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My Home Made Thickness Sander

120K views 84 replies 23 participants last post by  lew 
#1 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
 

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#2 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Looks great Lew!
Kyle
 

Attachments

#3 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Lew:

It's looking great. Nice and cheap so far.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Ok, points to you for the PICTURES! Many thanks.

However, in your other thread, I asked for PICTURES & SPECIFICATIONS!!! So, if you could be so kind…...

What are the spec's & source of the pillow block bearings?
What is the diameter & width of the pulley on the drum?
How did you arrive at those spec's?

Inquiring minds (and idiots like me) want to know!!!

Seriously, nice work with pictures and documentation of the process! Please keep posting as much detail as you can/have time for.
 

Attachments

#5 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Looks good, Lew!
 

Attachments

#6 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Karson, CJ, and Kyle- Thanks!

Randy- The pillow blocks are from Peer Bearings. Here are the numbers from the box UCP202-10; 11496; W128618. These are for a 5/8" shaft. The drum pulley is 3.6" diameter- what I had. The motor pulley diameter is 2.6" diameter. I wanted the drum to turn slower than the motor, for power. May have to decrease the motor pulley diameter if things bog down. I used the pulley on the motor to get the dimensions for the drum pulley. The belt width is a little under 1/2"- what I had here. How did I arrive at these specification? Pure Luck!

Lew
 

Attachments

#7 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
this is great lew, i love when these things are made from the cheap, good ole hard work and using the ole noggin…grizz
 

Attachments

#8 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Grizz- Thanks! Cheap is good!
 

Attachments

#9 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Lew,

Thanks for the specs.
I plan on building one of these someday. As my brain is a great cavern of emptiness, I'm trying to learn/absorb all the info I can. I fiqure if I fill it up then there won't be any more room for the voices!!!
 

Attachments

#10 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Randy- know what you mean. I'm like Homer Simpson, every time I learn something new it pushes something else out.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
Lew, this will be a fine sander and I'll follow along to see what happens.

helluvawreck

https://woodworkingexpo.wordpress.com
 

Attachments

#12 ·
The Drum

When making my rolling pins, I use the thickness planer to bring the thin strips down to 1/8" thick. Unfortunately, if the grain in the wood is not uniform- or there are knots- the strips shatter. This wastes a lot of wood and doesn't do the planer any good either. It seemed to me a thickness sander would be perfect for this process. Well, Craig's List wasn't producing any results and I couldn't afford a new one. Time to take action!
Starting with what seemed to me to be the most critical/difficult part; I began researching construction methods and gathering parts for the drum. The choices were narrowed down to three. One- buy the kit, two- solid wood cylinder or 3- PVC/wood combination. #1 was quickly eliminated- I'm cheap! #2- maybe, but then I found a hunk of 3" PVC in my stash of plumbing left overs. #3 it is- I'm cheap! Next, the pillow block bearings- had to buy these- $20 each. The 5/8" shaft was from the scrap bin at the local Vocational School.

Glued up some oak scraps and began turning the end cap, pulley end and center supports.
Wood Gas Tints and shades Motor vehicle Machine


The process is the same for the end block, pulley block and center supports. The center supports were sliced from a single turning.
Turn a blank to a slightly larger diameter than the PVC. Turn a tenon on one end to permit the use of a chuck.
Wood Gas Machine tool Nut Machine


Remount the blank with the tenon in a chuck.
Wood Gas Cylinder Machine tool Machine


Drill the blank to fit the center axle.
Wood Gas Metal Spinning Engineering


Remove the drill bit/Jacobs chuck and remount the live center. Advance the live center into the axle hole. Check to make sure the blank spins true. The first end cap turned out to be slightly misaligned. I didn't see it until testing the drum and motor combination. Fortunately, it wasn't too difficult to disassemble the drum and make a new end cap. Place a piece of cut off PVC over the Live Center. This will be used to test for the correct diameter as the blank is turned.
Tints and shades Wood Plumbing Metal Machine


Turn the blank to the inside diameter of the PVC, testing for a snug fit. I left about 1 ½ " long shoulder- turned to the PVC's outside diameter- on the End Cap piece.
Brown Wood Tints and shades Gas Winery


The center supports are snug fit piece that was sliced in half.

The pulley end is turned in the same fashion as the end cap. The only real difference is that the "shoulder" is longer to accommodate the integral pulley. In addition, the tenon, used by the chuck, is left in place to allow a spring pin to capture the axle.
Wood Hardwood Tool Gas Lumber


Wood Hardwood Mass production Lumber Plywood


Wood Gas Tints and shades Cylinder Plumbing


The PVC is cut to length and the wooden pieces fitted into place. Mark the locations of the center supports and the end pieces. These will have screws to capture the PVC to the wood, later.
Wood Publication Gas Cylinder Flooring


Drill and countersink the PVC for screws. I wasn't sure how these would affect the balance so I evenly spaced the screw lengthwise and at 90 degrees around the circumference. Also, not being a plumber, I did not realize that 3" PVC is not solid (at least what I had). Mine was a foam core type. It seems to be working OK, however. Just had to be careful not to press hard on the countersink!
Cylinder Automotive exhaust Gas Auto part Audio equipment


Once the PVC is secured and everything is positioned, drill a hole in the pulley end tenon to accept a spring pin. This hole is drilled completely through the axle and tenon. I wanted to be certain that if something broke the spring pin could be driven back out.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Tints and shades Automotive tire


So far, I had to buy the pillow block bearings and the spring pin.
"Helluva.."-

Thanks! I'll post updates as I find improvements/failures. If I can figure out how to do it, maybe even a short video.

Lew
 

Attachments

#13 ·
Testing The Drum

After building the drum, a test was in order. After all, if this part didn't run true there was no sense in moving forward.
Using a piece of Corian, the motor and drum were clamped down in position. The motor is a 120v 1/3 HP motor salvaged out of our old furnace. The belt is the one from my table saw- a link belt replaced it.

Engineering Gas Machine Auto part Toolroom


Wood Gas Auto part Machine Engineering


With some anxiousness, power was applied. Holy Cow, It Worked!!

The pulley ratio is about 1:1.5- the drum being larger- so the speed of the drum is slightly more than 1000 RPMs.
I hear everyone talking about the "Nickel Test" so what the heck-

Wood Food Cuisine Ingredient Wire


There is belt vibration but some of that should be eliminated when the motor is mounted properly. But the nickel stood on edge!!

Next, the table lifting mechanism. Talk about overkill!!
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Testing The Drum

After building the drum, a test was in order. After all, if this part didn't run true there was no sense in moving forward.
Using a piece of Corian, the motor and drum were clamped down in position. The motor is a 120v 1/3 HP motor salvaged out of our old furnace. The belt is the one from my table saw- a link belt replaced it.

Engineering Gas Machine Auto part Toolroom


Wood Gas Auto part Machine Engineering


With some anxiousness, power was applied. Holy Cow, It Worked!!

The pulley ratio is about 1:1.5- the drum being larger- so the speed of the drum is slightly more than 1000 RPMs.
I hear everyone talking about the "Nickel Test" so what the heck-

Wood Food Cuisine Ingredient Wire


There is belt vibration but some of that should be eliminated when the motor is mounted properly. But the nickel stood on edge!!

Next, the table lifting mechanism. Talk about overkill!!
This is great.

Nice.
 

Attachments

#18 ·
The Table Adjustment Mechanism

After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
The arm pieces were made from ¾" x 1" oak, the top/bottom and front/rear pieces were thicker and wider to add support. All the pieces were cut and drilled prior to assembly. Assembly was with ¼" lag bolts and washers. The adjustment rod is a piece of 5/16" steel all-thread. A T-nut is used, on the rear of the back piece, into which the rod threads.

Wood Rolling pin Hardwood Cuisine Spinning


Theodolite Wood Cylinder Hardwood Wind instrument


Wood Plank Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plywood Plank


Wood Stairs Wood stain Hardwood Beam


Originally, the plan was to use a small star knob. However, it was difficult to determine how much adjustment was achieved from a slight rotation. The oversized knob makes it easier to see even the slightest advance. As it turns out, a full turn raises the table very close to 1/16".

Wood Motor vehicle Engineering Wheel Hardwood


Had to buy the all-thread and the screen door spring.

The next part will be about the framing.
 

Attachments

#19 ·
The Table Adjustment Mechanism

After researching many sander designs and knowing my tendency to over engineer everything, there was only one choice for the table adjusting/lifting mechanism.
The source of the lift came from this site and I give the author full credit- http://home.mchsi.com/~woodywrkng/DrumSander.html. The only change/addition I made was to add springs the help eliminate any "backlash" in the movement. The author of the site felt this mechanism gave more support over the full width of the table.
The arm pieces were made from ¾" x 1" oak, the top/bottom and front/rear pieces were thicker and wider to add support. All the pieces were cut and drilled prior to assembly. Assembly was with ¼" lag bolts and washers. The adjustment rod is a piece of 5/16" steel all-thread. A T-nut is used, on the rear of the back piece, into which the rod threads.

Wood Rolling pin Hardwood Cuisine Spinning


Theodolite Wood Cylinder Hardwood Wind instrument


Wood Plank Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plywood Plank


Wood Stairs Wood stain Hardwood Beam


Originally, the plan was to use a small star knob. However, it was difficult to determine how much adjustment was achieved from a slight rotation. The oversized knob makes it easier to see even the slightest advance. As it turns out, a full turn raises the table very close to 1/16".

Wood Motor vehicle Engineering Wheel Hardwood


Had to buy the all-thread and the screen door spring.

The next part will be about the framing.
Wow: that's cool looking.
 

Attachments

#30 ·
Building The Frame

Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints.
The overall width of the frame is 23" and the table height is about 31". The length, at the bottom, is about 36". The table is 16" x 24". The frame is made of pine 2×4 and 2×6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾" Melamine with ¾" plywood support and a 1" oak piece for the pivot hinge.
These photos are from the dry fit. I'm gonna need to get some more clamps!









To increase the structural integrity, two 2×4 cross members were added at the bottom of the front and back of the frame. You will be able to see them in a later section.

Had to buy the 2 x materials.
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Building The Frame

Now that the drum runs true and the table lift works, it was time to start building the frame. My intention was to use mortise and tenon joinery but my choice of material was 2×6 for the top and bottom of the sides. This was larger than my mortiser could handle. I know, I could have chopped them out by hand. I opted for half lap joints.
The overall width of the frame is 23" and the table height is about 31". The length, at the bottom, is about 36". The table is 16" x 24". The frame is made of pine 2×4 and 2×6. All the joints are glued and screwed. The table is a piece of ¾" Melamine with ¾" plywood support and a 1" oak piece for the pivot hinge.
These photos are from the dry fit. I'm gonna need to get some more clamps!







Wood Building Floor Beam Engineering


To increase the structural integrity, two 2×4 cross members were added at the bottom of the front and back of the frame. You will be able to see them in a later section.

Had to buy the 2 x materials.
Did you joint and plane the framing lumber?
 

Attachments

#35 ·
Mounting The Drum And Motor

Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive!
The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.





I was afraid that the soft pine might crush enough to allow the bolts to spin during tightening. Once everything was dry fitted, the bolt heads were Gorilla Glued to help prevent them from spinning.



Finally, the aluminum plates are placed in position- ready for the drum to be bolted down.



The motor is mounted to a piece of 3/4 " plywood. The plywood is fastened to the frame using small "barn style" hinges at one end of the plywood. The weight of the motor creates the tension on the belt/pulley system. I routed slots for the motor mounting bolts in order to be able to adjust the motor side to side to align the belt/pulley.







Had to buy 4 carriage bolts and nuts
 

Attachments

#36 ·
Mounting The Drum And Motor

Time to mount the drum and motor to the frame. The choice of 2×6 sides was made to hopefully eliminate any flexing when work pieces were in contact with the sanding surface. However, that lead to difficulty in figuring out how to be able to mount the drum bearings to the sides. Long carriage bolts can be expensive!
The sides are counter bored about 3" and then drilled to match the bolt diameter. An area around the mounting surface was mortised for an aluminum plate. The pillow block bearings will set on the plate, not the wooden surface. Again, my hope is to improve stability.





I was afraid that the soft pine might crush enough to allow the bolts to spin during tightening. Once everything was dry fitted, the bolt heads were Gorilla Glued to help prevent them from spinning.



Finally, the aluminum plates are placed in position- ready for the drum to be bolted down.



The motor is mounted to a piece of 3/4 " plywood. The plywood is fastened to the frame using small "barn style" hinges at one end of the plywood. The weight of the motor creates the tension on the belt/pulley system. I routed slots for the motor mounting bolts in order to be able to adjust the motor side to side to align the belt/pulley.







Had to buy 4 carriage bolts and nuts
I like the addition of the aluminium plates for the pillow block bearings!

Keep on posting, I'm following you.
 

Attachments

#41 ·
Mounting The Table

The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾" Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾" plywood on three sides and a 1" piece of oak on the hinge side.

Table Desk Wood Automotive design Workbench


Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain Flooring


The hinge is then screwed to a mounting/adjusting bracket that fits between the two sides of the frame. A slotted hole in each side of the bracket allows for vertical adjustments to assure the table is parallel to the drum. Although not shown, the backs of the slotted piece are covered with PSA sand paper to help prevent slipping during adjustment. The bolts are tightened securely once the table/drum alignment is achieved.

Wood Beam Building Hardwood Lumber


Wood Table Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Fixture Floor Hardwood Flooring


Door Wood Dead bolt Floor Fixture


The opposite end of the table (front of the sander) in screwed to the top of the lift mechanism with countersunk screws.

Had to buy 2 carriage bolts and nuts.
 

Attachments

#42 ·
Mounting The Table

The final major part of the assembly is the table. The piece of ¾" Melamine is from the scrap box at the local Vocational School and the piano hinges are pieces left from a project made for my brother in law. The top is reinforced with a frame of ¾" plywood on three sides and a 1" piece of oak on the hinge side.

Table Desk Wood Automotive design Workbench


Wood Rectangle Floor Wood stain Flooring


The hinge is then screwed to a mounting/adjusting bracket that fits between the two sides of the frame. A slotted hole in each side of the bracket allows for vertical adjustments to assure the table is parallel to the drum. Although not shown, the backs of the slotted piece are covered with PSA sand paper to help prevent slipping during adjustment. The bolts are tightened securely once the table/drum alignment is achieved.

Wood Beam Building Hardwood Lumber


Wood Table Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


Wood Fixture Floor Hardwood Flooring


Door Wood Dead bolt Floor Fixture


The opposite end of the table (front of the sander) in screwed to the top of the lift mechanism with countersunk screws.

Had to buy 2 carriage bolts and nuts.
Nice execution on this! Not only will it serve you well, it is costing you very little except "sweat equity"!
 

Attachments

#45 ·
The Sandpaper

It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.

The first step was to clean the PVC drum; started with mineral spirits then denatured alcohol. Next, carefully wrap the hook material, press it down, and allow it to "rest" overnight to get maximum adhesion.

Wood Table Gas Engineering Flooring


Table Wood Outdoor furniture Hardwood Wood stain


The above pictures also show the cross members added to the bottom of the frame- for stability; also, another view of the table's rear support/adjustment bracket as well as the screws holding the table front to the height adjustment.

Next, wrap the paper- this is 40 grit. Anchor BOTH ends. We have dust!

Couch Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle


All day, I had been working from the rear of the sander. When it came time for the live fire test, I had anchored what I thought to be the leading edge of the paper- Wrong! As soon as the drum got some speed, the paper lifted and re-wrapped backwards around the drum. Fortunately, it did not tear but it did knock off some of the grit. (Note to self- anchor both ends.)

Couch Wood Flooring Floor Gas


Had to buy the hook and loop system.
 

Attachments

#46 ·
The Sandpaper

It was finally time to add the sand paper to the drum. Having decided on a Velcro (hook and loop) system, it was off to Super Grit http://www.supergrit.com/ . Their store is only a half an hour drive from here. The hook portion required 5 feet of material. This PSA stuff is 4" wide and is $2/foot. Also bought 3 different grits of the 3" wide loop paper. Their minimum purchase is 3 yards but at between $1.50 to $2.00 a yard it is reasonable. It took about 73" to wrap the drum but I think I can get it down to 72" and be able to get 2 applications from 4 yards.

The first step was to clean the PVC drum; started with mineral spirits then denatured alcohol. Next, carefully wrap the hook material, press it down, and allow it to "rest" overnight to get maximum adhesion.

Wood Table Gas Engineering Flooring


Table Wood Outdoor furniture Hardwood Wood stain


The above pictures also show the cross members added to the bottom of the frame- for stability; also, another view of the table's rear support/adjustment bracket as well as the screws holding the table front to the height adjustment.

Next, wrap the paper- this is 40 grit. Anchor BOTH ends. We have dust!

Couch Wood Flooring Floor Rectangle


All day, I had been working from the rear of the sander. When it came time for the live fire test, I had anchored what I thought to be the leading edge of the paper- Wrong! As soon as the drum got some speed, the paper lifted and re-wrapped backwards around the drum. Fortunately, it did not tear but it did knock off some of the grit. (Note to self- anchor both ends.)

Couch Wood Flooring Floor Gas


Had to buy the hook and loop system.
sweet. what do you mean "I have been working from the rear side" Lew?
 

Attachments

#53 ·
Some Refinements

Most of the photos used for this blog were taken "along the way." As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and "S**t! I should have…".

The first thing was when Mimi passed by and said, "it's nice but where are you going to put it"? Anyone who has been in the shop knows you need a road map and a course in choreography to get around all of the stuff crammed in there. OK, we are gonna need some wheels to move this thing out of the way.

Table Wood Flooring Artifact Wood stain


Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system Tread


Food Wood Ingredient Hardwood Flooring


Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood Table


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Plywood


Only two wheels were needed, as the unit is not very heavy. Mounting them was simply a lag bolt and washer. A 16d nail through a hole in each one provides the locking mechanism to keep the wheels down when moving the unit. The wheels came from a salvaged skateboard. They were originally destined to become a lathe steady rest. (Note to self- find another skateboard for the steady rest.)

Wood Flooring Automotive tire Toy Hardwood


Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Shelf


Another change was the addition of a "handle" to the adjustment wheel. It is more of a visual indicator and lever than a handle. Turning the large knob, against the spring pressure, is a little difficult. The handle/lever adds a little more surface to grip and provides a better indication of how much the knob is turned.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Wooden block


The final modification is the paper end hold-downs. The original ones were small blocks of maple. A screw pulled the blocks into recesses cut in the wooden end caps of the drum. They work fine but the wood blocks seems to cut into the paper, almost tearing it. My thought is to replace the wood with another material. Something firm enough to hold the paper but yet soft enough to expand, from screw pressure, into the recess. Like one of those thermos stoppers with the lever. The material shown is a firm foam rubber block cut from a toy golf ball- still open for ideas here.

Brown Wood Sleeve Tints and shades Circle


Didn't have to buy anything!! Love it!
 

Attachments

#54 ·
Some Refinements

Most of the photos used for this blog were taken "along the way." As with everything made in my shop, there are always changes, modifications and "S**t! I should have…".

The first thing was when Mimi passed by and said, "it's nice but where are you going to put it"? Anyone who has been in the shop knows you need a road map and a course in choreography to get around all of the stuff crammed in there. OK, we are gonna need some wheels to move this thing out of the way.

Table Wood Flooring Artifact Wood stain


Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system Tread


Food Wood Ingredient Hardwood Flooring


Wood Floor Wood stain Hardwood Table


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Plywood


Only two wheels were needed, as the unit is not very heavy. Mounting them was simply a lag bolt and washer. A 16d nail through a hole in each one provides the locking mechanism to keep the wheels down when moving the unit. The wheels came from a salvaged skateboard. They were originally destined to become a lathe steady rest. (Note to self- find another skateboard for the steady rest.)

Wood Flooring Automotive tire Toy Hardwood


Wood Table Wood stain Hardwood Shelf


Another change was the addition of a "handle" to the adjustment wheel. It is more of a visual indicator and lever than a handle. Turning the large knob, against the spring pressure, is a little difficult. The handle/lever adds a little more surface to grip and provides a better indication of how much the knob is turned.

Wood Floor Flooring Wood stain Wooden block


The final modification is the paper end hold-downs. The original ones were small blocks of maple. A screw pulled the blocks into recesses cut in the wooden end caps of the drum. They work fine but the wood blocks seems to cut into the paper, almost tearing it. My thought is to replace the wood with another material. Something firm enough to hold the paper but yet soft enough to expand, from screw pressure, into the recess. Like one of those thermos stoppers with the lever. The material shown is a firm foam rubber block cut from a toy golf ball- still open for ideas here.

Brown Wood Sleeve Tints and shades Circle


Didn't have to buy anything!! Love it!
Lew: I was wondering where you were going to put it, but I figured it might be in Mimi's kitchen or put Quigley bed cushions on the lower lever and take his spot.

I'm using the spring clamp on my drum to hold the paper.
 

Attachments

#58 ·
Dust Collection And Finishing Up

Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
This is what the finished "hood" looks like-

Table Wood Workbench Hardwood Machine


Table Furniture Wood Cabinetry Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Varnish Hardwood Musical instrument accessory


Had the ½" plywood from another project. This is just a simple box. I wanted some way to hold it in place and be able to remove it without tools. Made two brackets from 1" aluminum angle "iron" to catch one side and some button magnets for the other side. Dust collection is a 2 ½" angled port that connects into the collection system.

Wood Rectangle Loom Flooring Hardwood


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Audio equipment


Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Gas


The box sits on the frame and slides into place. The hold down is a large head screw.

Brown Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor


Wood Hardwood Gas Fixture Wood stain


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Automotive wheel system Gas


Had to buy a few more magnets and the dust collection port.

Well, that's pretty much it! Thanks for wading through my ramblings. If you have any questions, suggestion, criticisms, or need information, just let me know. Also, if you know of some other neat sites for building these, please add them to the comments to help anyone else get some ideas.

Thanks,
Lew
 

Attachments

#59 ·
Dust Collection And Finishing Up

Better add some sort of dust collection to this thing before I do anymore testing!
This is what the finished "hood" looks like-

Table Wood Workbench Hardwood Machine


Table Furniture Wood Cabinetry Wood stain


Wood Wood stain Varnish Hardwood Musical instrument accessory


Had the ½" plywood from another project. This is just a simple box. I wanted some way to hold it in place and be able to remove it without tools. Made two brackets from 1" aluminum angle "iron" to catch one side and some button magnets for the other side. Dust collection is a 2 ½" angled port that connects into the collection system.

Wood Rectangle Loom Flooring Hardwood


Wood Wood stain Hardwood Gas Audio equipment


Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Gas


The box sits on the frame and slides into place. The hold down is a large head screw.

Brown Wood Flooring Rectangle Floor


Wood Hardwood Gas Fixture Wood stain


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Automotive wheel system Gas


Had to buy a few more magnets and the dust collection port.

Well, that's pretty much it! Thanks for wading through my ramblings. If you have any questions, suggestion, criticisms, or need information, just let me know. Also, if you know of some other neat sites for building these, please add them to the comments to help anyone else get some ideas.

Thanks,
Lew
any chance to see a video of it in operation? Neat build, have been drooling over the various sander projects that have been posted.
 

Attachments

#77 ·
In Operation And A Bit Of Reflecting

Had a bunch of requests (OK, only two) to see the sander in operation. Here is a very short video of how it works. The sound is natural- the sander and the dust collector in operation. A little over 1/64" of material was being removed.



For the astute observer, you will notice the addition of the broom like door sweeps to both sides of the dust hood. It seems to work but I'm not sure how much more effective it is.

Also, the addition of the wheels up/down mechanism was completely unnecessary. After using the sander for several hours, old observant me noticed the wheels were locked in the down position. The sander had not budged, even a little. Oh, Well.

There is one more modification to make. The bracket that adjusts the table to be parallel with the drum is adjusted by loosening the nuts and shifting the bracket. More precise movement could be obtained by using adjusting screws. The idea is in my head, now to just get it to materialize. More on this when it happens.

Thanks everyone for all of the kind words and positive comments. They are truly appreciated.

Lew
 
#78 ·
hey Lew, i always love to see the innovation of a person and especially a wood worker, making a machine that gets a job done that helps in your wood work is a great thing to me, saving money is a good thing always and especially in this economy, so two thumbs up and bravo for a job well done…grizz
 
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