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When I built my miter saw cart a few years ago, I did not add a fence or stop. I wanted to think about it before making a final decision. The original plan (Popular Woodworking) had a simple t-track and stop block on each wing with no fence. In the interim, I used a straightedge clamp when setting repeat cuts.

The new fence system is made from 1" laminated oak (3" high). Each fence is 36" long and has a t-track for mounting stop blocks and feather boards. Photo 1 shows the cart with both fences mounted. The fences are held in place with 5/16" hex bolts and star knobs. They can be repositioned, if needed. Photo 2 is a closer look at the left side fence. Both fences come within 1/2"of the miter saw metal fence. Photo 3 is one of the stop blocks. It is a two part stop. The main block is 3"x3" x1". The metal rod (3/8"x12") hold the extension stop (1" x3" x1"). The extension stop is used when making close in cuts (photo 4). Photo 5 is the miter saw cart with the wings folded down. Photo 6 is a shot of the ZCI insert. It is made from 1/4" oak. I made it by attaching the plastic kerf plate to the oak and routing using a pattern bit. I am looking for some 1'4" plastic for the next generation of ZCI inserts.

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Comments

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17 Posts
Hay, SPLENDID idea! I can see this operation saving you time and of course precious space!
 

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19,753 Posts
Very good Idea on how to handle those shorter cuts
 

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Yep…could really use one of those. Looks great!
 

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a1Jim favorited this. It has to be good….................
 

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560 Posts
Mind making one for me. Cause I really like it.
 

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Great job, very clean and functional. I really like this. Great job.
 

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Great idea & well executed! I've been looking into making one of these & hope you don't mind if I use/copy your fence design.
 

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Very nice. Were these add ons or did you build them at the same time with the miter saw cart?
 

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These were just added on. When I built the cart it had the fold down extension wings with no fence. the original plan called for a t-track to run down the middle of each wing with a stop block. I didn't care for that design. In the interim, I used a straight edge clamp as a stop. I am in the process of building a staircase and will need to size a number of parts exactly the same. Hence, the new fences and stop block system. The ZCI was added because the original kerf plate had about a 1/2" opening and there would be a fair amount of splintering.
The posting for the original cart is lumberjocks.com/projects/22137.
 

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This is an incredible project. I really have to make one for my miter saw. Was it hard getting the extension wings level and in-line with the saw? Seems like it would be tricky to get the hinge positions just right. The extendable stop block is also very clever.
 

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The cart, saw platform and wings were built first. The wings have a piano hinge to connect the housing (part that attaches to the cabinet) and the horizontal wing. Once I was sure that the wing and housing were parallel to each other, I removed the wing part. The way to get the whole thing level and aligned is pretty straight forward. Once the cart is built, the saw platform is installed and leveled out. I then attached a one end of a straight edge the saw and clamped the other end to wing housing (wing was not connected at that point). Once the wing housing was level and properly positioned, I marker and drilled the housing and the cart at the same time. The wing housing is attached with carriage bolts and wing nuts. I then reattached the horizontal wing section. Repeat the whole procedure for the second wing. There is an adjustment screw in the wing support so to make sure the wing is level with the saw, I use a straightedge and feeler gauges to make sure that the whole thing is level. I check to make sure the thing stays level as the season changes. The whole cart and wings are sealed with polyurethane to try to control seasonal movement of the parts. In three years, the whole thing has only needed minor adjustments.

I built the fences (1" oak face and 3/4" base) using glue and biscuits. Once the fences were cured, I face jointed the fence and then ran the base through the jointer to make sure it was square. To attach the fences to the wings, once again, the straightedge is clamped to the saw and the fence. Once they were positioned, I drilled the fence base and wing and installed the 5'16" bolt and star knob.
 

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Great design .
Every shop should have one and it is on my list.
This will help with my build .

Kiefer
 

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VN, could you help me understand this a little further please. "The fences are held in place with 5/16" hex bolts and star knobs. They can be repositioned, if needed." In your last response you wrote "Once they were positioned, I drilled the fence base and wing and installed the 5'16" bolt and star knob." If there is only a 5/16" hole how is it able to be repositioned? You know I'm not trying to be a wise a$$ just trying to get my version right the first time. One more question came to mind after reviewing the info you sent me was, did you stay true to the dimensions in height or match the height to one of your other work surfaces? Myself, being almost 6'7" think the 34" height dimension might be a little low. Thanks much, Pat
 

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