like masts smaller (lighter) towards the top, with weight being a penalty against stability the higher it is carried. You even see this in many aluminum light poles along the highways today.

Mast and spar builders over time developed techniques for both rounding something from a square piece of stock, and tapering it towards the end. And, that's where the two extra holes come in in the little Gee Whiz multi-tool presented in part one of "Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using Them!" (http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33315)

The extra two holes on the Gee Whiz are for laying out the facets on square stock to plane to in order to make the piece octagonal, or '8-sided'. Once planed to eight-sided, the stock can then be accurately rounded from there (on larger rounds, say over 10 or 12 inches, the stock is often '16-sided' after being 8-sided, but the concept is the same, though not the proportions).

In use, the tool is employed exactly as for centering long stock, but the two outermost pencil holes are used in lieu of the center hole. And, no matter the length, or taper, the marks will provide the lines to plane to for the full length of the stock except for the last few inches at the end. Simple as that.

Now, as to how this is laid out, here's how it is done. First, the stock is squared, obviously. Then, at any point along the length of the stock a square is constructed on the side of the stock, the same as the cross section of the stock at that point (or on a bit of scrap on the bench if you prefer). This is next bisected by diagonals to find the centers, and a circle is drawn to fit inside the square of the stock.

Next, tangents are draw at 45 degrees to the edge, where the diagonals bisect the circle. The point where this tangent intersects the edge of the circle marks the point of intersection of one of the facets of the octagon enclosing the circle - and so on around the circle. The fact is you have only to find two of these points to be able to lay out your work, and here is where the Gee Whiz comes in. These two points are proportional to the width, no matter how wide, and that is why the Gee Whiz works for all tapers, the full length of the stock. By keeping the pins against the sides of the square, you keep the same proportion anywhere along the length - not exactly precise at very steep angles, but generally close enough for 'government work' as they say. This is done on all sides of the stock, providing all the meeting points of all eight facets. @

I have included a graphic below which demonstrates the laying out of the points, and which should be easier to understand:

Font Slope Line Parallel Circle

Laying out 8-sides using graphical method

Further, since these proportions are always the same, you can use a ruler to do the same thing, albeit not quite as conveniently. A two-foot folding rule is particularly well suited for this, and to watch an old-timer laying out the facets for 8-siding a mast with his folding rule was like watching magic! Here is how that works:

A two-foot rule (or measurement) is laid out across the stock, so that each end touches an edge. Marks are made at the 7" point, and the 17" point. This is done down the length of the stock at convenient points, and then all the marks are connected with a straight edge or batten. Simple as that! (see sketch below)

Ecoregion Rectangle Slope Wood Font

Laying out 8-sides with two-foot rule

And, any multiples with the same proportions work just as well, for example, a 12" measurement, marked at the 3-1/2"points and 8-1/2" points! Who'd a-thunk it?

@ And, as my old daddy used to say, "Then, you plane off everything that doesn't look like a mast!"
 

Attachments

#56 ·
Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using Them! (Part Two)

Here's a little esoteric 'how-to' for those times you can not buy the 'round' you need in the size or material you want. This is a basic spar or mast builder's technique which works for making things round and long.

Almost all wooden masts have traditionally been built with a changing taper, diminishing towards the top. In ancient Grecian and Roman times, many of their architectural columns in their buildings were gracefully tapered from base to capital, and in fact often, the tapers began at the base in a particular diameter, then the diameter increased slightly for a distance before beginning a graceful, curving decrease in diameter towards the top. Some opinions say these changing curves are based on the human figure, and in particular on the female figure - the lovely taper in a woman's legs in the eyes of a man for example. For whatever reason, the idea of long, graceful tapering columns has carried over for millenia into more recent times in mast and spar building, and many other things too. Tapers also just so happen to be very well suited for making long things like masts smaller (lighter) towards the top, with weight being a penalty against stability the higher it is carried. You even see this in many aluminum light poles along the highways today.

Mast and spar builders over time developed techniques for both rounding something from a square piece of stock, and tapering it towards the end. And, that's where the two extra holes come in in the little Gee Whiz multi-tool presented in part one of "Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using Them!" (http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33315)

The extra two holes on the Gee Whiz are for laying out the facets on square stock to plane to in order to make the piece octagonal, or '8-sided'. Once planed to eight-sided, the stock can then be accurately rounded from there (on larger rounds, say over 10 or 12 inches, the stock is often '16-sided' after being 8-sided, but the concept is the same, though not the proportions).

In use, the tool is employed exactly as for centering long stock, but the two outermost pencil holes are used in lieu of the center hole. And, no matter the length, or taper, the marks will provide the lines to plane to for the full length of the stock except for the last few inches at the end. Simple as that.

Now, as to how this is laid out, here's how it is done. First, the stock is squared, obviously. Then, at any point along the length of the stock a square is constructed on the side of the stock, the same as the cross section of the stock at that point (or on a bit of scrap on the bench if you prefer). This is next bisected by diagonals to find the centers, and a circle is drawn to fit inside the square of the stock.

Next, tangents are draw at 45 degrees to the edge, where the diagonals bisect the circle. The point where this tangent intersects the edge of the circle marks the point of intersection of one of the facets of the octagon enclosing the circle - and so on around the circle. The fact is you have only to find two of these points to be able to lay out your work, and here is where the Gee Whiz comes in. These two points are proportional to the width, no matter how wide, and that is why the Gee Whiz works for all tapers, the full length of the stock. By keeping the pins against the sides of the square, you keep the same proportion anywhere along the length - not exactly precise at very steep angles, but generally close enough for 'government work' as they say. This is done on all sides of the stock, providing all the meeting points of all eight facets. @

I have included a graphic below which demonstrates the laying out of the points, and which should be easier to understand:

Font Slope Line Parallel Circle

Laying out 8-sides using graphical method

Further, since these proportions are always the same, you can use a ruler to do the same thing, albeit not quite as conveniently. A two-foot folding rule is particularly well suited for this, and to watch an old-timer laying out the facets for 8-siding a mast with his folding rule was like watching magic! Here is how that works:

A two-foot rule (or measurement) is laid out across the stock, so that each end touches an edge. Marks are made at the 7" point, and the 17" point. This is done down the length of the stock at convenient points, and then all the marks are connected with a straight edge or batten. Simple as that! (see sketch below)

Ecoregion Rectangle Slope Wood Font

Laying out 8-sides with two-foot rule

And, any multiples with the same proportions work just as well, for example, a 12" measurement, marked at the 3-1/2"points and 8-1/2" points! Who'd a-thunk it?

@ And, as my old daddy used to say, "Then, you plane off everything that doesn't look like a mast!"
Very good explanation Eric.
 

Attachments

#65 ·
Measuring Things - Rulers Versus Tapes

"MORE THAN YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT SIX-FOOT FOLDING RULES!"

Most people today use a flexible metal tape for measurement, except for some old-timers. There are reasons for this besides stubborn intransigence - although that surely plays a part. First, most set-in-their-ways people like me suspect metal things are more affected by temperature than wooden things, which is correct. Steel thermally expands or contracts roughly three times as much as the wood in a ruler. For example, a six foot length of steel tape will expand or contract about 19/1000" with a 40 degree F temp change, and the change with wood is only 6/1000". Since that is less than a 1/64" difference, in practical terms, it makes no difference. Maybe in rocket science, but not in woodworking.

Another reason? Well, by golly, we JUST DON'T LIKE those flimsy, fluttery, noisy darned things, that's what! Face it, we DO stick with the things we are used to and like. And, that isn't anything new either, I recall as a young person in the boat shop, the old guys back then sneered at my shiny, new six foot folding rule, clinging stubbornly to their gnarly old two foot versions! And don't even dare bring a steel tape into the shop! Ah well, times change, and so does everything around us.

And, just for the record, I have a two foot folding rule too, because there are a few interesting things you can do with those you can't do with anything else so conveniently, if at all. More about that perhaps later in another post.

I have seen many an old-timer flick out their two foot rule in one motion, and have the saw set and in action before I got my six-footer out of my pocket. And, I'll bet you, man for man, I can do the same thing these days against the young guy with his noxious steel tape clipped to his belt. And just try shoving a bit of scrap out of the way on the other side of the bench with your wimpy tape! The fact is, we work best with the things we like and are familiar with. To me, there is very little warmth and friendliness in a sterile piece of metal compared to my friendly boxwood rule, with its nicks, patina, splatters, easy and familiar action, and even its smell - but then, that's just me, and trust me, don't try that kind of comparison with your wife, husband or significant other!

I've had a a couple of favorites now for close on to forty years if not longer. I've broken several over the years of course - rulers, not wives! And, I keep a spare or two around, because if you can't measure in a woodworking shop, you are shut down until you can. This brings me to my first point. A year ago I went off with my brother for a day to look at a boat for him. When he left, he drove off with one of my much-loved rulers in his car by accident - my fault. When I missed it, I called him - I said I loved it, didn't I? By that time, he had flown 5000 miles away and could not send it back. I told him not to bother, I'd just get another one - although the one I lost was so well seasoned and easy to use - I could flick it out and have it fully extended in about half a second, and I really hated to lose it. One thing about folding rulers is the more you use them the easier they operate, especially if the joints are kept oiled periodically. Eventually though, they can get too 'easy' and become sloppy - but just try getting a steel tape to hold up for forty years!

Problem was, no local supplier had the ruler model I had and preferred - a 'Master Mechanic' Inside Reading six foot folding ruler made of boxwood. Not the local hardware, not Lowe's, not Home Depot, no one! After a little research, I found the manufacturer no longer makes this model in boxwood. In plastic yes, but not for me - I'll pass on plastic, thank you. Besides, I strongly suspect those are made offshore now.

Then I got lucky, I thought. Lufkin still makes a boxwood model which looked exactly the same as mine in the pictures online - their model #066F. I ordered one and it came 'Made in the USA' right on the side. But it wasn't the same at all. Sure, inside reading, and all that, but it was different - thicker, bulky, heavier, klutzier. I practically hate it in fact, but kept it since it is the only spare I have now. Meanwhile, my brother has inherited my old rule and since he seems to like it, I don't have the heart to ask for it back. But, if I go visit him, I will take the new one and swap them out surreptitiously - he'll never notice the difference, will he?

Here is a picture of the old Master Mechanic versus the new Lufkin.

Musical instrument Wood Circuit component Rectangle Font


Now to my second point - why "Inside Reading"? Just in case you are not familiar with the difference in styles, inside reading means when you fold out part of your rule and lay it flat on your stock with the unfolded joints up towards you, you look at the numbers naturally reading from left to right, from low to high numbers.
This is called 'English Measure'. The ruler lays nice and flat against your work, as you work from left to right, which seems right to me. See below:

Wood Line Brush Material property Font


The more common type - called 'American Measure' is reversed - the low numbers are on the outside, so you must use it from right to left. If you try to use the rule from left to right, the unfolded joints are underneath, and you can't lay the rule flat on your work - it either must hang off the edge of your work - which is not convenient if you are working inside a large piece of stock like ply, or you are forced to read the numbers from high to low, or, you must unfold the full length of the ruler and flip it over for it to lay flat - then the numbers are upside down! For the life of me, I still can't figure why that style is dominant - and the only one available most places now. Have you noticed how hard it is to find really high quality hand tools now?

You will notice in the picture below there are small holes drilled around the one inch mark in my rules. That serves two purposes; one is to hold the end in place with a nail when I am marking off multiple smaller increments without fear of shifting, and the other is I can use my rule to swing an arc of up to a 71" radius on occasion:

Tape measure Font Line Publication Event


The are things I do like about steel tapes, one being the little thingy on the end to clip on the edge of something to hold the end - but those are the first things to go too. And of course you can have steel tapes in almost any length is you don't mind the weight. Don't tell anybody, but I do have a couple lying around. Another thing to keep in mind about your favorite rulers - or tapes - if you love them, don't ever, ever loan them or let anyone use them, anytime, no time, ever, and most especially children, who are drawn to them like magnets!

The last time one of my grandchildren took a shine to my ruler, I went out and bought a brand new one just for him - American Measure of course since it was all I could find.
 

Attachments

#66 ·
Measuring Things - Rulers Versus Tapes

"MORE THAN YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT SIX-FOOT FOLDING RULES!"

Most people today use a flexible metal tape for measurement, except for some old-timers. There are reasons for this besides stubborn intransigence - although that surely plays a part. First, most set-in-their-ways people like me suspect metal things are more affected by temperature than wooden things, which is correct. Steel thermally expands or contracts roughly three times as much as the wood in a ruler. For example, a six foot length of steel tape will expand or contract about 19/1000" with a 40 degree F temp change, and the change with wood is only 6/1000". Since that is less than a 1/64" difference, in practical terms, it makes no difference. Maybe in rocket science, but not in woodworking.

Another reason? Well, by golly, we JUST DON'T LIKE those flimsy, fluttery, noisy darned things, that's what! Face it, we DO stick with the things we are used to and like. And, that isn't anything new either, I recall as a young person in the boat shop, the old guys back then sneered at my shiny, new six foot folding rule, clinging stubbornly to their gnarly old two foot versions! And don't even dare bring a steel tape into the shop! Ah well, times change, and so does everything around us.

And, just for the record, I have a two foot folding rule too, because there are a few interesting things you can do with those you can't do with anything else so conveniently, if at all. More about that perhaps later in another post.

I have seen many an old-timer flick out their two foot rule in one motion, and have the saw set and in action before I got my six-footer out of my pocket. And, I'll bet you, man for man, I can do the same thing these days against the young guy with his noxious steel tape clipped to his belt. And just try shoving a bit of scrap out of the way on the other side of the bench with your wimpy tape! The fact is, we work best with the things we like and are familiar with. To me, there is very little warmth and friendliness in a sterile piece of metal compared to my friendly boxwood rule, with its nicks, patina, splatters, easy and familiar action, and even its smell - but then, that's just me, and trust me, don't try that kind of comparison with your wife, husband or significant other!

I've had a a couple of favorites now for close on to forty years if not longer. I've broken several over the years of course - rulers, not wives! And, I keep a spare or two around, because if you can't measure in a woodworking shop, you are shut down until you can. This brings me to my first point. A year ago I went off with my brother for a day to look at a boat for him. When he left, he drove off with one of my much-loved rulers in his car by accident - my fault. When I missed it, I called him - I said I loved it, didn't I? By that time, he had flown 5000 miles away and could not send it back. I told him not to bother, I'd just get another one - although the one I lost was so well seasoned and easy to use - I could flick it out and have it fully extended in about half a second, and I really hated to lose it. One thing about folding rulers is the more you use them the easier they operate, especially if the joints are kept oiled periodically. Eventually though, they can get too 'easy' and become sloppy - but just try getting a steel tape to hold up for forty years!

Problem was, no local supplier had the ruler model I had and preferred - a 'Master Mechanic' Inside Reading six foot folding ruler made of boxwood. Not the local hardware, not Lowe's, not Home Depot, no one! After a little research, I found the manufacturer no longer makes this model in boxwood. In plastic yes, but not for me - I'll pass on plastic, thank you. Besides, I strongly suspect those are made offshore now.

Then I got lucky, I thought. Lufkin still makes a boxwood model which looked exactly the same as mine in the pictures online - their model #066F. I ordered one and it came 'Made in the USA' right on the side. But it wasn't the same at all. Sure, inside reading, and all that, but it was different - thicker, bulky, heavier, klutzier. I practically hate it in fact, but kept it since it is the only spare I have now. Meanwhile, my brother has inherited my old rule and since he seems to like it, I don't have the heart to ask for it back. But, if I go visit him, I will take the new one and swap them out surreptitiously - he'll never notice the difference, will he?

Here is a picture of the old Master Mechanic versus the new Lufkin.

Musical instrument Wood Circuit component Rectangle Font


Now to my second point - why "Inside Reading"? Just in case you are not familiar with the difference in styles, inside reading means when you fold out part of your rule and lay it flat on your stock with the unfolded joints up towards you, you look at the numbers naturally reading from left to right, from low to high numbers.
This is called 'English Measure'. The ruler lays nice and flat against your work, as you work from left to right, which seems right to me. See below:

Wood Line Brush Material property Font


The more common type - called 'American Measure' is reversed - the low numbers are on the outside, so you must use it from right to left. If you try to use the rule from left to right, the unfolded joints are underneath, and you can't lay the rule flat on your work - it either must hang off the edge of your work - which is not convenient if you are working inside a large piece of stock like ply, or you are forced to read the numbers from high to low, or, you must unfold the full length of the ruler and flip it over for it to lay flat - then the numbers are upside down! For the life of me, I still can't figure why that style is dominant - and the only one available most places now. Have you noticed how hard it is to find really high quality hand tools now?

You will notice in the picture below there are small holes drilled around the one inch mark in my rules. That serves two purposes; one is to hold the end in place with a nail when I am marking off multiple smaller increments without fear of shifting, and the other is I can use my rule to swing an arc of up to a 71" radius on occasion:

Tape measure Font Line Publication Event


The are things I do like about steel tapes, one being the little thingy on the end to clip on the edge of something to hold the end - but those are the first things to go too. And of course you can have steel tapes in almost any length is you don't mind the weight. Don't tell anybody, but I do have a couple lying around. Another thing to keep in mind about your favorite rulers - or tapes - if you love them, don't ever, ever loan them or let anyone use them, anytime, no time, ever, and most especially children, who are drawn to them like magnets!

The last time one of my grandchildren took a shine to my ruler, I went out and bought a brand new one just for him - American Measure of course since it was all I could find.
Thanks for this article. That is one thing I never understood and was driving me crazy about wooden rules, was the way the numbering system worked. I could never understand how anyone would find them useful. I now know there is a type to look for.

Thanks for sharing,

David
 

Attachments

#82 ·
Measuring Things - The Two-Foot Folding Rule

"More Than You Ever Needed to Know about Two-Foot folding rules"

Let me say up front that I am most familiar with the six-foot folding rule. That said, I will share with you some things I have learned about two-foot rules. Most common are those with four joints, known as 'Two-foot, Four-Fold Rules', and you can do many things with them.These were typically carried in a workman's shirt pocket, or in the side pocket on the right leg of most overalls of the time. There were also two-foot, six-fold rules made to make them even smaller to carry, but those never were as popular. Historically, most carpenters and woodworkers used the two-foot rule until the late 'forties and into the 'fifties when the six-foot folding rule gained favor. But, many old-timers from the 'forties and 'fifties and before favored them and continued to use them until they retired or died off. I'd imagine you will still find some in use today, but increasingly rarely. I own one, but don't use it much, mostly because I grew more familiar with the six-footer.

Rectangle Font Music Parallel Handwriting

Working ends of American versus English measurements

Here are a couple things you can do with a two-footer that are hard or impossible to do with anything else:

First, you can lay out angles up to 90 degrees with a two-foot rule, without using math for those who find numbers difficult. Expert workmen had a few angles memorized, say 15, 20 and 30 degrees. Other angles could often be derived from those. You simply mark a straight line of a specific distance to represent the angle desired. You then open up the legs of the rule and placed one leg on each end of the line. The angle you need is made by the legs. For example, if you need 15 degrees, the measurement is 3-1/8", for 20 degrees it is 4-7/64", for 30 degrees it is 6-7/32" and so on. There actually used to be tables published with a complete list of measurements for all angles to 90 degrees and these might be tacked to the shop wall. (A far more convenient way used by most boat shops was a 'Bevel Board' with all angles needed scribed on it, and one simply needed to use a adjustable sliding tee bevel to pull off the required angle. See below)

Wood Rectangle Office ruler Font Ruler

You can download a printable version for your use here: http://shipwrightstyle.com/shipwright-style-quick-and-easy-bevel-board/

And, then there is the "3, 4, 5 rule" for right angles which most layout folks know. Simply put, a line 3 increments long has an arc of 4 increments swung from one end, and 5 increments from the other, and where the arcs intersect is the end of the leg forming a right angle with the "3" end. Conversely, you can start at the 4 increment leg and swing a 3 increment arc and get the same result. The sweet thing about this, is that any multiple works so long as the proportions remain the same. If you are unfamiliar with why this works, google the 'Pythagorean Theorem' online.

Another thing two-foot rules can be used for is to layout octagons for turning square stock into octagons, and then rounds. That is described in the blog entry "Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using them, Part Two" http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33328

In fact, it is written two-foot rules once came with two extra symbols on them labeled "E" and "M", many years ago just for laying out octagons, but I do not know just how those worked. Perhaps they were at the 7" and 17" marks.

I am getting way off subject here, but there are several other kinds of 'Two-Foot Rules' which are interesting:

In football, the Two-Foot Rule; "Two feet must come down within bounds to have possession of a passed ball";

In bee-keeping, the Less Than Two-Feet or More Than Two-Mile Rule; "When moving a bee hive, you must move it less than two feet, or more than two miles in order for the returning bees to re-locate it";

With domesticated rabbits, the Two-Foot Rule; "If you don't want it eaten, it must be more than two feet off the ground."

The Open-Space Technology Two-Foot Rule for meetings, symposiums and conferences: "If at any time during our time together you find yourself in any situation where you are neither learning nor contributing, use your two feet, go someplace else."

And, getting way far out there now, during the 1918 Influenza epidemic, Pasadena, CA passed an ordnance called the 'Two Foot Rule'. It was only permissible to hold open air meetings in public places, so long as all attendees kept a distance of two feet apart! Apparently this rule was enforced and people were cited for non-compliance. There was a run on two-foot rules wherever they were sold! You just can't make this kind of stuff up!

For anyone who is interested in owning a two-foot rule, new ones can still be bought made by the Robert Larson Co. You can also find them on eBay in all manner of condition. And, if you want a really nice one made the old way, and your checking account can stand it, you can find antiques in remarkably good conditions sometimes. Here are a few sources:

Liberty Tools, Maine - http://www.libertytoolco.com/
Rose Antique Tools - http://www.shop.roseantiquetools.net/
Tool exchange - Australia. - http://toolexchange.com.au/ (this one is in Australia, but will ship to the US and has a good reputation)
 

Attachments

#83 ·
Measuring Things - The Two-Foot Folding Rule

"More Than You Ever Needed to Know about Two-Foot folding rules"

Let me say up front that I am most familiar with the six-foot folding rule. That said, I will share with you some things I have learned about two-foot rules. Most common are those with four joints, known as 'Two-foot, Four-Fold Rules', and you can do many things with them.These were typically carried in a workman's shirt pocket, or in the side pocket on the right leg of most overalls of the time. There were also two-foot, six-fold rules made to make them even smaller to carry, but those never were as popular. Historically, most carpenters and woodworkers used the two-foot rule until the late 'forties and into the 'fifties when the six-foot folding rule gained favor. But, many old-timers from the 'forties and 'fifties and before favored them and continued to use them until they retired or died off. I'd imagine you will still find some in use today, but increasingly rarely. I own one, but don't use it much, mostly because I grew more familiar with the six-footer.

Rectangle Font Music Parallel Handwriting

Working ends of American versus English measurements

Here are a couple things you can do with a two-footer that are hard or impossible to do with anything else:

First, you can lay out angles up to 90 degrees with a two-foot rule, without using math for those who find numbers difficult. Expert workmen had a few angles memorized, say 15, 20 and 30 degrees. Other angles could often be derived from those. You simply mark a straight line of a specific distance to represent the angle desired. You then open up the legs of the rule and placed one leg on each end of the line. The angle you need is made by the legs. For example, if you need 15 degrees, the measurement is 3-1/8", for 20 degrees it is 4-7/64", for 30 degrees it is 6-7/32" and so on. There actually used to be tables published with a complete list of measurements for all angles to 90 degrees and these might be tacked to the shop wall. (A far more convenient way used by most boat shops was a 'Bevel Board' with all angles needed scribed on it, and one simply needed to use a adjustable sliding tee bevel to pull off the required angle. See below)

Wood Rectangle Office ruler Font Ruler

You can download a printable version for your use here: http://shipwrightstyle.com/shipwright-style-quick-and-easy-bevel-board/

And, then there is the "3, 4, 5 rule" for right angles which most layout folks know. Simply put, a line 3 increments long has an arc of 4 increments swung from one end, and 5 increments from the other, and where the arcs intersect is the end of the leg forming a right angle with the "3" end. Conversely, you can start at the 4 increment leg and swing a 3 increment arc and get the same result. The sweet thing about this, is that any multiple works so long as the proportions remain the same. If you are unfamiliar with why this works, google the 'Pythagorean Theorem' online.

Another thing two-foot rules can be used for is to layout octagons for turning square stock into octagons, and then rounds. That is described in the blog entry "Centerlines - Finding, Marking and Using them, Part Two" http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33328

In fact, it is written two-foot rules once came with two extra symbols on them labeled "E" and "M", many years ago just for laying out octagons, but I do not know just how those worked. Perhaps they were at the 7" and 17" marks.

I am getting way off subject here, but there are several other kinds of 'Two-Foot Rules' which are interesting:

In football, the Two-Foot Rule; "Two feet must come down within bounds to have possession of a passed ball";

In bee-keeping, the Less Than Two-Feet or More Than Two-Mile Rule; "When moving a bee hive, you must move it less than two feet, or more than two miles in order for the returning bees to re-locate it";

With domesticated rabbits, the Two-Foot Rule; "If you don't want it eaten, it must be more than two feet off the ground."

The Open-Space Technology Two-Foot Rule for meetings, symposiums and conferences: "If at any time during our time together you find yourself in any situation where you are neither learning nor contributing, use your two feet, go someplace else."

And, getting way far out there now, during the 1918 Influenza epidemic, Pasadena, CA passed an ordnance called the 'Two Foot Rule'. It was only permissible to hold open air meetings in public places, so long as all attendees kept a distance of two feet apart! Apparently this rule was enforced and people were cited for non-compliance. There was a run on two-foot rules wherever they were sold! You just can't make this kind of stuff up!

For anyone who is interested in owning a two-foot rule, new ones can still be bought made by the Robert Larson Co. You can also find them on eBay in all manner of condition. And, if you want a really nice one made the old way, and your checking account can stand it, you can find antiques in remarkably good conditions sometimes. Here are a few sources:

Liberty Tools, Maine - http://www.libertytoolco.com/
Rose Antique Tools - http://www.shop.roseantiquetools.net/
Tool exchange - Australia. - http://toolexchange.com.au/ (this one is in Australia, but will ship to the US and has a good reputation)
thanks for the link to print the bevel board
 

Attachments

#89 ·
Laying out irregular areas and surfaces

The "Tickle Stick"
Here's a layout tip for boat work, and it comes in handy for other things too. This technique is used to accurately pick up the edges of irregularly shaped areas or surfaces and transfer them to the material to be cut. The original purpose was in taking off (measuring) bulkheads to fit accurately against a curved boat hull. The idea can also be used laying out a seat for a bay window, a countertop notched around obstructions, chair bottoms and other things. The technique can be used vertically, horizontally, and all in between.

Wood Rectangle Font Natural material Beige

This is a small Tickle Stick I often use in small areas or sections

These little tools have been called 'jiggle sticks', 'joggle sticks', 'tickle sticks' and other things too. In concept it is a bit like the small profiler tool you can buy for fitting things against curved and notched moldings. But it is a much bigger, and more versatile version, and can be made on the spot if need be for the job at hand. We will call these 'tickle sticks' for this blog entry.

The tickle stick itself is a deliberately irregularly shaped tool made from thin stock, like 1/8" or 1/4" ply, or other stiff material. I have a number of these made from thin oak, ash, or mahogany pieces which were remnant drop offs from resawing something, and in a range of sizes from about 6" to nearly 4 feet long - mostly used for laying out boat bulkheads. The main requirements are to have them relatively thin, straight and stiff. It helps to have one long edge straight to help in aligning things when in use. The other edge is tapered with a number of irregular 'saw teeth' cut into it, each of which is numbered or lettered on both sides to match. The tip should be slender to reach into tight spots.

Wood Composite material Natural material Metal Building material

My 'set' of well-used Tickle Sticks!

Here is how they are used:

1. A length of temporary layout material (sometimes called a 'story board') is clamped, or otherwise secured in the same plane as the part you intend to make. The layout material should be wide enough - at least 6" - to enable you to make plentiful marks on it. If the intended part will have a straight side, try to align one edge of the layout material where that should be, or a set distance parallel to it;

2. The tickle stick is held firmly or clamped (spring clamps work great) to the face of the layout material so that its tip is in contact with a point on the material which you plan to fit to. It will sometimes be necessary to flip the tickle stick over to reach into a hard to reach spot, and the reason for marking on both sides. BE SURE to mark along the straight edge side, to help in later alignments;

3. Carefully and closely mark the straightedge side of the tickle stick, and several of the notches on the tapered side with your pencil. Remove the tickle stick and label the 'teeth' to match the tickle stick;

4. Do this the number of times needed to accurately mark everything you need. Check before you remove your layout material to be sure you have enough marks, to enough points;

Slope Font Parallel Diagram Symmetry

Showing how the Tickle Stick is used in laying out a horizontal window box seat (left), and vertical, curving boat bulkhead to fit against the hull side (right). Sufficient points are 'tickled off'on the story board to provide enough information for transfer to the stock to be cut. Sometimes marks will fall over an earlier mark, but because of the alignment it is easy to keep them in the right relationship;

5. Remove the story board and lay it on the material you need to cut, aligning the straight edge with the edge of your stock, or compensating for any offset. Check at the ends and edges to make sure you have sufficient stock to go beyond the furtherest reaches of the tickle stick at its extremes. Clamp or tack the layout material securely to your stock;

6. Now, take the tickle stick and lay it precisely in the same places you have marked on the story board, and either clamp it down, or place something heavy on it so it does not shift while you mark where the tip end is on your stock. If your layout material has much thickness, it is best to use a tri-square to square down from the tip of the tickle stick to your stock;

7. It is now time to 'connect the dots' as they say, which should provide a very accurate fit when everything is cut.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Engineering


I hope you can use this little trick!

ADDENDUM - some people were a little confused by my graphic, so I will try to straighten things out here. The idea is to use the SAME tickle stick on a single layout in a number of different locations as needed. The only time it may be necessary to use more than one stick for a layout is if the region being measured is so different in size from one part to another that a single stick will not reach.
 

Attachments

#90 ·
Laying out irregular areas and surfaces

The "Tickle Stick"
Here's a layout tip for boat work, and it comes in handy for other things too. This technique is used to accurately pick up the edges of irregularly shaped areas or surfaces and transfer them to the material to be cut. The original purpose was in taking off (measuring) bulkheads to fit accurately against a curved boat hull. The idea can also be used laying out a seat for a bay window, a countertop notched around obstructions, chair bottoms and other things. The technique can be used vertically, horizontally, and all in between.

Wood Rectangle Font Natural material Beige

This is a small Tickle Stick I often use in small areas or sections

These little tools have been called 'jiggle sticks', 'joggle sticks', 'tickle sticks' and other things too. In concept it is a bit like the small profiler tool you can buy for fitting things against curved and notched moldings. But it is a much bigger, and more versatile version, and can be made on the spot if need be for the job at hand. We will call these 'tickle sticks' for this blog entry.

The tickle stick itself is a deliberately irregularly shaped tool made from thin stock, like 1/8" or 1/4" ply, or other stiff material. I have a number of these made from thin oak, ash, or mahogany pieces which were remnant drop offs from resawing something, and in a range of sizes from about 6" to nearly 4 feet long - mostly used for laying out boat bulkheads. The main requirements are to have them relatively thin, straight and stiff. It helps to have one long edge straight to help in aligning things when in use. The other edge is tapered with a number of irregular 'saw teeth' cut into it, each of which is numbered or lettered on both sides to match. The tip should be slender to reach into tight spots.

Wood Composite material Natural material Metal Building material

My 'set' of well-used Tickle Sticks!

Here is how they are used:

1. A length of temporary layout material (sometimes called a 'story board') is clamped, or otherwise secured in the same plane as the part you intend to make. The layout material should be wide enough - at least 6" - to enable you to make plentiful marks on it. If the intended part will have a straight side, try to align one edge of the layout material where that should be, or a set distance parallel to it;

2. The tickle stick is held firmly or clamped (spring clamps work great) to the face of the layout material so that its tip is in contact with a point on the material which you plan to fit to. It will sometimes be necessary to flip the tickle stick over to reach into a hard to reach spot, and the reason for marking on both sides. BE SURE to mark along the straight edge side, to help in later alignments;

3. Carefully and closely mark the straightedge side of the tickle stick, and several of the notches on the tapered side with your pencil. Remove the tickle stick and label the 'teeth' to match the tickle stick;

4. Do this the number of times needed to accurately mark everything you need. Check before you remove your layout material to be sure you have enough marks, to enough points;

Slope Font Parallel Diagram Symmetry

Showing how the Tickle Stick is used in laying out a horizontal window box seat (left), and vertical, curving boat bulkhead to fit against the hull side (right). Sufficient points are 'tickled off'on the story board to provide enough information for transfer to the stock to be cut. Sometimes marks will fall over an earlier mark, but because of the alignment it is easy to keep them in the right relationship;

5. Remove the story board and lay it on the material you need to cut, aligning the straight edge with the edge of your stock, or compensating for any offset. Check at the ends and edges to make sure you have sufficient stock to go beyond the furtherest reaches of the tickle stick at its extremes. Clamp or tack the layout material securely to your stock;

6. Now, take the tickle stick and lay it precisely in the same places you have marked on the story board, and either clamp it down, or place something heavy on it so it does not shift while you mark where the tip end is on your stock. If your layout material has much thickness, it is best to use a tri-square to square down from the tip of the tickle stick to your stock;

7. It is now time to 'connect the dots' as they say, which should provide a very accurate fit when everything is cut.

Wood Flooring Floor Wood stain Engineering


I hope you can use this little trick!

ADDENDUM - some people were a little confused by my graphic, so I will try to straighten things out here. The idea is to use the SAME tickle stick on a single layout in a number of different locations as needed. The only time it may be necessary to use more than one stick for a layout is if the region being measured is so different in size from one part to another that a single stick will not reach.
This is really cool-thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I'm going to have to study this some more when things quiet down.
 

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#100 ·
Preventing End Grain splitting

You are faced with end grain splitting or tearing out when working some woods. Most woodworkers know to clamp a piece of waste stock hard up against the material being worked to prevent this when planing across end grain. But what about those times when you are simply sanding or doing some other operation on end grain?

Some materials have a bad tendency to tear out slivers at the ends of narrow stock, such as a chair or table leg. Sometimes simply sliding a wooden chair leg across the floor - especially if the floor is textured, can tear out a sliver or wood at the end grain. Maple is bad for this, as are some pines, and mahogany.

A simple little trick I have found is this: Turn your stock so that the end grain is up; using masking or duct tape, make a tape 'dam' completely around your stock - see photo below:

Wood Packing materials Flooring Hardwood Paper bag


Mix a little good quality varnish with a bit of thinner so that it is quite thin. Pour or brush a little of this on the end grain inside the dam. Be sure to get enough there so that it 'floats' or stays liquid on top of the end grain at first. Leave it to soak overnight or longer, until it is completely absorbed. Most woods will soak up liquid by capillary action, quite far into the wood - sometimes several inches. You can see the evidence of this sometimes when it weeps out the sides of the material below the end grain and dam. See Photos:

Wood Chair Rectangle Artifact Tints and shades


Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood Wood stain


Of course you can do something similar with glues, but they are usually of such a viscosity glues, even thinned, will not as easily soak in as a paint or varnish. Once the material is soaked in, remove the tape, clean up the sides and allow it to cure until hard, which may take a day or two.This will bind the fibers together and usually will cure problems with end grain tear out.
 

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#101 ·
Preventing End Grain splitting

You are faced with end grain splitting or tearing out when working some woods. Most woodworkers know to clamp a piece of waste stock hard up against the material being worked to prevent this when planing across end grain. But what about those times when you are simply sanding or doing some other operation on end grain?

Some materials have a bad tendency to tear out slivers at the ends of narrow stock, such as a chair or table leg. Sometimes simply sliding a wooden chair leg across the floor - especially if the floor is textured, can tear out a sliver or wood at the end grain. Maple is bad for this, as are some pines, and mahogany.

A simple little trick I have found is this: Turn your stock so that the end grain is up; using masking or duct tape, make a tape 'dam' completely around your stock - see photo below:

Wood Packing materials Flooring Hardwood Paper bag


Mix a little good quality varnish with a bit of thinner so that it is quite thin. Pour or brush a little of this on the end grain inside the dam. Be sure to get enough there so that it 'floats' or stays liquid on top of the end grain at first. Leave it to soak overnight or longer, until it is completely absorbed. Most woods will soak up liquid by capillary action, quite far into the wood - sometimes several inches. You can see the evidence of this sometimes when it weeps out the sides of the material below the end grain and dam. See Photos:

Wood Chair Rectangle Artifact Tints and shades


Wood Rectangle Font Hardwood Wood stain


Of course you can do something similar with glues, but they are usually of such a viscosity glues, even thinned, will not as easily soak in as a paint or varnish. Once the material is soaked in, remove the tape, clean up the sides and allow it to cure until hard, which may take a day or two.This will bind the fibers together and usually will cure problems with end grain tear out.
Thanks
good idea
 

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#106 ·
Clamping Big Stuff

Here are some little tricks you can use when you are trying to clamp something bigger or longer than your available clamps.

'Joining' clamps: Sometimes it is possible to simply clamp one clamp to another, with their business (working) dogs to the outside of your work as with pipe clamps, but in the case of door clamps this is hard or impossible to do since you can not rotate the dogs of the clamps.

Once neat solution is to use a piece of scrap as a 'joiner', sandwiching it between the clamp dogs. You need at least three clamps to do this, and more are better -

See photos below:

Wood Naval architecture Composite material Gas Engineering


Wood Tree Composite material Metal Wire


Another way is by using wedges, which seems simple enough, but it is amusing to me so many people do not think of doing this, which can be adapted to almost any length or shape with a little thought. See illustration below:

Handwriting Rectangle Font Slope Parallel


A prime consideration using either of these methods is that you should also clamp your stock to a flat surface or planks to prevent it from bowing up (or down) in the middle as you apply pressure to the outer edges of the stock.

Another consideration is to make sure your clamp dogs are well padded to avoid damage to your stock. With wedges, it is imperative you use a piece of sacrificial material between your wedges and your stock. Wedges are generally used in opposing pairs and it helps to blunt the narrower ends so you can drive them back when needed. You can easily make a simple jig to cut identical wedges on the table saw if need be. About a 1 to 8 or longer taper is appropriate.
 

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#107 ·
Clamping Big Stuff

Here are some little tricks you can use when you are trying to clamp something bigger or longer than your available clamps.

'Joining' clamps: Sometimes it is possible to simply clamp one clamp to another, with their business (working) dogs to the outside of your work as with pipe clamps, but in the case of door clamps this is hard or impossible to do since you can not rotate the dogs of the clamps.

Once neat solution is to use a piece of scrap as a 'joiner', sandwiching it between the clamp dogs. You need at least three clamps to do this, and more are better -

See photos below:

Wood Naval architecture Composite material Gas Engineering


Wood Tree Composite material Metal Wire


Another way is by using wedges, which seems simple enough, but it is amusing to me so many people do not think of doing this, which can be adapted to almost any length or shape with a little thought. See illustration below:

Handwriting Rectangle Font Slope Parallel


A prime consideration using either of these methods is that you should also clamp your stock to a flat surface or planks to prevent it from bowing up (or down) in the middle as you apply pressure to the outer edges of the stock.

Another consideration is to make sure your clamp dogs are well padded to avoid damage to your stock. With wedges, it is imperative you use a piece of sacrificial material between your wedges and your stock. Wedges are generally used in opposing pairs and it helps to blunt the narrower ends so you can drive them back when needed. You can easily make a simple jig to cut identical wedges on the table saw if need be. About a 1 to 8 or longer taper is appropriate.
good idea but why not just grab the 2 tops together instead of using a board?
 

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#116 ·
MORE than you ever wanted to know about HOLES!

Don't get too excited - this isn't an article on porn or sex, but only about making holes in wood! There are times when you need a hole in wood which becomes a challenge, even with the right sort and size bit. Here's how to deal with some of the more common challenges:

1. Drilling long holes accurately:

A. By far the easiest way is by making a shallow saw kerf in the "Faying Surface"â‘ . These are then joined together by glueing or other means, with the kerfs mirroring each other, i.e., face to face. After joining, the hole is made using a spiral auger with a lead screw entering the saw kerfs. The lead screw will follow the kerf unless it encounters a knot or irregular spot. Needless to say, you must go slowly and carefully and clear the chips often. If the bit starts to bind it may mean it is getting off track. This works with brad point bits too up to a point (pardon the pun!), but these are more likely to wander since the bit is not supported on its sides its full length, which seems to be an important requirement for any tool drilling long, deep holes. Regular machinist type twist bits do not work nearly as well as augers unless the saw kerfs are quite wide.

B. Of course there are times you must drill a long, deep hole when you don't have the option of glueing two pieces together with sawn kerfs. Here, you might use a 'Barefoot Auger'; A barefoot auger is a special bit used by shipwrights and is similar to a spiral auger with no lead screw. These can drill quite long holes, but must be very carefully started in exactly the right direction. Even then, it the bit hits a knot or hard place it can change direction on you. Shipwrights often make a special 'guides' to get the bits started in the proper direction usually consisting of two pieces of wood at right angles to each other and squared at the bottom (or beveled, if the hole is to be at an angle). Other sorts of guides 'sandwich' the part to be drilled with drill guides to keep the bit centered along its length. You can make a sort of barefoot auger from an old auger by cutting off the lead screw, but it will not have the same 'foot' as a bit intended and manufactured as barefoot, and therefore will not work nearly as well.

C. Use a 'Spoon Bit' or 'Shell Auger'; A spoon bit is an ancient type still used by chair, lamp, and instrument makers to bore long holes in things like chair backs, lamps and flutes. These are usually carefully hand driven with a bit stock, or twist handle. Spoon bits today are fairly expensive. Lee Valley sells one type.② You can also make your own and here is an article which shows how in detail.③ If you find yourself making a lot of long, deep holes it would be worthwhile to explore this type of bit. Obviously, there is some skill and patience required to use these accurately.

D. There are also a number of speciality (and expensive) bits used with lathes to make long holes in gun barrels, lamps, etc. These are somewhat similar to shell bits and are called 'D' bits. Those are beyond the scope of what I am trying to present here.

And, just for giggles, I'll mention something called a 'boring bar' which boatbuilders use to drill out for propeller shafts, but these are not properly drill bits in themselves as they need a pilot hole which must first be drilled with one of the above mentioned type bits.

2. Drilling 'part of a hole':

Here are some common-sense tips for drilling 'parts' of a hole, i.e. half or other fraction of a hole's diameter at the edge of something. For example, you may need a series of half circles in the edge of a plank to hold bottle necks in a wine rack or something like that. You can use a jig saw, or band saw and try to deal with the irregular hole which results,
Or,

You can cut or drill your holes down the middle of a plank and then cut that through the holes into two equal width pieces with a saw;
Or you can,

Clamp a piece of waste material of the same thickness next to your stock, locate the center of your hole so your drill cuts away as much as you need for the partial hole in your stock. This works with augers, twist drill bits, Forstner bits, hole saws or whatever and is very accurate. See illustration and photos following:

Handwriting Rectangle Font Parallel Drawing


Wood Flooring Bicycle part Gas Musical instrument accessory


Wood Musical instrument accessory Table Audio equipment Flooring


Wood Automotive tire Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Automotive tire Cuisine Font Ingredient


Rectangle Wood Font Guitar accessory Number


If you need to make 'part holes' of longer lengths, you can use the same method at the edges of your working stock. The nice thing about this is you can produce partial holes limited only by the depth capacity of your bit or hole saw. See illustration and photos following:

Handwriting Rectangle Font Parallel Slope


Wood Floor Flooring Gas Font


Wood Rectangle Font Material property Hardwood


Links to pertinent information:
â‘  http://www.answers.com/topic/faying-surface
② http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57713&cat=1,180,42240,53317&ap=1
③ http://toolmakingart.com/2011/02/27/how-to-make-an-octagonal-handle-shell-auger-and-straight-drilling-guide/
 

Attachments

#117 ·
MORE than you ever wanted to know about HOLES!

Don't get too excited - this isn't an article on porn or sex, but only about making holes in wood! There are times when you need a hole in wood which becomes a challenge, even with the right sort and size bit. Here's how to deal with some of the more common challenges:

1. Drilling long holes accurately:

A. By far the easiest way is by making a shallow saw kerf in the "Faying Surface"â‘ . These are then joined together by glueing or other means, with the kerfs mirroring each other, i.e., face to face. After joining, the hole is made using a spiral auger with a lead screw entering the saw kerfs. The lead screw will follow the kerf unless it encounters a knot or irregular spot. Needless to say, you must go slowly and carefully and clear the chips often. If the bit starts to bind it may mean it is getting off track. This works with brad point bits too up to a point (pardon the pun!), but these are more likely to wander since the bit is not supported on its sides its full length, which seems to be an important requirement for any tool drilling long, deep holes. Regular machinist type twist bits do not work nearly as well as augers unless the saw kerfs are quite wide.

B. Of course there are times you must drill a long, deep hole when you don't have the option of glueing two pieces together with sawn kerfs. Here, you might use a 'Barefoot Auger'; A barefoot auger is a special bit used by shipwrights and is similar to a spiral auger with no lead screw. These can drill quite long holes, but must be very carefully started in exactly the right direction. Even then, it the bit hits a knot or hard place it can change direction on you. Shipwrights often make a special 'guides' to get the bits started in the proper direction usually consisting of two pieces of wood at right angles to each other and squared at the bottom (or beveled, if the hole is to be at an angle). Other sorts of guides 'sandwich' the part to be drilled with drill guides to keep the bit centered along its length. You can make a sort of barefoot auger from an old auger by cutting off the lead screw, but it will not have the same 'foot' as a bit intended and manufactured as barefoot, and therefore will not work nearly as well.

C. Use a 'Spoon Bit' or 'Shell Auger'; A spoon bit is an ancient type still used by chair, lamp, and instrument makers to bore long holes in things like chair backs, lamps and flutes. These are usually carefully hand driven with a bit stock, or twist handle. Spoon bits today are fairly expensive. Lee Valley sells one type.② You can also make your own and here is an article which shows how in detail.③ If you find yourself making a lot of long, deep holes it would be worthwhile to explore this type of bit. Obviously, there is some skill and patience required to use these accurately.

D. There are also a number of speciality (and expensive) bits used with lathes to make long holes in gun barrels, lamps, etc. These are somewhat similar to shell bits and are called 'D' bits. Those are beyond the scope of what I am trying to present here.

And, just for giggles, I'll mention something called a 'boring bar' which boatbuilders use to drill out for propeller shafts, but these are not properly drill bits in themselves as they need a pilot hole which must first be drilled with one of the above mentioned type bits.

2. Drilling 'part of a hole':

Here are some common-sense tips for drilling 'parts' of a hole, i.e. half or other fraction of a hole's diameter at the edge of something. For example, you may need a series of half circles in the edge of a plank to hold bottle necks in a wine rack or something like that. You can use a jig saw, or band saw and try to deal with the irregular hole which results,
Or,

You can cut or drill your holes down the middle of a plank and then cut that through the holes into two equal width pieces with a saw;
Or you can,

Clamp a piece of waste material of the same thickness next to your stock, locate the center of your hole so your drill cuts away as much as you need for the partial hole in your stock. This works with augers, twist drill bits, Forstner bits, hole saws or whatever and is very accurate. See illustration and photos following:

Handwriting Rectangle Font Parallel Drawing


Wood Flooring Bicycle part Gas Musical instrument accessory


Wood Musical instrument accessory Table Audio equipment Flooring


Wood Automotive tire Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Automotive tire Cuisine Font Ingredient


Rectangle Wood Font Guitar accessory Number


If you need to make 'part holes' of longer lengths, you can use the same method at the edges of your working stock. The nice thing about this is you can produce partial holes limited only by the depth capacity of your bit or hole saw. See illustration and photos following:

Handwriting Rectangle Font Parallel Slope


Wood Floor Flooring Gas Font


Wood Rectangle Font Material property Hardwood


Links to pertinent information:
â‘  http://www.answers.com/topic/faying-surface
② http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57713&cat=1,180,42240,53317&ap=1
③ http://toolmakingart.com/2011/02/27/how-to-make-an-octagonal-handle-shell-auger-and-straight-drilling-guide/
Good tips Eric.
When I saw your title it made me think of the first day I walked into North Arm Boat Works and asked if they were hiring. I had no experience except building a ferro cement hull but the boss took me out under a timbered stern he was working on and showed me the setup below. After a bit of instruction I was drilling1/2" X 3 1/2' holes, cutting and threading the rod bolts and driving them home. At the end of the day he came out to see how I was doing and when I said I'd have the last one in in ten minutes, he said "It's OK you can finish it up tomorrow." That's how I got started as a boat builder. The boat was a 50 foot seiner and the stern was an "igloo" of 4 X 12 Yellow Cedar. That man taught me more in two years than I've learned in any ten years since.

Font Slope Rectangle Parallel Diagram
 

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#126 ·
Making Long, Round Things in Wood - with the Norwegian Dowel Cutter

Sometimes you need long round parts made from wood. Prior to the 19th century, specially made wooden dowels often served where nails, screws and bolts are used today. For instance, in barn building and shipbuilding, 'trunnels' were used to fasten timbers together and planks to a ships ribs. Outside of lacking the strength of of metal, trunnels are not affected by electrolysis and do not rust, important considerations in ships - although of course they can eventually rot. The word 'trunnel' comes from a corruption of the words 'trenail' or 'tree nail'. Who'd a-thunk?

Today if you need long round things made from wood the first recourse is usually a lathe - but lathes are often not available and all lathes have their limitations. Here I will try to present a way to show how to make long, round wooden things without a lathe, quicker than with a lathe, more accurately than a lathe can do, and longer than most lathes can do. Tall order, right?

Not really, since almost anyone can easily make a 'Norwegian dowel cutter' - also known by other names. Just an aside here: There is a complete genre of ethnic jokes similar to 'Polish' jokes, except they are about Norwegians. I feel entitled to make such jokes since my father immigrated from Norway as a young man and I am half Norwegian. On the other hand, my father often said to me back when I was a teenager, "Son, you are half Norwegian, and the other half a complete sh*ta$$!" I'm still not sure exactly what he meant by that. Anyway, back to the Norwegian dowel cutter.

This is an easily made tool, similar in operation to a big pencil sharpener except the 'pencil' rotates instead of the sharpener. The following pictures explain things pretty well I think. This tool consists of a wooden 'die' of hardwood, bored through the same diameter of the dowel or rod you wish to make - or a bit over:

Wood Table Tool Hand tool Scratch awl


A. A custom cutter is made from a suitable piece of steel, configured to fit the die. This tool is a bit like the tenon cutters you can buy, except this one is not limited as to depth - you can make dowels or any length you have the stock for. You can make this apparatus in an hour or so, for any diameter rod or dowel you wish to make, up to about 3" or so. It is good to make a tang on the die to aid in clamping to your workbench - see pictures. Note that the cutter has a beveled starter side to accept stock that is not round;

Tire Wheel Crankset Automotive tire Gear


B. The cutter can be made from any piece of suitable hardened steel. I Often use an old saw blade or something similar. Cutting this hardened material is easy with a small hand grinder equipped with a cut-off disc. The working edges are keenly sharpened, and the cutter affixed to the die as shown. Note the scores made with a grinder on the back side of the cutter to help keep it clamped tightly in position in operation.

Circuit component Household hardware Font Wood Metal


Wood Rectangle Table Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Font Auto part Aluminium Metal


Tableware Wood Rectangle Kitchen utensil Hardwood


C. Square your stock about 1/8" over, then eight-side (see http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33328. The eight-siding can be quickly done by hand or power plane, jointer, or even a planer equipped with a suitable jig.

D. Since the stock must rotate thru the die and cutter, you must spin it. You can do this by hand (very laborious!), or far better, use a drill motor equipped with a 'Norwegian Nut driver'. See photos. This driver is self-explanatory and works great. The 'socket' should be made of hardwood, of sufficient thickness to allow about a 1" deep socket, plus enough material to accept a 3/8" or 1/2" carriage bolt. (Need I say here it is always good to work from 'the center out' by drilling the hole for your bolt first, then make the socket, then cut the outside edge?) The bolt must be double-nutted on the driver side since clockwise rotation will tend to loosen a single nut. But of course I guess you could always run things in reverse . . . . hmm. A note here about the size of the nut driver; if you want to make more than one size of rod, it is good to settle on a single size for your driver - like a 1" square. Your working stock can then be squared on the driven end to a common size for your driver.

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Wood Household hardware Font Auto part Metal


Wood Hardwood Font Fastener Auto part


Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


E. In operation, the stock is turned through the die and cutter apparatus. The cutter is adjusted to just a tiny fraction less than the hole diameter of the die. You should experiment a little to get everything adjusted just so. Once set, you will be amazed at how quickly and accurately this little set up can make rods for you. Hardwood is the best material for making rods and dowels, but with a properly sharpened cutter, you can do softwood rods almost as well - these pictures show making a dowel of soft pine.

This apparatus can also be used with a lathe, by starting it on one end of your stock before it is chucked into the lathe. With the lathe running at a slow speed, the die and cutter is simply held firmly and run down the length of your stock - giving you a consistent diameter the full length without calipers. If you use a lathe, try clamping your cutter to a longer piece of material for better control. It goes without saying you should always work slowly and deliberately, so as not to ruin material, and more importantly, hurt yourself or someone else!

I hope you find this useful . .
 

Attachments

#127 ·
Making Long, Round Things in Wood - with the Norwegian Dowel Cutter

Sometimes you need long round parts made from wood. Prior to the 19th century, specially made wooden dowels often served where nails, screws and bolts are used today. For instance, in barn building and shipbuilding, 'trunnels' were used to fasten timbers together and planks to a ships ribs. Outside of lacking the strength of of metal, trunnels are not affected by electrolysis and do not rust, important considerations in ships - although of course they can eventually rot. The word 'trunnel' comes from a corruption of the words 'trenail' or 'tree nail'. Who'd a-thunk?

Today if you need long round things made from wood the first recourse is usually a lathe - but lathes are often not available and all lathes have their limitations. Here I will try to present a way to show how to make long, round wooden things without a lathe, quicker than with a lathe, more accurately than a lathe can do, and longer than most lathes can do. Tall order, right?

Not really, since almost anyone can easily make a 'Norwegian dowel cutter' - also known by other names. Just an aside here: There is a complete genre of ethnic jokes similar to 'Polish' jokes, except they are about Norwegians. I feel entitled to make such jokes since my father immigrated from Norway as a young man and I am half Norwegian. On the other hand, my father often said to me back when I was a teenager, "Son, you are half Norwegian, and the other half a complete sh*ta$$!" I'm still not sure exactly what he meant by that. Anyway, back to the Norwegian dowel cutter.

This is an easily made tool, similar in operation to a big pencil sharpener except the 'pencil' rotates instead of the sharpener. The following pictures explain things pretty well I think. This tool consists of a wooden 'die' of hardwood, bored through the same diameter of the dowel or rod you wish to make - or a bit over:

Wood Table Tool Hand tool Scratch awl


A. A custom cutter is made from a suitable piece of steel, configured to fit the die. This tool is a bit like the tenon cutters you can buy, except this one is not limited as to depth - you can make dowels or any length you have the stock for. You can make this apparatus in an hour or so, for any diameter rod or dowel you wish to make, up to about 3" or so. It is good to make a tang on the die to aid in clamping to your workbench - see pictures. Note that the cutter has a beveled starter side to accept stock that is not round;

Tire Wheel Crankset Automotive tire Gear


B. The cutter can be made from any piece of suitable hardened steel. I Often use an old saw blade or something similar. Cutting this hardened material is easy with a small hand grinder equipped with a cut-off disc. The working edges are keenly sharpened, and the cutter affixed to the die as shown. Note the scores made with a grinder on the back side of the cutter to help keep it clamped tightly in position in operation.

Circuit component Household hardware Font Wood Metal


Wood Rectangle Table Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Font Auto part Aluminium Metal


Tableware Wood Rectangle Kitchen utensil Hardwood


C. Square your stock about 1/8" over, then eight-side (see http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33328. The eight-siding can be quickly done by hand or power plane, jointer, or even a planer equipped with a suitable jig.

D. Since the stock must rotate thru the die and cutter, you must spin it. You can do this by hand (very laborious!), or far better, use a drill motor equipped with a 'Norwegian Nut driver'. See photos. This driver is self-explanatory and works great. The 'socket' should be made of hardwood, of sufficient thickness to allow about a 1" deep socket, plus enough material to accept a 3/8" or 1/2" carriage bolt. (Need I say here it is always good to work from 'the center out' by drilling the hole for your bolt first, then make the socket, then cut the outside edge?) The bolt must be double-nutted on the driver side since clockwise rotation will tend to loosen a single nut. But of course I guess you could always run things in reverse . . . . hmm. A note here about the size of the nut driver; if you want to make more than one size of rod, it is good to settle on a single size for your driver - like a 1" square. Your working stock can then be squared on the driven end to a common size for your driver.

Automotive tire Gas Wood Tire Auto part


Wood Household hardware Font Auto part Metal


Wood Hardwood Font Fastener Auto part


Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Plank


E. In operation, the stock is turned through the die and cutter apparatus. The cutter is adjusted to just a tiny fraction less than the hole diameter of the die. You should experiment a little to get everything adjusted just so. Once set, you will be amazed at how quickly and accurately this little set up can make rods for you. Hardwood is the best material for making rods and dowels, but with a properly sharpened cutter, you can do softwood rods almost as well - these pictures show making a dowel of soft pine.

This apparatus can also be used with a lathe, by starting it on one end of your stock before it is chucked into the lathe. With the lathe running at a slow speed, the die and cutter is simply held firmly and run down the length of your stock - giving you a consistent diameter the full length without calipers. If you use a lathe, try clamping your cutter to a longer piece of material for better control. It goes without saying you should always work slowly and deliberately, so as not to ruin material, and more importantly, hurt yourself or someone else!

I hope you find this useful . .
love your tips ,you have a vast knowledge of this craft thanks for sharing it , it may just be my end but the link http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/33328)
want work when i tried it on your blog section but dose on my comment post anyways thanks
 

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#132 ·
Duplicating Parts in Wood and Smoothing Curves

Let's say you need to made two, three or even four parts in wood, all precisely the same size and shape. It is straightforward and fairly easy to make your parts if they are all rectangular and can be done on the table saw. But, what if they are curved or irregular in shape, and you only need a few? The following technique may seem elementary, but it is surprising how many people aren't familiar with this idea. Simply put, this is as easy as making two or more parts at once, in one setup, then separating them apart into component pieces.

Here's how it is done:

1. Mill out enough stock for your several pieces to the proper thickness, making sure there is enough stock of proper width and length to make all pieces;

2. Rough cut your stock to width and length. From here there are two approaches;

a. Using a pattern made for your stock, rough cut each piece to shape about 1/8" over all around (easier, takes a little longer);

b. Proceed without rough cutting to size (faster, easier to keep squared, so long as your saw blade is perfectly square to the table);

3. Glue all your parts together in a stack as follows:

a. Use a glue thinned down about 1:1 with glue and thinner. If using white glue, water is a thinner. I use something called 'School Glue' which is made for school art projects and is cheap and easy to get;

b. Apply a coating of thinned glue to one part, then a layer of newspaper, more glue, the next part, and so on. Make sure there is a layer of newspaper or other thin paper between each part, and each part is accurately aligned with its neighbor. Clamp all together tightly and allow the glue to set.

3. When the glue has set, all the parts may be worked and shaped â‘  as one piece, making sure to use your square to keep all edges squared to the side face of the work. The thinned glue will hold everything together nicely until you are satisfied;

4. When the shaping is done, gently separate each piece from its neighbor with a chisel or screwdriver. I usually leave a little extra material at the ends for this purpose, which is trimmed off later. The pieces will separate within the paper, leaving a paper/glue residue on the matching surfaces. This will easily sand off, leaving you with perfectly matched parts!

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Another way sometimes used for making two pieces only is not quite as easy, although it is the same idea. This is to use stock sufficient in thickness to allow for the finished thickness of both parts, plus an allowance for finish planing. After shaping, this is then resawn through the middle and each piece planed back to the desired finish thickness. This is often done in boatbuilding when planking a wooden boat. A plank made for one side should exactly match one in the same place on the opposite side as closely as possible, so they are sometimes made this way, then beveled after they are sawn apart and planed to the finish thickness.

If you are in production work making many identical parts, you likely are already familiar with making a pattern for each part for a router/shaper to follow.

â‘  A note here about making your curves smooth. The eye is a curious and easily fooled organ, and can easily mislead your senses. Color or texture changes in your material can make you think there is a bump, or that a curve is smooth when it is not.

One sure way to check the smoothness of a curve is with a bendy straightedge or piece of wood made for the purpose. Boatbuilders call the tool they use to check curves a 'Fairing Batten'. This is made from a straight-grained wood like pine, and usually square or rectangular in section, and bendy enough to make the curve without breaking. But, any bendy straightedge or other material works just as well for short curves so long as it has no 'hard' spots.

This batten or straightedge is laid on the curve in question and tacked or clamped in position. Any deviation in the smoothness of the curvature will immediately show up as a high or low spot, and then can be worked down to get your nice, smooth curve. The pictures below explain things pretty well I think.

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The particular pieces in these photographs with the fairing batten are intended as rockers for a rocking chair, so I am being extra careful to make the curves nice and smooth. Bumpy rockers on a rocking chair can be disconcerting and irritating for anyone except maybe a six-year-old to ten-year-old child!
 

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#133 ·
Duplicating Parts in Wood and Smoothing Curves

Let's say you need to made two, three or even four parts in wood, all precisely the same size and shape. It is straightforward and fairly easy to make your parts if they are all rectangular and can be done on the table saw. But, what if they are curved or irregular in shape, and you only need a few? The following technique may seem elementary, but it is surprising how many people aren't familiar with this idea. Simply put, this is as easy as making two or more parts at once, in one setup, then separating them apart into component pieces.

Here's how it is done:

1. Mill out enough stock for your several pieces to the proper thickness, making sure there is enough stock of proper width and length to make all pieces;

2. Rough cut your stock to width and length. From here there are two approaches;

a. Using a pattern made for your stock, rough cut each piece to shape about 1/8" over all around (easier, takes a little longer);

b. Proceed without rough cutting to size (faster, easier to keep squared, so long as your saw blade is perfectly square to the table);

3. Glue all your parts together in a stack as follows:

a. Use a glue thinned down about 1:1 with glue and thinner. If using white glue, water is a thinner. I use something called 'School Glue' which is made for school art projects and is cheap and easy to get;

b. Apply a coating of thinned glue to one part, then a layer of newspaper, more glue, the next part, and so on. Make sure there is a layer of newspaper or other thin paper between each part, and each part is accurately aligned with its neighbor. Clamp all together tightly and allow the glue to set.

3. When the glue has set, all the parts may be worked and shaped â‘  as one piece, making sure to use your square to keep all edges squared to the side face of the work. The thinned glue will hold everything together nicely until you are satisfied;

4. When the shaping is done, gently separate each piece from its neighbor with a chisel or screwdriver. I usually leave a little extra material at the ends for this purpose, which is trimmed off later. The pieces will separate within the paper, leaving a paper/glue residue on the matching surfaces. This will easily sand off, leaving you with perfectly matched parts!

Wood Hardwood Wood stain Human leg Font


Brown Musical instrument Wood Musical instrument accessory Wood stain


Automotive tire Wood Automotive exterior Bumper Hardwood


Furniture Chair Wood Wood stain Folding chair


Musical instrument String instrument Plant Wood String instrument


Furniture Chair Wood Knee Hardwood


Another way sometimes used for making two pieces only is not quite as easy, although it is the same idea. This is to use stock sufficient in thickness to allow for the finished thickness of both parts, plus an allowance for finish planing. After shaping, this is then resawn through the middle and each piece planed back to the desired finish thickness. This is often done in boatbuilding when planking a wooden boat. A plank made for one side should exactly match one in the same place on the opposite side as closely as possible, so they are sometimes made this way, then beveled after they are sawn apart and planed to the finish thickness.

If you are in production work making many identical parts, you likely are already familiar with making a pattern for each part for a router/shaper to follow.

â‘  A note here about making your curves smooth. The eye is a curious and easily fooled organ, and can easily mislead your senses. Color or texture changes in your material can make you think there is a bump, or that a curve is smooth when it is not.

One sure way to check the smoothness of a curve is with a bendy straightedge or piece of wood made for the purpose. Boatbuilders call the tool they use to check curves a 'Fairing Batten'. This is made from a straight-grained wood like pine, and usually square or rectangular in section, and bendy enough to make the curve without breaking. But, any bendy straightedge or other material works just as well for short curves so long as it has no 'hard' spots.

This batten or straightedge is laid on the curve in question and tacked or clamped in position. Any deviation in the smoothness of the curvature will immediately show up as a high or low spot, and then can be worked down to get your nice, smooth curve. The pictures below explain things pretty well I think.

Wood Font Wood stain Hardwood Wire


Tire Bicycle tire Wood Automotive tire Bicycle part


Rectangle Wood Floor Flooring Font


The particular pieces in these photographs with the fairing batten are intended as rockers for a rocking chair, so I am being extra careful to make the curves nice and smooth. Bumpy rockers on a rocking chair can be disconcerting and irritating for anyone except maybe a six-year-old to ten-year-old child!
I like the fairing batten idea especially. Good thoughts, thanks for sharing them.
 

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