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#1 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
 

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#2 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Thanks Paul all knowledge is good knowledge & you have plenty to share
Best
Trevor
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Paul,
I am following your marquetry posts with great interest. Many thanks for sharing the information.
Roger
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
wow! that is awesome
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Paul,

Your blogs are always so informative. There are so many good details that we can pretend that we did it! (When we don't have your talent, we have to live vicariously!)

Thanks for helping us better understand the various methods.

L/W
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Nicely and clearly explained Paul. Good stuff.
 

Attachments

#7 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Thank you Paul.
 

Attachments

#8 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Thanks Paul.

Although I have red and red, you illustrations ties all of this together.

great blog. I am hoping there will be more.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Paul, Very informative and it had cleared my mind now why it is necessary to cut in an angle. Thanks.
 

Attachments

#10 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Thanks Paul,
You are a well of knowledge, and knowledge is good.

Steve
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Great explanation. I remember trying that when I first got my scroll saw. It got real difficult for me once the shape got complex. I had to get out of the habit of wanting to cut everything straight and not perpendicular to the blade.

Thanks
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Great tutorial, Paul. As usual, your pictures and explanations make the complex appear simple.
As I so well know, the execution is another story entirely!
Looking forward to the next installment.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.



Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.



With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.



Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.



When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.



Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Thanks for the comments. I noticed soon after I started writing this blog that describing double bevel marquetry is a lot harder than doing it. Boulle and classic aren't going to be any easier.
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
shipwright - This might help. A picture is worth 1000 words.

Font Parallel Symmetry Rectangle Diagram
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Good one Gary. I've got the photo upload figured out but aside from photographing sketches, I haven't got the graphic upload figured out yet.

Thanks for the help.
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
That was just a quick autocad drawing I whipped up and printed to a jpg file, so it wasn't any different than a picture upload.
 

Attachments

#17 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
My autocad has an eraser on one end.
Thanks.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
Double Bevel or Conical Style

When I posted the clipper ship marquetry for my Canadian chevalet, there was some confusion about the different styles of cutting marquetry and the terminology conected thereto. I will try here, using examples from some of my work, to clear up the confusion.

First of all, let me say that these are all methods for sawing marquetry. Knife methods are not something I have much experience with and while they have similarities I won't include knife cutting here.

Double Bevel Marquetry refers to the style wherin two adjacent elements are placed one above the other and sawn on a bevel. The bevel is calculated to permit the upper piece, when the offcuts have been removed, to drop into the bottom layer to match bevel face to bevel face with no kerf. This might be a simple shape cut from a background, where the piece drops into the hole left in the field, but in more complex pieces it becomes a "piece by piece" build up of many elements.

In the first photo, the elements of a maple leaf have already been double bevel cut to make the composite leaf blank. They have been layed out on top of the bubinga pieces that will be the field. The margins of the leaf have not been cut.

Brown Wood Flooring Floor Tile flooring


Here the pattern, in this case a photo, has been superimposed over the wood elements.

Brown Wood Art Creative arts Flooring


With the saw set at about eight degrees (for this thickness of veneer) the pattern is cut on the centre piece.

Wood Flooring Gas Tints and shades Rectangle


Here the leaf has been "dropped" into the bubinga background with no kerf and a perfect fit because both pieces were cut at the same time. The piece on the right is the discarded part of the field piece. Think of it as all bubinga. I just didn't want to waste it so I made the field piece out of maple and cut bubinga in where it would be needed.

Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Floor


When you finish up a double bevel piece, you have one only motif with no kerf lines and perfect fits. It has a lot to recommend it.

Brown Leaf Wood Flooring Tile flooring


Thanks for looking.

Next time Boulle style

Paul
Great blog on marquetry. Lots of valuable info. Look forward to your next segments.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Boulle Style

This style is named for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
Also in both these styles cutting is done in a "packet" of veneers rather than piece by piece as is done in double bevel. This results in several pieces of identical shape on each cut.

In Boulle style marquetry a packet is assembled with one layer in each of the colors that will appear in the finished motif.

Wood Rectangle Material property Font Flooring


The pattern is affixed to the top of the packet and the cutting is performed at 90 degrees resulting in one piece in each color, of each shape..

Wood Gesture Art Tree Floor


Wood Rectangle Font Flooring Hardwood


The primary motif is assembled in it's field veneer, which was one of the layers in the packet. At this point it will appear backwards because it is always assembled glue side up and is held together by veneer tape or a backing paper on the good side.

Bird Wood Font Rectangle Hardwood


After the first motif is assembled there will be enough pieces left over to make as many more motifs as you used layers. This is not always a very useful set of parts. In motifs like the albatross here, you'll only get one that looks real. The others may not resemble anything to be found in nature.

Bird Beak Wood Art Wing


On the other hand if you are doing a geometric pattern or a graphic, both or all may be useful. It was common in the eighteenth century to make a "contre-parte" piece with the negative pattern. That is why you sometimes see pictures of two tables, for example, that are almost identical but one is dark on light and the other is light on dark.

Insect Vertebrate Pollinator Sleeve Wood


Boulle style cutting almost always means that you will have a saw kerf, but with the extremely small jewelers' blades used for this work and the judicious use of a little appropriately colored putty, they are very easy to hide. I say almost because in some motifs, particularly geometrics, it is possible to "compress" the pieces. In this case however the field piece, if there is one, must be cut separately.

Bird Blue Wood Rectangle Feather


That's it for Boulle style. This has not been nor was it meant to be a definitive "how to" on the style, just a description to distinguish it from the others.

Thanks for looking in.

Next time the Classic style, where you really have to be good.

Paul
 

Attachments

#20 ·
Boulle Style

This style is named for one of the great masters, Andre-Charles Boulle (1642-1732) and it differs from double bevel style in several ways.
In both Boulle style and Classic style, which I'll cover next, it is imperative that the blade is at exactly 90 degrees to the work, both vertically and horizontally.
Also in both these styles cutting is done in a "packet" of veneers rather than piece by piece as is done in double bevel. This results in several pieces of identical shape on each cut.

In Boulle style marquetry a packet is assembled with one layer in each of the colors that will appear in the finished motif.

Wood Rectangle Material property Font Flooring


The pattern is affixed to the top of the packet and the cutting is performed at 90 degrees resulting in one piece in each color, of each shape..

Wood Gesture Art Tree Floor


Wood Rectangle Font Flooring Hardwood


The primary motif is assembled in it's field veneer, which was one of the layers in the packet. At this point it will appear backwards because it is always assembled glue side up and is held together by veneer tape or a backing paper on the good side.

Bird Wood Font Rectangle Hardwood


After the first motif is assembled there will be enough pieces left over to make as many more motifs as you used layers. This is not always a very useful set of parts. In motifs like the albatross here, you'll only get one that looks real. The others may not resemble anything to be found in nature.

Bird Beak Wood Art Wing


On the other hand if you are doing a geometric pattern or a graphic, both or all may be useful. It was common in the eighteenth century to make a "contre-parte" piece with the negative pattern. That is why you sometimes see pictures of two tables, for example, that are almost identical but one is dark on light and the other is light on dark.

Insect Vertebrate Pollinator Sleeve Wood


Boulle style cutting almost always means that you will have a saw kerf, but with the extremely small jewelers' blades used for this work and the judicious use of a little appropriately colored putty, they are very easy to hide. I say almost because in some motifs, particularly geometrics, it is possible to "compress" the pieces. In this case however the field piece, if there is one, must be cut separately.

Bird Blue Wood Rectangle Feather


That's it for Boulle style. This has not been nor was it meant to be a definitive "how to" on the style, just a description to distinguish it from the others.

Thanks for looking in.

Next time the Classic style, where you really have to be good.

Paul
Impressive. I like it. Very nicely done.
 

Attachments

#36 ·
Classic Style

The Classic Style is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.

The first step as in other styles is to produce a drawing segmented into the pieces you want to cut. I did this one from a photo. The various segments are numbered to indicate the veneer used for that piece.

Leaf Wood Art Font Pattern


In Classic Style the next step is to assemble packets, in my case here, of six layers of one veneer. This is a packet of shop cut Holly. It has been fastened with marquetry pins and it's edges have been taped to further compact it. A segment of the drawing which includes several holly parts has been attached to it with spray glue.

Office ruler Wood Rectangle Ruler Beige


When one of the elements is cut, again with the saw blade at exactly 90 degrees, six identical elements are produced.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Plywood


Brown Wood Art Font Handwriting


The other packets are cut one by one until all the elements are cut and ready to assemble.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


Brown Rectangle Wood Art Font


This photo shows the difference between the results of the Boulle cut motif in the last blog entry and this one cut in Classic Style. The pros for Classic Style are obvious. The big con is simply that as each piece is separately cut, the perfect fits guaranteed by the other styles are no longer a given. In theory anyway, in Classic Style, you cut the outside half of the line on the internal part and the inside half of the line when cutting the field. IF you can do this, you get another pro in that unlike the Boulle Style there will be no saw kerf. This was my first try and I can tell you that it is not easy. I have lots of gaps…..but I learned something and I will improve.

Wood Creative arts Art Font Plant


I have used one other method of cutting marquetry using a router and an inlay bushing set. It is detailed here: http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/18834 It too has it's advantages, particularly for very large projects and in places where the pattern facilitates repetitive cuts.

All these methods and the knife methods (See Dennis Zongker's blog: http://lumberjocks.com/DennisLeeZongker/blog/23802 ) have their advantages and disadvantages. They can be used alone or in conjunction with each other. It all works.

Edit: I've added another segment,"Painting in Wood" style following in the another segment of the blog.

I hope that this has cleared up some of the terminology confusion around marquetry styles .

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
 

Attachments

#37 ·
Classic Style

The Classic Style is the most difficult of the saw cut styles to master. It involves cutting each piece separately, from packets of veneer, each composed of only one color or species. It's considerable advantage is that it can produce as many identical motifs as the number of layers in your packets. This can reduce the labor and increase the speed of production of pieces with repetitive motifs or enable the production of several identical pieces.

The first step as in other styles is to produce a drawing segmented into the pieces you want to cut. I did this one from a photo. The various segments are numbered to indicate the veneer used for that piece.

Leaf Wood Art Font Pattern


In Classic Style the next step is to assemble packets, in my case here, of six layers of one veneer. This is a packet of shop cut Holly. It has been fastened with marquetry pins and it's edges have been taped to further compact it. A segment of the drawing which includes several holly parts has been attached to it with spray glue.

Office ruler Wood Rectangle Ruler Beige


When one of the elements is cut, again with the saw blade at exactly 90 degrees, six identical elements are produced.

Wood Flooring Hardwood Wood stain Plywood


Brown Wood Art Font Handwriting


The other packets are cut one by one until all the elements are cut and ready to assemble.

Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Auto part


Brown Rectangle Wood Art Font


This photo shows the difference between the results of the Boulle cut motif in the last blog entry and this one cut in Classic Style. The pros for Classic Style are obvious. The big con is simply that as each piece is separately cut, the perfect fits guaranteed by the other styles are no longer a given. In theory anyway, in Classic Style, you cut the outside half of the line on the internal part and the inside half of the line when cutting the field. IF you can do this, you get another pro in that unlike the Boulle Style there will be no saw kerf. This was my first try and I can tell you that it is not easy. I have lots of gaps…..but I learned something and I will improve.

Wood Creative arts Art Font Plant


I have used one other method of cutting marquetry using a router and an inlay bushing set. It is detailed here: http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/18834 It too has it's advantages, particularly for very large projects and in places where the pattern facilitates repetitive cuts.

All these methods and the knife methods (See Dennis Zongker's blog: http://lumberjocks.com/DennisLeeZongker/blog/23802 ) have their advantages and disadvantages. They can be used alone or in conjunction with each other. It all works.

Edit: I've added another segment,"Painting in Wood" style following in the another segment of the blog.

I hope that this has cleared up some of the terminology confusion around marquetry styles .

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
Thank you for taking the time to do this Paul, it has helped my understanding no end.
 

Attachments

#53 ·
"Painting in Wood"

At last I have photos to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.

The "Painting in Wood" style of marquetry cutting dates to early 17th century France and gets its name from the relationship of the typical subject material to the work of the painters of the period. The brightly colored baskets of fruit and flowers typical of many pieces of this period are examples of this style.

In terms of actual cutting, painting in wood is similar to Boulle style in that all colors are stack cut at one time together with the background. The difference is found in the way the packet is assembled and the product that is ultimately created.

In Boulle style you may remember, the packet was assembled of full sheets of each color and the result was several similar motifs with "mix and match" colored elements. This was an efficient use of veneer if the product was to be a geometric or graphic pattern where colors were not critical. Often both the positive and negative motifs were used and no waste at all was left over.

Insect Vertebrate Pollinator Sleeve Wood


However if the subject matter was color critical as in an object from nature like a plant, flower or animal the Boulle style would produce a lot of waste veneer.

Bird Beak Wood Art Wing


As the typical motifs found in painting in wood pieces are both color critical and often quite large, a more material economical method of packet assembly was needed. The answer was to make the packet layers out of pieced together bits of the required veneers and to fill the unused spaces with a cheap waste veneer, often softwood. Pictures will describe this better than words. I apologize for my picture taking sequence here. I didn't think to photograph the layers until after the cutting was done but they will show the process just as well.

The following are the six layers I used to cut this motif. It is a very tricky process to make sure you have all the colors you want, where you want them, somewhere on one of the layers. I'm very new at this style and I'm sure a more experienced marquetreur would be more efficient but I think you will get the idea.

Brown Wood Creative arts Art Tints and shades


This photo shows an area of Bloodwood, some Amaranth (Purpleheart) and three small areas of dyed black. The "waste" veneer on all layers is some paper backed Walnut that I have a quite a bit of lying around.

Plant Wood Paint Art Flooring


The second shows the dyed yellow that will be the flowers and the Poplar that will be the sash and the bow.

Wood Creative arts Art Paint Pattern


This one has the dyed green for the leaves and some more black.

Brown Wood Creative arts Art Flooring


The last of the black

Brown Leaf Wood Textile Creative arts


The Mahogany for the flutes

Brown White Wood Architecture Art


And finally the Birdseye Maple for the ground.

When the cutting is finished, there remains only one motif but with much less waste than if the layers had been solid sheets of each required veneer species. Please excuse this last photo. The pieces are just placed together and some are a bit curled.

Plant Paint Wood Organism Creative arts


That's one more covered. Thanks for looking.

As always comments, critiques and questions are encouraged.

Paul
 

Attachments

#54 ·
"Painting in Wood"

At last I have photos to describe one more saw cutting marquetry style. I'm new to this one and didn't feel up to trying to describe it without good photos.

The "Painting in Wood" style of marquetry cutting dates to early 17th century France and gets its name from the relationship of the typical subject material to the work of the painters of the period. The brightly colored baskets of fruit and flowers typical of many pieces of this period are examples of this style.

In terms of actual cutting, painting in wood is similar to Boulle style in that all colors are stack cut at one time together with the background. The difference is found in the way the packet is assembled and the product that is ultimately created.

In Boulle style you may remember, the packet was assembled of full sheets of each color and the result was several similar motifs with "mix and match" colored elements. This was an efficient use of veneer if the product was to be a geometric or graphic pattern where colors were not critical. Often both the positive and negative motifs were used and no waste at all was left over.

Insect Vertebrate Pollinator Sleeve Wood


However if the subject matter was color critical as in an object from nature like a plant, flower or animal the Boulle style would produce a lot of waste veneer.

Bird Beak Wood Art Wing


As the typical motifs found in painting in wood pieces are both color critical and often quite large, a more material economical method of packet assembly was needed. The answer was to make the packet layers out of pieced together bits of the required veneers and to fill the unused spaces with a cheap waste veneer, often softwood. Pictures will describe this better than words. I apologize for my picture taking sequence here. I didn't think to photograph the layers until after the cutting was done but they will show the process just as well.

The following are the six layers I used to cut this motif. It is a very tricky process to make sure you have all the colors you want, where you want them, somewhere on one of the layers. I'm very new at this style and I'm sure a more experienced marquetreur would be more efficient but I think you will get the idea.

Brown Wood Creative arts Art Tints and shades


This photo shows an area of Bloodwood, some Amaranth (Purpleheart) and three small areas of dyed black. The "waste" veneer on all layers is some paper backed Walnut that I have a quite a bit of lying around.

Plant Wood Paint Art Flooring


The second shows the dyed yellow that will be the flowers and the Poplar that will be the sash and the bow.

Wood Creative arts Art Paint Pattern


This one has the dyed green for the leaves and some more black.

Brown Wood Creative arts Art Flooring


The last of the black

Brown Leaf Wood Textile Creative arts


The Mahogany for the flutes

Brown White Wood Architecture Art


And finally the Birdseye Maple for the ground.

When the cutting is finished, there remains only one motif but with much less waste than if the layers had been solid sheets of each required veneer species. Please excuse this last photo. The pieces are just placed together and some are a bit curled.

Plant Paint Wood Organism Creative arts


That's one more covered. Thanks for looking.

As always comments, critiques and questions are encouraged.

Paul
I've said it before, I'll say it again. I am so amazed by your talent. I wish I could learn to do what you do so very well. Thanks for giving some further insight to the world of marquetry
 

Attachments

#81 ·
Conical Cutting on the Chevalet

In the segment on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.

This is accomplished by replacing the sacrificial jaw parts with new pieces cut at the desired angle. Obviously this has limitations in the area of veneer thickness. As the veneer becomes thinner, the angle becomes steeper and you can only go so far without the body of the chevalet getting in the way. The experiment here was done with 1/16" veneer so the angle wasn't too steep.

Wood Stairs Floor Flooring Hardwood


Like square cutting a small adjustment can be made using the adjusters on the carriage.

Wood Chair Hardwood Stairs Wood stain


Cutting is set up the same as for the scrollsaw and is cut on the chevalet as any other chevalet piece except that the usual stiff packet cannot be employed. That creates problems that in my opinion negate any advantages that the reduced kerf might offer.

Wood Art Paint Floor Flooring


This is the result of the experiment. The kerfs are gone but the final effect is no better IMHO and the process took longer. For anyone who read my Chickadee Tray post, this was the first iteration of the motif. My wife, for whom it was being made thought the background was too busy and neither of us could live with the "cartoon" chickadees. I copied them from a Christmas card and they'd be fine in a cartoon scene, but they just plain didn't work here. This one will languish on a shelf in the marquetry shop until I throw it out…. Oh well.

Brown Bird Wood Art Rectangle


That's it for now, Thanks for looking.

Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome.

Paul
 

Attachments

#82 ·
Conical Cutting on the Chevalet

In the segment on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.

This is accomplished by replacing the sacrificial jaw parts with new pieces cut at the desired angle. Obviously this has limitations in the area of veneer thickness. As the veneer becomes thinner, the angle becomes steeper and you can only go so far without the body of the chevalet getting in the way. The experiment here was done with 1/16" veneer so the angle wasn't too steep.

Wood Stairs Floor Flooring Hardwood


Like square cutting a small adjustment can be made using the adjusters on the carriage.

Wood Chair Hardwood Stairs Wood stain


Cutting is set up the same as for the scrollsaw and is cut on the chevalet as any other chevalet piece except that the usual stiff packet cannot be employed. That creates problems that in my opinion negate any advantages that the reduced kerf might offer.

Wood Art Paint Floor Flooring


This is the result of the experiment. The kerfs are gone but the final effect is no better IMHO and the process took longer. For anyone who read my Chickadee Tray post, this was the first iteration of the motif. My wife, for whom it was being made thought the background was too busy and neither of us could live with the "cartoon" chickadees. I copied them from a Christmas card and they'd be fine in a cartoon scene, but they just plain didn't work here. This one will languish on a shelf in the marquetry shop until I throw it out…. Oh well.

Brown Bird Wood Art Rectangle


That's it for now, Thanks for looking.

Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome.

Paul
Paul your work is great and to take the time to share what you know in a blog is a wonderful gift to give to others.
Merry Christmas to you and yours.
 

Attachments

#92 ·
Conical Cutting on the Chevalet

In the segment on conical or double bevel cutting, I was using the scrollsaw as it was before my discovery of the chevalet. Since I built my first chevalet I have concentrated on packet cutting where the blade angle is always exactly 90 degrees. While the tool was originally developed and is best suited to this square cutting, it can accommodate conical style.

This is accomplished by replacing the sacrificial jaw parts with new pieces cut at the desired angle. Obviously this has limitations in the area of veneer thickness. As the veneer becomes thinner, the angle becomes steeper and you can only go so far without the body of the chevalet getting in the way. The experiment here was done with 1/16" veneer so the angle wasn't too steep.

Wood Stairs Floor Flooring Hardwood


Like square cutting a small adjustment can be made using the adjusters on the carriage.

Wood Chair Hardwood Stairs Wood stain


Cutting is set up the same as for the scrollsaw and is cut on the chevalet as any other chevalet piece except that the usual stiff packet cannot be employed. That creates problems that in my opinion negate any advantages that the reduced kerf might offer.

Wood Art Paint Floor Flooring


This is the result of the experiment. The kerfs are gone but the final effect is no better IMHO and the process took longer. For anyone who read my Chickadee Tray post, this was the first iteration of the motif. My wife, for whom it was being made thought the background was too busy and neither of us could live with the "cartoon" chickadees. I copied them from a Christmas card and they'd be fine in a cartoon scene, but they just plain didn't work here. This one will languish on a shelf in the marquetry shop until I throw it out…. Oh well.

Brown Bird Wood Art Rectangle


That's it for now, Thanks for looking.

Questions, comments and critiques are always welcome.

Paul
Merry Christmas all.

Excellent work as usual.

Paul, I understand, once the vertical and horizontal adjustments are good you don't want to change them.
(I must confess I did not really completely understood the trick of the keyhole cut to make the adjustments.)

Isn't it possible to make conical cut by changing the horizontal adjustment a little bit instead of changing the jaws?
 

Attachments

#101 ·
Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece

I was doing a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.

My project requires about 48" of guilloche about 2" high. (I am using one of the free patterns from craftsmanspace.com.) To get the length I need I will require around 30 repetitions of the basic pattern. I assembled packets of eight layers each of Cherry and Holly and one of only four layers of Zircote. Cutting four pattern segments in Cherry and eight in Zircote will give me 32 pieces of each. The Holly is doubled in the pattern so I will need to cut eight segments, each eight layers deep.

This is the Cherry packet about to be assembled. On the left are the eight pieces of veneer and on the right is the 1/8" plywood backer and a sheet of grease paper. The grease paper goes next to the backer and then each piece of veneer gets individually taped on top.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Serveware Plywood


When the last veneer is taped on (one short tab of tape on each edge), the edges are taped with one long piece each.
Here are the three packets, all assembled.

Wood Book Publication Office equipment Hardwood


Next, pieces of the guilloche pattern are cut out and fitted on the packets.

Wood Rectangle Office supplies Beige Font


The grain orientation is marked on one pattern piece, to be glued on first.

Brown Rectangle Wood Textile Font


The pieces of pattern are glued on the packets with hot hide glue.

Wood Rectangle Font Art Tints and shades


Then the packet is tightened and reinforced by adding strategically placed veneer nails.

Wood Tool Hand tool Magnifier Magnifying glass


These tiny nails are driven through, cut off and riveted on the back. The riveted over end should be very small so as not to interfere with the blade.

Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Flooring


The great thing about this style is that after cutting one piece of pattern I have eight pieces of my guilloche. The top one is white because it has the pattern on it and you can see the backer and grease paper on the left.

Wood Flooring Floor Table Wood stain


It takes almost no time to cut all the pieces.

Wood Rectangle Font Art Gas


Here is where the day ended up. This is a dry fit on tape to check how I'm doing. I will be doing some sand shading before final assembly and I will orient all those little circles better then as well.

Ruler Wood Office ruler Tool Rectangle


I may post about the project elsewhere but this is it for the part that is relevant to this blog so I guess that's a wrap.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
 

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#102 ·
Repeating Patterns : Guilloche in Piece by Piece

I was doing a piece by piece experiment today with an eye to a new project I have in mind and thought it would make an appropriate addition to this blog series. I have touched on piece by piece or classic style already I know but this is a little different application.

My project requires about 48" of guilloche about 2" high. (I am using one of the free patterns from craftsmanspace.com.) To get the length I need I will require around 30 repetitions of the basic pattern. I assembled packets of eight layers each of Cherry and Holly and one of only four layers of Zircote. Cutting four pattern segments in Cherry and eight in Zircote will give me 32 pieces of each. The Holly is doubled in the pattern so I will need to cut eight segments, each eight layers deep.

This is the Cherry packet about to be assembled. On the left are the eight pieces of veneer and on the right is the 1/8" plywood backer and a sheet of grease paper. The grease paper goes next to the backer and then each piece of veneer gets individually taped on top.

Wood Hardwood Flooring Serveware Plywood


When the last veneer is taped on (one short tab of tape on each edge), the edges are taped with one long piece each.
Here are the three packets, all assembled.

Wood Book Publication Office equipment Hardwood


Next, pieces of the guilloche pattern are cut out and fitted on the packets.

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The grain orientation is marked on one pattern piece, to be glued on first.

Brown Rectangle Wood Textile Font


The pieces of pattern are glued on the packets with hot hide glue.

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Then the packet is tightened and reinforced by adding strategically placed veneer nails.

Wood Tool Hand tool Magnifier Magnifying glass


These tiny nails are driven through, cut off and riveted on the back. The riveted over end should be very small so as not to interfere with the blade.

Brown Rectangle Wood Wood stain Flooring


The great thing about this style is that after cutting one piece of pattern I have eight pieces of my guilloche. The top one is white because it has the pattern on it and you can see the backer and grease paper on the left.

Wood Flooring Floor Table Wood stain


It takes almost no time to cut all the pieces.

Wood Rectangle Font Art Gas


Here is where the day ended up. This is a dry fit on tape to check how I'm doing. I will be doing some sand shading before final assembly and I will orient all those little circles better then as well.

Ruler Wood Office ruler Tool Rectangle


I may post about the project elsewhere but this is it for the part that is relevant to this blog so I guess that's a wrap.

Thanks for looking in.

Paul
COOL!
 

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