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#1 ·
A simple frame saw (even if they call it a bow saw).

A simple frame saw.
Even if they call it a bow saw.

Every one can make a frame saw!
No I do not mean this to be big headed, I mean this from my heart, and I mean this as a motivation for all that have a wish to try - please just do it!
I dedicate this blog to or LJ buddy WayneC, you know why.

In this blog I will make a simple frame saw step by step.

What is it with this bow saw / frame saw?
Nothing really, just found out that the more I look, the less I understand what the right word is for it.
It is not that it really matter, but it would be interesting if we could find an answer to this, until then I will call it a frame saw, since there are a frame and now bow here.


So here we are, the parts ready to become a saw.
A strong wood with tight fibers (this is from a old parasol), you will need to cut this up so it have a size that match the size of your blade, the lighter and thinner the better, but at some point it will become too thin so it will break or wobble, this depending on the wood, so all I can say is try.
A blade. I bought mine from a English saw maker so it is hand sharpened and set, the steel is so soft that it can be re sharpened with a file. The blade I used is a turning Saw blade - 12" length. 11tpi approx. I bought it here.
Any blade will do, if you want to make a cheap fine saw you can buy one of the miter saw blades in any hardware store for next to nothing or as Patron suggest a broken bandsaw blade.
You also need two nails and some string, but this will come later.


Just to show you what I talk about this is a standard parasol without the fabric, in the fall people often trash them and whenever I see one I grab them, there are plenty of fine wood in these and some of them are excellent quality of wood.


And here you see the wood after it has been separated.
I have made plenty of handles also for chisels out of these old parasols.


I know you are not here to read about recycle but saws…
So here is the layout.
I will make a saw with a handle that goes under the blade to secure a really fine control since this is a relatively small saw.
It will be a simple design because I want it to match my Japanese tools even I do know the Japanese do not have a tradition for frame saws (traditions are important to follow and to break if no one is hurt by it).
The saw will be collapsible so it can be transported easy and be a part of my 'out of the house' tool kit.


So let's mark up the places where the bars cross each other.


Transfer the marks to the side where the tenon joints shall be.


Mark up for the mortises, if you divide the dimension into three equal sizes you will not go all wrong, but try to match it with your chisel sizes if possible.
I use my cutting gauge to make deep cuts I can easy follow later with the chisel.


And with a middle gauge I mark the center of the mortise also.


Now time to drill, set the deep stop on your drill press so you will not drill through by mistake.
I want my mortises to be blind (means they do not go all the way through the wood), this is just because I find it more beautiful, so if you think it is more easy to make them go through you can do so.
Also if you want to make a fixed frame, you can let them go through and then wedge them after with contrast wood , this looks wonderful, but I prefer the collapsible version.


Now use the center line to guide you while you make a series of holes in the mortise with a drill that is a little smaller than the mortise width (better too small).


Time to pare out the mortise, a wide chisel for the sides and a narrow for the ends - kind of logic yes…
The chisel can never be sharp enough for paring, so if your chisel is not sharp now is the time to sharpen.


So time to make the matching tenon.
Mark up the one first and finish this one before you make the other end of the cross bar.


If you are lazy and cut the tenon by the table saw, you need to set the deepness of the blade shy of the bar thickness, then raise the bar and run it through.
But today we use a hand saw so everyone can follow, and also there are a charm in using a hand saw to make a hand saw.


So first step is to mark the deepness of the tenon.
I like to use the cutting wheel since this gives a crisp mark when we go cross grain.
(Notice the crack in the wood below, this you will see later, I didn't).


Then mark the width of the tenon on top and down the sides.
Here I use a cutting gauge for two reasons, one that I go with the grain and two that I want to work with two gauges so I keep the setting for the next tenon.


Now cut down the tenon.
Stay on the good side of the line, or in other words let the line stay, you can clean up and fit later, you can't add wood if too small.


And cut the shoulders (not your own please).
Clamp or use a bench hook.


Now clean up the shoulder, what can be better than to use a self made shoulder plane for that.


For the face of the tenon use a wide chisel, and pare of slowly, and test fit again and again until it can be just pushed into the mortise with a gentle pressure.


Chamfer the edges light and rough on the end so it is easy to get in.


Here we are.


The perfect match…


Now for the other end.
Fit the side you just made together.
Lay the saw blade on the saw so the holes are centered on the wood bars.
When it is all straight you can mark where the second tenon shoulder shall be.


And we repeat the same story as before.
Marking.


Sawing.


Fitting.
So now we have a frame.
Notice the position of the blade.
I want the blade to be held to the saw as simple as possible on this saw.
So in one side it is just up in the wood end, and since I made a handle version the blade must go through the frame in the other side (if you don't get it will come).


And now to something completely different…
I just decided to cut of the top to make it more handy.
Mark the same length.


And saw, that's it.

This is the end of part one , it is late here in Copenhagen so I will go to bed now and hopefully post part two tomorrow where we will finish the saw.

Links:
My Swans &v Bones frame saw here:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46219

An old Danish frame saw I just brought back to life:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53076


This was what came up when I was searching on Google for Japanese bow saw…

Hope this blog will inspire others to give it a go on the frame saws,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
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#4 ·
Al, you will get it, do not worry - lol.
(You have my phone number if you don't).

Wayne, yes I know and this was the reason why I upgrated this on my project list, so I should have dedicated this blog to you! I will do that right away.

Best thoughts and thank you for the nice comments my wonderful buddy's,
Mads
 
#9 ·
Very nice job explaining all the steps and the best part of all was the source for free wood to make them!!
I think you should have your own TV show. It would be more popular that Norm Abram's show and you always make such nice tools!!
Thanks for sharing, my friend!!
 
#12 ·
Thanks Mads. I enjoyed reading that - you have an easy style of writing that just lets us come along on the journey with you.

From my trusty Reader's Digest Book of Tools and Skills:

Frame Saw (or wooden bowsaw) is used for cutting curved edges. The twisted cord at the top of the frame supplies tension to keep the blade from wobbling during cutting.

Bowsaw is a heavy duty tool for cutting logs or for coarse sawing of green wood, dry or seasoned wood, or other building materials. The tubular steel frame holds the blade under tension, which can be controlled with the quick release lever.

That would suggest that both names are acceptable, but frame saw is probably more correct.

On the other hand, I have another book by Tage Frid, and he calls it a bowsaw. You just can't win, can you?
 
#14 ·
#18 ·
Hi,

JJW, glad that you can use it, and glad for your words.

Rance, yes I am lazy! That is a fact. But to be honest I cant drill by hand a hole that are as crisp so I need more practice. Also I can hide behind the fact that I am retired due to my neck and arms, so i have to be really carefull all the time not to do the same moves for too long. But… my electric plane have not been used for many years, so…

Patric, are you going to make a Japanese inspired workshop? I have just finished a Japanese inspired workbench that I can use in the living room, I'll post it soon.
Shoji screen that sound interesting, can I see that somewhere?
Best thoughts,
Mads
 
#19 ·
A simple frame saw - part two

A simple frame saw.
part two.

I dedicate this blog to or LJ buddy WayneC, you know why.

This is a blog about making a simple frame saw step by step.


Last blog ended where we had made the tenons for the frame, and we had actually also cut the top of the saw to length.
In this blog we start fitting the blade.
First position the blade and mark with a pencil where the blades top and bottom are.
At the side with no handle the blade shall be just a hair over the saw end.
At the side with handle the blade must be parallel to the crossbar and then you mark top and bottom of the blade.
(I hope that makes sense - look at the picture).


There are many ways to fasten the blade, this is the most simple, a nail.
I will follow the simple road on this saw with no fittings.


First the side bar without the extra handle.
Fix it in your wise and mark a line down the center, it is a good idea to use a marking knife so you cut into the wood.
(Here I use one that is from Korea and a gift from my sister, recommended by my Korean LJ friend Poisson thank you both.).


Saw down the line, and saw a hair deeper than the thickness of the saw blade you will use in the saw.
Then fit in the blade.
It is important that you choose a saw with a saw blade of the same thickness or a little thinner when you make this cut so the blade will be held by the wood (if possible you can use the loose blade for the sawing).
(If you make a saw with no handle then just repeat this on the other side).


Now we go to the bar with the handle.
Put your marks to the face of the bar and find the center.


Drill a small hole through the bar.
The size must fit your jeweler saw blades or fret saw blades thickness.


Now I use a jeweler saw.
(And managed to take a blurry picture of it…).


Mount the blade through the hole.
Saw down to the mark and a hair extra.
Then turn the blade and saw the other part.


Now you have a fine hole where your saw blade can go through.
(Almost magic…).


Remember the crack in last blog…
Well now I discovered it and put the saw under tension, and look what happened!
Learning by doing.
10 minutes later I have made a new, and I got some training, so nothing is so bad, that something good don't come out of it at the end (Danish saying).


Here a picture of the new saw blade hole.


Now make sure the frame is square.
Lay the blade on top of the saw frame.
Mark the holes of the saw blade.
(The handle of my awl is also made from a piece of parasol).


Drill a hole through the frame.
(I use a push drill, they make no noise).


Mark the thickness of the frame on the nail.
And then cut it of to length.


Mark where the blade meets the edge of the saw.


Bang the nail in.
(Here I use my Sweet little Miss Debbie hammer and send her a thought).


As I said I wanted a little upgrade from the nails, so I bend some brass rod.
Cut of one end as the nails in thickness of the saw and leave the other end quite long so it is easy to get hold of since I want the saw to be easy put apart.


Now I cut a little piece of scrap, thickness of app one third of the frame bars.
This is going to be the tension arm for the saw.
It will need to be as long as the top arm and a little more than the width of the cross bar extra.
(Look at next picture).


Now time to make half a hole to attach the tension string.
I fasten a piece of scrap wood to outside of the end of the side bars.


And then drill a hole app the thickness of the bar down and right in the gap between the scrap and the frame.


So now I can attach the string.
I use a nylon cord, but the string just need to be strong and not too flexible.


At the end of the tension stick I file a little half circle.


Then tighten the tension string by turning the tension stick around until the blade is tight.
And now we have a saw!
(You can over tension a saw, so try carefully to find the best spot. On my Swans & Bones saw you can see a more advanced tension stick that can be adjusted half turns).


Test cutting.
Notice the wonderful grip I have due to the handle.


Test cuts (the two on the top).
Yes it can be used for dovetails Rand.


A nice pair of friends.


Here wrapped up and ready to take on the go.
Compared to the dovetail saw in size.


MaFe has left the building!

The end.

Links:
My Swans &v Bones frame saw here:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/46219

An old Danish frame saw I just brought back to life:
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53076

Hope this blog will inspire others to give it a go on the frame saws,

Best of thoughts,
Mads
 
#20 ·
well done mads

as always

i made one once
(i had a small band saw that kept breaking blades)

all i had was band saw blades
and found i could drill holes in them

so that's what i used for the blade

it worked just fine
and with different width blades
will do different circle cutting
(just like the band saw)
 
#28 ·
Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping (blog)

Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping
Parts and Swans

I was always fascinated by frame saws (bow saw in US), when I was a boy and visited my friends uncles cabinet making shop and they were hanging there on the wall I loved the look of them, they were like practical sculptures.
And for about a year I had the dream to make a frame saw, but I kept finding other projects that came first, and felt my skills needed to grow before doing this.
But when I fell over a picture of a frame saw with swans heads, and I had no choice left, I needed to make a frame saw, and I needed to try if I was able to make a swan carving…
(I send a warm thank you to the inspirator who ironically calls himself 'the toolman').

Since I have postet the saw by now, I will show a picture of the saw when done before we begin the 'tuturial'.


I call it Swans and Bones, named after the shapes.


Here is where I began, a sketch of the idea, adjusted as I went and finished up after.


I decided to go the MaFe way - recycle and parts made from standard items.
A pice of teak board, and chumk of teak and a standard coping saw blade.


Marking the width of the arms and the cross bar.


Cut the board.
This can ofcourse be done by hand.


Ohhh yes!
We need also some threaded rod, I use brass just because it is looking more beautiful when it gets old.


Do you get the picture?


Or do I need to draw it?


Marking for the cross bar.


And where the base for the blade will be.


More marking…


The curces can be added.


And the swans.


This is what I wish for.
Swans at the top, and bones at the base.


Bones.


Midt.


Swans.


If you want to work by hand, use another coping saw…


I use the bands saw.


And take as much as I can.
Look at that terible burn…


Making a hole.


Cutting out the waste with a jeweler saw.


Or your scroll saw.


Here we are, closer and closer.


Mark up the back sides.


And the curves I want.


Same for the lower part.


Then some more cutting.


A tour on my beloved Super sander.


Knifes, carving tools, pipe and good music, how can I not be happy?


First swan starts to take shape.


After some sanding, and I am not all disapointed in the result - dam good MaFe, jubiiii.


Fragile as a swan should be, and this is my first carving ever.


Now the bone.


Ohhhh yes an one more of each!


A quick tour on the sisal wheel after sanding.


Linseed oil.


With and without.


Wet swan.


Wax, I use a antique wax to make the lines become more visual.


With and without.


Swans.


Bones.

For me this was a dream come true, a step on my wood travel, and I'm quite happy for the result, when I get time and energy I will work more on the bones by the blade, these I want to look more like real bones.

End of part one, part two will come soon.

Links:
Wiki bowsaw: press here
The swans nest by Hans Christian Andersen: press here
Song by Swan lee: press here
Us parts: press here

Hope it can be to some inspiration, who knows even some frame saws.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 
#60 ·
Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping (blog)

Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping
Parts and Swans

Part two.

Last blog ended where the swans and bones handles were finished, now I will move on to the home made hardware.

Found this interesting link it might give some thoughts.


A standard brass screw app two inch long.
The head is cut off.


The end rounded, this can be done by hand, but yes I am lazy…


Ok, back to the hacksaw, cut down the middle.


Then half way down on the side.


Bravo!!!
We have a blade holder.


Get the picture.


A pair and we have a saw.


OK. I will make one more version, just for fun.
This time I will use threaded rod, brass.
Cut of a piece that are long enough to go through the handle and long enough to hold the blade in one side and go into the turn handle on the upper side. (Confused look at later picture

es).
Mark what part that goes into the turn handle.


Put the rod into a lathe or a drill and turn while you file of the thread.


I will leave a little just because I think it looks wonderful.


Shiny and wonderful.


Cut down the middle.
(Guess you know by now).


Like before we want a holder for the blade.


Like so!


Get it?


Back to the frame.
Marking for the hole where the rod will go through, same diameter as the rod.


Drill first with a smaller drill.


Then drill the final hole.


Yabadabadooooooo!


We got the hardware ready here.


Time to fish!
Ok, no fishing this is just my push stick, what you should look at here are the small pieces of wood on the saw.
This is the wood for the turn handles.


Back to the lathe.


First round.


Then shape a fine little handle.


Nice pair I think.


Linseed oil.


Polish.


Cloth.


Fine polish.


Cloth.


Another turn with linseed oil.
This is my often used tool finish.


Drill a hole for the rod into the handle.
This time I make the hole a little smaller.


Then I thread the wood.


Mixing epoxy.


Fill it into the handle and then screw the rod end of the blade holder into the handle.


Leave to dry and perhaps smoke a wonderful pipe of tobacco.

End of part two, part three will come soon.

Links:
Wiki bow saw: press here
The swans nest by Hans Christian Andersen: press here
Song by Swan lee: press here
Us parts: press here

Hope it can be to some inspiration, who knows even some frame saws.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 
#77 ·
Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping (blog)

Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping
Parts and Swans

Part three.

Last blog ended with a good tobacco, the hardware, the turn handles and the side handles ready, now it is time to finish the frame.


With the hardware and frame in place, the frame can be completed.
So I place the piece of wood in the middle and am ready to mark up the width, and add length for the tenons.
Since I want the frame sides to end parallel, the saw before tension will have to tilt a little towards the blade end, in this way once the tension is made the sides will be straight (hope this makes sense).


Next step is to cut the tenons, this I do on the table saw even I know I make hand tools… (One I am lazy, two I am retired due to a neck operation so I have a lot of pain in arms and neck, so I have to choose what parts of the work that need my hands).
I start with the faces.


Then the sides.


Get the picture?


Marking width and then tenon.


Then cut the other tenon face.


Sides.


And with a cutting gauge fit the size.


Finally paring the tenon sides.


Cleaning up the shoulders with a shoulder plane.


This one is Veritas miniature version, really cool tool.


The tenons are made and I can move on to the mortises.
First I mark them up carefully.


Then pre drill a series of holes.


Like this!


Now for some strange reason I go on with the frame…
I have no idea why I did not finish the mortises.
To keep the bone structure, I decide to minimize the frames center piece, just like a human leg bone, since the maximum strength is needed by the joint and the center just need to be able to take the push stress.
So this is marked with a thin ruler that can curve.


Cut off.


And sanded in shape.


After a finish like the rest of the frame, the saw parts are all there.


Finally back!
With a mortise chisel I start cleaning up.


And here my little dovetail chisel made from exato blade is a gem.


With a little patience a mortise is born.


And the fit is perfect.


One more to go.


And the final finish is made.


So many custom made tools for so little work… But the pleasure is even bigger when you made the tools yourself.


Soaking in linseed oil while we wait for the next blog part.

End of part three, part four will come soon and that will be the last.

Links:
Wiki bow saw: press here
The swans nest by Hans Christian Andersen: press here
Song by Swan lee: press here
Us parts: press here

Hope it can be to some inspiration, who knows even some frame saws.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 
#86 ·
Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping (blog)

Swans and bones - Frame saw for coping
Parts and Swans

Part four, the finale.

Last blog ended with a soak of oil, this time we move on to finish, tension, making the saw work, and this will be the end of the Swans and bones blog.


The frame is complete and it's time for the tensioning.
A piece of wood, same as the saw.


Mark the size.
At least as long as the saw top to the center.


Also a little piece of wood for the half turn tension piece.
(This I will explain later).


This need to go through.


So parts ready.


Making the holes for the mortise.


Cleaning up.


Shaping on my Supersander (I love that tool).


Here you see the idea.
I have started shaping the tensioner also.


Shaping details.


Bone look…


Linseed oil.


Time for finish.
First a rough polish on the wheel.


Here you see the result to the right.
(This is what I use on my knifes).


Just like this.


The fine polish.


Like this…


All the parts are now ready, and time for a wonderful pear.


Tasty!


Traditionally we use hemp cord in Europe, but I try with a ship quality nylon since I love the red color.
Remember to burn the ends.


And here we have the saw!
Notice the half turn tensioner, this is a cool detail that makes you able to tension to the limit.


Handle.


Shoulders.


Swans neck.


Tensioner.


And the saw in the hands of the happy owner.

End of this part of the blog.

Links:
Wiki bow saw: press here
The swans nest by Hans Christian Andersen: press here
Song by Swan lee: press here
Us parts: press here

Hope it can be to some inspiration, who knows even some frame saws.

Best thoughts,

MaFe
 
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